IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


1980 


Teciinical  Notes  /  Notes  techniques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Physical 
features  of  this  copy  which  may  alter  any  of  the 
images  in  the  reproduction  are  checked  below. 


D 


n/ 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couvertures  de  couleur 


Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Certains 
ddfauts  susceptibles  de  nuire  d  la  quality  de  la 
reproduction  sont  not^s  ci-dessous. 


D 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 


r~T|       Coloured  plates/ 
l\r  I       Planches  en  couleur 


The 
posi 
of  tl 
film 


The 
con 

or  t 
app 

The 
film 
inst 


Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachetdes  ou  piqu6es 

Tight  binding  (may  cause  shadows  or 
distortion  along  interior  margin)/ 
Reliure  serr6  (peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou 
de  la  distortion  le  long  de  la  marge 
intdrieure) 


D 


n 


Show  through/ 
Transparence 


Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 


Mai 
in  o 
upp 
boti 
foll( 


y/ 


Additional  comments/ 
Commentaires  suppl6mentaires 


The  first  illustration  was  inverted  for  filming. 


Bibliographic  Notes  /  Notes  bibliographiques 


n 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 


Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


D 

n 


Pagination  incorrect/ 
Erreurs  de  pagination 


Pages  missing/ 

Das  pages  manquent 


Maps  missing/ 

Des  cartes  g^ographiques  manquent 


□ 


Plates  missing/ 

Des  planches  manquent 


Additional  comments/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires 


I 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche  shall 
contain  the  symbol  -^►(meaning  CONTINUED"), 
or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"),  whichever 
applies. 


Las  images  stuivanteb  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  I'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la  der- 
nidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le  cas: 
le  symbole  — »>  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le  symbole 
V  signifie  "FIN". 


The  original  copy  was  borrowed  from,  and 
filmed  with,  the  kind  consent  of  the  following 
institution: 

Library  of  the  Public 

Archives  of  Canada 

Maps  or  plates  too  large  to  be  entirely  included 
in  one  exposure  are  filmed  beginning  in  the 
upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to  right  and  top  to 
bottom,  as  many  frames  as  required.  The 
following  diagrams  illustrate  the  method; 


L'exemplaire  filmd  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de  I'dtablissement  prdteur 
suivant  : 

La  bibliothdque  des  Archives 

pubiiques  du  Canada 

Les  cartes  ou  les  planches  trop  grandes  pour  dtre 
reproduites  en  un  seul  cliche  sont  filmdes  d 
partir  de  Tangle  supdrieure  gauche,  de  gauche  d 
droite  et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaire.  Le  diagramme  suivant 
illustre  la  m^thode  : 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

FACADK    OF     XHTIR     (>I,AC 


(I  KIIM     I'lli'l ;\IIC    I-.     l(l>SKSSF(i.v    .1 


T^ 


F     Mi:iR     (VLACIKK,     ALASKA, 


l'M"In(,r\PH    1        l(jtsl-,M(.\     ,.|      tin       \i    Ili<.F<, 


rm 


tssBssm 


b 
3663T 

Copyright,  1890,  by   Seftima  M.  Com. is. 


fi 


4 


A  WOMAN'S  TRIP  TO 
ALASKA 


BEING  AN  ACCOUNT  OF 
A  VOYAGE  'llIROl'GH  THE 
INLAND  SEAS  OF  THE 
SITKAN    AKCHU'ELAGO     IN 

1890 


KY 


SEPTIMA    M.    COLL  IS 

(Mrs.  Genrkai.  C.  H.  T.  Collis) 

AUTHOR    OK    "a    woman's    WAR    RECORO." 


Illustrated  by  American   Bank   Note   Co.    New   York. 


NEW  YORK 

CASSELL  PUBIJSMING  COMPANY 

104  &  106  FoiRiH  Avenue 


p 

70$ 


IMIKFACK. 


In  tlui  following;  [>ages  1  luivt^  not  made  t*\  en  a  pre- 
tence of  writini;'  a  Hcientific  or  historical  work.     It  is 
not  of  special   interest  to  those  for  wlioni   1   write  to 
know  the  exact  pressure  to  the  square  inch  whicli  pro- 
pels the  seas  of  ice  as  the}'  furrow  their  Avay  from  the 
Arctic  regions  through   the  mountain  gorges  down  to 
the  softeninsi  influences  of  the  Japanese  stream,  nor  to 
trace  the  vicissitudes  of  Ahiska  fi'om  the  voyages  of 
Captain  Cook  down  to  the  purchase  by  Mr.  Sewar<l  in 
1867,  nor  vet  to  familiarize  themselves  with  the  eth- 
nohx'V  of  the  various  tribes  of  Indians  wdio   inhabit 
the  Aleutian   Islands.     All  this  has  been  better  done 
than  I  could  ever  hope  to  do  it.     My  sole  object  is  to 
put  on  ])aper,  foi*  the  benefit  of  others,  the  impressions 
made  U])on  me  l)y  the  voyage,  and  to  explain  Innv  this 
delightful  excursion  can  l)e  enjoyed  witlumt  the  slight- 
est fatigue  or  discomfort,  and  at  a  trifling  expense.      I 
want  them  to  know,  as  I  know,  that  the  shi[)  is  a  yacht, 
of  which  the  Captain  is  the  host,  the  passengers  his 
tniests,  and  the  object  of  the  cruise  the  pursuit  of 
pleasure;   and  if  I  succeed  in  inducing  my  country- 
women to  folloNV  my  example  and  postpone  Paris  and 
London,  Rome  and  Vienna,  the  Rhine  and  the  Alps,  to 
some  futui'e  day,  they  will  always  have  reason  to  be 
gratefnl  to  me,  and  I  shall  always  have  reason  to  be 
satisfied  with  my  eft'ort. 

Septima   M.   COLLIS. 


1 


S!5sr 


> 


iV(..  75  W'kst  71st  Stukkt, 

Nkw  Vokk,  Nov.  Ttli,  l.s'.Mi. 

^SFus.  Gknkual  Ooi.ms, 

Xcw  ^^>^k  City. 

Dear  ^Iadam  : 

It  Avas  ji  lijiiidsoiiu'  coinpHincnt  for  you  to 
suhinit  to  me  tlu;  proofs  of  yoiii-  fcrtli-coniiiig  l)ook 
''  A  A\^>mau's  ^i^rlp  t<>  AlaskM,"  tnt'iy  Avorcl  of  n\  liich  I 
liavo  read  a\  itli  profit  and  pl(^•lsl^v,  and  I  am  sure  it 
will  iiiHuenc't^  tliousands  of  tourists  to  visit  our  own 
su])lime  re<'ions  in  America  ]>et*ore  j^-oini;'  to  Europe. 

T  profess  to  Ik^  somewlint  familiar  Avitli  every  route 
of  tia\el  l)etween  Xew  York,  l*uget  Sound  and  British 
Colund)ia,  and  can  verify  your  faithful  description  as 
far  as  (.^ueen  Charlotte  Sound.  Tlience  to  Sitka,  Mmi- 
GLicier  and  Juneau,  your  tri[)  Avent  l)eyond  my  i)er- 
sonal  experience;  although  I  have  conversed  with  many 
officers  ^v]lo  have  Leen  thei'e  and  heyond,  all  of  ANhoin 
will  bear  testhnony  to  your  faithful  descriptions. 

In  readinir  your  text  I  ^vas  impressed,  by  your  ap- 
preciation  of  the  lieroic  jichievements  of  our  American 
pioneers  wdio  h<'i\e  brouglit  the  Pacific  States  Avithin 
easy  reach  of  the  most  delicate  and  refined  of  (Hu* 
Eastern  people;    that  you  describe  the  comfort   and 


R'jil  luxury  of  travel  in  tli.-jt  new  I'cirion  ;  tlie  oxcellcut 
hotels  }in<l  stcjiincrs  (*qu;il,  if  not  sii|nM'i<)r,  to  tliost^  of 
tlic  Atlantic  CoMst,  jiimI  tli(^  cliaritics  of  oiii-  wealthy  to 
save  what  is  possible  of  the  natixcs  of  our  newly 
a(r(|uire<l  teri'itoi'y,  especially  that  of  Mrs.  Klli<>tt  F. 
Shepard,  iiran<l-«lauiilitcr  of  Coniinoilore  N'anderhilt,  at 

Sitka. 

I  am  sure  this  book  will  have  a  larii;e  circulation,  tli.'it 
it  will  <h>  much  jj:oo(1,  aii<l  will  icmain  to  \'ou  and  >()in' 
ehildr<Mi    a     monument     more    lastini''  than   marble  oi' 


f>rouze. 


Atfectionatelv  \'oin'  fi'iend, 


WM.  T.  SIIKiniAX, 

(jeneial. 


Ci 


CONTKNTS. 


I'Af.K 


1-9 


CUAP'rKR  J. 

Iluw  to  Dress  uulI  Wluit  to  Take. — Checkiiij^'  l^'iggaRt-"- — '^'^'P  "^fi"  I'l'-' 
I'eiinsylvaiiia  Railroad. — A  Halt  and  a  Dimu-r  in  Cliicayo. — 
Minneapolis:  its  Hour-Mills,  ;iiid  its  lieaiitifnl  I'.iiildint^s  Lakes, 
and  Parks        ........••• 

ClIAPKR   II. 

West  from  Miinicapolis. — (loniOirts  of  llic  1  »iiiin,L;-('iir. —  lii^niaick. — 
Previous  Visit  in  18S3, — Omul,  Villanl,  jind  Evarls. — Sittiiis^r  I'.uH's 
llnpojudarily. — Tlie  Pad  Lands. — Marquis  (k-  Mori'sV  Unsuccessful 
Venture. — Tlie  Yellowstone  River. —  Indians,  Cowboys,  and  Ever- 
changing  Scenery. — '1  lie  ^\'onlItM■s  of  tlio  Yellowstone  Park. — A 
'rrii>  through  it  with  President  Arthur,  ( '.eneral  Sheridan,  andUlhers, 
All  Now  Deceased.  —  Helena,  Montana. — ASunday  Dinner  on  ]!oard 
the  Train. — \Vonderful  Trestles  and  I'.ngineering. — Clark's  Pork. — • 
Pake  Pend  d'Oreille. — The  Sportsman's  Paradise. — Spokane  Falls. 
— ••Miles  of  Uninteresting  Sage  Grass. — Moxie  I'arni. — An  Amusing 
N'isitor. — The  Cascade  Mountains. — Stampede  Tunnel. — The  J'uy- 
allup  Valley. — Arrival  at  Taconia    ....... 

CIIAI'IKR   DP 

Taconia  of  Seven  Years  Ago. — 'i'aconia  of  To-Day. — Its  I'rosperous 
population. — Culture  and  Ketlnement. — Lumber  Mills  and  Ship- 
l)ing. — Rapid  Building. — "  Tiie  Taconia"  Hotel. — Mount  Taconia,  34-44 

CHAPTER  IV. 

'I'lic  Steamship  Quan. — ller  Admiral)le  Appointments. — Obliging  Offi- 
cers and  Servants. — Captain  Camdl  ?  id  One  of  his  Jokes. — Seattle. 
— Its  Wonderful  (jrow  tli  since  the  Great  Eire. — An  Indian's  Floating 
Residence. — Puget  Sound. — Its  Beautiful  Islands. — Wonderful 
Young  Cities. — Aiiacortes  and  Fairhaven. — I'ort  Townsend. — Fresh 
Arrivals  from  San  Francisco 45-56 


10-33 


CONTHNTS. 


CnAl'I'I'.R  V. 

Arrival  ;U  Victoria,  Y>.  C— An  Kdtn  of  Mowers.— 'I  lie  Kni^rliMi  Mav- 
ll,,\vtr.— Kx(|uis:te  Landscape.— Suiierb  View  of  llie  I'.ay  and  Mum,- 
laiu  Ranges.— Grand  Sunset.— Civiliry  of  tlie  Kesidents.  — Dinner  ai 
tl)-,  "  Poodle  Doy." — A  Moonlight  'I'rauip  U>  tlie  Sliip     . 


(•iiAr'n;K  vi. 


-()() 


(iulf 


Up   Karly  and   on   Deck.— Wlio  Arc   the   Isarly    Kiser^?— 'Hie 

(leorgia  and  Johnstone  Straits.— Vancouver  and  San  Jr.an    Islands. 
— Snow-Clad  ^rountains, — >Torc  Ticturescpie  Islands.— Iheakfasl.— 
Whales,  Wuter-ialis,  Seals,  and  Porpoises.— A  Most  Knjoyahle  i  )ay. 
—Wonderfully  Transparent  Water '''7-75 


I 


7<)-SS 


CTTAPTER  VTI. 

Arrival  at  Fort  Wrangell.— Its  History.- Mcctin-  the  (iovernor  of 
V.nska.— 'llie  Tolcni  Poles.— Their  .Meaning,— Curious  Carvings 
by  Ihe  Natives.-- Tlu;  Wretched  Indian  Homes.  — I'overty,  Filth,  an<l 
Disease.— An  Indian  Woman's  Life  of  Toil  and  Shame.— Infanti- 
eidt;.— Polygamy.— Indian  Craves.— An  Amphibious  Hotel.— The 
Trip  from  Fort  Wrangell  to  Sitka.— The  Delta  of  the  Stickeen  River 
— Exriuisite  Scenery  and  1  .(.ng-Continued  Daylight.— Arrival  al 
Sitka 

CHAPTER  VIIT. 

Siika.— So  Muchlike  Napk-.— Mt.  Edgecombe.— The  Dilapidated  Store- 
Houses.— Baranoff  Castle:  its  History  and  Reminiscences.  — Lady 
Franklin  and  William  II.  Seward.— The  Ceremony  of  Handing 
<,ver  Alaska  by  Russia  to  tiie  United  States.- The  Journey^  of 
Civilization  Westward  annuid  the  Clobe.— Indians  and  their  Knick- 
Knacks.— Superslilion  against  I'holography.— Indian  A(h)rnrnents. 
—  The  Rancherie  and  its  Horrors.— Princess  Thorn.— The  Americo.u 
Shops.— The  Russo-Creek  Clmrcli.— Service  by  Archbishop  Ma- 
(liinir.— Wonderful  Interior  Decorations.— American  Ladies  at 
Sitka  and  How  They  Live.— Tlie  Ind.i.nn  River  Walk.— The  P.larnej 
Stone.— Presbyterian  Missions  and  Mrs.  l-^lliott  F.  .Sheiiard's 
Schools  and  Ilospit.als.— Wonderful  Work  of  the  Missionaries  and 
Progress  of  the  Pui-ils.— The  Narrow  (iulf  between  Parbarism  and^ 
Civilization     . •         *  ^-i-    4 


*   .%. 


C(i\'  r/^yrs. 


CllAI'll  K    IX. 

irpaiiurc  fiwin  Sitka.— Kvcryl.u.ly  llapp).  'I'li.-roualily  Salislie.l  witli 
iIk-  |)a\  \  I'xpericiKX'. — SuL^^estimis  fur  Iiii[)i<)vemt.-iit  i>f  ('onditinii 
..f  the  Sitkaii^.  -I'lie  'riiousaiul  Ulaiids  and  their  l-Olia^^e.  —  Mt. 
|-;di;ee..inlie  .Ni^ain.  — Tlie  Fairwealher  ^!nulltain-^  l.y  'l^uili^hl.  — .\ 
Ni'dit  (if  ('(iiitiiiuiiiis  1  )ay.  —  Amazing;  I'llTect  of  Siiiisel  ami  SiiiiriNe. 

ri,,j  Iniuii  of  the  Muniin;^  ]''inds  I'.verylxidy  on   1  )eek.  -iMelds  ol 

tee  and  leel>erL;s  in  ( dacier  ]!ay.— The  Captain's  .\n\iety  and  Skill. 
"Cnffee?"   "  No,  'i'hanks." — Deseriiitlon  of  Miiir  (  dacier       .      r. 


'43 


(:iia!''im:r  x. 

My  i'irsl  Si!j,lit  of  \1  uir  (  dacier. — The  Spell-l'.ound  ra^senL^ers. — \\hat  il 
I,ook>  like.  -It.  ( 'ol  '"-al  C.randeiirand  l",.\(|uisite  Coloriiii;.  —  Ih-eak- 
ini,^  olT  of  the  front  with  Loud  1  )el<)nati(nis.  —  Impressions  Made 
upon  Previous  Writers. — Ascent  to  the  Top  of  the  ( ilaeier. — Its 
Dangers  and  i'atigiies     ........  144- rS^ 

Cil.M'I'I'R    XT. 

Taking  it  e  .\l)oard.— 'Idii-  Lake  of  the  Cods  and  Scidniore  Island.— 
The  i'airwcalliers  by  Dayligl:!  :  k'airweatiier,  Crillon,  and  La 
I'eroiise.  -Divine  Service  on  the  Oiir,ii. — ^Mceting  tlie  Piii/d  and 
Handing  the  Sailors  their  .Mail.— Douglass  Island  and  its  Cold 
Mines.  —  History  of  the  Treailwell  Mine. — Cheap  and  Profitable 
Mining.  —  .\  <,)uarry  of  Cold. — Juneau. — Prettily  Located. — Its  His- 
tory.—Creat  Depot  for  furs. — Methods  of  the  Indian  Trader. — A 
■freasure  Lost  and  Regained. — The  Native  Dances  Civen  by  an  Alas- 
kan Showman. — Weird  ancl  rniiiue  Performance. — Remarkable  Cos- 
tume--of  the  Dancers. — 'fhe  Shaman  Dance    ....  159-174 


CIIAPfiiR    XII. 

Taku  Inlet. — Up  the  I,ynn  Canal  to  Chilcat,  above  the  sijlh  Degree  of 
Latii  ulc—  .\uk  and  P'agle  (dacier--.  —  The  Davidson  (dacier.  —  Kil- 
lisnoo  and  its  |-'isheries. — Wrangcll  Narrows  and  Clarence  Straits. 
— The  .\merican  l'',agle. — Whale  I'ooil. — 'fhe  ( )ulikon  or  Candle- 
fish. — Schools  of  Wiiales  in  Search  of  Lood.  —  Bute  Inlet.  —  fort 
Simpson,  1>.  t!. — .\  i'ost  of  llie  Hudson  P.ay  Company.  —  Methodist 
Church.  —  Ravages  of  La  Crippe.  —  Mourning  and  'fombstf)iies.— 
"Muck  a  muck."— 'fhe  Man-f"aters  and  I  )og-flalers. — Horrible  IJar- 
[)arisni  before  the  Arrival  of  .Mr.  William  Duncan  and  the  Mission- 
aries.— Death  in  a  Hut,  and  tiie  Anguisii  of  an  (Jld  Scpiaw      .  175-1S5 


CONTENTS. 


CllAl'IIK   XITl. 


i'Ac;i': 


Mclhilikatlah,  1'..  C  — An  Imlian  \  illa-e  villi  a  CockI  Covenmici.t.- 
TlieirWriUeu  C;)iistitutu)n.— 'I'luir  Industries  and  Minlianiral  IMu- 
oation.— Nanaim...— A  Game  of  liase-l'-all.— (  clcl.rated  Coal  Mines. 
—Recent  Sad  Calamity  in  One  of 'J'licni.— limit  Resort  for  Sporl.- 
,„en.— Splendid  Fishini;  and  Hunting.— Victoria  Attain,  and  llie 
•' I'oodle  Dog"  Once  More.— 'Squimault  and  the  Boating-Cronnds. — 

Klection-Day.— The  Australian  Rallot.— A  Cause  Cc'lchrr.—XvnsAX 
Once  More  at  Taconuu— <  )lf  for  the  Vosemite  .         •         ]Sr.-i<,4 


I! 


I  ^ 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


lU    the  .hni-ri,ii)i   H-i'iA'  .\'«/,-  («>i//><iny.  of  X.U'    i'ori. 


HAOK 


TiiK  Milk  Ol.uikr— Frontispiece. 

PoKiKAii    oi'    riiK  Ai  iHOR — (iuttekunst,  l-'iiiia. 

HOMK    ol-     Hon.    VV.     1).    WASUHURN,    MiNNKAFOLlS, 

Indian  ok  tiik  Plains     Photo,  by  Notman  &  Son, 

GkN'I.    (iRANl     Al     HlSMAKI   K, 

A  Krikk  Hai.t,  -  -  -  - 

HOMK   OF    TlIF,   Mar(jims    DK    MoKKS, 

Indians  and  Cownovs, 

Oi.i)   FAirini'i       Pliolc;.   l)y   llayncs, 

Vkij.owsionk   j   •  •  s.s— Photti.  by   Haynt-s, 

PrESIDKNT    ArTIII'R    and    t'oMl'ANIONS,       - 

Marknt  Trestlk— Photo,  by  Haynes, 

Nkar  Clark's  Fork     Photo,  by  Haynes, 

Si'OKANF,  Falls — Photo,  by  Haynes, 

"Ah,  There!"         -  -  -  -  - 

Cutting  Timber  in  Washincton— Photo,  by  J)av 

The  Wharves  at  Tacoma— Photo,  by   Davidson, 

Tacuma  -Photo,  by  Rutter, 

i-*AciFic  Avenue,  Tacoma — Photo,  hy  llaynes. 

Mount  Tacoma — Photo,  by  Rutter, 

PUVAI.LUI'    Hol'-PlCKERS, 

"  (iivE  Her  a  Coat  ok  Paini," 

Seatii.k — Photo.  i)y   Haynes, 

iiisHor  Vladimir,  -  -  -  - 

A   Hit  of  Scenery  from    tiik  1)e<  k, 

\'i(  ToRiA— Pliolo.  bv  Mavnard, 


i(lsf)n. 


7 

<J 
13 
14 

17 

18 

IQ 
20 
21 

24 

25 

27 

30 

32 

33 

35 

38 

42 

44 

4« 

50 

55 

56 

5<J 


I 


VlCTOKIA     Mosl'l  lAIII  V, 

Am,  Hands  on  1>k(  i.,  - 

SCKNKKV    IN     rilK    (ll'l.l     ••!     (i  Id  )k(  1 1  A  , 


70 


Johns  roNK  Siuaii's,  -  -  -  -  ■ 

l'"()i<r  VVrancki.i.,  ------ 

TOTKM     1*01. KS    \l     1m>KI      WkANCKI.I.        I'linlo.    I.\     l.llul,    - 

A    SiRKKT   IN    I'oKT  Wkancki.i     -I'IidIo.  l>y  'I'jiIh'I,    - 

'i'olKM     I'OI.KS    AT    I'oKT     WkxM.KI.I.    -I'lldlu     h\     TMhcl,     - 

Indian  ,S(,ir  wvs    \r   1''oki    \Vk  \ni,ki,i,, 

Indian  (Jkavk  at   I'our  \Vi<an<;ki.i.     finni  I'lmi...  1)\    hilici, 

'rilK    SlICKKKN     DkI.IA,    ---''' 
TlIK    KoD  \K     FlKNDS,  -  -  -  -  " 

SriKA    (IKOM     IHK   WHAKI'),  -  -  -  -  - 

Sitka  (kkom   tiik  Hav)  -I'lioio.  In    Tiiljcr, 

I'oKIKAIT    01      WlI.I.IAM     II.    Sk.WAKD,      -  -  -  " 

Lincoln   Sikkkt,   Sitka  -Pliolu.   hy   lalin , 
(ikori'  OK  Indians  a  i'  Sitka, 


I'liK  Uanciikrik  at  SriKA     I'lioto.  I)y   JmIii-i, 

(Jroci'  oi.   Indians  at  Sitka,         -  -  -  - 

I'lIK     R\N(:HKUIK    AT    SlTKA,  -  -  .  - 

I'klNl  I'.SS     TllOM,  -  -  -  -  - 

(iKoii-  III'  Indians  at  Siika,  -  -  -  - 

Intkrior  ot    Indian's   Hoi  sk  at  Si  tka  — I'iioto,  hy  I'.n 

(JrKKK    (  'ulRfll    AT    StTK  \.  - 

Intkrior  ok  (Jrkkk  ("hi  r(  11— I'lioio.  by  Alhciistoiu-, 

I'liK  Indian   Rivkr  at  Si  tka -IMioio.  l)v  WiiiiiT,     - 

(Jroit  ok  Indian   Urn's  -I'liolo.  l)y  VViiilir, 

Mrs.  Siiki'ARd's  ■rRAiNiN(;   S(  iiooi.,     - 

TiiK   Mission  Ciiii.drkn,     -  -  -  - 

'I'llT.    Ml  ST.IM     A  T    SlTK  \, 

Mission  (  Til  id  rkn  AND   1<\ND, 


tlid'. 


75 
7<> 
77 
7« 
7<) 
SI 

H3 


HS 

'J' 
'»( 

'J  7 

*)0 

100 

101 
102 
103 
104 
105 

!()(. 
107 
I  10 

I  '3 
I  "7 

I  ds 

120 

121 
124 
125 


()\     I)K<k;     I.KAMNC.    SlIKA,  ,  -  -  • 

A   N'Miiir  OK  CosriNi  Ai.  I)'\s,        .... 

|(   KI!KKi;S    AllKAl),  .  .  .  .. 

In  a  Ska  i»k  Ick,      -  -  • 

Immknsk  1'"i,()a  iim;   |i  k,  ....-- 

Ml    IK    (il.AClKU     AC    \     I  )ISI   VMK,, 

A     Hie    III'     rilK    Ml  IK    (;i.A(   IKK,  .  -  .  - 

'I'lIK    Cl.lMH,     ------- 

'I'lIK    'l"<M'    OK    Ml   IK.    (HA!   IKK   -IMlolo.    Ii\     I ';i  I  I  I  idlir,    - 
()\    Tnl,  -  -  -  ■  - 

(V\N()K  Rack  kv  Ai.askn   Immws,       .  -  - 

Ilnjsi'iM;   Ick  ox  Koakd,  -  -  - 

'I'liK  'I'ki-.a1)\vi:i.i,  (ioi.n   Minks,  .  .  .  . 

A    WlIol.K    Ql'ARKV    Oh    (iol.O,  .  -  -  - 

|t;NKAr — I'lioto.  In- 'I'aluT,         -  .  .  - 

Alaska  Cuiaos,       .--_-- 
Indian   Dancks,-  .  _  .  .  . 

Indian  Canok,         --.-•• 
Indian  with   Thlinkit   Hivnkii, 
I)A\ll>^oN   GkacIKK — Plioto.  by  Winter,      - 
Kii.i.lsNoo-    I'lioto.  by  Wiiiiir,  _  .  . 

Till.  Mr.  St.  Ki.ias   I<an(;k,  .  .  -  . 

A     I'lriTRK    OK    DkSI'AIK,  .  -  -  . 

Edicaikd  Ai-aska   Indians  ai    IIomi:, 

TilK  Bo.MiNC  Gkoi'NDs  ai    \'ii  loRiA    -I'liolo.  by  Mayiiiinl 

Mat  siio\vin(;  Rot  ri',  oi    iiik  Sikamkk  "  (ji  kkn," 


3tl   paye 


PA(.K 

12^) 

i2g 

T31 

132 

135 
143 
140 

154 

15'' 
157 

i5« 

lb2 
(63 

i^'5 
i6S 

172 
174 
•74 
177 

178 
iSo 
>«5 

DJI 

lovcr 


I 


%» 


^1 


''iZ 


{! 


I     \ 


IV  I)1:AR  a  mi:  LI  A: 

To  \  isit  Al.'iska  I  Tills,  as  v<»ii 
know,  had  Imtii  a  (Ircaiii  <»!'  iiiaiiv 
Ncais.  I  jiad  listciKMl  ciixioiislv  (o 
tliosc  who  had  Itccn  there;  I  had 
I'ead  e\-ei'\  tiling'  w  Ithin  reach  w  hich 
a<l  Iteeii  w  ritteii  about  it  ;  tli<'  more  I  heard 
tid  the  iiiuit'  I  I'ead,  the  more  I  hojx'd. 
most  unexpectedly,  just  ;is  I  had  comph'teil 
'ineiits  to  spend  my  siimmei'  as  usual  at  Sara- 
dcoiiKMvords came  fVom  your  fatlier  :  "  I  will 
liavt;  to  start  lor  Tacomaiu  a  few  days  ;  conu>  alonii',  and 
run  uj*  to  Alaska."  1  don't  think  I  slej)t  any  more 
(piietly  or  soundly  that  niglit  than  did  your  little  one 
when  lie  hung  u[)  his  stocking  on  (-hi'istmas  eve.  ( )h, 
no  I  Womanlike,  I  \vas  mentally  })acking  my  trunk 
for  the  next  few  hours  w'itli  the  many  things  which 
I  felt  sure  would  he  indis[)ensal)le  to  my  cond'oi't,  and 


Fni«>>',Tfi-'i«i.nr 


• 


. 


i; 


I 


iH' 


h. 


2  A    WOMAN'S    IKir   /(>  ALASKA. 

Ii}i\'iiii4'  tilled  one  ill  (In;  usual  style  t«»  siidi  mii  <'\t(;iil 
thai  the  lioi'i'i'l  lliiiiLi'  wouldn't,  sliiit,  I  Ih^jjjui  t<»  ask 
Mjyscir  liMW  little  Would  }»(■  needed  l>y  \<)ur  i'at!j(;i',  juid 
vvliellier  lie  coidd  n't    llml  room  foi- a  dress  or  two  in  Ills. 

I  am  not,  Ljoini!'  to  tell  \<»n  w  hat  a  Munder  I  made 
when  I  ically  did  lay  out,  my  sloi-es  for  the  eam)»aiL:ii, 
hut  1  am  i^dini:;  to  do  my  hest  to  prexcnt,  you  follow  in<i' 
so  had  an  example,  iri<-an  indu<'e  yoii  t<»  make  tin*  tri[). 

I)ress  yoiirscdr  at,  the  start  in  a  sensihje,  ine\|»eiisive 
<-|otli  tiavelliiiL'  suit,  of  <»i'dinai\  warmth;  lei  it  lit, 
eomfoi'tuhly  and  not  fashionahh,  (\<»u  know  what  I 
mean).  In  addition,  cari'y  one,  and  <»nly  (»ne,  eostuiiK! 
wdii<'h  will  >er\<'  for  cliureh,  dinner,  t  h"at  i-e,  oi' <»eeasion 
of  ('(ii'euiony,  for  I  assin'(;  you  there  are  t\v<»  or  three 
[)la('es  ('II  roiilc  whei-(;  tlu'  I'elinements  and  consent  ioii- 
;dities  of  life  are  stiietly  (►l)s<M*ve(|,  and  as  you  are  a  fail' 
sjuiciinen  of  youi'  sex,  you  will  want  to  look  ii|»  to  tin; 
sl,an(h'ird  ;  otin-rw  ise  you  will  le<*l  ill  at  ease.  ( )f  eoiji'se 
you  will  lak<'  a  pi-oper  supply  of  wai-ni  under-^ai'ments, 
and  then  he  sui'e  to  add,  if  they  ai'e  not  already  in 
youi'  poiimanteau,  the  follow  iul:;  ind!^peM>^a,l»les ;  A 
lone'  furdined  (douk  and  an  ulstei-  (not,  a  heavy 
one),  which  ca,n  he  put  on  in  a  hui'i-y  and  nia<l(!  to 
(M)untei'feit,  an  entii'e  c<)stunM!;  otherwise  you  will  he 
v<!i'y  .apt,  to  miss  e,X(piisit,e,  hits  of  tin^  e\  (*r-(dian!j;ing 
S(;en<*ry,  hecause  you  "ai'<^  ju.st,  lyiiiii;  <iown  foi'  .a  nap 
Jind  ,'ire  I'eally  not  lit,  t,o  Ix^  se«'n  ''  wdieii  some  kind 
friend  calls  \<>u  to  lun  across  to  tln^  staihoai'd  si(h'  to  see 
.'I  ihousund  feel  of  cas(\*id(;,  \isi))le  only  foi'  a  few  min- 
utes, us  \\\Kt   hoat  s[)e(Mls  j)ast  it.      A  warm   mull":  you 


f 


m 


I'KI.IWK.i     /(J.\S  h(H<   Dl.rM-rn  Kli.  3 

will  IiikI   l«»is  .if   MiiiiVs  <.ii   llic  sliij),  no  doiild,  l»ijt  llu*y 
.(11  k(T|.  tlicii-  IimimIs  in  llicir  ti"oiis<Ts'  jKX'Ucts,  and  \<hi 
will  xdriflinK^  w  i>li    \<»ii    1im<I    imckcts,  t(»(t,  iiiih-ss  \  oii 
wi'a|»  \<»iir  littl"*  liii'jvis  as   I    ,su<j-'j<-'sl.      I   w<»iil'l  stwcrni 
tiuM's  lia\('  'ji\('ii  half  llir  iiMincy  your  fnllicr  Ii;i<l  in  his 
|,iiisr   if    I    h.-nl    not    h'fl   my  lit  t  Ic  s«'al-skin  inniT   in  tin- 
<'ani|ih<»i' closrt    ;tt    home      A    |)aii-   of    I)I'o;mI-s(»1('(1,  low 
heeled  slioes  lh;it    !ia\e    heeti    alivady   woi'n,   with  a   few 
nails  in  >ole  and  lied  pr-ot  i  iidin^-  just  enoii'^li  to  impi-ess 
thesnioolh  sui'hice   of   the   lilaeial  ice.       A    liLihl-w  ei-jhl 
niaekinlosli,  with  hood     A   |»air  of  sinoke(|  glasses.     A 
nail-  of  |)ow<*rfnl  ll«*ld-i:lasses.      Do  all  this  and  y<»ii  nre 
fiilK   e(|ni)>|ted    fof   ihe    joiiriK'y.      Any  ihiiiLi'  else  yoii 
take  is  sini|»lv  liiijxdlm.ciiln.      As  my   joiiiney  from  I  he 
At,la,nli<-  to  the  l^aeilic  was  so  t  horoiiLihly  enjoyal)h' .-ind 
rest  fid  llint    1   w:is  really  loth  !<»  lea\e,  the  train  wIk-ii   I 
reache*!   'racoina,    I    <-aiinol    Uet-tcr   iiiii<le   y«»ii    than    l»y 
tellinii'   the   story    of   my    own    joiii'iiey. 

Ilaxiirj'  |)i'ociii'<'d  oiii-  ti(d':<^ts  o\er  the  I'ennsy Ivania 
Uaili'<»ad  to  ('hi(•a^•o,  an<I  theiKM-  o\ei-  iju^  Noi'thern 
I'aeilie  to  TaefHiia,  we  next.  seciire(|  a  <li'awinL;-i'oom  on 
th(;  I'll II man  car  to  (Jhieai^o,  and  tele;jra|>hed  to  that. 
(•il\  t<t  seciM'e  one  to  M  inn(%aj)olis  (where  W'e  inten<le<l 
to  r<Miia;!i  o\ei- one  day  j.  \\  v,  next,  had  (tiir  t,wo  trunks 
taken  from  oin-  li(»iise  at,  l^iii-lity-sixtli  Street  .*(iid  l*'ifth 
A\('niie  t  li(t  day  hefoi'ci  w'<^  starte<l  and  checdvcd  ihroii^h 
to  Minnea|)olis  })y  the  l*ennsyl\  ania  IJaili'oad  (y(»nrj)aiiy 
for  lift','  cents  ea(di  ;  which,  I  tiiink,  was  tlu!  i^i'eatest 
amount  of  conif(»it  and  relief  fi-oni  anxiety  that  I  evei' 
|)in'c]iase(|    for   a   »h»llar    in    my   life,  ('Specially  when    I 


1 


I. , 


m 


n 


\< 


.! 


! 

I        ] 


4  ./  ir().u.i  v'\  I  Kir  ■/()  .  J /..ISA'.  J. 

r<»iiii(|  thrill  sufcly  ;i\\  Mil  iiiLi;  <'iii'  ••njnin^'  in  llial  <'it.y, 
I'cjkK  I<»  l»f  clicclo'i  I  llifoii'^li  to  'I'm<*<(Iii;i  mI  im»  ad- 
<liti()ii,*il  r<)>t.  (Ill  fact  I  >iil).s(MjiH'iii  1\  IcaiiM'd  tlial 
tllcVcnllld    Iia\c    IxM'li    r||('ck('(I    t  ll  f<  ill'j  li    1  Im'    \\1i<  »!•'  <  I  is- 

t.'uicc  I'lvtiii  iii\  rcsidriicf  ti.  I'liLict  SoiiikI  Inf  liall"  a 
dollac  <'acli,    if    I    had    ■><)   d<'-^ir<Ml. ) 

Al  '2  I'.M..  May  1."..  I -SIM),  I  tiiid  iiiyscir  in  th<'  tiaiii 
at  Jriscy  ('ity.  wcstwni'd  l»<.iiiid  for  (»iir  destination  — 
Alaska.  At  l*hih'iih'l|»hia  \\*'  wait  fn,  c  niiiiiitrs,  w  hci-c 
\  ou  meet  iin'  for  <joodd»\('  and  0///1  '"''//'','/',  '"  ^'"'^ 
iiothinL!'  a,l)oiit  a  delicious  box  (»!'  l)oiid)oiis,  and  then  I 
set  I  h-  down  t<»  niak<'  myself  ••onifoi-iaMe  I'of  tln'lirsl 
day's  joiii*n<!y.  We  lia\'e  a  (diariiiiiiLi'  little  eoiii|».'n"t- 
iiient,oii('  of  those  I'lillniaii  m nil inn-'nii><iri'<)\  \\lii(di 
Ainei'icHii  ini;-eniiit\'  aii<l  <jri(»d  laste  lia\  <•  eout  fix  ed  to 
make  a  lonj^  joui'iie\'  a  lio|»e  instead  (d'  a.  feat";  a  pai- 
lof  and  dfessiiiii-i'oom,  w  hei'e  wc  loiin^u*  jM'a<*(d'nlly  and 
eiijoyahly  with  our  hooks  and  <»iif  newspapei's.  I  am, 
of  eoui'se,  imiMcnsely  ahsofhed  in  reading'  U|>  the  latest 
aut  hoi'it ies  oil  Alaska,  ni\'  land  of  Ncai's  (tf  jifoiiiisc  and 
hope,  and,  now  that  my  dream  is  heiii^-  feali/e«|,  I  |ii-o- 
(•ee(|  to  d<'|\('  into  the  most  feeeiit,  lit  efat  Ul'«^  U|)<»li  the 
sul)jee|.  'Idioii^h  flafkiiess  came  niijcli  (|ui(d<er  tli.-iii  it 
was  welcome,  still  we  had  an  o]»)>oi't  unity  hy  daylii^ht 
of  admifiin^  t  he  Ix'autiful  \alleysand  hill-sides  of  Lan- 
caster  County,  IN'iiiisylvaMia,  all  dfessed  in  tlmif  sprin*^ 
attii'e,  and  althoiiLih  we  lost  a  view  of  poor  .lohnstowti 
and  tlie  "  I  lorseslioe  "  on  th<*  Alle^hanies,  yet  next  day 
utitil  flv(i  o\'lo(d\,  when  w<' reaehtMl  ('hi<;aii'o,  ther<'  was  a 
coiistaiit  vari(^t\  of  Interest  inii;l.'indscap(;,  wliicdi  was  most 


I 


I 


IIIICACO. 


orij<»yul)l<',  tlinii-li  iIh'Iv  was  littNt  <.f  it,  wIi'k-Ii  linocnMl  in 
iiiv  iiHMinu-y  ill  lli<*  MiiLnist,  pn'sciicc  of  natiiiv's  wniidiM's 
ill  Al.'iskii.     A  Hv<--li<>iifMM)i'('ul<  at.  Cliica^in  alToidcd  ii> 
an  opportunity  to  i'lvslicii  ii|>  and  \*k\  a  ^cod  (rmiicr  at 
t,ln!  Iti('li<'ii<'ii,  a   capital    Iiotcl,    nicely   situate   on    Lake 
Miclii<j:an,   where,  (jiiriiin'    my    meal,    a    couple  of    my 
„(nirii(ii.v-ii('}i<x  c(»untrym(Mi,    \\li<'   in    Imil^IhikI    \v(.iiM 
he  called    "cads/'   unintentionally  alVorde*!  me  a.  urea t 
deal   of   full.       One   of    tlieiii   wli<>    Wore   a   dress-suit,  a 
diamond   sliii't-stiid,  and   a  watcli-cjiain  of  most  attract- 
ive   propoi'tioiis,  insisted  that    he  mu>i    liave   \i  t/artym 
who   spoke    French,    and    this    article     heiiiir    supplied, 
h(^  commenced    <li>cussinLi'   iIk-  mnin  in    the  \  ci-y  worst 
French    1    e\ cr    heard,  and    in    >o    h*  id    a   \oice  that  h(^ 
impresse(i  those  wli<»  did   not    kii(»w   l»etler,  that    he  was 
some    remarkable    per>oiia'je  :     w  hen,    liowe\er,    1m»  se- 
leet('<l    the    vintaLi*'  ••ind   Idaiid    of   hi^    r(nit/(     nln    as   }i«» 
(;alled  it,  1   am   afraid    my  outl)i'<%ak    of    merriment    was 
o])served  :   it    certainly  was   Ity  the  waiter,  who   felt  at 
once  relicNcd   of   the  hiiih  sti'ain  <»f  di'jnilied  i-eser\'e  to 
which    he   had     iiei-\c<|    himself,    and     fairly    LiutVawed. 
But  the  climax    came  when,  in  the  midst      f   flie  meal, 
another    waiter    eiitere(l     and     i^'raspe(|    our    <11sIIihjii(^ 
stran<i'er  l>y  the  hand,  with    a   *' Say,  when  did  you  i^'et 
])a,ck '•? "     from    which     I     presumed    that    our    Franco- 
maniac    had    just    returne(|    fi-oni   a    Fiiropeaii  "  towei'.'' 
T   reLrret  to  sa\'  that   fi'om  that   moment   t  he  dialoLi'Ue  of 
/<^.sw/^> //,,/' /'/////.s-  was  continued   in    lioine-spuii    I^Jii^lisli   of 
a  (piality  us  inferior  as   th<^    French,  but   the   criti(usm 
of  the  \  iaiids,  and  the  elevation  of  tlie  lioj'deaiix  to  the 


i 


i; 


I 


lii 


I  II 


r,  ./   JraJA/.V'S*  77\'//'  7V)  ALASKA. 

f'loctric,  II*/-}!!;  to  lest,  Its  coloi',  \v«'f'«'  tiiaiiit.'iln<Ml  fo  tin* 
<'ri<l  of  tlic  r<'asl  ;  \vX  I  think  my  lnoilcd  ('liickcn  ,'iimI 
MilwaiikiMi  IxMM'  (  viiita'/f  of  IS!M)j  wcic  fully  as  well 
a|))M'<M'iat<Ml.  'I'Im'  \s  Ih»I<!  thiiii^  l*i<»iiL;lit  vi\i<lly  to  my 
mind  Mrs.  William  l''lni'<'iic<^  in  oik*  of*  tliosM  iiiimital»l«' 
<'liai'acl<*i's  ill  \vlii<*li  sIm?  constaiitly  apoioi^izcis  r<»r  Iht 
iiial)ility  to  siijjprcss  tin*  imj»iils<^  to  ri'<Micliiry,  as.  Uw 
ilistaiHM',  "  \o\\ ,  IN)  (jcai',  .s\fs.s/Of'/'  v\i!:\\i,  lnTr  ;  ('Xciisc 
my  l''ri'iicli,  Imt,  you  know  I\«*  li\<'(|  so  Nui^- alji-oad/' 
I*«!ilia)>s  f  oii'^lit,  not,  to  vi'i'i'V  to  su<"li  Iril'.'s;  y<'t.  tli<*y 
iuc  iIm'  iiuMflciits  wliicli  will  !»('  met,  witli  .»ii  a  trip  of 
tliis  cliariK'tj'r,  and  s(;rv«^  lo  illustrate  tlic  dinVrcnt, 
[)lias<'s  of   Amcric.'ui    life. 

L(^aviii^' (/liicaL(o  at,  In  i'.m.,  May  lltli,  \\(*  an*iv(*d  in 
Miiiiicapolis  at;  four  next,  afternoon,  and  stopped  at,  tin* 
\V(^st  House,  a  really  silperl*  hotel,  lim'X'eelled  ;iiiy- 
where  I  |i;i\e  (*\ el'  IxM'll.  I  don't  know'  wliethc'r  to 
e<(miiieii<l  most,  the  niiiiaMe  ;iiid  j)ainstakin!^  host,  the 
excellent,  spacious,  ;ind  w ell-furnislH'(l  room^,  capital 
laundry,  or  the  admiraMe  arrani:;emenl  of  the  ro- 
tunda, with  its  heautifiil  galleries,  where  tin;  women 
walk  or  sit  affei*  dinner,  <^a/inii:  down  at  their  lie<c<^ 
lords  hclow,  swo|)pinL''  wheat,  and  stocks  and  yarns. 
'I'Ik;  W(talth  and  growth  of  this  inland  city  arc  due 
chielly  U)  \\u'.  est;aMishineiit,  and  maintenance  of  the 
immense,  Ihtiir  mills,  locate*!  on  the  hanks  oi'  the 
Mississippi  Itiver,  wliich  recei\'e  their  moti\'(*  [)ow<'r 
from  th(^  I^'alls  of  St.  Ant-hony,  ami  their  supply  of 
grain  from  the  f(;rtile  li(dds  of  sprinj^  wlieat  in  the 
Staten  of  iVfinnesota,   Wisconsin,  and    l)akotia.     There 


I 


ii 


fi 


MINNI.M'OI.IS. 


;il<'  I  W  (Mil  V-l  ll  lee  nf   I  lioi'   mills,  SCV<*nil  of   t  Ik'Iii    JMlill    of 

"•I'Hiiih*,  <»r  ,'i  «|n/,(ii  <»i-  riKMc  .stories  ill  jjciwlii^  jiiiil  «»r 
iiii)»osiii<^  Mirjilh'ci  iir.il  «|j'si;jii  ;  Jinviii'^  .'i  <';i|).'icity,  I  ;iiii 
tnM,  1<>  iiJ.'iijiir.Mcl  lire  I  lilrty-s«'\'('ii  t  liMiisaiw!  I>,'irr«*l>  of 
lloiir  ••;i(|i  A\i\ ^  uimI  acliially  j»rM(|iicin^-  aiiinially  Im-- 
t\v<M'ii  six  and  hcvjmi  inillioits  of  l>arr<il.s,  of  wlilcli  two 
iiilllioii.s  ai«!  Hliij»|M'(|  away  to  j»rovi<|('  tlx-  stall' of  WW. 
Ill  forci'.'n  laiiijs.  Visitors  ar<'  wrlcoiiM*  at  all  times,  ami 
are  trealetl  willi  tin-  utmost,  eoiirtesy  l>\  jtroprietors 
and    eni|»lo\es.      I    r«'eo<_'-|ii/ed   my    fa\orite    hraiid,  and 

follout'd  tin* 

JMOCCSSCS    of 

its  maiiiij'ac- 
t  lire  w  Itli  ex- 
treme Inter 
(*st,,  IVom  I  lie 
<Mii|)t\iim'  of 
the  frel'jlit 
car    coiitain 


JIOMK    '»|-    UfjN.     \V.     )!.     WASI'IifHN,     M INNKATOUS. 


8 


.;  irc.u  i.vs  /AY/'  /('  .;/.j,sA.;. 


I 


fe 


Km 

.11 
1 


I ' 


i 


M 
rt'i 


h  '.  r< 


Injj^  t]n'  fi't^slily  1  Iu'csIkmI  wlic'it,  lli?'oiio;Ii  all  tlic  <l(it,'iils 
(»<"  L»riii(liiiL;',  cIcaMsiiiti',  and  sll'tiiii;',  iiiilil  il  finally 
I'caclHMJ  (lie  jiiiisliii  ^Kv^,  and  was  sewed  Uj»  an<l. 
si  an  !})('<!. 

Minn«!aj)<)lis  is  still  in  Imt  "  Iciuis,"  hut  as  hcanlirnl  as 
she  is  yoiithfid,  and,  I  am  told,  lias  (h^tiinninc*!  (<»  make 
licr  (JrJtnt  tliis  year  as  a  rival  !•»  lici'  cldc!!'  sister,  IIk^  cn- 
terpi'isinii;  St.  Paul.  \Vliil(!  here  wc  \\(*i'(!  tln^  ixii<*st  of 
oiir  friend,  Mr.  T.  L.,  who  ])laye(l  the  liosl,  <ii  rrai 
l>rin<(\,  placinL;'  us  in  his  j)ha(*ton,  Ixdiind  a  pair  of  \^^Yy 
rapid  jet  hlacks,  thus  ji;ivinL;-  us  an  oj>poi'tuiiity  of  see- 
in^•  in  a  few  hours  ^vhat  it  woul  1  ha\('  taken  us  Jays 
to  disc,o\('i'  lor  oui-selv<'s.  I  was  faii'ly  aniaze(I  ai  llie 
palatial  icsidences ;  with  1  he  <'.\»*eptio)i  of  perliaps  half 
a  dozen  houses,  New  V\)rk  has  nothing  (•oiii|)aral)](Mn 
th«'  \va}  of  hold  and  1ast<'ful  architeetui'(^,  eond)in(M] 
with  L»;i'eat  solidity  ;  tlu^  \ari(d}'  and  conihiuMtions  of 
colored  stone  ]»ai'ti('ulai'ly  struck  ine,  especially  a  rev 
luai'kahh^  hleiidin^'  of  <j;reen  aii<l  cream  colors  in  oii<^ 
house  y(^t  unlinished,  the  uid'oi'tunate  own<*r  havinu: 
(ronie  to  <i;rief  dui-ini^  its  construction.  Its  arcliit<H'ture 
was  of  th(^  hi<(hest  ai't,  and  I  ho|»e  \('t  to  se<^  it  in  its 
coinplete(l  nia^iiilicence.  I*ei'haps  the  ell'ect  of  these 
i;'i'an<l  edifices,  each  'oullt  upon  its  own  separate  acre 
with  its  cai'pet  of  lawn  and  flow  ('i'd)e<ls,  upon  an  eye 
accustomed  to  rows  of  hrick  and  hrowii  slone,  is 
e.\aggerat<Ml  as  to  the  heauty  of  desii^n  and  stiiiclurc^, 
iieverth(dess  the  Minneapolis  Ijomes  impi'esse(l  me  \y\\\\ 
tlieii'  sj)lendoi',  ;ind  I  caiuiot  lielp  f<Mdiii<j:  it  is  tJie  most 
chai'iuing  city  I  ha\'e  e\  ei-  \isited. 


M/.\\/:A /'()/. IS.  9 

Next  (|;i\  \\<'  made  iIm'  h»iii-  <»l'  I  lie  cliniii  of  lakes 
wliicli,  will)  llic  siiri'(»iiii<linL;'  IniMl,  (•••ustit  iilc  the  jm'(»- 
plc's  |iI('.'isiii'«;-Lfi'(»iiii(l,  <)!•  jMiMic  |»ark.  L.ikcs  Ilai'firl, 
and  ('allioiiii  arc  <'.\(|iiisi(('  sliccis  of  wahT  1m»1(|('I"('<I  1)\' 
wide  and  wcll-niadc  l»niilc\  ai'ds  and  l:'|('\<'s  of  ti'«'«'s:  in 
tact,  <»nl\  just  asiill'Kncnl  c()nt  rihul  i<»n  of  ;ii't  to  |>rc>ct\(' 
tlic  beautiful  iiifls  of  iial  ni<',  wliidi  is  a  "jrcat  conilort 
in  a  \\(»i'ld  s<»  i:i\('ii  to  strained  <'IVoi'ts  to  eomjiele  with 
t  lie  (  Veator;  \v\  where  t  li<' liaM(liei"aft  and  (ast<' of  man 
are  essential,  as  ii'  the  const  ruet  ion  of  th<'ir  niassi\<' 
|iul»lic  huildiuLi's,  the  |te(»|)le  of  Minneapolis  are  uiisui' 
passed.  'I'lie  cliui'chcs,  lihrai'ies,  l»aid<s,  cit  \'  Uuildiniis, 
«»nice  l)uildini:s,  and  new  spap<'i'  ollices  lia\e  a  most 
assui-cd  lire-pi'o(.f  and  aLi'<'-proof  «'IVecl.  The  IniildinL;' of 
(he  (iuaraiitee  ( 'ompany  is  wonderfid:  I  was  ania/e(| 
when  told  that  it  had  l»een  commenced  onl\  a  vcar  at^'o, 
yet  it  ha-  chwen  >tories,  and  is  const  i'U<-ted  upon  (he 
hiLdiest  principles  of  aj-chitcct  ui'e  as  to  lin'ht,  air 
and  strentilii  ;  tliei-e  seemed  (o  he 
no(lnn<:'  about  it  tliat  had  not  its 
nli.son    J'rhu.       'Idle    \  ie\\     of    the 

sui'i<«iiiidinL:"     coimtiy     from     tlui 
toj>  (»f  it   is  simply  superb,  reach- 
in '_:,•  to 

"  \V'li.t\- tint  falls  (,t   Miniicliaha 
flash  aixl  L;icaiii  anions  tin-  oak 

t  1C(,'S, 

I.auuli  and  leap  into  the  \allcv." 


w 


^ 


f 


ciiAi'Ti:!;  II. 


K 


I'  ■! 


■'^. 


T  li\f  ill  the  .'iricninoli,  M;iV  Kit  It, 
{^r~\  we  (ilKM-  |||i>!'c  lilKl  (»III'S('l\('.s  ill  ;i 
I*iilllii;iii  <lt;i\\  iiiL!-l'«><»iii,  .•iikI  ;is  w  «■ 
Iin\«'  ii<>\\  t<i  x'lllr  down  foi'  a 
1  lllcr  (lavs'  jn|||||c\  .  it  seems  t<>  l|s  t  liat 
the  a|»;irt  iiMMil  li;is  l»eeii  Jii;i(le  even 
!  I  lore  e(»>e\  t  li;ili  t  lie  one  \\  liidi  I  d'oll-jlit 
lis  IVoiii  New  ^'oik  ;  at  all  <'\  eiiK,  it  jijis 
('\('r\'  tliiiiL:'  tli.'il  the  most  I'a-t  i(li(»iis 
person  coiiM  w  isli  ror,aii<l  w  lien  I  coni- 
p;ir<Ml  it  with  the  chilly,  comfoit  less 
eoaclK'S  in  which  I  ll.'t\e  Iteeil  (loomed 
to  spend  lioiiis  in  Italy  and  I'^astei'ii 
Europe,  I  felt  that  those  who  L;|*linil  >!('  at  the  V.\{\(',  con- 
fr(-t('iups!\\\ii\  soiMctiiiics  hajtjM'ii  e\<'ii  in  the  wondcifiil 
Piillinaii  s\stem  aic  a  most  iiiu'casonal/lc  set,:  oiircom- 
nartmciit.  is  ji  ciitc!  litJh^  salon  1>\  day,  where  we  arc; 
lia,]»p\'  in  the  t/olcn  far  ii'nntr^  with  oiir  l>o(d<s,  or  in 
WriiiliL!,"  t(»  tlios(^  at  lioiin'.  \\'<'  lia\  e  e\  <*i'} cohn ciiieiice, 
a  cluHM-l'iil  and  oMi^iiii:,"  jtortcr,  and  when  the  white- 
jac.k(ite(l  waiter  ,'innoiiiices  "siipj»er  is  now  ready  in  th( 
diiiirii^-car,''   wc   simply   walk    ihroiiiih    the    \('slil>ule<l 


IIH:    COMIOKIS    Ol     I'K.WI-.l. 


II 


null, 

h  ill  <> 

.MS  w  <■ 

I'oi'    :i 

<  tliiit 

<'\  cii 

,  il  iiiis 
lidioiis 

I  cnlll- 

■|»rl  l<'ss 

eastern 

\\v,  coil- 
lidrl-fill 
iill'  (■(»|ii- 

\\<'     Ml'<* 

,s  <.'!'  ill 
(Mii<'nc(', 

;  wllit*'- 
ly  ill  th* 
;stil)iilt'<l 


|»asH}iji('-\\a\  1<»  tli<'  next  rai"  and  ai'«'  iiiditcly  usher*'*!  in 
.'I  t<'a  uliicli  \\(»id<l  lia\e  doiK!  cfcdii  to  any  liom**  in  tlic 
laM<l.  .lust  lliiid<  ^^{  a  l>i'()il<'d  salmon  .steak,  cxcellonl 
;ind  w  eII-co(»kef|  cliops,  delicious  \\  allies,  sti'aw  I  )ei'|'ie>, 
(■a|»il.'d  lea,  and  lots  of  <»l  liei-  L:;<»(»d  I  liiiius,  if  \  oil  |if(d'ei'!'e<l 
tlieni.  ;ill  i'oi'  sexcnl  \  llx  <•  cents;  add  to  tliis,  if  \(»u 
wish,  a  pint  of  /aid";in<|e|  (;i  ('aliforiii;i  claret  ),  and  one 
dfillar  |ta)s  the  hill.  1  lealK  l)ec<»nie  so  c<»ntent  and 
ivstfnl  tli;il  I  f<-el  I  '-oidd  lix'e  here  ;i  month.  Tei'liajis 
the  men  oil  I  he  ir.tiii  miss  their  (duhs  in  the  e\cniriLi', 
their  Itilliar'ds,  (»r  their  riiMx-r:  l)iit,  .-is  far  as  I  ;im  <'oii- 
(•eiiie(l,  I  .im  li;i|»jt\  that  there  nre  no  shops,  nodinnei' 
jiarties,  the.'itres,  or  l»;dU.  I  jixc  to  (•(»nfes><  that  I  do 
not   iiii-«^  them.         Think   of    it,  I  retire   \\\    nine  <»'cloek, 

;ind     sleep     pe;ieefllll\      until     ei'_iht.  I      ll,'l\e      Itijt      olie 

iirr'iin  p'tisi,,  one  niiiht  mare  :  will  I  <j:vi)\\  fat  on  this 
c.-ilni.  heart-full,  ;<iid  stomach-fiill  life^  ^'es,  I  h;!\<* 
;in<»tlier:  will  the  iil»i(jiiitoii>  teii-mont  lis-(dd  Imhv 
(there  Is  alw.'iNs  one  to  ea(di  car)  \'e!l  in    the    niuiit    l>e- 

t  WCell    the   iiitel'\;ils  (»f   j  »;ire'j'ol'ic  '. 

It  is  Satiiivjay  inorniiiLS  May  ITtli,  and  I  ha\e  slept 
delicioiis|\  :  if  tlie  l)al)\  crie(l  I  was  too  uiiconsei(»iis  to 
ol)ser\('  it,  l)iit  altoiit  foiii'  in  the  niorniiiL;'  I  was  awak- 
ened hy  .'I  e|ia!«U'c  ill  the  t  eliipei-at  lire  ;  it  had  become 
inten>el\  cold,  a;^!  j  made  u-ood  use  of  the  e.\tra 
hlaiiket.  Upon  arisiiiL!'  I  liml  we  are  out  on  tlie  tree- 
less prairi<',  c(»ate(|  with  a  li<_rht  fall  of  snow.  Foi'  I 
shoidd  think  two  hundi'ed  miles  we  IraAcI  on  in  a 
straiLdit  lin.' aciftss  t  his  vast  expanse  (d*  plain  with  no 
speck   of    foliaife    '.xceptihi^    her**   and  there  wh<;re   tlic 


I, 

i 


I  J 


IJ 


/  irc.i/.i.v'.s  I  Kir  /('  .//../.SAM. 


[ 


'   -v. 


1.1     ' 
I!     . 


li    \{ 


5i 


sell  Id'  i--  iii.-jkiii'j  ;i  rriiitl<'s>  clVoil  t<.  raise  a  few 
si  ri|tliiiL:s  :  ycl  I  am  t<»l<l  llial  in  ;i  iiioiitli  tlicsc 
I  li«nisaii<ls  (»r  aci'o  will  \n-  IV<'sli  and  liic'cii  with  I  lie 
\  niin'j' s|»rinL;"  wheal,  and   what   n<>w   is  ;in  iiniiitei'est  iii<j' 

l);ilTen  waste  will  then  l)e  a  \('l'ital»le  eol-illlenjti;!. 
W  IimI  <-;ire  I  if  the  e\('  (h)es  tire  of  the  ni<»ii<»l()ii\  i)\ 
the  plain,  tin-  hori/on,  and  the  »»ee;isi<)iial  f.-iiindinuse  ^ 
it  can  t  mil  In  the  little  di'essi)iLi-!<»(»ni  witli  its  e\('i\' 
(■«.n\  eiiieiice,  its  linelv  IteNclled  iiiirroi's,  tank  (if  iee- 
w.'iter.  niai'ltle  l»a>in  with  hot  ;ind  e«)ld  water,  ;i!i<l 
sil\e|-  s|)i<_['>t -,  little  shel\<'s  an(|  I  rays  in  caiNctl 
ni.'iho'jaiiy,  ad;.  |)tal)le  to  all  the  iii.'in\'  necessities  of  ;i 
wonian\s  toilet'  a  little  />l'/<ui,  w  lii<di  siir(d\'  no  ni<iii 
e\('r  desi'jiied,  unless  Iir  Was  a  scry,  xcry  niii(di  iii;ir- 
rled  in;iii.  1  ir-iik  I'a'-I  ;it  iiiiK  —  st  r.-iw  Kerries  .-ind  ereani, 
lii'ook  trout.  l»roile(l  spi'ini:'  <diicken,  llr-t-r;it<'  colVee. 
Think  of  ii.  .'nid  i<'in<'iiil»er  the  oM  (|;i\s,  w  hen  we  h.-id 
to  Ik*  elhowcd  ;iiid  trod  upon  1>\  iiide  men  in  the  rn>li 
to  L!et  to  the  eoiiiiter  of  the  \vaysi(h'  station  and  <d,ioke 
or  scald  oiirsel\«'s  in  th<'  ell'ort  t(»  hriiiii' on  mii  attack 
of  d\spe|)sia  hefoi-e  the  coiidiicloi-  slioidd  shoiit  ";M1 
aboard  I"  'I'liink  of  doiii<_;-  this  on  hot  (h-iys,  on  cold 
d.'i\  ■-,  on  rnlii  \'  d;i\'-;,  ami  on  slij,«|)<'r\'  d;i\  s,  and  t  hen  <-oni- 
pare  it  with  the  (h-cent,  lespectahle,  jiealthriil  llieth<»d 
of  to-d;i\  :  ;i  l;il)le  for  two,  tnke  your  own  time, 
ratioual  meal,  Miid  the  train  cai'iyiiej-  you  on  to  your 
(h'stiiiation  at  tjiirty  miles  an  Jioui';  isn't  it  '_:i'.'iiid  ^ 
Hi'cakfast  liiiishiMl,  \vc  liiid  ourselves  .t!  Bismarck  at 
10  A.M.,  whci-e  the  tr;iln  stops  loiiii;  ew-niLdi  to  pei'mll  ii< 
to  lake  a  stroll  up'-ii  the    platform    and    look  ;it  a  hii^^y 


a 


AV.SJ/. /A7  A'. 


'3 


■■5S 


'i<3 


town  l)!iili  upon  tlic  tr;i<l<'  iiici<l<'iit  to  \\\i'  ^n*;if  wlicjit 
count rv<'l  \\lii<"li  it  is  lint  (mmiIic  llcrc;  we  los<!  tlui 
Hociotv  <»r  two  sistrrs  of  cliMiity,  wlio  li;i\e  Ixh-ii 
[){iss(MiL((*rs  fr<tiii  Miimoapolis,  iMtinid  dii  ;in  (TI'.'UkI  of 
incfcy.  I  am  soi-i-\  (li('\  Icnvr  us,  I'oi-  I  feel  hcttrr 
ul\vji\s  i'o-  til**  inlluciM'*'  (»r  tli(;ii'  presence  ;  iniicli  as 
oui"  fa:',  lis  dillei-  I  lia\  <•  reason  to  lia\(;  an  iinnien.se 
I'e^ard,  re«-|)<'cl,  .•iii<i  admiration  [nv  these  dear  j^ood 
women,  \\li«»->e  lives  af<'  lull  of  saerilice,  iium«»lation  of 
sell",  and  iHiiiUof  lieart.  IVismarck  is  full  of  proud 
and  tender  m<'mories  [oy  me.  S<'ven  vcai's  a'/o  I  ]eane(] 
iiji  )n  tile  arm  of  our  Lji-eat  hero  ( ienerai  (ii'ant  th(*rf; 
li^  w  (^  walked  loiTct  lier  to  t  h(! 
cei'einoiiv  of  ded ieat  iiiL''  th(^ 
Stale  House,  foll(»\\ed  l>y  Jl 
column  of  di-'tintjuished  men, 
anioui!'  w  hom  wcie  M  i.  \'il- 
iard,  Ml'.  i'Aarls,  meml»ei-s  of 
t  lie  I  )ip|(.matic  (  'orp<,  and 
<»t  Ih'I's  who  were  (  n  r<nil(  to 
t  he  layiiiL;'  of  I  h<'  la^t  rail  to 
C()iiip|ele  the  uieat  lii'jliway 
l'r<.m  St.  Paul  to  the  i'acillc. 
'I'lieji,  I  rod(  o\('j-  tli<'  Itocky 
Mountains 'n  •^taLfes,  ate  terrihli;  meals  with  all  soi'ts  and 
c<>n<iit  ions  .  »f  men.  >lept  in  t  he  woods,  LT'it  wet  and  dust  v, 
frozen  and  l»roile.|,  aeciH-dluLf  to  the  altitude  to  whicli 
We  <*linil)ed,  ,>r  from  which  we  deseeiide(|.  and  was 
inor<'  rati'jued  al  I  he  expirat  inn  .»f  \n\  lour  days'  jolt 
than  1  would  l»e  in  a  rullinaii  eai-  in  a  month.      It  was 


^S 


I 

A. 


i4 


/    //vy.//. /.\"S    I  Kir  ■/(>  .  I /..ISA'.  I 


U  'V 


■|-  n 


oil  lliis  «>c<-asl()ii  ;il    liisiiiarck  lliat    1 


was   witiH'ss    \i>   an 


<;|»!,s(»(|(;    wliicli    is    worlli    ivroidin-j'.      Sillln'j;  liiill    aii<l 
Ills  cliicr.s,  l)iit   ]-('C('iilly  slaiix'd  with  tlic   |,1<,(,(|  (,{'  jM.or 


were  (flcji- 


(Jilstci- aii;l  III-  iiilrcj)i(|  hand  of  rolldwcr 
tatioiisly  and  indccortHisI y  )»ai'a<l<'d  upon  lli<-  j)latr«))-ni 
itViH'AA'Al  for  the  sj)('al«'rs,  and  SittiiiL!'  liull  coninicnccd 
a  liaraiiL'^iK'  in  liis  native  toiiL'iic,  wliidi  was  Ix-in-j'  in- 
l(.'i*I»j-('l('(|,  when  the  crowd  hch-w,  now  a^^cnihlinL'-  and 
rcaliziiiL;;  wJial.  was  lakin-j'  |.lac(',  ili'ovc  liim  wjiJi  \c|]s 
and  hisses  to  iIk-  ivar  and  (•;dlc(|  (iraiil  to  llic  front.  | 
\va^  in  entire  sympathy  with  the  <t«»w<|.  The  pictures 
of  the  handsome  ('lifter  with  hi-  i-ed  scarf,  a-^  he  (hashed 


ah)!!'.''     I*e!l!l^\h 


A 


\;i!iia    .\\enii(;   on    lii>  !iinawa\    hoi's*-  at 


thetii'and  !'e\icw    in     Wa-hiii'jton    in    1 8< 
iJie,  a!i(|  so  was  his  mnidei-cr.      '\\ 


».),  was 


l,.d' 


or(! 


ie|'<'   Was   hilt   one  >!<h; 


A    liKll.l-    ll\II,       {l\o,l,il<,l  hy  Atllllo,  .) 


to  siK'h  a,  <jiies- 
tion.         At    all 


(■\en 


t>  I 


can- 


not   woi-k    m\- 


se 


lip  to   an 
thv     h 


}' 


s\in|»atl!\  lor 
the  Imlian.  I 
lia\e  seen  the 
iioMe  ivd  man 
at  home,  with 
hi-  lilth  and 
hi>  \  ice,  his 
dishonesty,  his 
ciiiiiiiiiM',  and 
liisgc^iiej'al  iiii- 


KJi 


,.{1 

I 
•I 


i 


■X 


it 


MANDAN  ANn    I  III:   HAD  LAXDS. 


15 


r<'li;il»ilit  V,  .'iM<l   I  ••nil  ;minii;j  1  hose  u  lio  Ix'Tk-xc  Ik*  slmiild 

he  cot'ic*'*!  iiit<»  <^(M)(|  l>clia\  i<»r  ;iii<l  ii<»l  tolci'utiMl  .-is  Ik*  is. 

LejiviiiLi'  I)i^iii.'ii'<'l<  u<!  cioss  lli(t  iiiii<My  Missouri  on  ;i 

new  iiMii  hri(lL!(*,  and  iti  twenty  minutes  arc  at   iMandan, 

\\  liere   a  elia!l"e  nl'    |()c<  iinol  i  \  cs  ainl   eoliduetors   liecessi- 

tates  a  lialt  of  a  (juai'ter  of  an  liour,  L'i\  ini'-  ns  a  chance 
to  visit,  a  ciii'io^it\  shop  (if  stuile*!  hitds  and  heasts  at 
stulTe<!  j)i-i<-es,  l)iit  a^  I  lia\<;  no  ii-e  for  t  he^e  dust-  and 
motli-catclieivs  i.'!  in\  houseliold,  they  tenijtt  nie  not. 
Shortly  \\(*  reach  th<*  "  i)ad  lands/'  I  think  the  name 
helies  t.hi'm,  for  in  additi(»n  to  their  l)ein'_«  wejid,  |»ictui- 
(!S(|ne,  and  j)ii/yJinL!',  they  are  jjood  ^ii-aziiiL;'  lands,  as 
I  niN'-elf  ran  testif\,  if  <i«»o(|  fat  herds  of  cattle  alToi-d 
any  j»ro(»f.  The  to)»oL''raj)hy  is  of  the  most  marvellous 
formation,  and  the  coh.rs  are  e(jiially  wonderful  :  here 
you  sec  an  a>hy-iira\  hill  of  elephantine  form,  tliei'c  a 
red  (MMie  as  perfect,  as  thouLii)  just,  from  the  moulder's 
hands,  aizain  a  p\'raiiiid,  and  then  dozens  of  coim-s  and 
j)yramids,  and  tliis  continues  foi-  a  huisdred,  na\,  two 
liiUMli'ed  mihts.  Often  the<c  (|uai!!i  fornss  recall  to 
mind  scenes  in  ollK^r  lands:  once  fi-om  the  car-win<low 
I  I'ecoMiii/cd  on  this  arid  des(M"t;  the  loinl)  of  ('ecilia 
Metellaon  tlie  Ajipian  W  ay,  with  its  l)e(dii\e  foi-niation 
and  its  hattdeim^iits.  Now  and  then  you  reco'_jni/e 
what  you  l)elicv(i  t.o  he  an  extinct  \olcano  with  lumps 
of  scoj-ia  at  its  hase,  yet;  this  may  he  oid\  the  >la'_;'  <»r 
refuse  (»f  tint  hurnin^^  liirnite,  \\hi(di  is  fretpiently 
found  and  ^omc^times  mined  amonii  tliese  hills.  Wliat 
struck  ni(*  as  tint  most  remaj'kahhi  feature;  of  this  woii- 
diM'ful    and    enigmatic    foiinati(»n,  was   a   series   (»f    well 


V 


Ati^ 


--«-**>^ifc*«-,>,(t»> 


i 


if, 


,/      If/  I  l/.l  VS     //:■//■     /I  I    .1/  .l\A'.l. 


;!■,  '• 


I 


,1 


M' 


I  > 


I  111 


<|r|iii<'(|  li<iii/<»iil;il  liiM'-,  ;i  r<nil  i,\-  I  \\  M  ;i|»;irl,  wliidi 
iii\  nriMhl V  iii;n"k<'<l    lln'    hi'hukU   or    Itiiiir-,  \<'r\    imicli 

I'Cscmlliill'J'  ill''  lillf>  lil.-nlr  l||Hi||  I  lie  >  lin|(  •  <  .f  ;i  ri\cr  |)V 
I  In-    li-c  ;iImI    f-'lll  of   I  Ik-    ti(|»'.      .\n\\    I    ;ilii    ||<»|   ;i  ■_'('<  »|n'ji -I, 

imr  <jiri(M|  wiili  nnicli  ;iiih'(|ilii\  i.-m  m  iirdii-hiiic  loj-c, 
imr  Ii.'i\('  I  l«-;i<l  ;ili\  -••iciilisrs  i(|<';is  uf  w  Ii.mI  I  ;iiii 
(l<'^cl'il)ill'j',     ''III      In     III"'      it      looks     ;i^      if     ;il      soliic     \i'V\ 

rciiiolc  pcfioil  ilii->  <'iiiir<'  r<"ji<»ii  \\.'i>  tlic  hoiiom 
of  one  or  iii(»r<!  IVf^li-w  ;itcr  l;ik<'>  ;i-  l.-ir-jf  ;i^  I-.-iki's 
Miclii'jnii  .'iikI  I'j'ic,  or  ;i--  siii;ill  ;i"-  lli(»^<'  wliidi  cdm-v 
;icr<'S  of  \Vi-<'on>iii  ;iihI  M  ililM'->ol;i,  ;iimI  lli;il  l)\  some 
|tror('s-  of  <'\  .'ii »oi',it  ion,  or  1)\-  IcakuLic  <»i'  l.-iiluif  of 
siij»|il\,  llicy  iii';i<l'i;iil\  <lii«<l  ii|',  l<"i\  iii'j'  t)i<'->c  w.-ilci"- 
iii;irks  upon  the  Iiill-'<if|c-;  to  (li-noic  the  |M'iio<U  of 
I  r;in^it  ion.  At  .-ill  cxcnt-;  fo^sili/cil  li-,li  ;in<l  >licll>  ;ir<' 
fouinl  licr<'  in  ;il»iin<l;iiM-<',  ;in<l  it  i>  s.-iid  ih.-ii  ii  ri'jnt  ion 
will  ni;ik('  the  ^oil  |»ro(|i:ct  i\c  While  I  ;ini  I  liinkiiiL!' 
of  it,  Ii<»\\  ('\  cr,  ;iii(l  |M'rliM|is  \\a>tin'j'  my  t  inx- in  conject- 
ure,    we  stop  .'it    .Meijor.'i.        i  lere   i>   t  lie  w  reck   of  ;i,  once 

tlirivin-j'  pl;int  .-ind  settlenienl    roun<le(l   l»y   .M;ir<piis  de 

Mol'es,   the    llll^l);ill(|    of  one    of     .\e\v    ^'ork"■<   rich    helles, 

w  ho  con<-ei\  ed  1  he  i(|(';i  tli;it  he  could  eNlal»li-<li  ;ind  sik;- 
(M'ssfidly  carry  on  ;it  this  jdace  the  liu-ine-.s  of  I'aisju^ 
and  slaiiji'hterin'j'  cat  t  leand  -^endin'j'  t  he  meal  in  refri'jera- 
t(»r-cai"s  to  l']a-terii  markets.  lie  huilt  a  neat  liome, 
which  can  Ite  plainly  seen  from  the  train,  hut  al'tei'  a 
serious  altei'catiou  with  ^ome  of  the  cowImivs^  resuItinLf 
in  a  tragedy,  in  which  the  Manjuis  l»ore  himself  with 
consideralde  'jallant  r\'  an<I  nerxc.  he  ultimately  al»an- 
dolled  the,  scheme  and  left   the<-ountr\.       ^'et   I  am  told 


\l.\Kori\    />/.    J/(>U/:.S'    S(  IIIMI:. 


i; 


^1 


|,y  111..  |.(M,|,lr  wlm  .I1..11M  know  Im-I,  llinl  lil-  |»l;iii  \v;is 
;,ii  <..\.-.-ll.-iit  ..IH-,  ;iii<l  uill  >••'  lH-<-;iiTi<«l  Milt  -ii.-cr^^riilly, 
1,111  l;ick  of  l.ii>iii<-s^  cxiHTiriic.'  :iihI  t;i<-t  \\.-isi1m-  r<;il 
■;ii|...  (.r  \\\<  fniliiiv.  II.-  .-I;il)lisli.-.l  !l,.-  r.-u-l,  li..\v.-v.T, 
•  ,1  rMttl.'  would  r.Mltcii  Ikmv,  mikI  llint  iIm'V  ••••111.! 
,<|ily  1h-  |.iv|.;ii.'.!  r..r  -.Mrr  ^lii|nii<'iil  t..  iIm'  Alluiitic 
ilM.ar.j.  <.!■  •'l*io!i'  i;iii'-li  '"  l;il>l«',""  a^  lli<-  Mai'.|iiis 
<-j,iLM-;ui  iii:.li<-all>  sl\i<M|  it.  IL-  \v;i-^  a,  |  .i.. 11. •<•!•,  aii<l, 
like   many  <.tli<'i's,  |.('/-li;i|»s  a  liul(i   ali«-  "I  of   liis   tiuu!. 


. 
Ill 

If 


y 


SljC- 


i. 

f 


IIOMI.    '»!      IIIK    MARoriS    UK    MuKKS.       {h'ln/iik'i/  hy    A  III  It, if .) 


II 


m  i 


h 


■If 


%\ 


h 


IX 


/    irf>.l/.l.\  'S    /A7/'   /"  .l/..IS/\.l. 


Look  I  ML!'  .'I  I  III-  ll<»l|>('  ;i||i|  I  lie  <li-lri;il  -II  llnll  ndiliMS,  \<tl| 
(•JimiMl  liclp  cMU'jl;!!  l||;il  ili'j  I  lie  M  ;i|r|ii«  »||<'S>  1  li;it  llic 
s<'li('iiM'    w  MS   a    f;iiliii'<*.       No  wi'mIiIi   woiiM    comi  M-ii-;ih* 

for  SIK'll  ;i  life  lo  <.||r  .'icfll^l  nli|('(  |  |m  ||i<'  wIiII'I  of  l||f 
IIK'l  I'ojioli-  :    rr/(f    1(1   ih    so'i     ||    \\  ,'i>.  .'i    I  (Mil  I )  l< '   >;i<-|i  lice. 

Allot  her  iii'jiil  of  (•«»iiir(»rl;iM('  -.Iccii  ;iii<l  Siiii<lay, 
M.'iy  I M  li,  <la\\iis  iijiMii  ii>  jn-l  ,•{>  a  -prin-j'  (|;i\  oii-jlit 
to— siiii-liiii\ ,  |»l<'as;iiil  ly  w  arm,  ;iii(l  ;i  <'l(';ir  sky.  'I'liis 
IS  lo  l»('  ;i  (k'i\  of  l;iii(|-  ,'iii(|  \\  atd'-scajx',  ><»  w*-  t;il\<'  oiir 
<'aiii)>-s|fi(»N  aii<l  oiir  Korkak  lo  tlic  ic'ir  j»l;il  ffMiii  ;iimI 
r«*asl  our  Ix'ltcr  iialiiic  with  .1  rcpasi  <»!'  t  lie  siiMiinc 
aixl  iM'aiiliriil  a|<)n<»a<-li  totlic  foot-lillls  of  tli<-  K'ocky 
Moiinlaiiis.  Here  we  liaxf  (laslics  of  scenery  to  {\i'- 
li'jlil  iIk'  iiio-'t  exact  iiiL!'  arlisllc  taste-  iiioiiiit;iiii  .'ind 
favliie,  \a]lcy  and  sireaii.:  In  fact,  U\v  tin-  next  Iwcniy- 
loiir  lioiir>  tdic  track  follow-  tiic  inc;iii(|criii'j'  coinsc  of 
I  In-  ureal  ^'ell<)\\■-tolle  I{i\er,  with  it  s  rapid- and  waler- 
falls,  its    precipitoiis    hank-    and    r<Md<-l>(»iiiid    caii\oii-, 


its  Indians  and  its  cowhoys,-  -jiri  ('V('r-(diuii<_dnL(  vvhii'I 
of  1  taiiora Ilia,  til roiiLfh  which  \V(*  j)ass  so  J'apidly  that 
before   the  oft-repeated   <'cho  of  <»iir  shrill  whistle    has 


iL 


'I III.  vh.i.i <>\\'sii>.\r:  iWRK. 


'9 


\  < » 1 1 

llic 

III.- 

:lit 

This 

<»iir 

;iii<l 

'  I  i  n  1 1  ' 

<tck\ 

.   .I,"- 

aiid 

['III  \'- 

aJ 

>(*  of 
;ilcr- 

\  <»||S, 


■I 


<1I»'(1  ;i\\';i\'  ii)MHi  ;i  >«-cin'  of  <'ric|i;iiil  hhmiI,  ;iiimI  Imm'  sllll 
jiiMiv  iM'.-iiilIfiil  siiitmhimU  us,  cII'mcIii'.''  all  i<-cm||('c||mii 
of  ii>  |ii'»Mi('c('ss<»r,  till  iIk'  adiiiiriii'j'  <■)<*  a;i«l  liuiiLTy 
s(»iil  Im'<-oiii('  saliat<'(|  willi  a  kal«'i<lM  •(•<i|»i<'  ••(,ii  I  ii^i"  »ii  <>| 
tin-  siiMinn'.  Ask(<l  now  l«.  sclfci  -i»iim'  'jciii  l'<<r  ;iii 
artl«-l  riuiii  ;iiiiMii'j  it  ;ill,  I  -li<tii|i|  i'.'iil  :  I  rdiiM  not  |i;ir 
I  ici||;iii/<'  ;ili\  -|M-ci;il  locality.  If  I  lia<l  lak<'li  j»lioto- 
'jraplis  oijc  Niioii  loj (  <»r  1  lif  oi  Im'I'  cs  "TV  li\  <•  niiniitcs  of 
tlial  "Idi'jlil  I  III  <la\.  ainl  llidi  iiia<l<'  one  coini  >o«-it<' |  (ict- 
iijc  (»r  iIh'  whole,  il  ini'jlil  laiiilU  coMSi'V  an  i<l<'a  of 
iiatiir*'  <l<'<-k<'(|  willi  liri-  |.iii|i|('  lohi";  and 
>cf'|)t  ic  a-  il  liiiiiTiN  in  i!iy  iiM-nioiy  w  hil<' 
I  write. 

Ai  nine  in  llie  nioniiirj'  wei'eadi  liiNin-j,-- 
t<»n.  and    lieje  I  e\|»eri     ice  I  Im*  lir-t  and  only 
disaj»j»oinl  inejii    of    in\    tiijt.       Tlii-    i^  IIk- 
eiil  raiice  to  1  iie  ^'e|  jow'^l oiie   I'ai'k.      Scwcn 
years  a '_'■<,    |    |e|'i   ihe  train  at   llil^  |»oiiit  and 
went  olV  Oil  the  little  hfaiicli  load  toC'inna- 
l)ai',  and    thence  se\'en    oi'  eiiiht.    miles  in  a 
,sta'j(;  to   the    .Maiiinioth  ilot  S)triniis.      Oh, 
ye   licysei's    and    yoii    |(»\('Iy    canyon,    with 
}'oiif  iiiaiA  <'lioii-,  waterj'all,  nni-t    I   |)a>s  \()ii 
all  l)y  as  I   hniTy  on  to  Alaska  f      Alas,  the 
shi|)  will  he,  waiting'  i'oi- nie  al  TacfMiia,  and 
I    lia\e    jti'oiiiised    to    l»e    there. 
I>ear  ohi    N'ellovvstoiie   Park,  I     T 
see     plainh'      \oiir      snow-clad 
Jiioiiiitain^,    I    almost,    Iieai*   the 
roar  <d'     your     h..t     r..in:tains;  ..^,^^  ..uimui.." 


■1 


# 


"t 


1 1 


'  ! 


I 


YI-.l.I.U\VSli>NK    l-AI.I.S. 


•'  oi.n  lAi  I  III  I  i.r 


21 


/ 

i    ; 


f 


'•  OM  j'ail  lilHI'""  '  |tuiiri  n.il  ••niiiiii.'-  .•iiid  L'<»lii'-r  •**  ♦'"• 
t,itl<'<l  In  Ix-lhr  tivaliiK'iii  iliMii  am  •jixiii-j"  liiiii.  \<*t  I 
caiiiiol  laii\.  <ila«llv  uoiiid  I  walk  t  IhM"' to  fca>t  iipnii 
llio-.*'  I»ci'_'lit  <-«>|iii'-  iiii-<'<'ii  aii<l  iiiilM'ai'<l  <>\  "Ucw  li<'i'«'. 
Oh,  r<»r  MiM'  l<t(»k  finiii  I  Ik-  -1111111111  into  I  In-  i\i-^'\i  al)y>,s 
wIm'Ic  -oai-  tli<'  caLfh*,  ainl  l'>r 
an  li<»iii'  l)i--.if|f  I  li<  »-<•  fat  li<»iiilc-*s 
|jik«*s  nf  ••iiM-i.il'l  iiiii'i'oi-'  ;in<l 
lll'illiilil/    'jImiI"'-.        liiil     It     lllll-I 

lint    Ix'.      I    am    •'Xj.'loriii'j-    ix'W 

licM-.     /I  '/  /•'  loir,  lii\  nld  IVif-li'l 

— M  iM'.'ir  aii<l   \  el  -' >  fa)' :   1  f  my 

lil'f  i-<  -.|»;(|c(|  I  ||;i\  ••  not  -t't'll  \  <»l| 
I'oi- 1  lif  la-1  t  iiiM' :  and  \  <  \n<-  arc 
,-iicli  r-it'at  iii«'-  of  .•irniiii-! anc's 
and  coiiclit  ioii-  ihai  I  fct-l  lik<^ 
<'.\claimin'_''   "  Lascniti    01/ m  .>yy^- 

ntii:-.!!  ri,i  rlii    Sn\  I  hI fUh'.       Onl\' 

a  f<'\\  \('ai'-  aifo  I  lod^  witli 
I*r<'si<l<'nt      AitliMi-.     and     <ifn. 

(^I'al  Sli<*i'i(|an.  and  An>on  StaLf*'!',  and  rajttain  Clat'kf-', 
1  lii'oii'jii  the  laiK's  and  a>'fo>>-  tln^  il. •<'!•<  .,f  this  wondf^f 
hand.  All  '^•<tii<'  !  ^^•-,  t  hi>  lioiir  is  on<;  of  -ad  mcinoj-ics 
and  di^aj)j)oii;t  nicnt^  :  let  me  Lj;<*t  ha'ds  to  the  I  lain  and 
|ca\<'  \\\i'.  ]>ast  l»rhiii<l.  Kroiij  Li\iiiL!-ston  and  tlifoii'^li 
the  Hozcman  tunnel  we  an*i\'e  at  Ilelciiu.  the  most; 
t  hrivin'.^  and  jiojuiloiis  eit  y  of  Montana,  lot  ate(i  in  tin; 
(•eiitre  of  one  of  the  ridie-t  miniii!/  re'jions  in  tlni 
coiintiy.  I  s[)(Mit.  some  days  t.hei«;  uj)on  mv  j»revioii8 
visit,  and  sj»ent.  them  \  ery  iiiieonifortal>l\  ;    the   aeeom- 


!! 


k 


wmfmtmtmmmt'm'~ 


y^Mn^iiitiggiv^vmmr.-i^rj 


1> 


hi 

in 


r-^ 


li,    < 


f 


i  ! 


22 


y]    IVOMAN'S  J'R/P  TO  ALASKA. 


tnod.'itioiis  \v<'i'<^  not  lit,  lor  iiiuii  or*  hcust,  iiiiicli  less  for 
woiiiJiii.  All  1  liis,  lio\V(iV(ii",  h.'is  c.li.'iui^cd  siiicc^  tli(M'oiii- 
plc^tioii  of  tli(^  r.'iili'oad,  jiikI  it,  now  ho.'ists  of  .'in  adiiii- 
rji]>l(^  liotcl  (tlie  Hro.'idw.'itcrj  uiid  .-i  luxiii'ioiis  nisd  nuiiii- 
motli  hutliini^-houHci.  L(!.'iviiii^  II<d<^»i<'i  vvm?  ('iitci'  upon 
t.li.'it  \voiid(M'l'id  systciiii  of  I'jiilrojid  (MigliKM-i'liii^  w  lilcli,  I 
am  told,  is  almost  um'([iiall(Ml  ;  ]i(m-<^  wti  commences  tli<r 
I'cal  asc(;Ht  of  tli(i  Uockic^s,  circling  ai'oiind  the  sides  of 
tlic  snow-ca])[)cd  hills  an<l  lcaj)ing  from  ci'ag  to  crag, 
ov(M*  tr<;stl(i  ])ridii:('s  of  di/zv  h<riiihts  and  wonchu-ful 
consti'ucti<ni,  culminating  in  the  Mulhui  tunned,  \vlii(di 
mai'ks  th(^  summit,  and  eirierging  iij)on  a  heautifid  valley 
justat  suns(*t ;  abandoning  tlieexica  locomotive  and  I'at- 
tliMgalong  at  a  lively  j)ac(;  on  adovvn  grades  to  (iai-rison, 
wh(n'(;  ther(!  is  a  hrancli  I'oad  to  Deer  Lodg(^,  a  heauti- 
ful  little  town  with  a  nice,  clean,  well  kept  hotel, 
whi(di  gav(i  m(^  sh(dt(!r  and  rest  aft(M'  my  stag(^  I'ide 
ovei*  the  mountains  in  188.'),  and  thence  to  liutte  and 
Anaconda,  famous  foi-  their  ri<di  co[)[)(^r  and  silv(M' 
mines.  At  this  point  ((rarrison's),  therefore,  wc^  lost 
many  of  our'  <•( n nj >((,(/ no iti^  <le  >i<>!/(ii/<.,  who  were  destine<l 
for  some  of  these  places,  and  several  of  th(Mii  to  Salt 
Lake  City. 

'^ro-<lay,  in  the  dining-cai',  W(;  were;  ti'eate(l  to  a  <lin- 
ii(;r  which  W'Mild  h;iv(;  (hnu^  cre^iit  to  any  iii'st-class 
liotel  ill  AuKM'ica,  and  whieli  sur[)assed  a  gi'cat  many 
dinners  I  ha,v(^  eatc^n  in  such  so-callttd  hostelries.  I 
preserved  the  niana  and  hen^  it  is  in  full : 


.SJ'.S'/'AJA  (^h'  IKKICA  '//(i.W 


23 


DIWI'.K,  Si;\l)A\\  M.W   iH,  i8<j<). 

I'l ilat'c  a  la  <  II  (  y,  ( 'iMisnimiii'  Maiainiii, 

r  ilcl  III    I  PDiil    I'l  inccssu, 

I'lilalntrs,    I  )aii|)liiiic, 

<  luiiiiihcis,  kailislics,  <)livcN, 

IJiiilcil  (  )\    I'dii^ul-, 

(  iicnailins  nf  Xfal,  \ca|ii)lilainc, 

K ri)iiicskifs  iif  l.iilistor,  a  la  Kiissc, 

I'each  I'lillcis,  wine  saiii.e, 

Koast  liccl,  lirou  lied  |iolali)t*s, 

koasl  (  liickcii,  stiilfeil, 

C'lirarua  I'micli, 

Koast  I'.ii^lisli  Snipe, 

I'.dilcil   I'lilaliics,  Lima  lli-ans,  < 'aiilillDWcr, 

Maslii-il   i'litalncs,  St(n\c'ii  'I'linatDCs,  New  l!c-i-ts, 

I.cIUh.l:  Salad, 

I'ruil  I'lKJilini^,  Saiut-  I.ahaynn, 

l<liiil-ar!i  I'it-,  WliDitlchcrry   i'ic. 

Vanilla  Ice  (ream,  i'lnil,  Assoiled  < 'al<es 


iOlam  <  Ikc' 


i'liiil, 
!■  icncli  <  iilicc, 


\ul- 


If  |>assc-iiL;ers  ai(,-  nut  served  to  their  salisfacliDn,  the  laii  slnmld 
he  repnrted  to  the  dinint^-car  eon  liictor. 

All  meals  75  rents. 

1  assuiii  you  it  tasted  just  as  good  as  It  I'eads,  and  I  (en- 
joyed it  tlioi'<Migldy,  (q)i('iir('  as  I  am.  TIh;  coiiuti'y  wi; 
ar(^  now  passing  tlii'ougli — tliat  is,  ])i!t\V('('ii  liivingstoii 
aii<l  Missoula,  is  a  "diy  section.''  It  seldom  rains  }iei-e, 
and  tlioiiu:;li  llie  riversand  <'i'eeks  iMin  fnll,  I  liey  ai-e  cliiell y 
d('[)en(l<'iit  nj)on  tiie  nielting  snows  in  the  mountains 
foi'  tlieii' suj)j)ly  of  water,  'i'liis  gaAe  us  an  oppoi't nnity 
to  S(m;  tlie  iiK'tliod  of  ii'i'igation  adopte(l  ])\  tlie  fai'inerto 
watei'  liisei'ops  ;  it  consists,  as  fai'as  I  could  discoNcr,  in 
danuning  up  tlic  streams  and  earryingtlu!  water  from  the 
pools  tlius  foi'iiK'd  in  litth^  ditches  to  tlie  gi'ain  ti<*lds; 
hut  th<^  pools  ai'(^  only  tapped  at  inteiA'als  wlienevei-  {\\v. 
ground  needs  moisture,  and  I  n.'istohl  by  .'iii  iri'eNcrent 
|»assenger  thai  this  is  a  far  more  reliaMe  system  than 
that  prosided  hy  naturt^  in  the  shape  of  i-ain.  Un- 
fortunately tin*  run  west  from  Missoula  was  made  at 


I 


^ 


24 


/  iro.i/.i.v'.s  I  Kir  /<>  .i/..i.\/s 


iii^lil,  .•iikI  I  w  a^  <l('|tii\  <'(!  of  iIk'  sat  isl'act  i«»ii  of  (Mk-c 
iiii»rc  ciijfiNiii^'  a  si'jlit  <»!  I  Ik-  w  oinlci'liil  hollo  w  liicli 
ci'oss  lilt'  laxiiK's  ()\('i-  w  liidi  oiir  tiaiii  jtasscs  in  its 
(Icscciil  l<»  llic  wcslciii  side  of  llic  K<M'l<y  M( tijiitaiiis ; 
<tii«'  <»r  tlicm,  llic  Marciit  I  resile,  w  liidi  l»i'i(|'j'<'S  the 
iiioiiiilaiiis  aeinss  t  lie  (  Oriaea  <lelile,  heiii'j'  two  li  II  IK  I  led 
ail<l  t  Weill  \-si.\  feet   IiIliIi:    which    is  Im'sI   reali/e(|    l»\    |(»()k- 

ill^■  at.  the  li<tii-cs  ami  <»ccii|iaiils  <•!'  the  laiicli  iiiiJiic- 
<iiatel\  l»eiiealli  il.  who  |i|'esenl  \«T\  till\  s|tcciiiie!is  (»]" 
architect  iii'c  and  liiiiiiaiiitN.  I  am  Li'lad  thai  all  these 
sIriicMires  are  m»w  Liiilt  of  siihslaiil  iai  iron  :  h»i'  on  my 
))re\ioii^  \  i^il  I  he  cieakiiiLi'  •»!"  the  tinilx-r-  iindi-r  ihe 
weight  of  (Mil'  liea\  \    iiain  was  an\    tliiiiL;'  l»iit   pleasant. 


1 


.'I 


MAKKM     IKl.ili.l.,    2^0    1  i.1.1     1111. II. 


\S 


''I 


i 

4 


V. 

T1 


73 

T, 


t  n 


!i     I 


II 


tli; 


k 


'(, 


n-f>i/.i.\"s  I Nir  /(>  .U..ISK.I. 


I  R  > 


Vn 


On    iIk'   iiioniiii'j'  <»!'    M;i\     I'.mIi,  Indkiipj'  out     <•!'    tlic 

wilnlnW    ;il    iii\    licil-iilf.    I     I'mIIIkI    Iil\  sell*  cllM'iyili'j-    flnlil 

lli<'  locks  ••(•(•iK'iN  III"  ('l;irk^  I'urk,  ;iii(|  ;irh'r\\  ;ii-<l 
1  |-;i\('l'>ill'J    I  Ik-    ('(Imc    (.r    ;i     "hc'iljl  ifill   sIk'cI    i)\  w.'ilcr:    Sf» 

liiiM'yiii'j'  wiili  my  toilet,  I  \\;is  >«m»ii  oiit  <»ii  the  i-c.-if 
j>l;it  foiiii  ;il)^ni-lM'(|  ill  the  cli.-iiiii--  of  ;i  )  •.•iii<»iaiii;i  di- 
tii-<'I\    iiiiiik<-  llic  wiM  riiL;'_i<'<l    iiioiiiilnin  sccii<'i*\   nfllic 

(l;i\'  l)('rnf<'.  We  were  ll<»\\  oil  t  lie  U.-lliksof  liJikc  l*('ll(| 
<rO|('il|('.        W'licllicr    il     wct»;   its   ii;iiii<'    IVnlii    t  lie    I''f('licll 

iiii^'-i<>ii;iri<'-,  \\li'»  ritiiml   !li<-    jiidi.-iii--   iinlul^'iiiL:'   in    tlic 

li;i|-nilcsv    r;i--lli<tll    of    Wc.'il'ill'j'    <*;ini!j<jv,  (,!•    w  lid  licf    the 

liMli.ins  ii;i!n('<|  il  t  Ikmii-i'In  <'s  ;irtcf  ;(<-(|iiii  in'j'  ;i  >in;ilt('i'- 
iiiLi;<>r  l^'rciicli,  I  know  ndl,  l»iit  I  i|<»  know  i  li.il.  t  lioiiifli 
not  "  ni;iiviii»*'l  witli  fniit-^  of  'johl,''  il  w.'i>,  w  Ih'Ii  I 
saw  it,  n  r\\"AV  lake, '' 'jlassin-j'  softest  >ki<'s."'  ami  alto- 
L[<'t  licr  lo\  ('1\  ;  ami  it  must  Im-  \  cfv  l.'ii'je  too,  fof  \\v 
wefc  fiinniiiL:  al<»iiLi'-«i«l<' (,f  it  for  fully  two  hours.  It  is 
said  to  1)1'  tin-  paradi-e  of  tlie  ,>|»ort>inaii.  aUoimdiir,!'  in 
Ix-ar,  elk.  deer.  |ili<'a-aiit -.  wil<I  low  I,  and  ti'oiil,  and 
I  am  told  lliat  in  tlic  iii<»iillis  (»f  Sciitcniltcr  and 
()ctol)cr  iIm-  >^ca>oii  is  at  its  Itc-'t.  Sonic  of  lliis  l>i<'' 
Liaiiic,  of  course.  I  was  not  permitted  to  see,  l>iit  I 
call  \o!ic|i  for  the  I  rout,  which  I  lia\e  eaten,  and 
lor  the  thousands  of  wild  dii(d<s,  whi(di  I  liaNc  seen 
tliere.       'Idle    town    of     Hope,    where;    Ue    a'_;aill    set    olir 

\v<'it(dies  hack  one  hour  foi-  the  thiid  time  on  oiii-  trip, 
is  sai<l  to  l»c  the  hea<I-(piarters  lor  the  dexotees  of 
mm  aii<l  rod;  ii  possesses  a  Li(»od  hotel,  e\pei*ieneed 
'/iliih-s.  doii's,  and  all  the  other  mannish  thiiiiis  i'e«piir<'(l 
on  smdi  (tccasioiis. 


}    I 


(lir 
loiil 

!    s< » 

iIh- 

•licli 
the 
iIk' 

iicr- 

I'll    I 

.'ilto- 

r  \\<' 

II  is 

i'J!  ill 

ami 

.ind 

l»i'_;' 


S/'OA\}.\/:    /.l/./.S. 


:.7 


TIk'  iM'xt  |M)iiil  «»r  inh'i'csl  rc'idiid  i-  S|»<»ka!ii-  I'  ;ilU,  aii<l 
it  i-  iiulrcil  ;i  I  K.iiii  «»r  \  ci'v  •_:r<'al  iiil  cr'"^!.  We  lia\  <•  now 
left  .M<»iilaiia  and  ai<-  in  t  In-  \ 'Miii'j',  I  liri\  iii'j-  S^■ll(•  of 
Wasliiii-jlnn,  and  llii'-  town  jtaidon  iiic,  I  >liould  liaxc 
said  <'it\  will  '_''i\<'  tin-  l^astcrnci- an  idea  of  what  can 
Im'  accM)n|  lii-licfl  1)\  ;in  liidiisi  ri(  hi-  <-o|()ii\  of  A  nn-i-ic-m 
<'iti/('n-«  w  Ik'ic  naliir<-  |fnd<  tlicni  a  Ik'I]  iiii'_!'  hand. 
S<JV('ii  years  ivin^  at   tli<    icijiicst  of  Mcs.-^rs.  ('aiiiinii  and 


^>. 


h  I'll  RANK    lAI.I.S. 


I^r<»wiK  Iw't  I'-adiii'j'  ••ilizciiv  of  ilic  |ilac('.  [  st()j>jM'd 
<»\ci-  Ik'Cc  a  IVw  111. nr-  (  Inr  we  had  a  '-[M-cial  li-aiii  and 
loilci'cd  a-;  \' <•  liked)  Id  Imtk  a!  the  niaL!"nIlic<'iit  water- 
fall. I  d(»  not  think  ihen-  wrr<'  a  dozen  h  mso  llier<' 
at  that  time,  yet  lo-da\  it  hoasts  a  |><»j»iilat  ion  of  i.xcr 
twenty  thousand,  all  the  lesidt  <»1*  lit iliziii'j'  l  he  ticmeii- 
(loiis    \vater-|»ow('i'   of    the   "falls."      I    reiiienioei'   witii 


t 


I     ■ 


\ 


I   ■ 


f/ 


I 

I 


I     lil  I 


28 


/    //VAl/./.\\S    I'Kir   li>  ALASKA. 


'\        1 


Hi 


\i 


I    ! 


I'Clfl'cl,  llial  il))<Hi  Jiat  occ't'^KMi  t  lies*'  t\\<i  ;^('iil  |<Mri«Mi, 
tli(ii)  ill  n<M'(|  (»f  iiioFK'v,  tliMii'jli  now  milliuiiair'c^.  oJlVi-cd 
to  sell  tli<'ii- <)iic-liair  iiil<'j'<'>t  in  tlic  \\al<'i-an(|  lli<'siir- 
i'<)ini<lin<i:  laml  tn  \(»ur  fat  her  for  s.'liinoo,  l»iil  he  did  not: 
Hvail  liiinsclf  of  iIk-  opjioitnnil  \' ;  and  \  ;•!  live  ycafs 
Intel-  a  friend  of  mine  liaxc  more  than  this  ajnoiint  foi- 
leHH  til. ill  half  an  acre  of  ihi>  -anie  land,  :ind  s<»l«l  it  at 
an  ininMMise  prolit.  Last  year  it  uas  sii))j»ose(|  to  have 
.siilTei'ed  from  an  ext<Misi\e  (••Mdla'jrat  ion  which  >w<'])t 
away  the  hiisiiiess  jtait  of  tli(*  town,  l»iit  to-(h'i\,  as 
)naL(ni(icent  edljjces  of  sojirj  masonry  are  replaciii'j'  the 
shanties  of  the  past,  the  lire  i-  coiice(|c(i  t<»  liavc  Iteeii 
a   Messiii'j:'.      I   !»<*!i<'\e  the  (|;i\    is  wi'-.w  .-it    hand    when 

S[)okaiie.   will    l)e    a  second    .Millll<';i|»o|i>,    f(»I'   it    [lossesscs 

}>otli  the  water-).tower  and  the  crops  which  lia\e  ma(|(^ 
th(^  latter  LiJ'eat.  V  y  tot  his  point,  for  t  hree  w  hole  days 
tli<*  (;y«' has  seen  so  much  that  i>  new  aixl  sL-nt  liii;^',  that 
it:  l)e(•oIn(^s  wear\'  iust  wlu^ii  t  In;  scener\-  ''i-ows  Hat  ami 
iini!it(M'(?stini^ ;  in  fact  the  millions  of  acres  of  sa<^(^- 
i^rass  and  sand  thi-oiiLih  which  \\<*  now  pass  alTords  us 
just  the  I-est  we  iiee(|.  j  iie\cr  fully  reali/,e<l  until 
DOW  how  true  is  the  sayinw'  that  we  ni;iy  h;'\e  'Moo 
much  of  a  li'ood  thiuLf,"  and  if  I  took  a  iiap'  from 
S[>okaiie  l'\'ills  t<»  I*asco,  it  was  hecaiisc  I  neeiled  it 
and  was  not  missin;:'  any  thiiiLi',  Wdien  this  desert  is 
irrie;at(id  and  l>ec()m<'s  a  garden  of  orchai-<ls  an*!  Ilowcir- 
Leds,  as  is  proirnosticate<|  hy  those  who  ha\(*  tlie 
liardihood  and  self-denial  to  li\'e  there,  I  am  williuii' to 
Htay  a>vake  :  hut  really  I  saw  nothintr  worth  descrihinii; 
until   j)assinLr  thi-oii'jh   the  promising  towns   <»f   Xortli 


|L 


l.l/CS/XC  /.\  (//>/:. \7'S. 


2i) 


Yakim.'i  ;iimI  I']II<'iisl)iirir  w*-  <'<)iiniicnc<'(l  the  ax-cnt  of 
\\\v  ('a-c;i(|('  .Mountain^.  Ii  h  wortliy  nf  mciit ion,  liow- 
«'V<'i-,  tliat  iM-ar  ^^•^kilMa  is  a  \«'i-y  iloiifisliinij'  iniLfatccI 
raiicli.  <-all<*<|  ilic  .Muxii*  h'aciti,  iiiaiia'_''<M|  hy  Ml'.  Kd', 
wlildi  [troiliicc-  ;ir;ijM's  mimI  oiIk-i"  fruit  in  LT^'at-  ai)iiii- 
(l;in<'<'  an<l  of  ilic  lii'jlic^l  (|iialil  \ .  ai.ii  lia>  j»i<>\<'(|  so 
>iic('('^-.fnl  in  t  lie  cult  iii<;  of  t<»l»acf((  t  liat  a  nianiifactoi-\' 
li;i-  IxM-n  <'-tal»lisli('(I  iIu'I-*',  w  lii«'li  i-  1  nrfiiiiL'' out  \Nliat 
the  inf-n  r;ill  '- ;i  lii'jh  'jiadc  of  cii^ai'.  " 

.Mon<»tonoiis  ;i>  was  t  lii-^  (lay's  \  I'ij),  t  Ii(M'<'  wc'I'c  many  in- 
ciflcnt-  w  liicli  aniu~iii'jl\  hrokr  In  upon  it  \i\y  iiistaiic(f, 
at  su|>|M-r  \\<'  found  a  st  i'anii<'i*,  who  liad  conn*  altoaid  at 
I'a-^ro.  lookiu'j'  imli'jcnou^  tot  In-  soil.aij'o<»(|  (|<'al  of  w  liidi 
lie  ••aiiif'd  upon  lii>  |»<'r^<»n  :  he  was  «'\i(|('nt  l\  (la/,«'<|  l)\ 
t  lie  -ocict  \  in  wliirli  lie  fouii(l  li  i  ins«'l  f.  a  n<  1  did  his  Ik'sI 
to  adapt  hiiii-cif  to  th<'  manner^  and  <-ii«.i(tni^  of  his 
fellow -p;!>.-('nL!t'i-.  Px'inn'  hainh'd  a  na]»kin,  he  rar<*- 
fully  >ui'\<-\<'(|  1  he  company,  and  lindin-j'  tliat  s(,nM' of 
tlic  m<'n  ha<!  tu<d<<'(|  ihci?'  l»it-  of  naj»«'r\  in  under  thcii' 
cliin^  (a  \u!L;ai'  hahit.  i»y-t  h<'d>y  ),  lie  ])romj»tl\'  did  tlic 
same,  and  t  hen,  enlii'elx  unconscious  of  tlie  ohject  of 
so  ph-icin'j'  it,  l»iittone(|  his  coat  <»\-er  it,  nnn-h  to  ou!" 
(h'li'_rht  and  editicat ion.  Then  he  ate  litei-allv  of  evei'\' 
thitii^  on  the  l»ill  of  fai'e,  and  when  t  horoU'_ih!\'  'j-id'ifcMl 
stj'(^t(died  lilmself  out  and  pi<-ke(|  Ins  teeth  witli  a 
resoiindiiiLr  smack,  the  proud  j>ossessei'  <»f  a  h»rdl\  aj>- 
petite  and  a  di</estion  w]ii(di  wouhl  make  counth'ss 
thousands  haj>py.  And  just  liei'e  is  a  'j'ood  phice  to 
say  that  sometimes  comim:  hate  to  oiii-  meals  we  find 
tli(^  coloi'e<l    ]»orters  seated   at   tlie  tal)h's  lakiuL'"  t  hell's. 


,i:': 


% 


% 


,  'i\ 


-  nMy->im.'W*rrvwijg|»tf«w  mmMf^tk  ««s-«w   - 


r, 
I  ,f 


i 


m 

I 

If 


It    i 


R 


30 


/    //Vy.l/J.V'.S    /A7/'   /(>  .l/..l.\A.I. 


ikhi" 


It  H<Mtiiir'(l  ,str;inLr<^  al,  lirsl.  I<»  me,  l»iil  I  iniisl  (|.»  I  liciii 
tin;  just  ice  lo  say  I  lial  tlicy  l>('lia\c<|  in  llic  most 
<1(m;<)I'oiis  maiiiMT,  iicitlicr  caliiiL'-  willi  llicir  kiiiscs,  iioi- 
l>y  any  hi'cach  of  ct  iijiict  tc  oi  laM*-  inaiiiicr'-  doiiiLf'  lln' 
slii(lit(ist  iliiiiL;;  to  <-\cil('  cril  icism  :  *>\i  lln'  (-((iitrar^, 
they  coiiM  oiv<;  lessons  l<»  iiiaii\  of  tlic  iMtisteroilis 
<^i',]\\\{'Mi('.ii  (()  \v:ivtt\U'Vs  wlio  ((Mislaiil  ly  jostled  n<. 

Illiisti'atin'j^  lli«'  slfails  to   \vlii<'li   tlie  settlers  are   put 
upon    tliel)-  ari'ival   «»ul    lieie,    j    caniK*!     help    sj)eakini^ 

/  of  a  ijUeer  little 
tejnp«»r-aiy  struct  ure 
..  wlii'-li  I  saw  huilt 
wim^^f  over  ;i  j.ile  «.!'  lire- 
\Voo<l  aloMLiside  of 
a  t oo|-|i(»us(f 
on  I  lie  ijiil- 
road  at  I>ad- 
Ij'er.  !l  coll- 
sisted  of  t  \\('. 
Hllo\\-l)ill  of 
a  <-irciis  and 
sonic  pieces  of  old  inatiiiiL:;  propjicfl  ii|)  upon  hall* 
a  <loz<'ii  sticks,  and  perhaps  would  not  ha\<'  attractecl 
iiiy  att(Mition,  hut  i  ihoiiLzht  I  saw  il  iiio\'e.  'Vvwc. 
eiioui^h,  just  as  the  train  nio\ed  on,  a  hriL^ht  Taci* 
eiM<',ri^<'d  IVoni  Itciiealh  th<'  show-hill,  an<l,  with  a 
nierr\'  laiiLrh,  exclaimed  "Ah.  there  I''  \\'a\in<4  oiii- 
a<lieiis  t<»  the  (»cciipant  of  I  he  ini])i'ovise<l  l>e(|-tent. 
We  woiid(^red  li<»w  lont^  it  would  take  him,  in  a  country 
like  this  womN'rl'iil  State-  of  Washiiiiitoii,  to  pass  I  hi<»iiL?li 


""^""■^^...rr 


■> 


•I 


I  III:  (  .\S(  .\ni:  M(>r.\  I  .u\s. 


3' 


ill**  sl}iL''<*s   wlildi   slioiiM    Iti'iiiii;  him    t<»   \\u-nfiinn   cuin. 
(Ilt/nt/oli   of  u  (^)iHM'ii  AiiiH'  <'MllaLr<^  «'ili«l  a  |mi|cIi. 

L('jiviiiL(  lOllcrisldiiy  we  icallzc  llial.  we  ar«'  coiniiij^ 
1(»  \\\^^  (MmI  nf  (Hif  fca^t,  aixl  as  iii'jlit  closes  in  oil  us  we 
Imvj-Iii  Io  look  ii|)  >lia\vl-sl  raps  aiMl  'jrl|>-sacks,  as  we 
lia\('  1<»  tichark  early  <»ii  I  Ik*  morrow  ,  I'lifor't  iiiialiily 
I  Ik-  r.-i-cadc  .Moiiiitaiiis  were  cro-^sc*!  (Iiiriii'j'   I  lie  iilL'"lit, 

;ili<l      we     llli--(<l      I  lie     \\o!|(lerrill      IcmIs     of     eMj^^i  jieeri  ULf 

w  liirji    Iia\<-    m;i<l<'    ii    |to^--il»l<'    I'or   ;i    train    of   ears   to 

ascciHl    ;ill<l    <|("-ee|l<l    I  lie   St  Mill )  ie<  Ic   I'ass.     I    liaV'e  se(;|l    it 

liM\\  rs  cr,  oil  niiuilier  oc('a-i'»ii.     It   is  simply  inai'selloiis, 

;ili(|    willi    iIh-  <\c<plioli   III'    l>!t>   of    tll<'    I)eil\<'r  .'ill(|    Itio 

(iraiiilc  route  tlieif  i-  iio  ^pot  on  tin-  <-oiit iiifnt  w  li(;re 
t  lie  iii.-ijc^t  i<'  w  <»ik  of  t  lie  (  re.'iior  is  s((  skilfully  si;pj)|(v 
iiieiitcil  \)\  I  lie  iii'jeniiity  of  jiiMii.  I''(»i'  miles  aii<l  miles 
\<»ii  tia\<-l  hack  aii'l  foj-tli  on  tlic  sides  of  tlnvse  iiii- 
mcii^c  iiioiiiit;ii!i-i  to  accoiiiplisli  in  t  lie  cjkI  ;i  | »io'jr<""S  of 
onl\  ;i  mijcf.r  ^.»  in  ;i  st  r.'ii'jlil  Hiic,  l<»(»kin'j  <lo\\  n  from 
tliecnr  wiinlow  <»n  llic  ri'j'lit  at  tin-  tra<'k  yoii  li;i\e  jiisl 
passed  oscr,  and  lo<»kiii'_''  up  Ironi  tlie  window  (»n  tlu; 
left  to  tlint  which  \oii  ha\e  \<-t  to  >iii'moiijit,  while  the 
wild  torieiit of  ;i  rl\-er  rushes  and  jiluiiLi'es  iiiidei"  you 
ainl  *)\i'V  you  and  nil  around  )'oii,  .as  tlioiiijh  in  aiiL'ty 
indiiriiat  ion  at  your  in\a>^io||,  and  a  million  stalwart 
firs,  immense  in  height  ;iiid  thickness,  sta?id  as  lliev 
lia\  e  stood  for  cent  uries  await  iIl^■  the  doom  whi(di  th<' 
little  saw -mill  in  I  he  \alh'y  is  preparini^'  for  them. 

At  the  siimmil  we  enter  th(;  famous  StaiMjxMle  tun- 
nel, almos*  tw<»  miles  in  leiiiilh.  lit  up  hv  incandescent. 
liL'"hls,  in    which    we   are    impri-  »ned    lor   elev<Mi    lonii;, 


<  I 


s 


T 


32 


./    Il'nj/.I.V'S    I  Nil'   Id  ALASKA. 


V(fl*y    IdllL''    Mllllllh'S.  ,'111(1     clllfl'jc    I',    'jet     a    <_r(.().|     \  i«'\\    .,!' 

1  lie  >\\  il<-lit>,'i. '.  i<i;m1.  \\  liicli  I'dT  ilic  i\\(,  \('ar*  nrcciMl- 
iriL*"  I  )i<*  comjild  iitii  <»r  iIk'  liiriii<l  <-aiiic(|  t  li(tii-aii<U  of 
passciiii't'i's  If)  aii<l  fro  ^\\i-v  il-  |»ciil'>ii^  liiiili<'i>  witliuiil 
(lie  lo-.«<  <»f  a.  -iii'jl*'  life.  II<*i<'  a'jaiii  \\<'  'jd  a  -till 
l»cttc|-  \  icw  <»f  iIk-  iiit  cicah-  aii<l  flilliciili  fcaU  nf  cii- 
L!iii<'<'iiiiL'"  tlinii  Mil  t  In*  cjislci'ii  -i<l<- 'if  1  lie  ni'Minl  aiii,  ainl 

fw—n  licr«'  u'c  IIimI  tin-  itir- 
1  iii('>.f|iic  (iivcii  |;i\  cr, 
w  lii<-li  >-la\  -  l)\  w^  un- 
til \\c  rcarli  I  Ik-  |<-\c!, 
}»i«»a(|  ri(yallii|>  \'al- 
I«-\ ,  fciio  \  ii«<l  \^A-  its 
\\'>ii(|('rfiii       \  ic|«|      (,r 

Imp-.    |*iarl\    iii  I  Ik-  fall 

tin-    li<»|  I-  H<-M-   nf   I  lii-, 

ploJilic     \al|('\      wvy     a 

cliaiJiiiii'^'    >i<jlit  ;      I  he 

\u\\\  \  irH'N  Ix'iii'j'  la<l<'ii 

wit  li  t  Ik-  iMaiitifiil  |)al«- 

iri'<'''ii    ll<'\\<  I'.  \\lii<-li  is 

jtlii<k<<l      \\\      Indians 

vvIki    vi)\\\i-     l<»n'j     <li-- 

tanco   ill    lln'ii'   ca- 

noc<    <ii-     (.n     ilicii' 

p<»ni"'-  in  I licir  pi<-- 

tuf<*-ijn«'  «-<istiiiM(^s 


— 1 

•C*"***  •" 

cA 

'  ;■- 

i^ 

••fc      ^ 

'^\ 

1 

^ . 

fl 

, 

3 

1 

•\j 

1 

1 

9 

ii 

^ 

irM 

'. 

r 

1 

Sli 

;i 


i^k. 


/J(  (>M.\. 


3.^ 


wllli  llifir  »«(jii;i\\-.  j»a| «»•»><•>  ;iii<|  •Im'j's,  and  camp  lil\<' 
(TNps'n'S  l)V  llic  ii»a<l-i(lc.  li\iiiL''  "ii  <lil<'.l  'jaiiK-   aii'l  lisli 

r      •       \  %- 

w'liicli  iIh'V  l)iiii'_''  willi  tin-Ill,  aii<l  i<*t  uiiiiiiL'-  willi 
ciiMii'^li  cMiij  t(»  j)i'<.\i(|c  l»laiil\<'ls  ami  «»i|i»'i-  nccj-ssurioH 
for  an  <'iil  iif  \ cai'. 

\V«*  an'i\  <'<|.  (»ii  TiH'-iiiy  JiiMiiiiji'j-.  May  LMsJ,al  tin* 
(•it\  of  'l"ac<»jii;i.  An<!  jus!  lidc  It't  Mil'  --ay  that,  iiiiicli 
as  I  \v.'iiit('«l  to  ;iiri\<' at  1  li  |»(ti't  IVmiii  w  liidi  ^ailc«l  the 
v<?s.s<'l  tliat  \\a>  t<»  rarrv  iiit-  to  Alaska,  it  was  witli  sin- 
cere r«*L;r«'l  l  liat  I  left  I  lie  ••omfoi't  >  ainl  liixiii'i<^s  of 
ti-a\<'|  wlilcli  I  lia«l  ('XjM'riciir*'*!  in  that  train  JVoni  tin; 
Mississipjii  Iti\ci'  Jo  the  i'acilir  Ocean. 


•Lit' 


Tin-.    \VIIAI<\  KS  ATTACOMA, 


•  .  f'r. 


i 


;i 


i 


i  ; 


.:     ! 


B'.     i 

1'    i 


^i! 


f' 


(  IIAI'MKi:   III. 

N     tin-    -iimiin-i'    of     IHS.",    y(.ii     will 
iciiiciiiljcr    I    was    one    (»1    a   )>Mily 
\vli<»  \i<it<'(l   'I'a<-«»iiia  as   tlxf   ^'iUfst 
ci'  Ml'.  Cliarh's  IV  Wi-i-lil,  (.1*  riill- 
a<l<'l|)lna.   t<»    wliosi*   .s'itr«'fity    I    l'<'- 
ii('\clli»*  Noi'f  Imtii  I'ariJic  UaIlroa<l 
( '<»iii|»aii\    i-  iii(l<'l>t('(l  i'(.r  1  Ik*  ><•!«•(•- 
tioi)    of    lliis   >)M)t    a>    til'-    \\<'"1«*i'ii 
tciiiiiiiii-    «»r    tills    'ji-<'at     lii'jliuay. 
It,  wa-  iIh'Ii  a  -<lt  N^iiiciit   (I  <'aiiliot 
hfiii'j;-   jri\'-<'ll"    i<>    <li'jirii"y    if     uitli 
t  lie  iiaiiK'  <»l    t<»\s  II )  of  alxdit    1,7"^* 
-       j»c<)j.|.-.      \\'<'  ivaclicil  it   l)\    rail  aloiiL''  t.li<* 
•.      <j!i".'Ui<ll\  I'i'"'  iirc-'jiic  ItaiilN  <»r  1  1h'  ( '<»liiiiiljia 
l;i\  ci- frotii  l'a-c(.  to  r«)rtlaii        '"I  tli«'iic(% 
j.artlv    1)V    lM»at    aii<l     paillv    l>y    tail,  ♦'  't    SoiijmI. 

Tiioifjli  I    was   iK.t    iikI'-   <'Ii<»ii'j1i    t<  .'>s   it    to   my 

l,,,>t,  I  do  iK.I  now  li<'-ita1<'  to  >a\  tliat  it  (li<i  ii<»t 
favoi-ahlv  inipiv--,  iii<-.  ainl  !ii\  tlii<'«'  or  four  days 
cxncriciK'*-  of  it>  ac^'onimodat  ion-  and  loo(|  were  any 
tliiii"-  bill.  sati-l'actor\.  Its  str(M*ts  wdv  iinpavfMl  aii<l 
diistv,  and  as  wfMJrovc  tlii'oiiiili  its  pi-incipal  tlioroiigli- 
iarc  our  liors(;s  were  coniixdlcij  lo  in«'and('r  around  the 


I 


^    rl 


I 


36 


A    l//<9.]/./;\'\V   VA'//'   7V>  JAJ.VAJ. 


n 


I 


t*^:- 


M 


ti  I' 

ii 


I 

In" 


it 


tr(M;-HtiiiM|>s,  st  ill  iiiai'kiiii^  1  li<^  H'VA'.ut  cxisteiKM^  of  (he 
|»i'iin<'\;il  loi'cst.  Tlicrc  wcic  tlicii  hut  ilwcc.  I)iiil(liiii:-s 
(»!' iiiiy  |»r(^t(Misi(nis  in  the  |»la<M — m  j)i('Uy  Mpiscctpjiliaii 
cliurcli,  Ji  voiiiiL'' ladies'  sciiiiiiai'N ,  and  a  tln'cc-story 
I)l'ick  st<)!-(\  ^V\\v.  ((Illy  <»l>j<'<'t ol'  iiilci-cst  \\;is  llicOM 
'I'acoiiia  saw-mill,  .'ihoiit  two  iiiilrs  dislanl,  and  llici 
littl(^  town  siii'i'oiiiidini^  it,  cxccjtt iiiL:'  w  Ihmi  llicdonds 
lift<Ml  ii(»w  Mild  (lien  <()  L;;iv«'  a  \  icw  <»!'  Moiinl  'I'a  .)iiia, 
wlii<di  j>r<>c('ss  of  liflinLf,  l>y-l  lu'd)y,  iicNcr  look  pl.-icc 
while  I  was  tlicfc.-it  1  lial,  t  inic,  s(,  t  liat  I  hciifan  to  iM-licvi* 
its  iM'autii'ul  lines  .'ind  its  snowy  lio<)d  wci'e  all  a  ni\tli. 
Sciveil  years  li;i\<'  come  and  L;'oiie,  .-iiid  se\  en  times 
ji\'e  thousand  |»eoj>le  li,'i\e  eonie  ,'iiid  st;i\<'(l  licic  since; 
th(;n  ;  not  only  st.'iyed  In  i*e,  hut  tliey  li;i\e  prospered 
an<l  L!;i'o\\  11  licli,  and  their  wc-ilth  is  !i<>w  iii\est<(|  in 
l)ajiks,  ma!iul*;ictories,  storehouses,  hainlsome  shops, 
one  <'li;irinini;'  hotel  and  m.-iiiy  others  of  less  j)i-(;teii- 
sioiis,  a  iinix'ei'sity,  two  <»r  thi'ee  colh-ires,  a  (h)/en 
Hchooldiouses  and  as  man}'  cIiui'cIk^s^  m  ])eautii'iil  thea- 
trt;,  and  eveiy  thiiiL!;  that  si^oes  to  m;i,ke  up  nrliaii  life. 
Its  society  is  simply  delitrjiirnl,  composed  of  people; 
iVom  the  lari!;er  Kastei'ii  cities,  many  of  lliem  young 
mai-ri(Ml  folks,  starting-  lile  jiiid  "  irrowini:-  up  with  tin; 
counti-\',"  hut  carrsiii'''  with  them  t<»  their  \'',\v  W'estej'M 
iiomes  such  (»f  the  conventionalities  and  I'ejinenients  of 
city  life;  as  hest  secure  the  anieiiitie's  which  ai'e  indis- 
j)eii,sahl(3  to  well  I'en'ulatcMl  society,  omittiiiLi;  oidy  those 
fonrialities  which  chill  liospit.'ility  and  <lwarf  coiii'tesy 
and  iL^ood  lu'ee<ruii;  into  ni;'clianism.  "  ( 'oine  and  dine 
witli  us  to-mo!'i'o\\  a(  sescii  ''  sounds  so  much  hetter 
and    lieartiei'  than   "  i\(r.   and    Mrs.   Status  recpiest    tin; 


I 


7.1  (().]/.!. 


i7 


pleasure,"  etc.,  i'ir.,  and  vet   wIkmi  y<>ii   sil    <l«>\\ii  in  (nic 
of  (li()s<*  ('liai'iiiiii^ly    fiiniislMMl    hoincs  yoiii-  i'<^(M'pti<>ii 


I 


UKl    your  (liiiiKM-  ',[}-('.  ju 


;t,    tl 


ic   sninc    ;is    \(»ii    liavc   <'\ 


}><'rit3n(',(i<l  in  I>(','ic()ii  Sli-ccj,  Fiftli  Avenue,  oi*  Walnut 
Sti'tM't.  Tlie  eliina,  the  i^lass,  tln^  llowei-s,  tlie  na|)eiy, 
tli(!  cookiuL;",  an<l  tln^  wines  would  do  cicdit  to  an 
<Mnljassy  .'it  Wasliin<i;ton,  and  tlie  ii;uests  y»»u   are  apt  to 


UHH 


■t  will 


eiKTally  lia\(!  a  store  oi   knowuMliic  (piiteas 


r  k 


ilu( 


gratifyini^  to  tin;  reason  as  t  lie  \  lands  are  to  the  palate. 

And  what  h.i.s  hi-ou^ht,  ahout,  so  woiidei-rul  a  ti'ans- 
foi'ination  in  scncu  short  yt^ars  ^  is  the  (piestion  \vlii(di 
naturally  suL^^csts  itself  as  [  mai've!  at  the  husy  thi'ongs 
nioxin^'  to  and  fro,  and  listen  t«»  the  clatter  of  tlu; 
mason  ainl  th<M-ar[)enter,  and  t  Ihmn  histle  of  locomotive; 
and  st,eand)oat.  Let  us  see:  standini^  upon  tin;  j»i'ome- 
nade  of  "  Th<!  Tacoma  '\'iii<l  look im^  out  o\ ci"  ( 'ommeiKM;- 
ment  Hay,  the  lii'st  ohject  to  attivict  my  eye  is  the 
inun(;nse  linnher  mill  of  the  St.  Paul  and  'I'aeoma 
LundM'r  ('ompanv,  comple(el\  coNci'in^j,'  a  piece  of  land 
lialf  a  mih^  loui;'  at  the  mouth  of  the  I*uyallup  Itix'ei', 
and  i^ixini^  employment  in  all  its  rainilications  to  fiv(« 
or  six  hundred  men.  lieiK-ath  the  Mull'  upon  which 
this  pi'onuMh'uh'  is  huilt,  I  heai*  the  iiiiid)!inL:;  and 
s]iuntiiH4' of  tli<'  hundreds  of  freij^ht  <'ars  laden  with 
.stores  from  the  I^]ast,  which  are  here  <list ril)Ut<'d  over 
the;  vast  area  of  counti'V  know  n  as  "  PuLict  Sound 
Far  out  in  the  deep  water  ai-e  a  dozen  oi'  more  lai'ij^e 
sliips  waitiiiLi;,  I  am  told,  for  their  tui'n  to  receive; 
cai'<j^(>eH  of  lumJM'i'  or  coal  oi*  udieat  foi-  l^iiLi'Iand,  Aus- 
ti'alia,  (dnna,  Japan,  San  1^'i'ancisco,  and  Soutli  i\ni(;i'ica; 


V 


8()ine  ol 


th 


lem   na\  e    hroULT 


ht 


carii'oes   o 


f   tea   from   the 


' 


if 


I 


il 


I 


I! 


m  I 


38 


/    iro.l/.I.WS    I  Kir    10  ALASKA. 


Ori(^lll,,  ollicis  li;i\('  jll>I  <ri-^c|i;il';ji''l  il"li  r;ii  Is  ;(li<  1  liKT- 
cllUlldisc  ul'lci"  ;i  \^)\\y  liiitnllis'  \(t\;i'j('  ;iioiiii(l  (';ij»(f 
IIoi'll.  'I'<»  IIh'  li'jllt  I  sec  tlic  dense  ^liioke  ;ili(l  dis- 
lilK'tK  lienr  I  lie  noises  W  Inell  colne  flMln  ni;iellilie-sll<»|>S 
and  l"oiin<liies,  and    all    ai<»iind    me    I    ;i)t|    >ensiMe   <»!*  a 

I'CSlless  acli\il\  |  »e|'\  adin-J  IIm'  jieople,  whose  li\('s 
seem  lo  l)e  de\  (»|e(|  t  o  i  ndef.-i  t  i'ja  I  )l<'  I  <  )1 1.  To. 'I  d\\(dle|' 
in    llie    I'iast     W  lio    ||;is    heeil    tol'lured    l)\     I  lie   ^lo\\     |»|(»cess 

<»r  Ma^t  in-j- and  <li'jL!'iii'-''.  "I'  m;i-oiir\  and  <-af|»enl  i-\ .  of 
j)lnnd)in'j'    aii<l    ^lazini;'    and    i^oolin-j',    of    paperin'r   :ind 

IVescoinL!",  wllicil  jK)Sl  |»one  <ine's  occll|  i;inc\  of  111-  new 
home    linlil    il     I»econie>   a    <|lleslio||    wl   e|  hep    lie    will     llNC 

lon-j"  eiioii'jii  to  '_'•('!  into  il,  it  is  ;i.  s>  nsatioii  to  waldi 
1  lie  e\o|iit  ion  of  a  few  lo;id>  of  |il;ink  ;iiid  l»(»ard-«  into 
a    j»l'etl\     <^)i|ee|l   Anne   eotla'je,   as     lia]»|teiis    e\'e|-\     week 

in   Tacfima  ;   in    fael,  I    know  of  one,  case  { 1  hat    of   Mi-. 


L 


\\\ 


VIEW   Ol'-    rALlMC   AVi:.\L'li. 


I« 


I 


7//rv>j/j. 


.VJ 


.•iimI  Mis.  ( '.  I*.,  ;i  iK'wK  iii;in'i<'(l  (•(»iij»i<')  wlicic  liu* 
ciih'i'iH'isiii'j'  \'>iiiiLi'  li(»iiscls(M'|)('rs  were  icsidiii'j  in 
llicir  lioiiH'  ill  l<'ss  lli;iii  ;i  fort  III ulit  nrirr  tlicy  \\m\ 
sclcch*  I      ;i     silc      I'm-     il.        1     <';illll"|      >;iy      t  lie)      l)uill      it 

IVniii  cclljir  h)  '_:;irrct  in  icn  <ln\-,  i'ov  ii  li;i<l  iK-illK-r 
(iiK-  It'll'  t  lie  ol  Imm',  IhiI  it  liad  >i.\  i<«>iiis  ;iii<!  ;i  j»<>rcli 
.•iikI  ;i  sliiii'jlr  i'<>(»|',  .'iimI  was  not  «»iil\  linhitahh-  hilt 
(|iiil('  "  si  \  lisli."  '' Tlx-  'l';icoiii;i '"  lidtcl  i^  well  l<trat('<l, 
;ill(l  well  kept  ili:ill  t  li<  »-<*  r('>«|  »('cl  s  \\  |||c||  ;i  |c  iin  lc|  x-lK  I- 
(•lit  <A'  tlic  \  icis--il  iidrs  Mild  Naiiarics  of  lahor.  'I  Im' 
room-    ;ii-<'    wdl     riiiiii-li<'d    .'iiid    so    is    the    l.-i.  'cr,    l»iil 

W  llclK'N  «•!•      ;ill\       tllill'J'      \\<*lll       wrnllL;',      clllK'f      witll       t  Im^ 

I'liisiiK  or  tlic  scr\i('c,  I  found  it  ;il  1 1  ihiitnldc  to  tin- 
dinicii)t\  of  scciiriii'j  coniiM'tcii!  servants;  in  f.-id,  tliis 
I  roiihle  apidics  to  nil  lioiis('k<'<'|»in'_;.  piihlic  or  priwile, 
in  1  Ih'-^c  ii<-\\  ciiics.  'V\\i'  ni;iii  w  lio  is  inlcHiL^cnt  cikiiiliIi 
t(,  ni;ik<'  :i  lirst-r;il<'  waller  (•an  do  hctlcr  in  soiik*  cttlicr 
(•aj»acit\,  and  I  lie  woiii'-ii,  I  -iipposc,  -je!  inarrie<|. 
W'lieii  1  siiLi'Li'ested  irviii-i'  t  lie  experiment  of  Liirls  to 
wait  at  tal»le,  a-  I  liaNcseeii  in  my  lra\(dsdoiie  \<My 
siieeessflllK  t'lsew  here,  I  was  iiiforiiKMl  that  they  W<»llld 
lia\e  lo  \)i'  l)olli  \i'V\  old  and  \  er\  iiLi'ly,  U)V  there  was 
a,  Lireat  scarcity  of  !)ri(h's. 

I  )ecor;it  ion  I  )ay  came  aloiii:  while  we  were  at 
'I'acoina,  and  I  wa<  aLireeably  siir)H-is<Ml  at  tlie  lariiv 
mimlx'r  «»f  the  sderaiisof  tin-  war  who  part icij»ate(l 
in  the  parade,  aii<l  the  evident  pictsperity  of  all  (d 
IIh'Iii.  Near  the  hea«l  of  the  column  ro(h'  my  old 
frientl,  (ieiieral  .1.  \\  .  SpraLi'Uc,  who,  (ieii<  ral  Sliei'inaii 
tells  me,  was  one  of   i  he  \cr\    l»est    commanders   in    his 


•I 


IS 


■  If 


if 
1 


^TM^'-  ':-iUlli>L.  ,-jr-^ 


40 


J    //V;.I/J.\"V    7A7/'   /V^  .]/..] SKA. 


V    I 


M 


l! 


I 


army;  .'HkI  in  the  cvciiiii-j  it  was  (jnil*-  llatl<M'iii^  to 
hvAiV  my  little  hook,  "  A  W'omairs  Wai-  Kccord," 
spokciii  well  of  l»v  lli<*  '»i';itor  of  tljo  daw  It  is  not 
vvoi'tli  wliilc.  paiisiiii^'  to  tliiiik  w  Ijat  would  lia\<'  Ixm^ii 
t}i(i  condition  of  this  <ir<*at  Nortliwcst,  country  if  theses 
}>rav<*  men  had  failed,  noj*  wh(^thef  the  Russian  eaiilcH 
would  not  still  1»(^  ilyinii'  at  Sitka;  hut  I  mnei-  look 
U[)on  tiieii*  )-anks  and  tatt<'re(|  jla-j's  v\iihout  a  jtatriotic 
s('ntinient  of  ^jvttitude  for  all  they  accom[)lishe(|  for  us 
and  foi'  j»ost<'rity. 

i\  few  days  may  1»<^  well  s|»(;nt  in  'I'acom.'i  ;  thei'c 
are  many  int<'i'est  in<^  .-uhI  ))j<'tty  tjiin-js  to  see,  niid  the 
distance's  are  easil\'  ovei'eojue  }>\'  a  system  of  electric 
jailways  carryiiiL^  you  in  <'\('i-y  diiectioii  ;  and  let  m(* 
say  just  here  that  tint  \V(^stt  .;,  people  fi-oni  ('liicaLJo  t.<) 
San  Francisco  are  far  ahead  of  us  in  th(Mi'  sti*<M't  rail- 
ways. One  would  imaiiinc;  that  the  ohiect  of  these; 
conv(n'an(;es  is  to  c-ii-rN'  \'ou  to  \'oui'  d(^stination  as  fast 
as  is  consistent  with  comfort  ami  safety,  and  this  does 
seem  to  l»e  the  princi])l<'  out  \V<;st  ;  hut  in  the  Kast, 
foi-  instance  on  the  Mjidison  Axenue  Railway,  whi<-h  I 
am  c(>mjM'lle(l  to  use  daily,  the  speed,  if  sjkmmI  it  can 
he  cjdlecl,  seems  to  he  re'julat<'d  to  fatten  the  IkM'scs 
and  afford  <'a<-h  passenL'cr  ;in  opportunity  to  i-ead  a 
novel  or  take  a  nap.  The  Anni(!  W^riiiht  Seminary 
for  Younj^  liadies  stan<ls  upon  an  eminenc<;  o\  cjlookini^ 
the  Sound,  and  has  the  reputation  of  heing  an  excellent 
institution.  There  is  a  similai*  school  for  yoiim^  men, 
and  one  oi'  two  collcires,  perhaps  univei'siti<'s,  main- 
tained hy  r(digious  denominations.    To  those  who  have 


" 


u 


1, 


li 


I 


..» 


. 


I .\(  oMA. 


4' 


M  r.'iiicN'  foi-  iiiacliiiMTy  Miwl  such  tliiiiti's,  ;i  \  i^il  t<»  lln' 
01<l  'r.'ic()iii;i  IuiiiImm'  mill  uii<l  tin*  niic  faciiiL';  tin*  liolcl 
will  r«'j».'iv  tlicii).  At  the  i'oi'incr  I  Iiiivc  seen  Iiii'jc  loi/s 
fiv(*,  six,  Mii'l  sr\('ii  !'(•<•(,  tliick,  li.iiiicil  ii|i  \)\  imiiKMisci 
(;li.'iiiis  IVojii  (lie  w.-ilci',  sllcc(l  into  hoards  in  a  \<'i-y  i'«'\v 
iniiiiitcs,  and  tln-n  rolled  inio  ships  thfoii-jh  s(jiiar<* 
lioh's  cut  in  I  hcii' sides  (•.\j)i'<'s-^ly  for  the  jHirpose.  A 
stj-eet  cMi-  runs  to  this  niill  from  nenr  the  hotel,  and 
what  I  h.'(\e  (|e-.cril>ed  can  he  seen  i'\y'X\  <l.'iy,  and 
ou'jlit  not  to  !)<-  niis-e(|.  1>\'  i-efei-rinLf'  !<>  my  notes 
I  <*oidd  tell  \oii  e\actl\'  how  inaiiN'  million^  of  feet  of 
wood  are  cut  here  e\eiy  \('ai',  l>iit  yoii  would  f<J!":>; ',  it, 
as  I  ha\('  done;  so  I  will  run  <»n  and  sa\'  that  Aniei'i 
can  Lake  an«l  Lake  Steil.'icooni,  which  are  l><»th  on  the 
same  dii\'e,  and  ahout,  twehc  miles  from  the  <*ity,  ,'ir<^ 
widl  woitli  a  \i-it,  ii<;l  onl\'  hecause  <if  their  inti'insi(; 
merit,  hut  on  account  of  the  dri\<'  o\  er  the  pi'airie 
throuji'li  the  |)!ne  'jr<»N<'s  and  alonu:'  the  level  I'oads. 
I>ut  the  Li'randest  si^jlit  of  nil.  and  certainly  the  most 
fascinatinii"  noi't  h  of  San  I'ranci^co  oi-  >outh  of  Alaska, 
is  Mount  'Tac<»nja.  I  shall  iie\(-i-  forn<'t  the  Hcuisation 
of  its  first (lawniiiL'"  U]><)ii  me — ahout  the  thiivj  day  I  was 
in  '^Factoma.  We  wcic  walking"  aloni^  (i  Sti'eet,  I'.ear 
the  park,  wIkmi  m\  esc(>it  e.\'cl;iime(h  "  liook  at  Mount 
Tacrofna,"  |>ointin!i'  in  the  dir(M'tion  to  which  I  had 
looked  in  \ain  from  sutii'isji  till  dark  in  tlui  ho[K^  that 
tlie  l(»weriiiLi;  clouds  would  dissolve  or  disperse  and 
open  it  up  to  \iew.  liOokiiiLi'  in  t he  (jirection  indicat(*d, 
my  fli'st  impF'essioii  wa-;  one  of  disappointment.  To 
m>'  e\e   it   was  nothiiiij'   hut    a  \er\   oi'diiiar\'  emiiKMice, 


h  d 


%\ 


\% 


42 


A    //Vy.|/j.\".s    /A'//'  7"  ALASKA. 


\  ., 


-till  <'fl))>-<'<l  1,\  u  \  cVy  Impolih'  wlutc  <'l<»ii«|  uliicli 
<-<»ni)»l('t<-l y  nia-k<'<i  it-  ouiIIih-h.  "I-nt  it  -iij»c)l;^'  1 
ua-i  M>k«Ml.  '•  \\"«'ll.  ically,  to  Ix'  frank  wiili  \'»ii."'  j 
rcplic'l.  'I  ail!  tciiiMy  <li-a]ij»oi))t('(|.""  " 'I  li^-ii  \<<ii 
siir«dy  <l<»!i"l  s(M^  it,  us  I  h<m^  it.,*'  was  tlie  )'<'Sj»<)n-<'  ;  ami 
a-  I  hcgaii  to  follow  tlio  fitiLr<'r  of  rnv  r-orijjiaiiioji  w  liil«; 


MOI.M     JACUMA. 


1 


■ 


- 


m^^ 


"^, 


.\i()l-\l    lACOMA. 


43 


lie  ti;i('<'(l  out  ill*'  iiioiiiit.'iiii  .'ii)(l  >cj)ai"at.(f<l  it  from  llx' 
cloud--  \\lii<-|i  -till  lio\c!'('(l  .iiouikI  il,  I  i('aliz('(l  tlia*  lli«' 
suj»)»osn(|  \\l)it<'  cIoihI  \\a>  rcalK  tli*-  inoiijitaiii  itself; 
;iii<l  a-  tlx'  at  iiiosj)li<'l<'  f-lcarc*!  ;iii<l  1  li<'  iviv-^  of  t}i<*  sct- 
liiiLf  -ui)  <-.A(')-<'(l  it-  jMijc  white  -lojM's  uilji  a  roseate 
L'low.  I  hee.'iiiM'  t  iaii^fixe(|  lo  1  Ik-  >)  >ot ,  ^raziii;.'-  \sith  all 
the  \\<  U'lenuciit  of  a  ehiM  lo(»kiii'_''  f<»r  ihe  fli'->t  time  at 

HOIlK'  new  ejcutioli  Ik-  (joe-  not  cojuliielieil'l.  ''If  I 
rievf'j-    -('('    ;ui\'     tliiu'J     e|-e     |,ut     tliat,      I    alf/lo>l     hieatij- 

h^'^sK'  e.\'elai)[ie(|.  ''I  au)  mofe  than  repaid  for  my  two 
trips  across  the  e(;iit  iuent.  I»eautifui  !  tii'aiid  !  maj«^H- 
tic  !  neNei'-chaii'j'iML'' luouiitaili  !  There  ynu  ha\  <•  stoo*!. 
aixl  there  will  \<*u  '-tand  for  all  time,  re-jai'dle--  of  tln^ 
mutatifjii-  'joi  !)'_'•  Oil  aj-otind  \'ou,  ( "is'Ilizat  ion  tuay  ad- 
\anee.  harhari-m  ma\  ei^mc  a-jain,  -iM-ptre-  juay  Ix^ 
.shattered.  'j'oN'ernmenl--  nia_\  fall  and  new  one-  i-ise, 
ealamit\'  of  war  and  Jloofj  luay  sweep  pi-jniv'  hiim;inity 
from  the  earth,  l)Ut  \(»u  will  remain  unehan'_'e(|.  lui- 
nio\al»le.  to  sur'>  )\e  it  all.  It  i-  not  youi*  eur\e-,  uor 
\  our  ere\'a-ses,  \'our 'jlaeiei'-.  \'our  t  int -.  nor  \<nirdeep 
unmeitinii'  ^now,  wh'eli  fill  me  with  ;iwe  and  adnjira- 
tioii.  It  i-  \our  eternal  -tal/ilitw  t\pieal  of  all  that  Is 
steadf.'isi  in  faith,  in  lo\<',  in  hope.  Oh.  what  a  com- 
fort to  feed  that  \ou  will  ^till  he  here  when  I  j-eiurn 
from  m\  \  i-it  to  \our  -i-tej-s  in  Alaska,  ami  that  your 
face  will  he  just  a<  fre>h.  as  'jlad.  and  a--  honest  as  it  is 
to(la\  !  Thanks.  Ix-autiful  '''lacoma."  for  remalnliiLr  out 
in  the  sunli'jlit  and  the  m<.<iidi'jlit  <liirin'/  the  j-emain- 
A>'-v  »f  in\'  sta\'  within  -I'.dit  of  \ou.  Hon\  I  en\  y  the 
cloud^.   which    lia\e    \'ou    >o    often    e.\clu>i\'(d\'   to  them- 


i  * 


;#' 


I  \ 


44 


J  im.i/.i.ys  /A7/'  '/('  .//../.sA'. ;, 


selves!  I  !iee<|  iii>|  the  \\lii-|)C|'  \\lli«'ll  lells  me  \(»l| 
lower  lie.'U'lv  I. "».<)()(»  feel  .mIx.nc  the  SCM,  ailV  llioic  lliaii 
I  WOllM  listen  In  llM-cVIli<'  W  ll<»  .'lli;il\/<'"l  tlie  re.'illires 
<»I'    tlie     tioiire    nf    ;i|l    ii|e;i|    \\o|ii;ni.        I    C'Ul     look    at    y<»IJ 

witli  tlie  j'aj)t  iires  of  Sliasta.  aii«l  \\'a>liiii<jtoii,  Mount 
I>la!i(',  aii<l  llie  .Iiiti'jJVaii  still  tiiiiirm'j  In  my  nature, 
)>ilt  I  \i<*l<l  to  \«)U  tlic  halm:  I  '-aie  not  liow  tall  or 
llo\s  l)i'o;i(|  \oii  arc,  or  wlietliei-  youi'  <|eej»  slia(|o\v>< 
jiikI  lii'jli  I'lLilit-^  arc  j'o?-ests,  or  ioi'k><,  or  lila'-icr- :  to  me 
you  ai'c  jx'crlesN  anil  iinri\  alle<I.  like  tlie  \  enus  <lc 
Milo,  wit  liout   j»|-ototy|»c  oi-  ant  ily  |tc,  al»<olutcly  unl(jue. 


.. 


J'l  VAIJ.Ll'   JI'Jl'-l'IUKJiKb. 


ft'— "^    .'••  ;jf. 


k 


■  r 


.. 


. 


T 


C'TTAITKlt   IV. 

\\\\  st<'.'iMislilj»  i^hiK'H,  \\;is  a<l\  <*i'lis(Ml 
to  s.'iil  oil  the  iiioi'iiiiiir  of  Monday, 
.Iiiiic  2<l.  at  foiii'  o'clock,  so  tli(^  j)as- 
sennci'.s  cinhai'kccl  on  Siiiidavcveiiinir. 
A\'c  ]ia<1  already  ini*onii<'<j  oiu'selvcs 
dial  she  was  a  fiiu;  vcissel,  }>iit  were 
not  |)icj)ai"cd  for  the  treat  wlilcli 
presented  itself  as  we  dio\(;  down  to 
tli<^  wliai'f  to  find  a  lari^i^  ocean  ship, 
sph^ndidly  illinninat(Ml  from  stem  to  stern 
with  (dectric  liiihts,  awaitinif  us.  ()'i  c<)iirse 
onr  curiosity  was  excited  to  \isit  all  partH 
l1oatinL(  home  tliat  was  to  fiirnisli  iis  with 
all  th<'  (Munforts  which  exactin^r  toni'ists  (jemand, 
and  natiii-ally  we  first  of  all  paid  our  i-espects  to  tlie 
saloon.  Here  we  found  (n'ery  tiling  in  apple-pici 
order-clean,  neat,  spacious,  and  thorouii'hly  comfo  tu- 
l)le;  in  fa<-t  it  was  tlu^  c<>unterpai't  of  the  saloon  and 
social  hall  in  the  best  of  our  tiansatlantic  steamers. 
'rher(;  were  three  tiei-s  of  stat<^rooms,  all  of  them  ov(M'- 
lookiuL^  tint  watei-  and  none  of  IIkmu  hciing  what  are 
known  as  inside  rooms;  a  pi'omena(hM'xtendin<r  over  the 
wliole  length  of  tlui  sliip  around  tiie  upper  and  lower 


.f  tl 


le 


l»   '^ 


*  / 


iv 


« 


I 


!« 


/•> 


ft' 
I'" 


4^' 


/    //VM/. /.\".S    '/A7/'    /^'   .//,./ '.A'./. 


ti<ij'.^,  ;iii<l   .'I   ^'<*.'ti    ni-   Ix'iicli  ill    IVmiiI    of  <'\('iy  <l<t(»r,  ili*- 
whole   iM'iii'j;'   ro<»f<(|    ill  ill  -iK'li  ;i  iiiaiiiKi-   tli;ii   r\«Mi  in 

ilK'IcilH'Ilt    WcallMT    \ol|    coIlM    li\«'    olll -ol'-flool^   willioiil 

lln'  risk  (  ''  -jrltiii'j'  w'l.     Tlii^  hcin-j'  Iht  lii-t  \  oyaii-c  I'oi' 
tlic  season  she  \\a>  IVcsli,  >\s  (■('!,  ;intl  rlcdi,  ciilircly  \'n-*- 
fioni  tin*  detrsljiM"'  slii|to(|ois  llial    make  some  voyages 
si<*l\<'iiiiiLi; ;  and  tin*  rliina  liIoss  of   licr  new    while  paiiil 
as  it   niiiroied  ihe  niinilM'rh'^^  iii<-aii<h'sceiit   li-jhls,  ;/av(i 
\\i-V  :*.  /'r/r-(//tf//t//r/n   i'\]\'<-\    w  hieh    sel    11^  all   lo  fialcini/- 
iii..'  at    the    \<'iy    start    and    conoral  iilaliiiL!'   <'a<*li    "'thcr 
on  the    hii'jht    prosjM'cts   alidad.       I  eonr«'ss    that    I    was 
not,  a  little  disa|»|»oiiited    when    I    foiind   thai    oiiis    was 
one  of  the  ver\    tiniest,  rooms  on    i  he  s|ii|»,  contrasting 
>o  iiid";i\  <»i';il)l\    with  niy  s)»;icioiis  dr;iwiniz-i'<'"ni  in    l.hc 
Pullinaii  ear  :    Idit    what    wa>   my   >iir|»rise   when    I    was 
j»olitcl\'    told    l)V    tin'    jMirser   that    as   soon   ;i-    the    ^hip 
reached   I'ort  'rowiiseiid  and  took  on  the   |;i>-t    l);it<di    of 
I )ass« Miliars,    he    would     reari'aiiLi'c    the    rooms    so    that, 
all  should  he  j.erfecily  satisfi<Ml,  "  for,"  h(;  ad<led    •' our 
iiistriictions  ar(^  to  mak**  (wcrylxxly  as  conifort;il)le  as 
is   possiMe."      True  cnouii'h,   next,   afteiiioon     we    were 
chaii'_n'd    to   a    \«*ry    laip',   .-ind    w<'ll    located    room,   and 
<4i\eii  the  ii>e  of  the  a<l joinin'4  < Mie  for  our  haLiva^e  ;  and 
tliis  incident  s<trves  to  illiisti'ate  the  uniform  (•onsi(h'i'a- 
tion  and  kindness  w  hieh  (wei-y  one  ahoard  e\)»erie!iee<l 
at  tli<'  hands  of  hot  h  olVK-ers  and  servants,  from  th<' lioiii- 
W(;    left    Taeoma    until    our    return  ;   and    l«»    those    of 
us  who  are  fond  of  ti'a\el  and  advenlui'e  this  is  a  \ery 
impoi-lant  mattei',  for  unless  we  find  oui's(dves  in  a  con- 
tented frame  (»f  mind,  we  are  in  m*  luood  to  a[)preciate 
t\ut  surr<nindi"ij;s. 


i 


/  > 


t 


I 

4« 


t» 


^■* 


i 

■ 


Ol'k'  CAPrMN. 


A1 


Of  cuiirsjt  v<Mi  will  waul  In  know  alxuil  lint  ( luptaiii. 

\\  <'ll,  I  'ill  L'<»iiii4"  t<»  ,say  what  I  lliiiik,  |■<•L.^*l^(ll^•HH 
of  lln!  cfVcct.  TIm!  jiliraMi  may  not  Ix'  <'xactly  wlial 
Hojin;  woiiKMi  woiiM  care  lo  scl  down  in  jtiinl,  !)iil 
it  is  «'XjU'eHMiv(',  and  yon  will  Know  <'\aclly  wlial.  I 
mean,  w  Ikmi  I  t<'ll  }  on  thai  Capl.  Jaiin^s  ('ai'ioll,  of 
I  lie  (/ii('<  11^  is  just  as  ni<'(t  and  Iov<!ly  as  he  can  !)•',  It 
jiiiist  \)v.  rciiMtinljcicd  that  dininj.^  tint  whole  of  I  In; 
I  wo  W(M*ks'  voya<i;<;  (with  lh(t' (^\'(•<'j)lion  of  a  couple 
of  hours)  w<*  ar<!  within  siszlit  of  land,  nioic  llian 
half  IIm*  liiiic  williin  a  f<'W  hiindi'(Ml  f(i(tt  of  it  on  each 
si(ht  of  us,  and  as  this  is  coiisidoed  nioi'e  (liHicult 
nax'igatioii  lliaii  when  out  on  ihe  hfoad  occtaii,  the  ( 'ap- 
lain  spent  inosi  of  his  time  on  "  I  he  hridij^e  "  ;  l>iil  wh<'ri 
he  did  c(>me  lo  meals  it  was  my  j^ood  forliine  losil  near 
him  and  lo  <lisc()\er  lliat  Int  was  still  full  of  <'nthiisiasm 
;il>oiit  tin;  ti'ip,  thoiiLih  he  had  been  makiiiL!'  it  for  tlie 
hesl,  ])ai-t  of  his  life,  an<l  that  nothint^  ^^I'atiiied  him 
nior<!  than  to  feed  that  those  ai'oiin<l  him  wer<t  (tnjoyimr 
it,  exc(*ptijii^  ])ei'haps  I  heopjjortiinily  some!  lines  afforded 
him  of  <j:i\inL»:  them  a  j/ood  deal  of  useful  information. 
I  have  ()ft(;n  thought  that  a  sailor  may  Ix;  none  the  less 
a  sailor  l>ecaus(t  lie  is  courte<)Us  lo  his  passe n ^fi' rs ; 
hriiscpHMiess  is  not  essential  to  estahlish  a  rej>utation 
for  discipline,  any  more  than  had  tempei-  should  Lfo 
hand  in  liaml  with  courage.  I  ha\'e  known  mil<l-m.-'i- 
iiered  men  who  were  the  })est  of  soldiers,  ami  I  hav(t 
seen  sailors  who  wei-e  as  much  at  hoiin;  in  a  drawinj.^- 
room  as  in  a  tr«'ih--  I'he  storv  of  the  v<>ii"ir  "laii  ('ross- 
ing  tin'  Banks  of    Newfoiindlaml    who   inno('(Mitly   in- 


r  1  I 


i'^ 


r.  ?! 


h 


I  I 


48 


/    /fVy.JM.VV   TNir  'lO  A  LA.    <A. 


hi 


\\  * 


<jiili<^<l  :   "  ( ";i))tjiiii.  is  it    al\N;i\^   '".-,-}    li<M«' ^      .'iimI    ;f<>t 

for  .'III  answer,  "  How  tlo  1  kn(»\\.  I  don'i  ///v  licrc."  may 

,s<'rv(f  lo  lcss<Mi  tln'  iiiiiiihci'  of  al»-«iir<l  (jiH'stions  u  liidi 

\voill<l  no  <l<)til)l  \v<\  till-  tcmjM'r  of  1  lie  most  aiiiial>l<*  of 

sc^jhIo^ts,  IxiI  it  also  serves  to  hrijitr  out    in   -tioiiif  <'on- 

trast  those  ojlieers  who  lia\e  th<;  tad.  if  not   ih«'  n.itiiral 

ii!<"liiiat ion.  to  tolerate  the  ciiriosity  of  tlioM-  nf  us  who 

arc  rcallv  an*!  sineerelv  in  s<'arch  of  know  1«m  )•/(•.     When 

<'aj»tain  ('arroll  <li(l  ^/\\o  ns  a  speeiincn  of  that  icitartcc 

\\hi<'h  i^  a  l)orn  trail  of  hi^  eownt rymcji.  ii   wa>  (lone  tu 

produce  a    laiiirh   ami    not  t«t  hnniiliatc.      l""or  Iii"«)aiicc^ 

N'cry  t  hou'jht  fully,  t  hcsc  shij»s  arc  j)r<<\i<le(|  w  it  h  a  st(*ain 

lanncli,  which  iscarri<'<|  on  the  lower  deck  leady  for  use 

if  tlie  \(fss(d  should  l>«?conie  disal>le(l,  in  w  hicli  case  the 

)li^•lrest    assistaiK'i;    jui^fht. 

1x5  t  w'o  oj-  three  hundred 

tniles  distant.       The  |»as- 

seiiiz"(*rs,  hovvcNcr, 'jot  the 

id«'athat  this  was  a  j»h*as- 

iir(td)oat    to    \){\    us(m|    foi' 

Jittl(;  (^\(:ursio||  pait ie.>  in 

AlaHkan  waters,  and   oik? 

of  the  la<lies,  w  ho  was  as 

jnu<'li  a  favorite  a<  she  was 

a  tease,  and   who  deli'jlit- 

ed  in  lia\  iii<i:  «'i    little  fun 

at  the;  (yaptaitTs  (\\j>eiise, 

asked    him  what    he  was 

S/oiiiL''    to    do     with     tlie 

steam    launcli     when     we  hodak\l  ly  AmUor, 


t 


t 


t 


i\i 


\\ 


f 


v\ 


i;4 


.VAJ  ///./:. 


49 


^of  lo  Al.i«^k.'i  f  "  (ii\  ('  Ikt  a  i-nnl  <»!'  paint  "  w  as  t  he  (|iiick 
r(fsj)oiis<',  aii<l  oiii'  fair  fi'i<Mnl  ••iij<»\«'<l  it  a^  mii«||  m-  tin* 
l'<^sf  of  iiw, 

iNllM'tiially  at  fuiir  o'cl<M;k,  I  am  tnld,  \\c  left  tin* 
vvliaif  at  'I-'u-oma  ami  li<'a<l('(|  iij»  I'u'jct  Soiind.  Of 
collide  i  was  asl(M'|),  Ixit  ii|)oii  iJ'acliiriL''  S<'altl«'  at 
hIx  I  \sa>  ii)>  ami  (|i'«*ssc(|,  ji;i(l  taken  a  nil*  nf  hot 
colVcc  ainl  <'atcii  a  l>i^ciiii  hioiiL'Jit  to  u\^^  1»\  mii- 
room  st<'\\af(l,  who  ;jloi-i<'(|  in  the  sonhrnin'  I  of 
"M<'(iiiily"  (so  called,  (loiilitlos,  becaiiHi;  he  was 
VIM'S'  small  and  his  haif  was  vei'\  led),  and  was 
asliofe  .'IS  so<tn  .'is  the  |>laid<  w.-ts  rc^'idy  for  us.  IIer<? 
\V<i    I'em.'lilied     two    <»|'  t  hi'ee  lioill's,  .'llfoj*!  in-j  a   loo  hi'ief 

o|)])oi'tiinity  for  a  hurried  \isit  throuu;h  \\w  slreetH 
of  this  j)li<eni\  city,  which  in  a  ye.'ir  li.'is  ris*  fioni  tlui 
ashes  of  ,'i  Jii'i^  whi<'h  .'ilmost  l)lott<'d  it  from  the  m.-ip. 
And  w  h.'it  ;i  eity  !  Ijei'e  w.as  t  he  s.'inie  (juick-step  mo\e- 
Dieilt.  of  the  people  which  i  ol)ser\'ed  in  T.'Kvjmji  .'IS 
they  hustled  iniellit»'ent  ly  .ahout,  (%'i<'h  one  l>ent  uj»on 
some  err,'in<l  of  husincss — no  idlei's,  no  l>e^'t^;irs  e\er\- 
}>odv  <loinL!"  something',  an<I  not,  cnou'/h  to  do  it.  Seven 
years  }>efor(^,  .'is  1  remenil>ered  it,  it  w.'is  .a  town  of  some 
])rei(Mision  ,'is  to  si/e,  hut  none  w  hatever  .as  to  architec- 
ture. Now,  the  tr.'ick  of  tlui  i^reat  contlagr.'itioii  th.'it  in 
an  lioui"  liad  mowed  down  e\<*ry  business  block  in  th(; 
])l<'ice  w.'is  r<'co</ni/.'il>le  onl\'  l)\'  tlie  substitution  of 
inassi\<^  stone  .and  brick  buildiiiirs  of  the  most  modern 
type;  the  streets  were  newly  .'ind  well  p,a\ed  ;  (electric 
and  c;ibl(f  r;iilw.*iys  wc^'e  jinLrlin}^  their  bells  in  .'dl 
dire<'tions  ;  the  wh.'irves  ;in<l   docl<s   W(M'(^   dotted    with 


\\ 


\ 


i 


il 


i\ 


'i^. 


s    1 


\  -  ' 
i 


I[-'     > 


50 


//    II'OJ/.I.VW    I  Rir   h  '  .1  /..  IS  A\L 


Cl'OW'ds   (»r     W  olkliK'N    ;tll<l     Jtijcs   of  '_<(mhU:    ;iim|    ;i    kind    of 

M.Mi'k   Tajilcy    l<'iii|i<'i;iiii('iil    <>\'    hcin-j'  j«»ll\     iiii<l(*r    (In; 

lIlMsl      ;i(|\i'|-c     ciicijliisl.'iiiccs     ('\  idcill  l\'      |M'I"\  ndiMl     iIh! 

coMiimiiiit  y. 

I  sluniM  li;i\('  lik<-(|  to  icMi.'irili  Ih'I'c  ;iI  IcmsI  ;i  (|.'i\ 
t(»  li;i\('  iiiii  (.III  i(.  I,;ikc  \\';iN|iii|M(<)ii.  ..f  wliidi  I 
Il.'IAC    lic.-ird    >..    liillrli  :     ImiI     ;iII    I   (•<)i||d   do  ill   ill,.   Jiiiic 

tiiiK.'    .hHuIUmI    iik;    whs    to    look    wil.'i     wonder     ij))(»m 


r-' 


tLiiJM'iiJ. 

**• 

-4-... 

» 

W 

^'1 

WK^^Sm 

V;';I'':  i^ih''SH 

SKAIILK. 


\v1im1,  lins  IxM'il  ,'l<-coiiij>lis||('d  .siijcc  the  lii-c,  ;il.  1  jo  di'o|> 
into  one  <<r  l  w  o  <>{'  I  he  slio|»^,  wlicrf  ;i,  woiiinii  c'lii  'jcii- 
(M"dl\'  Lt'i't  ;i  r.iir  iil(';i  of  I  lie  i  11  li;i I )il Mills  "f  :i  lowii  l»v  u 
i^'k'UKM'  ;it  llic  cli.'ii'.'iclt'f  ;iiid  slylr  of  I  lie  lliiii'_fs  ofl'crcil 
for  sal*'.  If  lliis  's  a  rcasoiiaMy  rdialdc  (est,  and  I 
lliink  It  is,  I  li;i\c  roniH'd  a  vciy  CaN'oraldc  ojtiiiioii  <d' 
the  tastes    and    lialits  of    (lie  jieoplc  ofSctatlJe,       All    I 


#?•• 


r 

4 


i 


iJri 


4. 


*t 


i 


SI:    \7'7' /./'.. 


51 


s:i\\'  li('i'<'  w.'is  ly|»ic;(l  (if  A iiicficnii  ^'o-nlicndisiii.  \\\ 
aiiollici'  yc.'ir  il  will  Ix-  known  ;is  n  cily  of  iii;iL;irirKTii(, 
l)nil(liii^s,  ;iii<l,  l!k''  al  Spokane  r'alls,  the  pcojilc  \\i|| 
rcali/.c  llial  (lie  recent  ealaiiiil\  was  af'ici- all  a  hiessiii"-. 
'I'lie  only  t  llill'/  I  lial  pliz/les  nie  is  w  here  (  lie  people  nw. 
to  collie  from  who  will  occiip\'  the  rooms  of  t  liese  lofty 

structures.        I     see     the     SUppl\,     l>llt      polMJei-    (.'      .      1  h(! 

'|"|<'>^I  i<»ii  of  (lemaiid,  .-iikI  am  answered  that  it;  exists 
already,  ami  if  it  did  not,  the  '.growth  of  this  re-^ioii  is 
s(.  jdieiioiiiciial  that  the  supply  of  aii\  ihiii^'  and  (wei'y 
tliiiiL!;'  does  not  k<'ep  pace  with  \\u^  demand.  It  is  vi'v- 
lainly  the  parad  se  <»!'  hiiildeis,  mecdiaiiics,  and  la,l>orei's 
at  present.  .Not  the  least  interest  inn;  sio-ht,  here  was  a 
'j;roiip  of  canoes,  or  "diin'oiiis,'"  occiipierl  |)\'  Indians  as 
ro\  iiiLi'  haUitalions.  It  wa-i  curious  and  instructive  (o 
see  the  \\()ii(|eiful  economy  <»!'  Space  pi'act  ised  l»y  these 
people;  a  wli(»le  family,  includiii'j  cats  and  do^'s,  l)ein<'" 
housed  ill  ;t  sin-jhi  lioal.  In  one  (»f  them  I  saw  t.wo  cats 
and  a  do'j,  who  had  ri<eii  In-fore  the  rest  of  the  family, 
eat  ill'.;'  t  heir  meal  from  a,  r<»iind  tin  \csse|,  whi(di  liad 
pr<»l)al>ly  done  si  nilar  scr\  ice  juj-  the  (»th<'rs  al,  I  he 
e\('iiiii'j;  repast;  while  thus  entertained  I  noticed  a 
inoNcmeiit  ;i'i\  iiiLi;  (wideiicc  <»f  life  hciieath  one  of  t  h<* 
Muiikets,  and  presently  a  meinhei'  <d*  the  hoi,' -ndiold 
p(tked  a,  pair  of  I  roiisers  iiiitler  it,  w  hi<di  so  stimidate(|  t  lie 
contoi't  ions  ^oini^"  oil  within  I  his  op(Mi-air  slccpiiij^  and 
(ll'essinti' ro<»m,  that,  hy-aiid-hy  a  Ncry  sori'\' speciiiKMi  of 
the  red  man  emer'jcd,  occii|>yiiiL»;  the  afoi'csai*!  panla- 
loons,  and  <lemoiist  raliuLi'  that,  the  I  !  ik«'t,  had  per- 
foi'iiie(l  a  \'er\   respeclal)le  and  importanl  fiincli(»n.  Tliti 


f    H 


h 


52 


A    WOMAN'S   TRir  TO  ALASKA, 


I 

t 

r 

h 

t 

( 

f 


W' 


i'<!st  of  the  family  In  (l(vji'(^e.s  arose  {Vniii  their  hoiKhnrK 
after  Lfoiiirr  lliroiii^Ii  similar  iiioxciiienls,  and  wlieii  they 
uei'e  eiitii'ely  iiimiask<'<|  coiisistecl  of:  a,  maich'ii  wvy 
iniK'h  uii<lei'<lresse(|,  in  fact,  not  enoiiL^h  <li-esse(|  f(»r  an 
onera,  wlio  at  once  i-esiiine(l  h<'r  s<'\vinL^  wh<'r(^  slie  liad 
pi'ohaMy  left  ofV  the  niiiht  l>efoi*e,  the  old  man  wlio 
had  acte(l  as  \alet  in  di<t  i-il>Mt  in'j"  the  weariiiLT  a|)j)ai'el 
to  the  sle<*|M'rs,  an  old  ci'<»ne  in  a  scarlet  and  j)ea-Lfre<Mi 
(li'Ciss,  two  litth^  Ui:ly  childi-eii  who  had  hetter  ne\ei- 
Ikmmi  born,  two  cats,  and  a  (hjLf.  Tliore  were  a  dozen  of 
tlies(!  canoes,  and  this  was  a  sjMM-imen  of  life  npon  eacli 
of  them.  I  doiTl  know  where  they  were  i/oino'^  -is  tlie 
ho]»-}»ickiiiL!'  <loes  n<»t  take  place  until  fall,  ImH  proli- 
al)!\  the\  had  c<)niedown  to  trad<'  their  lish  oi-  their 
furs  for  llonr  an<l  Lrrocei'ies.  At  all  e\entsthat  is  what 
I  was  told,  and  if  it  is  not  (*xactly  true  it<loes  not  make 
much  matter.      "  SI  noii  }•  /v^/vy,  2:  Ik-h,  frornhf," 

A  lon<i'  l>low  of  the  whistle;  an  inter\al  of  fifteen 
minutes  and  then  aiiotlier  slioil  Mow  :  u  shout  from 
t  lie  (captain  instruct  in<j  tin*  m<'n  on  the  wharf  to  cast 
oil'  the  ropes;  a  siifual  to  t  he  enL!'inc-r<«»ni  :  atui'iiof 
the  eiiLcine,  and  \\<*  were  sailiiiLT  up  the  pici ur<'S(pi(i 
waters  <»f  I'uii-et  Sound.  The  day  was  heaiitiful  :  it 
<'ouhl  not  ha\e  heeii  better  adaj>te(l  toting  use  we  were 
makinif  <d'  it  if  it  had  been  providcMJ  s|)(MMally  for  us ; 
in  fact  duriiiLi'  iIm'  whole  fortiiij^lit  that  wc  live<j  on  ih(; 
(JiKcti.  we  had  the  most  charming  weatlier  lu'iLdit  sun- 
ligiit  an<l  cloudless  skies-  -excejttiiiLf  tin*  <lay  of  our 
arrixal  in  (ilacier  I>ay,  where  it  raine<l  for  a  fewhours. 
In  all  this  we  wei-e  rarely  fortunate,  it  seldom    liapj»en- 


4 


:| 


ru(;i:'i  socx/K 


33 


1 


ing,  T  iixw  told,  ilint  Al.'isk/i  toui'ists  aic  ]>1('sh(m|  witli 
two  \vli()l(;  weeks  of  \\  li.'ii  I  cal]  seeiK'iy  weal  liei'.  It 
is  often  foii'LCN',  ri<M|iieiill\  W(*l,  jiimI  soiiiet  ilues  \'ei'\' 
cloudy;  in  .'iddilion  to  which  the  forests  ,'ii'<'  peii- 
o<licall\  oil  lire,  the  aliiiosphere  hecomino-  so  sinok\- 
that  e\-ei-v  ol>je('t  reiiiaiiis  o])sciire(I  until  th<'  11  res  are 
<|ueiiche<!  hy  rain.  Next  to  heiiiii'  horn  i>liiid  ainl 
doomed  to  listen  to  descriptions  of  what  is  ii<»iiiLi'  on 
around  you,  it  must  he  the  Lfreatest  torture  to  know 
that  you  ar<'  in  the  pr(^sence  of  I  Ik-  most  Ix-aiitifiil  works 
of  the  cr(*ation,  liiddeii  fr<»ni  you  hy  a  fo;.!',  and  that  \oii 
are  HpeedinLC  ]»ast  tlieni  |)<*rhaps  forexcr,  iiexcr  to  re- 
tiii'ii.  I  ihe!'ef(»re  lio|»e  the<lay  is  near  at  hand  when 
it  will  not  he  necessary  to  remain  on  hoard  the  steamer 
an<l  make  the  coniplete  circuit  of  the  c<»ast  wlietli<*r  it 
h(;  fair  or  foul,  hut:  that  yoii  will  he  eiiahle*!  io  (h»  it 
})y  <\'isy  stai^es,  restinLi'  wiiere  you  will  at  pleasant  inns, 
and  r<'Siiniiiit(  your  joiirne)'  when  tlie  <'lemeiits  are 
fa\'orahl(\  Of  course  tliis  kind  of  tliiiii^'  will  come 
vvlum  th<'  rush  of  siLiiit-seers  will  not  only  warrant  it, 
hut  make  it  necessary,  yet  I  am  well  pleased  that  I 
]ia\e  s(*en  it  all  in  its  ori'jinal  aii<l  iindist  iirhe<|  i^raiKhMir, 
as  I  saw  tlie  ^^dlowstone  Park  hefore  tiie  introdiict i<»n 
of  hotels  and  stau'iis. 

I*iiii;et  Sound  is  a  Liraiid  sheet  of  water,  sexcral  miles 
wide  and  I  should  think  nearly  two  liundre*!  in 
leni^'th  ;  of  c()iirse  it  is  simply  an  arm  of  the  I'acilic 
Oc(Nin,  hut  so  c()niplet<'ly  landdo<d<e<l  upon  all  sides 
exceptiiiLT  at  its  ('iitraiice,  t  hat,  it  ma\'  he  cons' jerecj 
oiK^    \  ast     lake    alfordiiiL''    ahsoliitc     jirotectioii    to    the 


* 


M 


I  li 


Kjfi:  I 


i 


54 


A    WOMAN'S    I  Kir   ID  ALASKA. 


1/ 


sliips    wllirli    (•((iiic    here    IVdiii    ;ill    [>;il'ts    of    the    WOI'M. 
Il    is    full   of   Ix'.'iiit  il'iii    isl.'iiids,   ^oiiic   ^^\    llicm    rising' 
so  |)r«'cij)iloiisly    lV<^iii    the  sea,    llinl    iIh-ic    is    no    fool- 
liold   on   llx'in    for  iii.-in  ;    others  sloping'  <lo\vii  so  i^ivicc- 
fiilly  to  llie  water  a,ii<l  drcssc*!  in  sn<*li  ^•oi'Li;<*on-i  coloi's 
tli.at  Y'Mi    waiil    ininH'<lint<'ly    to    l)ii}    oiic,  and    hiilld   a 
lions(^  on  it  at  tli<*  cri'st,  (»f   the    lawn.      If   yoii   look  at 
tlu'in  as  links  of  a  continnoiis  cjiain,  voii    pcrcciv c  that 
they    arc*    siinj>ly    spui's    of     tlit^    Olympic    Mountains 
i>ai'tiallv  sul)ni('iv<'d   l)\   the  oc«';')i,  and  that  if  hy  some 
(ronvidsion    of   natui'**    llie  water   rerede*!,  i  he  stcs'iniei* 
would  iiiid  itself  st  rande(l  at  the  hasc  of  a  de<'p  canyon 
and   siii'rounded  on  all  sides   l)\   a  raiiL!*'  "f   niounlrdiis. 
What  most,  impresses  vou  is  llie\ast  amount  of  tlmlu'r 
on  all  si(h's      t  rec's   of  enoi'm<»us    liei'jiit  and   tlii(d<ness, 
and  such  millions  of  them  that    you  wonder  how  man}' 
U'encrations    it     will    lake    to    consume   them.       In    my 
school-days  I  knew   not  hiiiLi' of   Puifet  S<»und  excepting 
tliat  it   was  a,  speck  of   Mue  on  the  maj»  somewhere*  up 
l)\'  t  he  Noi-I  II  Pole  ;   in  fact  no  one  else  knew  niueh  ahout 
it  tli(*n  (for  that  was  otu  r  a  (juai't<*r  of  a  cciiluiy  aiio)^ 
yet  to-da\'  I  am  re;dl\   afraid  to  wi'ile  the  names  of  ih(* 
many  cities  and    low  ns  w  hicli  dot  its  shores,  lest  some- 
])()dy  shouhl  accuse*  ww.  a  \<'ar  <»r  two  Iicikm^   of   ha\  iiil;" 
oVe|vlook(*d   mall\    of  tliem,   fol*  these  cities  lil'ow    up  III  a 
spasmo<lic,    starlliii<.j    Mini  of  a  fashi<»ii  that   lakes  your 
breath  a\va\.      Anacortes  on    T'ldal^o    Island    has   two 
}iot(*ls,  electric  liLi'hts,  a  railway,  and  altoiit    three  tln»u- 
sand    people,  all   <»f   which    iiaxc   come   since   last   New 
Veai-"^I)a\.      l"'aiiha\  en  on   pM-lliiiLiham  Iiay  is  perlia[)s 


1 


/v  v;/:  •/'  sorxD. 


55 


t"\vi<M'   ,'is    l;il'j<*  .'1^   A  iKK-olIc-;,  ;iii(|     is    jii-.!    <»iHi    \<';il'nl(I. 

I)(»iil»l  l('<s  otlicis   .'ir<'   Ix'iii".!'    I»«tin    wliilc   I    wiiic,   ;iii<l 

m.*i\'   hr    I'c.M'ly   I'nl'   ;i     |»l;i<'<'    In    iii\    letter    hd'oic   I     li.-t\(; 

\{j    ('()|ii|»l('tc(l,    if     I     (Idiit     iiinkc    ii;i<tc;     ,*ni<l     l<»-(|;i\'     J 

li;i\('  n,  Icttcl'  I'loiii     \<»lir    hint  licl',   ll<»\\     sill'\  cn  ili'j'  ;i   new 

line  nf    i';iill<>:Mi    lic'i  f  <  )l  \  in  |  ii;i,  \\  lio  s;i  \  >  :   "'I'./ls    |)|;ic(* 

is  ijiow  in:^'  so   r;i|»i<ll\   lli:it    I    liclicvc   moncv-    iincst^-d 

))i'ii<i('nti\  in  ic.-il  ('<t;it(' c.tn  he  <|<)iil»!('<|  in  I  w  o  nionllis,'' 

'I'Ik*  fjH'l    is,  ('\  <'i'\  1»<»(|  V  li;is   tlic   r<'\('i"  to  do  soinclliin'j', 

.'in(l  llic  w ondci'l  III  <l('\  ('lojinicnl   wliidi  lliis  prodiicfs  j^ 

;i(l  I'.'icl  iiiLi'  so  ni!i('!i  .'ittciilion    tli;il,  c.-iitit.d 

.'ind     l;il»or    ',[]•{'     hotli    cnii'/r.'il  iiiLj'     llicic 

rroiii    the    V/A<\     in    <ii<li    .•ilHind.'incc  tli;it 

Ix'lori;  _  t  lie    cello    (if     tlic    ,'i,\(*    li;is    dii-d 

M\\;i\   ill   the   roi<">t,  towns  .Mnij    f;iil\\  nv  s, 

cliiifclics  ;ind  schools,  mills  .'uid  r;ict<»rics, 

sli()j)S    <*ind     homes,   luoc    l;d<cii    the 

jil.'icc  of    lh(^   st;itc|y  lils,  nnd  .'i   hiisy 

<-oiimiiniit\    is    l»i'(»ii'_iJil-  l(»<jcjhcr   to 

in<  rcjisc    .'ind    niii!ti|)l\,    ;iiid,    I    liojx^,   1o 

|)r(»s|»ci'.     'I'lic  nimilic,"  of  stc;inil)o;its  one 

meets     is    .-ilso    ;i    i;|'e;it      siil'J  »fis«;  j     so     ;ifc 

the  crowds  (»r  iKisseii'j'crs  \\\i'.y  cai'i'v. 
Amon<j;  the  foimer  I  noti.-cd  (1m*  ^^if'J 
of  I\  i mjstnn,  .-ind  the  siiri<tiino .nii'S  )>ein'j' 
not  nnlike  the  Hudson,  !  n.-it  iiially 
thoiiiihl  of  home,  not  with  rc-jret,  tli.it 
I  w.'is  n«»t  t  hei-('  .•iLi.'Hii,  hilt  r.dlier  with 
)»ity  I'oi'  tliosii  who  could  .'nid  who  did 
not  ccnnc  out  to  lo(»l<  ;it  this  wondcifiil 
.'ind   cliMfinini:'  c(»iintr\. 


lilSllDl'    Vl  AlllMr  K 


I 


M 


) 


m 


s^> 


I  ii'n.i/.i.v'.s  I  Kir  7(>  .]/..ish'.i. 


At    I'ol!    Tow  IiscimI    W  c  >h»|i|i(  <|   <i|iI\    l<tii;_r  (.iioli'j-li   to 
afVoi*!  (';i|»t;iiii   (';iii<ill    tiiiM'  lo  >cttlc  lii^  Itii-iiicss  witli 

tll(^   Cllslolll   lloll-^c,    till-     hcill'J-     tin-     Jx-ll    of    ClltlN     (wllMt- 

i'Xi'V  thai  may  iiicaiij  for  I'li^ict  Soiiinl,  aixl  to  lake  oil 
tlic  )»uss(;ii<j<*rs  wlio  liad  roinc  fVoiii  Sail  I'l-aiici-'co  on 
IIm'  st<'.'UiH'r  ^  V/y  <>i'  Topr/.ii  t<»  join  lis.  AikI  I  aiii 
ri'jlit  Lila"!  t  li('\' caiiH',  for  t  licir  soci«'l  \  was  >o  chJon  al»I«'> 
and  tlic  iiarrat  i\  ('-  of  llicir  n'ccnt  tiijts  sonic  of  tlK-ni 
«'\l('ii<riii'_'"  as  fara>  tin*  cilN  of  Mexico  -o  cntci'laiiiiiiLf, 
t.liat  I  am  almost  t(im[)tc(l  to  >cl  tlicif  names  down  in 
|»riiil,c\cn  at  t  lie  risk  of  l)eiii'_^  personal.  i  w  ill  simjtly 
mention,  how  ever,  1  liat  anioii'j'  1  licni  w  ere  l>isli<»j)  \  ladi- 
mir,  Arcliimandrite  Innocent,  aii<!    \U-\ .  .lolin  A.  Solio- 

l(ill',   of    the    (ireek     ('llll|-cll.    W  llo    \\  efe   o||    ail      I'^jtiscopal 

inlssioii  to  Sit  k;i. 


■ 


\ 


{^k'odak'd by  Autkor. 


IJ* 


*ri 


O) 


m:j^ 


AT  li\  <•  ill  I  lie  .il'tci'iK  on,  al'lcr  a  Nciy  sinool  li 
jiiii  a('i(»>s  t  lie  Slniits  (»l*  I'^iK-.M,  with  llic 
liori/oii  of  1  lie  I\*icilic  Ocean  <>]\  <>ui'  h'I't 
iW^  and  innuincraMc  ])iclur(ts(|U<^  islands  <»ii 
■///f,  <»iii"  li'jlil,  \\(;  rcaclH'd  N'ictoria  in  P)!'itisli 
("olnnihia,  sitiiatti  at  tli(^  <'xti'<'ni('  soiitli- 
cin  end  of  \'an(M)ii\('r's  Island.  When 
we  were  notin<^d  that  we  would  rc^niain 
hci'e  se\ei-al  lioni's,  tliepi*  was  an  itninedi- 
ate  iiish  foi-  the  lown,  which  was  sonic 
ihiee  niiles  distant,  our  ship  hasini;' 
stoj»j)e<l  at  the  outei'  wharf  in  ))l'<'f('i'cnc(;  to  eiiter- 
iiiLi'  tin;  harl)oi-  ;  liow<*\<'r,  we  found  awaiting  us 
sexeral  elect  j-ic.  sti'ec^t  cafs,  which  lattlecl  us  ofT  at 
a  li\  >'ly  ])a(M',  and  in  a  very  few  minutes  set  us  <lovvn 
in  the  lieart  of  tin;  town.  iMy  pre\ious  visit  to  \'i(;- 
toria  having  inipressed  an  iiMlelihh*  memory  of  a 
(h'licioiis  dinner  at  tli<^  I)riar<l  House,  I  resolved  to 
r<q)eat  tin;  e.\'|)eri(^nee,  and  wouhl  ha\(!  cai-ried  out  my 
resoKe,  l)ut  was  tohl  that  a  visit  to  th(^  "  IVKxile 
Dog"  was  (jiiite  the  pfitpei'  thing.  Now  tlie  "  Poodle 
Dog"  is  th  iiain<*  of  a  restaiii'ant,  Ixit  why,  I  am  sure 
I   eann(tt   tell,  and    the    propi'ietoi'  w  as  onc<',  I    Ixdiexe, 


>(1 


f 


«  ■  I 


n  f 


,'( 


5« 


./    l/Vy|/,/.\"S    /A'//'   III  ALASKA. 


f  li<- r7/W'<.r  1  ill'  l>ri;ii<l  ll<»ii-<'.  Il  i-  ii'il  ;iii  <>-lciil;iti<)ii> 
I'Mikill'j'  |»l;ir<'.  \  ct  II  lii;i\  Im-  |«-c<)'j  iii/f(|  I »  \  ;i  \  cfV  ;i )  •]  »<•- 
ll/illt.'"  «II~|'l;i\  III  it-  W  ilnloW  >  nf  I  lie  'jridtl  lll'lll'js  ill 
SC.'l-'Oli    will)    wliicli    II    (•;(||   -l||»|il\    \<>ll.        Oil   I  lli-^  occ.'isioll 

tlx'i'*'  \\<'i<'  -liriiii|i-  oil  >li(»\\  Ix'.-iiii  ifiil,  l»i"i;jlil  jiiiik 
-liriiiip-.  A-  I  \\;i-  <l<'l»;il  iii'j'  w  li<'t  li'T  Wf  \\(»iil«l  din*' 
licr*'  <'i-  ;il  1  lie  ni  her  pi. •!<•(',  t  li<-  -liriiii|i-^  ••.■in'icil  i  Ik-  il.*iy, 
s(»    \\c  ••iih-r*-'!    ill''   <'-t;iMi--liiii<'iii .  oiwlcrcH    <rniii<'i'    \<a' 

ci'jllt  o'clock.  ;iImI  tlicii  J!||ii|i('il  ililo  ;i  \icton;i  of 
.•lljotlicr  -oil,   ;ili(l     J)1;ic(m|   <  .i  I  I'-c]  \c-,    l|li<|cr   I  lie    '_' l|  i(  l;i  li<-c 

of    ;i    Hot     o\  ('riiih-lli'jciii     li;ickiii;iii.      1' orl  iiii;ih'ly    ( -o 

tlioll'jlil  1  lie  lijcn  ),  I  lie  >||()]»>  were  llC'irU  ;ill  clo-c(l  (III 
r.'icl,  I  \\;i>  lo|(|  lli('\-  open  k'llc  ,'iii'l  c|<»-('  early),  so  \\(; 
st;ii'te(|   ri'jjit   of]'    111  (|(»  the  ti>\\ii  aiMJ    \\<  -iilxiil)-. 

Oil,  liow  -iiiootli  llie  roa'U  were,  and  liow  nicely  Irim- 
iiie<l  llie  lie(|'j("-,  ami  iio\\  iieally  painted  the  warden 
'jal<'<  all  s(,  jjiLili-li,  \  oil  know  !  and  what  an  Mdeii  of 
llowef-!  If  \oll  lia\e  ii<'\  CI'  -e<-n  I  lie  I'lii-jli^h  "May'' 
ill  full  l)lo--oni,  \oii  Iia\('  ;i  plea-nre  in  >toi'e  for  yoii  il" 
\(»ii  e\ci-  \  i^it  N'ictoria  in  Jnnr.  liow  can  I  d''-;cril>e 
it  !  Its  l»lo--oiii-  are  eit  her  white  ())•  old -ro^e  color,  hut 
the    flow  eiiii'j'   is   so    liixiifiaiit   and    compact,  in    fact  so 

colilph'tel  \-     {•n\{'V<    i'\i'V\     t  W  i'J    oj'    the    t  fee,    thai     the\' 

re-einhje  a,  iiia-s  of  white  (.r  pink  carnations  made  into 
one  Ini'je  l)(tiiipiet  as  lar-je  a<  a.  chen'\-t  ree.  'I  he  air 
was  full  of  lloral  pei'fnine  wherever  we  went,  and  tiic 
e\<'  alii(o-t  tire(l  (if  tlic  'gardens  «»f  I'oses,  lahiii'niliii, 
vii'Liiii;!,  and  the  iiio-«l  m'(>|'J'''<»iis  l)lood-r<'d  peonies  I 
ha\'<'  (wcr  >eeii.  All  thi>  seemed  to  heloiiLi'  to  Victoria 
as  a  matter  of  cmii-^e.  There    \*    s   no   clVoi't    at    ciilti\a- 


a 


X 


I 


-» 


ii 


ill 


1 

i 

■1 

.V 

^' 

1 

ir 


<K, 


./    //V>';J///.\".V    'IK  1 1'   70  .\/..\Sk'A, 


I 


tioii,  ii<t  in»'c|i;iiiic;il  L';ir<li'iiiii'j  :  tlic-c  ll<»\\  (•!••' ^(m-iimmI  to 
tl)li\c  ;ill<l  l<»  1»Im«.-oIii  I»cc;iI|~c  I  licy  ••(HlMli't  lu*Ij»  It. 
'I'm  \\<  ill  iIm'  Ma-l  wliM  l);i\<'  l<»  taki-  niii-  |»l;iiil>  in  f*!' 
Jii^^lits  and  \t\\\  tliciii  in  llic  niir-ci'v,  even  to  sustain  a 
(!onsiiin))t  i\  (•  «',\ist«'nc('  of  a  ft-w  Ix-id'  <lays,  it  is  fjuitc 
rc^lVcxIiiiiL''  tn  jilnii'jc  iiil"  'Ik-  n)i<Ut  «»!' a  -ca  "f  lloutTs 
as  liardv  ami  tcriacions  <»!'  life  as  tln-Narc  <l«'li<*at(*  of 
IVaLiTanc*'  and  of  <'o]()i'.  If  I  |ia\«'  ever  lookc*!  at  a 
('land<'  Loirainc  and  doiiKltd  wIkM  ln-i' liis  |MMi<*il  had 
followi'd  naliii'c  or  Ids  iina-jinat  ion  the  ni<-i,  I  >liall  do 
so  no  inor*'.  ilcic  \\a-  a  tlicrnc  of  land -and  \vat«^i'- 
scajM',  incrcdJMc  on  (•;in\as,  hcaiit  ifnl  loh,  so  hcauti- 
ful  !  "  Ix'voiid  the  icoro(|  u'-t  ion  of  jn-n  or  I)Imi<1i,oi' (-ncii 
caiiicra. 

Natiir*'  lias  hccn  <o  j)i'odi<^al  of  Ik-i'  hoiinty  lici'<t 
tliat  it  is  (jillicnit  to  turn  (*\<*n  niointMitarily  from 
tlic  gi'<M'n  |»astin'<'s  and  I>iillian1  li'ardcns  to  look  at 
somk;  of  tin;  fiiKi  i'<'si(|«'n<M's,  yet  \\<'  cannot  lidp  lialtini^ 
for  a  nioniciit  at  tlni  oii<!  <'r(H't('d  l^y  the  late  Mr.  I)inis- 
niuir,  with  its  castellated  t  iii-i'ctK  and  ic<|  roof  sijrin<»init- 
uv^  a  inaLriiiiiccnt  structure  of  liiiht  <jranite,  hiiilt  on  an 
eminence  whicli  overlooks  the  city  and  |)i'o<liiciiiL^  a 
i^rand  aivdiitect  nral  elfcct.  TliroiiLfh  the  eml>r>'o  ])ai-k, 
and  past  th(^  l^arracks,  we  next  <lro\(;  up  H(^'icon  Hill 
to  tlie  'jxniit  (Ir  riif'.^  and  here  our  <Iri\<'r  ft  r  the  first 
tim(i  stopped  of  his  own  \()liti«»n;  perhaps  it  was  his 
custom,  j)erhaps  he  was  himself  a  litth*  da/ed  at 
the  pictiir(t  whi<'h  hurst  upon  n<  all,  j)erhaj>s  liis 
horses  werct  tire<l.  At  all  e\'ents  \\(:  find  ourselveH 
upon  a  ti'ecdess  lawn,  fiii-ni^he*!   only   with  a  fia^-stafl* 


r/(  7()h'/.\,  11.  (\ 


6i 


.'IImI     a     ll|>tic     l»f)l<|i.  'I'll"'     l»»'Iirli    \\;i-    j»Mlll\     occll  j  »i«'<  | 

hy  two  L*"''!!!  Iciiicii,  will*  \\^'\■^'  >«>  al  <><  dl  >(•(  I  l>y  tlir  sccih' 
}M*f«>i'<!  tliciii  llial  tln'N  liardK  •»l>s«'rN<'<|  our  ••miiini', 
or  iIh'V  WfiiiM  lia\<'  iiia'h'  room  U>v  ii^  :  -o  \n«'  I'c- 
main  in  <>iir  carciuL!*!  aii<l  'ja/<'  in  <|nii't.  -immm-IjIcss 
uoinicM' at  I  lie  cxfjuisitf  pi«*iiiic  hcfor*-  ii-.  '\\\it  land 
,sl«)[M'H  away  al  oiir  I'cct,  makiii'j'  ;ji'<'<Mi  swaid,  tluMi 
<'(>ni<*  a  few  of  lliox'  <'\(jiiisit<'l V  coloird  'jai*<l<Mis  of 
wliicli  1  lia\c  sj»o|<cn,  tln-n  a  piece  of  \\()o<ls,  and 
linalK'  tln'  i'»rk-l)oiiii<l  coast  with  its  snlasliiii''"  and  miii'- 
mnriiiLf  wat<'i*s :  hcyond  tliis  tin-  jdacid  lakcdik*^  land- 
locked sea,  slnddc(|  wiili  inmimcraMc  i>lan«U  and 
dotted  with  hoats  and  >ails  anil  >teame)s  meanderitii^ 
and  taekiii'j'  their  way  liei-e  and  there  throuiih  the 
intricate  chaiineU :  heyond  the<e  th<^  deep  Mm*  foot- 
hills of  th<*  Olympic  laiiLic  frinLi'cd  at  their  l)a>e  hy  the 
royal  and  stately  iii*,  an<l  heyoiKJ  all,  towerini^  through 
tli(^  cloiKJs  rtkywai-d,  th<'  snow -loj»j)e(|  iiiants  of  the 
Nortli  Pacific  coa-t.  It  w  a>  now  iieai-inir  eiLdit  o'clock, 
which  in  this  latitude  and  at  this  s<'a>(»n  isth<itini(^ 
that  the  sun  disapj)ears,  thoui^h  for  two  hours  jnore.  h(i 
illuminates  the  atniospli<'j'e  with  a  jileasant  twiiiLilit 
and  tinizcs  all  nature  with  "  laie  and  roseate  shadows," 
AV^i  saw  thes(i  tints  an<l  (juickly  changini^  c<,loi-,s  in  all 
theii'  phantasmal  mysteiy:  now  jiriissian  hlue  fa<lin<^ 
into  idtraniarine,  then  Ijeinii'  lit  u[)  l>y  a  j-ay  of  yellow 
fi'om  tln^  lioj-izon  suddenly  clianiziiiLC  to  a  pale  Lrr<^en, 
wdiile  tliH  snowy  summit  lines  of  the  Olympic*  range 
were;  tip[>ed  with  opal,  and  ilnali\',  as  the  outline  of 
the  mountains  gi'ew  faint,  a  singhi  streak  of  li<|uid  fire 


\i 


\\ 


i) 


i'  .i'l 


Mi 


H 


y 


I 


II 


1  i 


u 


I 

1 


■ 


L 


) 


if 


l! 


»'»^ 


I 


W. 


-.■-■•  -t 


62 


./    Jrc.ir.l.V'S   TRIP  TO  ALASKA. 


iii.'ii'lsiiii:'  (Im'  liiir  wlwr*'  tlicocraii  scmmikmI  Io  mcll  .m\\;i\. 
It  w.'isM  \  ciitaM*'  sctMU'  '»r  fiiclijiiitiiiciit,  and  we  Irl'l  it 
willi  siicli  icliictancc  that  <uii'  eyes  and  <>iii'  s(nds  I'aiM'd 
Iwickwai'ds  and  lin^ci'cd  witli  It  until  oni'  cai'iianc  liad 
tnrncd  ahnijttly  t«»\vards  t<>\\n  and  it  was  lost  to  \  icw. 
(  )ii  ()nr  w  ay  l>ack  your 
ratiici*  coidd  not  resist 
tile  dcsiiT  Io  alin'iit  and 
ask    (lie    nain«'s    of    the 


'^TmL 


many  plants  and  hlos- 
soms  whic'li  dccoiatcd 
tlic  pi'ctty  lionu's  we 
passed  ;  and  this  lie  did 
of  a  I  tarty  of  yoniiLi'  peo- 
[tle  indulu'IiiLi'  In  lawn 
tennis,  wlio  not  only 
U'ave  him  the  Informa- 
tion with  Itriju'lit  Iiitel- 
liiLi'enee      and      welcome 

phrases,  but  insiste(l  u|>on  loading"  him  with  l>oth  arms 
so  fidl  of  e.\(piisite  llowcrs  that  ^\■hen  he  returned  to 
us  we  hardly  eould  find  room  foi'  tluMii  In  (»ui-  carriage. 
I  shall  not  soon  for<>'et  the  livntle  and  sua\'e  courtesy 
witii  ^vllich  our  simple  re([iiest  for  infoi'matloii  was 
res[)()nded  to  l»y  the  gentlewomen  and  youths,  Avliose 
merry-making  we  broke  in  U|)on,  and  I  ^^as  glad  after- 
ward to  learn  the  nanu^  of  the  Lead  of  the  Inmseliold, 
whose  surroundings  and  j'etinements  wevo  in  accor<l 
\vith  such  i-'ood  l)reedin<''.  Tf  this  pau'e  ever  comes  to 
the   eyes  of  any   mendjers  of  Mr.  K.  CVs  family,  and 


*'«;} 


n/xx/i/<  AT  Till'.  -  rooni.ii  i)()(;r 


^>3 


tilt'}'  slioiild  li.'i|>|H'ii  to  rciiH'iiilu'i'  the  ^^Mllk('^'  inva- 
sion r  I'cf'ci'  to,  I  lio|»(i  they  will  lK*Ii('\<^  tliat  my  little 
group  was  tlioi'ouglily  iiii|>i*t'sstMl  hy  tlicii"  Uiiidiicss 
ill  tills  ('|>is<M|«'. 

"  All  liuiiuiii  lii^ldi)-  attests 
'I'liat  happiness  of  man  (tlic  liiiii^;iy  sinner), 
Since  I'",ve  ate  np])Ies,  mucl,  depends  on  dinner  !" 

Yoli  arc  I'iii-lit,  Lord  H\i*<ui  !  Imt  wlicii  \(>ii  wrote 
"  tlie  iiiouiitaiiis  look  on  Marathon,  and  Marathon  looks 
on  the  sc.'i,''  I  donht  \  cry  iniich  while  "musing  tlici-t! 
awliilc,"  you  would  Iimnc  tolcr.'itcd  .'Ui  inxit.'ition  to  a 
dinner  cNcn  nt  the  "Poodle  Dog";  \  el  let  iiu;  Mssure 
you  that  if  you  had  sent  a  regret  you  would  have 
made  tlie  niistakt^  of  your  life. 

Th(^  "  Poodle  Dog''  is  presided  oxer  l)y  M.  Marlxeiif, 
who  is  a  cook  of  excellent  merit,  as  I  can  testify,  heinir 
(juite  a  coi'don-hhii  myself.  AV(^  were  shown  to  a  little 
a[)artmcnt  in  reai'  of  the  store,  which  seemed  dexoted 
pi'inci[)ally  to  the  ice-ci'eam  eaters,  and  found  a  table 
with  covers  for  three,  pi'ettily  decorated  with  radishes, 
olives,  and  sh]'im])s,  and  a  few  bright  roses,  I  need 
not  confess  to  you  my  daughter  that  much  as  T  delight 
in  ex(piisite  scenery  and  admire  w'orks  of  art,  I  take  a 
great  deal  of  [)leasure  in  gratifying  my  taste  for  good 
livino;:  a  di'ive  in  the  Bois  is  none  the  less  enioval)le 
because  you  know  that  a  lunch  is  ready  for  you  at  the 
Cascades;  the  dee[)  blue  of  Mui'illo  in  the  gallery  of 
the  Louvre  is  })erhaps  app)reciated  with  more  enthusi- 
asm if  you  expect  ])y  and  by  to  season  your  fatigue 
with  a  dinner  at  the  Cafe  Anglais,  or  Vibert's,  or  the 


t. 


;'    ( 


'I 
1 


J' 


233j^aj 


warn 


64 


J    irOAM.V'S    I'Rir   70  ALASKA. 


■I  ' ) 


ilit. 

!     1^: 

J{^ 

li 

Iliclic  ;  and  IIh^  lahoi  >!'  the  ascciil,  ol'  some  Aljdiic 
pass  is  ('oiiijKMisatcd  foi'  not  exclusively  hy  the  gor- 
geous sui"i'oini<liMgs  of  the  hour,  Tor  witluHil  llie  cold 
cliieken  and  Hash  of  iinli\(^  wine,  \\i'aj»jte(l  so  neatly  in 
tlic;  \\hit(!  napkin  ;in<l  j)aeke<l  snugly  awn}'  in  a  cute; 
lun<-li-l)askel,  thei'e  would  ])e  ;in  element  of  seli'-saei'i- 
iic(^  al)out  it  tliai,  would  make  \'ou  feel  you  liad 
j>erfornie(|  some  i\('vi\  of  luai'tyidom.  I  liave,  thei'e- 
fore,  niiiih^  it  a  rule  of  my  ti"a\<'ls  that  my  palat(^ 
and  my  gasti-onomy  shoidd  he  well  eai-ecl  foi-.  If  pos- 
sihle,  in  ordei-  that  I  may  k<'ep  on  sueli  go<»d  teiins 
with  mys(df  as  to  reeei\-e  tlie  vai'Ious  impressions 
of  iMV  journey  in  an  amiahk;  and  eont(Mite(l  mood. 
So  ..lueli  foi'  tlie  philosopliy  of  my  dinnei'  at  the 
"  l*oodl(^  I^^'g'/'  'i"*l  "<'^v  fo!'  the  realistic  j)art  of  it. 
'\\w  inaUre  (rjinhl  sei'v<Ml  it  ///  proprln  jx-rsotKi^ 
and  tli(!  meal  was  opened  with  the  shi'imps  as  an 
iiicentivt;  to  appetite,  I  presume;  if  so,  tliey  w<'!l  jM'r- 
I'ormed  their  mission,  foi'  we  W(M'<'  all  sei/<'d  with  an 
aj)petit(^  foi' — mor<'  shrim]>s  ;  following  thes(;  cauie 
Oiympia,  oysters,  in  the  sh(dl,  not  one  of  winch  was 
largei'  than  a  nick<'l,  w  iili  only  just  a  deli(;at(^  sugges- 
tion of  tlie  copper}'  flavor  which,  to  my  uncultivated 
taste,  spoils  the  English  "nati\-e'';  and  now,  whih^  we 
weu^  ])usv  AV'<"li  a  ])roil(Ml  spriuLC  <-liicken, — and  siK-h  a 
chickiui,  so  w  hite  an<l  so  teiid(M',  -  our  good  h<»st  in- 
formed us  that  li(!  had  forgotten  wlieii  wc;  iii([uire(l  for 
iL^'MWi^  that  lie  had  a  s(|ual)  ])lieasant  in  tin;  i'efrig(^rator, 
and  li(^  would  cook  it  at  once,  if  we  «lesire(l.  "  Roast 
it  Ijefore  the  ih'e,  and  serve  with  hiead  sauce,"  was  the 


? 


V'  ti 


/)/.\'\/:a'  .//■  ////■:  ■■/'(>()/)/./■:  /xx,. 


^>5 


])r()m|il  response  <»r  one  of  lis  ;  "jiikI  hiiiii.';  ;i  iHiUlrof 
(his  ( "lijit(s-m  M;irL;;iii.\  1S(>1,"  snid  .'iii<»t  lici',  liniidiiii;" 
(lie  wine  li>l  l<»  tlie  \\;iil('i';  ;iii(l  wliilc  the  | diC'isMliI  is 
ImThil;'  tniss<M|  ;iii(!  |-<)Mst!'<l  we  1  i iil^ci' < »\  (T  < Mil- cliickcii 
Mild  delicious  (  aliroi'iiin,  Msp.'ii'u'iiis  .Mild  son^jJil  jM»t;it<»<'s. 
Il  \\;is  ]»ei'li;ips  linlf  .'ill  lioill'  I  xd'ofe  oil  I"  y>/Wr  ^A  yv-.s/.s7- 
(iiir(    w.'is  re.'idy,  )»iil  il   w  ,'is  well  wortli  wnitiiiu;  lor;   il 

seemed  lo  Ilie  llinl  I  lie  lllllilliely  demise  of  I  li;il  \oillll- 
fiil  l)ird  \\;is  riilly  nloiied  for  !t\  llie  mniiiiei'  of  liis 
preseiil.-il  ion  in  IJie  form  of  food,  ;is  lie  ap])e;ii-ed  im- 
pale(l  lliroiii;li  I  lie  hreasi  \)\  a  sil\-er  skewer,  siir- 
moiiiiled  1>\  llie  lion  and  llie  iii!ic«)rii  eiilwiiied  willi  a. 
cordon  of  allernale  imislirooms  and  Inillles;  and  willi 
liim  came  a  letliice  salad  with  a  soiitwon  of  onion  and 
( xfiun/oii,  \'\i  "to  s<'l  hel'ore  a  kiiiLi' '' ;  llic  s!  raw  l»erries 
wldcli    followed    had    jiisl    lieeii    picked    from    M.   Mar- 

li'i'llf's  i^'ai'dell,   I  he  cherries   I    lia\e  lleNcr  se<'n  <'.\celle(|, 

excel  >l  iiiu'  ill  (iermaiiN,  and  llie  coU'ee  was  nia<le  i)\'  a, 
l''rencliiiiaii,  w  lii(di  is  all  ihal  is  necessar\  lo  sav  al)oiit 
il.  This  ended  llie  feasi,  sa\('  llie  ceremon\  of  seltlin^' 
lor  il,  and  I  deem  il  my  diil\  to  I  hose  who  follow  me 
hcreafler  lo  say  llial  llioiiL:h  iIh'  dinner  was  as  w<'ll 
se!'\('(l  and  cookeij  as  il  couhl  In  \<'  heeii  at  !  )e]- 
monico's,  and  in  s(-nie  respects  perhaps  a  little  Itettei*. 
}('t  tlu^  prices  were  iiol  <>lil}'  e\orl»it.'Uit  Inil  exlorlioli- 
atc.  I  would  thiM-efore,  jMhise  tliat  ;i  full  nnderslaiid- 
iii^'  he  hud  wilh  the  proprietor  in  ad\ance,  lest,  you 
llnd  y(Hirseir  (diai'^f'-'d  foiii'  dolL'ii's  for  ;i  hoi  tie  (»f  clui'et 
marke(l  tliree  on  I  he  list,  and  .'ihoiit  fbe  (eiits  apiece 
for  shi'imns,  of  which  \-oii  will  lU'ohahlv  <'at  two  dozen 

A  Hit. 


1 

,111 


% 


•  A- 


I»V"" 


if     I' 

W  -I 


I' 

If  n 

M 


'f 


66 


J    //V).J/J.\".S-    /'A7/'  TO  J /.A SKA. 


if  you  .'ii'c  I'oiul  of  tliein.  However,  ^ve  did  not  po'iiiit 
llie  ])ill  to  dlsturl)  our  ('(|U{unniity.  The  iiiooii  ])eiiig 
at  lier  full,  ;ind  sevei'al  of  our  s]ii])niates  hcinij:  in  ^1'^^ 
j^auic  ('<)udition  (\  refer  to  tlie  eatables  ouly),  we 
resolved  to  u^et  l)aek  to  the  i-teanier  on  foot,  and  thus 
perhaps  avoid  the  iiiu'litiuarial  attack  which  M'e  liad 
been  invitiui;'.  It  was  a  jolly  tramp,  along  a  level 
board  walk  of  three  good  miles.  The  yonng  men  sang, 
as  did  some  of  the  old  ones  too,  ^vhile  the  women 
laughed  as  they  listened  to  the  misfoi'tunes,  set  to 
music,  of  an  Trisli  gentleman  who  had  a  mania  for 
tuml)ling  into  hoi-i'id  j daces,  "dressed  in  his  best  suit 
of  clothes."'  AVhen  we  reached  our  bright,  ])eautiful 
sliip,  she  lay  like  a  luminous  ])alace  beckoning  ns  on  -> 
sweet  (b'eams  and  the  dolce  far  idente  of  her  life. 


^ 


\\ 


\ 


h' 


C^ITAPTKR  VI. 

A^'LKrirr  ^^•as  tintiiiu;  tin*  land- 
scajK*  when  we  resumed  oui 
voyage,  and,  as  I  had  resolved 
at  tlie  start  that  I  woidd  oidy 
sleep  wlieii  I  eoidd  Hot  see,  1 
was  iij)  and  waikiiio-  tlie  deek 
iK'foi'e  six  o\doek,  tided  ^\•itll  a 
sense  of  pity  an<l  regi'et,  to  nse  no 
~~-r-^  liarslier  tei'ni,    for   those   wlio   still   ]'e- 

iii.'iined  in  l)e(l.  Your  eu[M)feoff'ee  and 
l))seuit  are  always  ready  for  you  at  the  tap  of  vonr 
eleetrie  hell,  so  that  no  excuse  a})out  "not  liking'  to 
get  up  early  heeanse  you  ha\e  to  wait  so  long^'for 
breakfast"^  avails  you  «,ne  particle.  If  y(,u  (h?  not 
prefer  what  \  am  looking  and  wondei-ing  it  to  the 
comfort  of  sleep  (which  is  an  excellent  thing  in  its 
way),  by  all  means  remain  in  l)ed,  so  tliat  the  few  wlio 
are  enjoying  tlie  effect  of  the  sunrise  may  liave  plenty 
of  elbow-room.  Let  ns  see  who  ai-e  those  who  are 
around  our  little  gi-ouj)  of  tliree,  sharing  with  us  tlie 
pleasant  breeze  and  balmy  sun-rays  of  this  ex([uisite 
June  niondng.  I  see  ^Miss  ]\rargaret  W.,  from  Illinois, 
and  Miss  Marian  B.,  from  NeAV  Je.sey,  each  with  their 


tf 


111 


J   It;  1 


i    u 


■I 


i    'I 


¥^7!r- 


m  ? 


r,8 


A    irOJLLV'S  TRir  TO  A  I. ASK. \, 


m 


I 


k  ■ 
I 


^  I 


f\\ 


Kodaks,  W'jiitiiigfoi'acliaiicc  to  siia[)S(HiietliiiiL;' — l)riu;-lit, 
good  girls  })otli  of  tlieiii,  and  T  wisli  tlieiii  l)otli  g<)o<l 
snaps.  Tliere,  too,  tlie  ever-siiiiliiig  features  of  Mrs. 
II.,  from  San  l^'raiiclsco,  ]\ov  graceful  form  liurriedly 
throAvu  into  an  ulstei*,  and  a  little  searf  carelessly  en- 
circling liei"  throat.  On  the  u[)per  deck  is  the  Rev.  (". 
C.  Tilt'any,  of  Xe^v  York,  and  his  cousin,  Miss  .1.,  with 

their   litdd-gl asses. 


i)rol)al)l\'  talkino"  of 

.1  t  O 

flapan,  the  Yosendte 


and   the   Xorweirian 


midnight  sun  ;  near  tliem,  Mr.  Di'ake  and  ^NFr.  Sherman, 
fiN'>ni  St.  Louis — great  travellers,  and  l)oth  fond  of  it; 
Mr.  nnd  ]\[rs  Meinertzhagen,  from  London,  who  have 
spent  tlie  iirst  two  years  of  their  married  life  travelling 
around  the  globe,  and  tell  ns  they  have  yet  one  more 
year  to  devote  to  it,  ^^'ho  are  now  (h)ing  Alaska 
for  the  second  time  ;  Mi'.  Duhring,  of  Phih.vlel- 
phia ;    ])W   'p   Aladimir  and   his   associates,   speaking 


^ 


I 


mi 


^^s5 


iPgSg|HiappiiMi.i^i4ii,i 


Vancoc]-/:k. 


69 


Russijin ;  Miss  I).,  also  a  o'reat  tourist  and  always  wide- 
awake when  any  tiling  of  interest  is  to  he  seen  ;  Mr. 
John  Bernhardt,  a  German  gentleman  in  charge  of  a 
gold  mine  in  Ahiska,  wlio  wishes  lie  wasn't;  and  three 
(►r  four  ()ther.i  wliose  names  I  do  not  know.  The  yoimo* 
men  who  \vere  playing  whist  until  midnight  of  course 
would  )>e  in  no  condition  to  resume  the  li'anie  after 
lunch  if  they  lost  their  rest,  so  they  are  not  with  us, 
nor  are  those  w  ho  take  two  hours  at  their  toilets  ;  but 
those  of  us  who  tiavel  with  our  eyes  and  ears  wide 
open  are  here,  and  ^ve  have  no  regi'ets.  This  is  the 
(iulf  of  Georgia,  the  land  on  the  left  is  the  Island  of 
A'ancouver,  that  on  the  east  is  British  Columbia,  and 
both  shores  I'emain  distinctly  visible  for  two  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  of  our  journey,  though  the  Gulf  of 
Geoi'gia  narrows  into  Johnstone  Straits  after  we  have 
sailed  half  that  distance.  It  may  be  interesting  to 
mention,  though  it  is  no  part  of  my  intention  to  write 
either  history,  geography,  or  ethnology,  that  \"an- 
couver  gets  its  name  from  an  officer  of  the  slii[)  of  the 
great  navigator  Captain  C-ook,  avIu)  took  peaceable 
possession  of  the  island  in  the  name  of  the  English 
government  just  one  hundred  years  ago,  and  rendered 
inestimable  service  to  mariners  in  surveying  an<l  piil)- 
lishing  charts  of  the  coast ;  also  that  the  ownership  of 
the  island  of  San  Juan,  on  our  right,  was  the  subject  of 
dispute  l)etween  England  and  ourselves  as  late  as  1872, 
when,  during  Genernl  Grant's  presidency,  the  (|Uestioii 
was  refeiTed  to  the  German  Kaiser  as  arbitrator,  anil 
decided  in  our  favor. 


i- 


' 


^ 


/ 


( 


B-y-'. 


iff 


.  I      '."1 


k 


'    / 


f  'i 


¥    ) 


70 


A    //Y^J/J.\"'.s    /A'//'   /V  .I/..IS/K.I. 


\\  c  are  sailing;"  011  a 
]K'i*fec'tly  siiiootli  sea, 
witliout  a  ri ])]>!('  saAe 
tile  foamy  ^Il^l■()^\"  of 
our  |>l()ULi'liiii  ••  tliroui^li 
it  at  the  Tate  of  lifteeii 
miles  an  lioiir,  and  llie 
l<»uu'  line  of  au'itatioii 
AN'itli  wliieli  our  ])i-oj)cl- 
It'i'  marks  oni'  \\'ake. 
Stand ini;'  at  tlie  l)o\v 
(AWui-\/h.n,^/.,r.)  f,,,..^  ^^iijii-terof  an  liour 

Ave  penetrate,  either  wirli  tlie  naked  eye  or  our  ^lasses, 
a  \  ista  of*  su])ei'l>  tran(|uillity  ;  passing  to  tlie  starhoai'd 
side  we  tind  oui'selves  r-  -.,..,_  _. 
oA'er-loolvimj;  a  placid  l)ay 
encircled  by  f()i'este<l  . 
mountains  of  prodigious 
size  and  sno^v-capped  in 
the  distance  ;  crossing 
thi'ough  the  social  hall 
to  the  port  side  we 
are  in  the  midst  of  an 
archipelago  of  a  thou- 
sand islands  of  emerald 
green  and  crimson,  loom- 
ing )ip  in  the  most  fan- 
tastic forms,  some  round, 
some  ohlong,  all  clothed 
with    a     rich     carjx'ting 


(AV(/(/X'','/  />_y  Aii//ior.) 


i 


BBE 


«i>V  T<lll>l.<l«ii.l»ilitHI»fii*'i  i...««^t 


I 


/iXO  1 7.SY  TF.  S(  7':^  I'lR ) '. 


w  aniiui 


til 


toll* 


1  last 


of  vcrdiii'c,  or  as  i'a[tp('(l  in  tlu^  thick  foliage  and 
of  i\w  ('vei'-[)i'esent  fii* ;  and  tlicii  to  ^vt  oik^  f 
look  as  Nvc  luiny  along 
so  fast,  so  horribly  fast, 
^\(^  walk  hrisklv  to  the 
stern.  Avli..r(»,  oxerlook- 
ing  th(^  frotliy  water, 
lashed  into  foam  hv  our 
whecd,  Ave  find  that  tliese 
beautiful  mountains, isl- 
ands, and  forests  have 
closed  in  u[>on  us  like 
one  vast  fi'ame,  leaving 
no  trace  of  the  course 
we  have  taken  since  we 
left  Victoi'ia. 

It  is  a  shame  to  Ixi  dis- 
turl)e(l  at  sufdi  a  moment 
and  in  the  midst  of  such 
an  ever-chaniiinL!:  pano- 
rama  l)V  the  sound  of  tie 
breakfast  bell,  but  ■  le 
lueals  on  the  good  ship  Queen  arc  always  so  excellent,  so 
hot,  and  of  such  \ai'iety  that  I  nuist  go  (h  »^vn.  T  some!  imcs 
wished  thev  were  (luite  bad,  that  1  mi<ditfeelit  no  ]iar<l- 
shi[)  to  ski[)  a  few  of  them,  but,  like  every  thing  else  on 
this  o;h>i*i<>us  trip,  they  are  al)ove  criticism.  Moreover, 
this  morning  I  had  the  pleasui'e  of  meeting,  at  break- 
fast, ]\lrs.  (1.,  the  wife  of  the  jNIayor  of  Victoiia,  who 
had  joined  us  for  th<'  cruise  at  that  city.    W'e  had  be-en 


(  Koddk'd  l>y  Autlior.') 


\  I! 


i  I 


Il 


14'] ' 

f   ., 

1'    f 


p-ii 


72 


A    U'dU.l.V'S    I'Rir   />>  ALASKA. 


m^: 


iiilnniUMi  tlint  our  lirst  ,st()[)[)iiig-phu'e  jifter  leaving 
\'ict<>ria,  would  he  NanalMio,  ]>ut  at  hreakfast  we  were 
told  l)y  tlic  (•.•i[)taln  that  that  would  be  I'eserved  for  our 
retuiii,  .'«s  he  would  have  to  sto[)  there  twelve  hours  foi- 
coal,  so  ^ve  pushetl  011  through  these  wonderful  islands, 
twistiuii'  and  turninLji:  as  the  necessities  of  naviyation 
i*('(|uired,  I  su[)[)()se,  each  change  of  our  course  opening 
U[)  some  new  scene  of  enchantment  and  the  next  one 
closin<''  ir  to  view,  leavinjj;  nothinir  behind  l>ut  the  hope 
that  another  turn  Avould  bring  it  back,  and  then  (juite 
suddenly  ex|)eriencini'-  a  realization  of  our  wish.  Mak- 
ing  mysell'  comfortable   on  the  \ery  u[)[)erm()st  deck, 

clad  in  an  ordinary  cloth 
walking-dress,  ^vith  a  little 
astrakhan  jacket  over  my 
.shoulders,  I  just  sat  and 
revelled  in  this  monotony 
of  constant  change,  and  let 
my  fancy  ^vander  through  a 
score  of  delicious  tlights  of 
imagery.  Looming  up  be- 
hind these  inunense  woods, 
whii-h,  I  am  tol<1,  are  them- 
selves growing  on  hill-sides 
one  thousand  feet  above  the 
water,  1  see  miles  and  miles 
of  mountain  and  table-land 
covered  with  snow,  the 
depth  of  which  can  bea})[/re- 
{Kodak\i  by  Author.)  ^i'^^^'-^  ^^i^^i  ^he  naked  eye; 


i»ji 


BJMI 


Li. \Q  i  IS/  T/i  SC/iXJiR  J '. 


73 


T- 


thei'e  tlu'v  stand  like  the  palace  alMxlcs  of  some  li'iant 
I'ace  with  tlicir  facades  of  purest  iiiarhle,  their  tunvt.s, 
their  w  iiidows,  and  tlieir  towers  ;  my  imayiiiatioii 
takcH  me  to  Gi'eeee,  and  I  stand  ])el<>w  tlie  steps  of  the 
Aci'0[)olis;  I  am  <>nee  moi'e  in  Home,  enti'anccMl  by  the 
silent  inaL;iiiH('enee  of  the  Coliseum,  and  as  \ve  pass 
ai'onnd  the  [)()int  of  anotlier  island  and  I  get  a  glim[)se 
of  wliat  looks  to  me  like  an  avalanche  of  snow  cui'ving 
over  a  shelvinii'  rock  into  the  abvss  below,  [  think  of 
home  and  our  own  Niagara.  \  am  told  that  excitinfZ" 
scenes  [)i'oduce  different  effects  u])on  our  natures 
acconlinji;  to  the  character  of  what  is  n-anspiring  ; 
for  instance,  that  soldiers  never  speak  to  ea(di  other 
during  battle,  the  only  \(>ice  heard  being  that  of 
con)mand  ;  I  myself  in  a  })anic  at  sea  have  seen  a 
whole  crowd  [)ai'alyze(l  into  s[)eechlessness ;  at  a 
I'aili'oad  accident  or  a  fire  where  loss  of  life  is  threat- 
ened, thev  say  men  i"un  aindesslv  about  shoutinii:  to 
each  other,  but  none  of  them  doing  nuich  that  is  use- 
ful ;  and  1  observed  on  my  Alaska  excursion  a  nervous 
im[)ulse  [)roduced  by  the  excitement  of  the  voyage 
which  took  the  form  of  running  ai'ound  the  ship  an.d 
callinii"  \'our  fellow-i)assen(»:er'*s  attention  to  somethinui: 
that  could  only  be  seen  at  some  particular  spot. 
"There's  a  whale,"  says  somebody,  as  a  s[)out  of 
water  is  suddenly  thrown  ten  feet  in  the  air  and  is 
re})eated  at  regular  intervals  ;  and  instantly  the  little 
crowd  <lisperses  itself  wildly  all  over  the  ship  shouting 
"  Come  and  see  the  whale,"  ^^  hich  in  five  oi*  ten  minutes 
becomes  "  Have  you  seen  the  whale  ?  "  and  then  in  half 


i» 


1 1^' 


■i    ^' 


M 


i     A 


-   r 


^mmagjmalgmmm 


iii 


ii'fi' 


1 

!■ 

.r 

)' ' 

I  f. 


74 


/    f[7).I/./.\".S^   TAVr  TO  ALASKA. 


an  lioui",  "  I>'i(l  you  sec  the  wlmlc  ^  "  And  thus  you  are 
kt'|»t  iiit'oiincd  (if  water- falls,  seals,  porpoises,  saluion, 
eagles,  and  Indian  canoes,  till  tlie  <lay  slips  l>y  witli 
notliing  sjHH'ially  to  mark  it,  hut  \\itli  the  mind  satu- 
rated witli  the  wondei'sof  nature  just  as  it  is  with  those 
of  art  after  a  <lav  spent  at  AVrsaillts  or  tlu^  Vatieaii. 
And  vet  as  I  I'etire  T  am  told  1)\  Mr.  !>.,  tln^  (iermaii 
gentleman,  who  has  left  at  home  a  jewel  of  a  wife  and 
a  cluster  of  little  ones  wliose  pictures  he  has  sliowu  me, 
and  has  spent  a  winter  in  Alaska  (it  makes  me  shiver 
to  heju'  (►f  it),  that  to-morrow  will  he  a  much  more 
interesting  day. 

June  4th. — (\an  it  l^e  ])ossil)le  that  it  has  l)een  only 
two  (lays  since  I  left  Tacoma?  and  I  liaxtMlone  S<'attle, 
Port  Townsend,  Puget  kSound,  Victoria,  the  Gulf  of 
Georij^ia,  and  all  those  beautiful  thiui's  which,  foi'  \'our 
sake,  I  wish  with  all  my  lieart  T  could  desci'ihe,  hut 
which  \'ou  must  see  for  yourself  to  I'ealize  how  pooi'h' 
tlie  vei*\'  choicest  lanii:uaii'e  would  paint  them.  This  is 
another  lovelv  da\',  which  1  confess  is  a  complete 
surprise  and  a  most  agreeahle  one,  for  we  had  been 
cantioned  against  making  the  tri[)  so  early,  as  we  would 
undoubtedh'  strike  what  the  sailors  call  "dirtN'  weathei'.'' 
But  no,  there  is  not  a  s[)eck  of  cloud,  not  a  puff  of 
wind,  just  the  same  balmy  atmosphei'e  as  that  of  yes- 
terday, and  nothing  to  indicate  that  there  ever  is  any 
weather  in  this  reij^ion  save  the  streaks  of  cobwebby 
mist  that  here  and  there  lace  themselves  in  among  the 
trees  or  around  the  rocks  for  a  few  minutes  and  then 
dissolving  into  moisture  nnder  the  warm  sun,  disappear ; 


r 


5 

r 

r 


APPRO.  I C  'If  IXC  .  I  LA  SKA. 


/  :> 


and  ^^'<'  \\<>ulu  not  be  witlioiit  tliesr  l'<»i-  the  world,  for 

they  are  ex(|uisitel}'  [)ictiires([iie,  as  delu-atc  aiid  epluMii- 

eral  as    i\w.   smoke   of  a  ci^ar, 

and  so  sliv  that  at  tlic  l)h)\vinii!: 

of    tlie     wliistU^    tlit'\'    seem    to 

weep  themselves  to  dcatli.     We 

liave  })asse(l  thi'ouii;h  Jolinstone 

Straits   in  the   (hirkness,  \\liicli 

I    mucli   regret,   for    \   am   tohl 

the  eliannel  is  very  narrow  and 

tlie  sides  very  liigli  and  j)reei[)i- 

tons,  l)nt  it  is  some  comfort   to 

leai'ii  that  tliere  is   litth^  or  no 

difference  between  tliat  and  the 

scenery     \ve    are    now    passing 

thronixh;    vet,    wliv    cannot  it 

l)(i    so   arranged  that    tlie  slii[) 

shonld   anchor  at  ])edtime   and 

stai't    again    at    sunrise^    It    is  to(»    ]>a(l  that  the  least 

bit  of  it  slionld  l)e  missed,  and  \\'e  only  ho[)e  tliat  the 

ca[)tain  will  so  time  onr  movements  that   \V(?  niay  see 

it  comini>:  l)ack.     Tlie  featnre   of  to-da\'s   expei'ience 

is  tlie  Avonderfnl   transparency  of    the  water ;    as  we 

[)eer  over  tlie  bow  of  the  slii[)  it  seems  as  tliongli  we 

could  see  down  into  the  ocean  fatlioms  deep;  in  fact  it 

is  not  like  water  at  all,  tliere  is  notliing  I  can  compare 

it  to  ])ut  the  clearest  plate  glass  of  immense  thickness 

and  unsullied  pui'ity. 


I 


[ 


■• 


41' 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


7 


// 


S^. 


(Pr 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


12.5 


2.2 


2.0 


1.8 


U    ill  1.6 


VQ 


y] 


/. 


0^5 


'^  ,>^ 


'■^ 


d? 


/ 


/^ 


# 


\ 


9> 


■t^ .» ^•^'' 


r-i? 


w 


\ 


ti 


' 


m 


i^. 


I 


(:IIAI»M'KIJ   \'II. 

HI*]    foilllll   (l;iy  (Mil    IVolll  'r.-|<'<.||i;i   (June 

r>lli)     we    Iniiiid    oiii'scKcs,  w  Ih'ii    wc 

cm  lie  I  I'olll  (III  I'  st.'llc-l'ooiiis  1\  illL;'  at   (lie 

wli.'irf  a(    V\ty{    WcniiLrcIl,  1  lie  I'liilcd 

::^Z>>,    Stales    wai"   \«'ss('l,   /*h//(f,  bciiii;-  ncin 

Ileal-  us,  and  tliesniall   Ixiats  of   IxmIi 

ships  plyiiiLi  to  and  froexcdiaiiiiiiiL;'    (  ' 

xilifies.  Tins  place  l;('1s  its  name  fro 
'  111  Ilk 


''--■ix^^^ir^- —  '  snips  piyiiiLi;!()  aii(M!'<M'.\cliaiiiiiiii4'    ci- 

'^fW^ul'"^  \ilifies.  This  place  ^cls  its  name  from 

^•J»;^,^\/.^  '   l^.'ii'oii  W  raiiii'ell,  \\ho  was  the  Ikiissiaii  liONcnior  of 
9, •''')"',  "  /  i\laska,  when  the  Few  ri>Iiernieii  who  had  settled 

A_,    '  licre  i^'i'cw'  numerous  enough, 

alxMil-  (lie  ><'ai'  I.S.">4,  to 

di^'iiify  their  local  liahi- 

tation     w  illi     a    name  ; 

sul)se(pient  l\      it     l:'!'<'W  '         ... 

U|»  into  .'i  place  of  coii- 

sidei'ahle     conse(|iieiice 

and  |>opulaiion  l»\'  i-ea- 

soii  of  I  he  <lisc<)\('i'\   oj 

gohl     in     the    vicinity, 

Init    w  hell    t  hese  mines 

ceased  to  he  itrditahle, 

lell  into  a,  condition  o(         (/s:./.,i^u h a/.s.  ^/ar^,tni  lyauon.) 


-^  - 


it 


I 


f 


1 


I'^T 


/•vv\'/'  W'hwx (;/'././.. 


decay  wliii-li  scm'Iiis  to  |m>ss(*ss  it,  still.  Moi*'  iccciitly 
it,  lias  Im'cii  a  I'liitccl  States  iiiilitafv  |»<>st,  l>iit  e\<'ii 
the  i;'lain()iii'  of  tlie  few  l>a}<)liets  li;is  (le|)arte(i,  aii<l 
V\n{  Wraiii^cll  is  perhaps  t()-<h'iy  as  iiiiiiiN'itiiiL:,'  a 
spot  as  any  in  the  world,  sav(^  foe  the  lew  eiii'i- 
osities   ill  tlie   way   oi*    Indian    i^raves  and    totem   p()les, 


Till  KM     I'Dl.l.S     \  I'    liiU  I     UK  AMii'.l.l.. 


and  the  vei'\' «'.\eelleiit  \\ofl<  l»t'iii<^- done  l)y  the  mission- 
ai'ies  ill  the  Indian  schools.  As  I  laiid<Ml,  I  met  and 
was  presente<l  to  the  (lovenior  of  Alaska,  ((JtMieral 
Kiiapp),  wlio  was  makiiiL;*  a,  l(»iii-  of  the  coast  on  th(^ 
I*int<(,M\i\  wlio  was  di'<'sse(j  in  ihe  iinirofin  of  a  major- 


'1 


^ffj**?*^'  '■■■p'.'**?'ir 


nm 


•I 


Jl; 


m 


ii 


7.S  A  iri).]/.Ly's  TRir  /v^  Alaska. 

ji;('ii<'ral,  niiims  \\\k\  slioiildcr-sl  r;i|>s.  Tlic  nioniiiiL;'  w.is 
cloudy  niid  cliill},  with  (K'casioii.'il  sliowcrs,  v<'ry  iiiiicli 
ill  k('('])iiiu;-  witli  llic  few  dreary  .sti'ecls  and  al>aiid()n<'<l 
lulls  wlilch  iL^o  to  luako  u]>  tins  old  wcsUth  foilrcss  of 
IIk'  C/ai'.  Tilt'  fort  itself  or  siockadt^  was  an  utter 
wreck  ;    in   fact  I   would  not  have;  know  n  of    its  ex- 


*<ifti 


I ' 


If  i 


A    SIKKKl    I.N    lUKl    WU.VNliKl.l 


isteiice  IF  left  to  discover  it  for  myself,  so  I  hui-ried  on, 
picking  my  way  as  l)est  I  could  through  tlu^  muddy 
thoroughfares  to  get  a  view  of  my  first  totem  poh'.  I 
assure  \'ou  m\'  initial  exi)erience  of  a  i»romenad<!  in  an 
Alashaii  city  was  far  from  agreea.l)l(!,  and  several  times 
I  wished  myself  back  in  our  good  ship,  when^  1  could 
view  the  rocks  and  the  trees  from  afar  off,  rather  than 


immmmmik 


THll  TOT/:.]/  /V/Ji 


79 


I  ik 


n 


its  nlmriirinjil  hikI  its 


n^ 


rii 


mtM 


m 


iWiLMMfiiiMiiriii 


fto 


J  iro.i/.i.V'S  I'Kir  ro  m.aska. 


B;B  \ 


If 


n 


i 

m 

r  { 

1       '■ 

V\\ 

■  ■.'< 

:'* 

f! 

■  '• 

1    ■ 

\ 

'  -■]■  ■  r 

1 

\\m 

' 

•:f 

|i 

i^  \.. 

i>Mi'l);ii'<nis  sl.'ilc,  .'i<l()|»ls  foi-  its  (»\\ii  ]>i<»t('cl  i(»ii  ccrlaiii 
I'lilcs  . '111(1  Imw's  <»r  !l;'<>\  <'riini('iil.  Tlic  lolcin  pole  of  lli«' 
Aliisknii  IiidiiMi  is  liis  ci'csj,,  liis  faiiiily  name.  lie  is 
ji  "heal',"  or  an  ^' ra^'ic/'  or  a  "salmon,"  or  a  "crow /'or 
.'I  "  wliahi/'  and  Ix'iii!^  so  lie  owes  ccrlain  diilics  to  liis 
kin,  tli<^  cliicf  of  wliicli  is  lliat.  Ik;  may  .not,  niari'y  ji 
iiKMiihcr  of*  il  ;  and  aiiolli<'r,  lliat  any  ci'inM'  lie  coinmils 
iittaclics  a.  i'<'sj)onsil)iIil  y  lo  liis  cntii-i^  ci.'iss,  ('\<'n  as  an 
injiii y  lo  liim  is  an  injury  lo  Ids  w  liohi  stock.  In  \\u', 
one,  casci  all  may  cxpccl  (<>  siHTci',  in  tln^  otli(!i'  all  must, 
ltd  i'('ad\' lo  aAi'iijic  An<l  1  liis  t<>t(Mn-j»ol(M'Ust()m  h-ads 
1,o  cxl  ravai^aiil,  <lisplay  of  family  pi-id(^  amoiiii;  lliosi^ 
who  ai*(^  well  olT.  It  is  as  miicli  an  (nidciicc  of  pros- 
jM'ril\'  I'oi'  Ml',  licar  lo  <'r<M't  a  jiiuli  pole  siirnioiinpMl  hy 
u  j>o()r  Imilatioii  of  his  li'od-fal  her  and  ('.'irvcd  on  all 
sides  wiili  riid(M-llii»ies  of  his  ancestors,  jih  it  is  willi  ns 
(oli\('in  a  palace;  and  I  wondered  as  I  looked  at  some 
of  tlies(i  horrid  sciilptiirinij;s  \\]ielli<'r  lh<'y  did  not  he- 
^et  i\\v,  saiiK^  nei<'hl)orlv  jealoiisv  and  xiili^ai'  i'I\ali'v 
W'hicli  possess  those  wlio  esteem  tliemselves  iiioic  ci\  il- 
i/e(|.  ^Vhi',  peopl(>  must  (h^'ole  a  <j;'r(\'it  d(fal  of  ihc'w 
time  lo  car\  inu^s  of  this  character;  it  seems  a  mania  to 
\h)  sha[)ini(  a  piec(^  of  soft  pine  iiiio  their  family  name, 
just  as  it  is  wilh  otlier  peoph^  to  scribble  t  heirs  all  o\'(M' 
tlie  world,  fi'om  I  Ik;  pyramids  of  l^^i^ypt  to  Indepeii- 
d(Mice  JIall.  l^'oi*  ilie  informal  ion  of  our  Darwinian 
fi'iends,  I  may  as  well  say  that  I  was  unahh^  to  <letect 
tlici  iMoiikey  amoiiu;  any  of  the;  aiicesti'al  specimens. 
Since  tlie  Indian  has  coiiKi  into  contact  with  tin;  pah^ 
face  li(^  lias  ado[)te<l   those  of  oiii'  traits  and   customs 


Ii|    'I 


■li 


I 


rill:  i(yri:.]f  /v >/./';, 


Si 


w  liicli  Ih'  Hpprox (*s,  Miiioiig  lliciii  Ix'iiii;'  (wcliniiL^iiiL';  .'iiiy 
tliiii'j:  Ik'  li.'is  for  iiKUK'v^;  and  .'Uiollicr,  (liiiikiiiir  as 
miicli  w  hiskry  as  lio  can  !>;('<  ;  and  aHIioUL^li  there  is  ti<» 
case  (»ii  iccord,  jxM'luips,  of  one  of  (licsc  pcoplf!  sellini^ 
his  family  li'cc,  y(U,  lie  makes  minialiire  i('|ii'eseniations 
of  it  all  winter  and  sells  llicni  lo  llie  lonrists  in  tJK^ 
sujninei".  ()\\v  of  tli(is(i  I  liaAc,  which  was  ])iirc,liased 
undri'  pccnliai'  eii'ciimstaiiees  at  .hineaii  and  will  ])e 
io!d  of  liei-eafter,  and  1  j)i'oeiii'e(l  at  \\'iani:;(dl  a  \i\vy 
<^^ot(^s(pl<dy  earved  eHiiiy  <'''  an    Indian   Shaman  (me<ll- 

(•in<'  man  oi-  docloi'j,  of  whose  ('allinL;'  I  may  ha\' -ea- 

sion  (()  speak    1)\'  and    l)\.      I  N'isited  some  of  the   Imls 

I.  «  • 

in  which  thes<'  families,  whose  ci'iM'd  so  carefully  !j;'uards 
tluMT  ti(^s  of  consall^MJini!y,  I'eside,  and  tli<'i'<'  cai  he 
nol hiiii:;  worse  ill  the  slums  of  London  than  what  J  saw 
hci-c.  In  the  centi'e  of  each  was  a  spa,<'c  of  al>(»ut  a 
\aid  w  id(^  in   flu!  Iloor,  uj»on  wliich  wci'e  the   lires   foi- 

warmt  h  and  foi*  c(H)kiniLi', 
the  old)    esca[M'    for  the 
smok(^    l)eiiiL(    throUL^h 
the  roof,  where  an  aper- 
ture   was    left     for    that 
purpose.     'I\\<)  or  three 
families    were    scjiiatted 
in   a.  eir<de  around    tliis 
lire,  tli<'   men  ap[)(\'U'ing' 
to  l»e  cloth(Ml  in  the  cast- 
>!!"  wearing' ajiparel  of  the  white  mari, 
and  tlie  women  tiglitly   wraj)ped   in 
(AW,//v/m.i//m    lA  /'. /?-vW/.)    skirt  and    ]»la!d<et,  lyliii,^  full  lenjj^tli 


ill 


!    t 


I    -1 


lii 


■MfiikaMifa 


,mtamamamaak 


•11 


82 


A    nVJ/.l.\   S   TKir  TO  M.ASKA. 


W| 

i 

|M 

t 

1 

iilK)n  the  floor,  the  shoiihlers  .slightly  cleviited,  tlieir 
co[)peiy  fares  uikI  sti'jiii;lit  loiii^  linii'  j)r(»tru(liiuj^  from 
the  ])laHket  and  lit  up  1)y  the  wliltcs  of  two  stai'ing 
eyes,  for  all  the  world  like  seals  in  a  meiiau^erie — 
Imt  witli  a  hcart-i-endin^'  expi'ession  of  misery.  The 
Siwasli  woman  is  a  l)east  of  hurch'ii.  If  captured  iu 
war,  slie  ])ee()nies  a  shive  and  a  di-nd^e  to  her  captors 
for  the  rest  of  lier  life;  if  li\in^"  witli  her  own  tribe, 
she  is  none  tlie  less  a  serf  to  tlie  man  wlioni  she  calls 
her  husband,  and  who  leads  a  life  of  indolence  and  vice. 
It  is  theiefore  a  common  habit  of  these  2X)or  wretches 
to  nuirder  their  female  offspring  at  their  l)ii'th,  and 
thus  save  them  the  inheritance  of  a  life  of  toil,  shame, 
and  misery.  But  if  a  girl  escapes  i)eing  the  victim  of 
infanticide,  a  much  worse  fate  awaits  her  on  her  arrival 
at  womanhood  ;  she  is  often  then  sold  for  a  few  blankets 
to  tlie  highest  bidder,  and  here  connnences  a  life  which 
would  seem  to  justify,  if  any  thing  could,  the  nuiivler- 
ous  act  of  the  mother.  Polygamy  is  practised  among 
all  the  tribes,  and  in  some  localities  a  man  increases  his 
wives  just  as  he  would  purcliase  oxen  (n*  horses,  to  till 
the  fields ;  the  gi'eater  the  number  of  his  wives,  the 
greater  amount  of  work  he  can  accomplish.  The  odors 
in  these  huts  were  stifling,  and  the  filth  so  jdarmingly 
(huigerous  that  I  had  little  op[)ortunity  to  investigate 
tlie  )>oar<l  or  the  lodoiinii: ;  but  in  one  of  them  I  saw  an 
old  man  dying,  .'i  woman  lying  ill  with  a  fever,  a  whole 
brood  of  children  some  of  whom  were  crying,  and  a 
coii])le  of  shaggy  dogs;  all  this  life  and  sickness  and 
death  being  the  state  of  existence  of  a  single  family — 


. 


I'll 


n 


INDIAN  GRAVES. 


83 


a  hoi'rihle  [)icture  of  sciualid  iiiisci'v  and  iiiist'oi'tmie, 
which  mndc  me  feel  like  asking  with  Dante  :  ''  E  eke 
(jenV(\  ('he  pdf  nel  duol  si  f^l/ifa/""  But  the  mission- 
Mi'ies  are  at  work — in  fact,  tlie\'  are  doini;'  splendid 
service  here  and  else\Ndiere,  and  althougli  I  di<l  not 
\  isit  the  school  at  Wrangell,  owing  to  the  indisj)(>sition 
of  one  of  our  party,  I  had  a  grand  o[)[)ortunity  to  see 
one  nt^xt  day  at  Sitka,  and  shall  giveyouafidl  account 
of  my  experience  when  1  come  to  it.  There  are  some 
remarkable  typical  Indian  graves  in  the  vicinity  of 
W'^i'angell,  wdiich  are  well  worth  visitini;-;  had  the 
weather  been  brighter  I  should  have  made  an  eifoi't 
to  see  them,  and  F  certainly  should  liave  gone  anyhow 
if  there  bad  been  any  mode  of  conveyance,  but  there 
was  al)solutel>'  none.  The  totem  pole,  however,  is  the 
chief  featui'e  of  them,  serving  the  pur[)ose  of  head- 
stone and  inscri])tion.  Longfellow,  nou  will  remembei', 
has  it  thus  : 

"  Aiiil  tliey  j)aiiUe<l  on   (he 

grave  posts  -z  ."■  ^^^i^' 

Of  the  t^raves  yet   luiforgot-  .,-•'/. 

I'.ai  li     liis     iiwii      ancestral 

tot  em .  :'.    .  '^.■'•farem  y  i 

l'"a(.'li     tlie    -syinlxil     of    his       '  '  ''VynJi,'*'Qa|'^ 

household—  '  "^^-:^Mt 

Figure  of  the  hear  and  rein-  *'^*^^  'V/.v2*^-r-, 

Of    the    turtle,    naiie,    and  1  Wfi  ■ 

Perhaps  the  most  curious  tlh..^     '        f   ]  f^^^' f  '^ '' 
to  be  seen  in  the  village  is  the 


:l 


f   i 


ai 


# 


84 


/    //V).l/./.\".S    I'kir  TO  ALASKA. 


linll  (>(  an  old  stcaiiilxuil,  lii^li  mimI  dry  in  tli<^  nuiiii 
street,  \\liose  d(Md\s  nic  l)«>ard('(l  and  loofV'd  iii 
and  divid<'d  oil'  into  apailiiieiits  foi-  use  us  ji  liotel, 
and  aldiouu'li  tli(U<^  was  little  vestige  of  Inninm  life 
u]>ont  it  upon  my  visit,  1  was  told  thai  duiinijj  the 
miniiiL?  boom  np  tli(;  Sti<d<een  Uiver  it  had  heeii  a  v^eiy 
poj>ulai"  hosteliy.  I  ^vas  glad  to  get  ba(d<.  to  the  (/iiee7h, 
lier  clean  decks  and  the  ahlntions  which  the  com- 
forts of  my  stiitei'oom  aiVoi'deil,  and  gladdei"  still  to  see 
th(^  clouds  hreak   away  and   give  jn'esag(^  of  a  bright 


aft 


ernoon   and   mori'ow 


It  is  the  custom  of  the  shi[)s,  after  leaving  Fort 
AVi'angell,  to  ])roc('ed  m\xt  to  Juneau,  then  to  (/liilcat, 
Glacier  Hay,  and  Sitka,  but  we  did  not  follow^  this 
coui'se.  ('aptain  (/ari'oll,  Hnding  that  the  night  was 
going  t(»  \n'.  clear  and  the  sea  smooth,  took  a  westerly 
coui'si^  through  Sumner  Strait  (formerly  calle(l  Duke 
of  CHarence  Strait ),  ai'ound  the  south  of  IJaianoff 
Island,  and  thence;  noi'th  to  Sitka,  keeping  the  island 
on  oui"  right  and  tin;  broad  Pacific  Ocean  <ni  our  left. 
Ha\inir  announced   this  nrosxraimne  to  1 


lis  passengei's, 


we  went  to  lunch  to  chat  it  over,  where  the  captjiin 
was  voted  a  most  acc(nnmodating  host ;  and  we  natu- 
rally fell  into  a  conversation  touching  our  llrst  visit  to 
an  Alaskan  town,  during  which  I  became  indebted 
l)()th  to  Captain  C/arroll  and  many  of  the  intelligent 
jM'ople  I  met  at  his  table  for  a  good  dc^al  of  valualde 
information  i  niching  the  mannei's,  habits,  and  customs 
of  thes(;  Indians,  much  of  whicdi  was  sul)se(pi<Mu,ly 
verified  at  Sitka.     As  you  depart  from  W'rangell  you 


'nil:  sriiKiilix  Nil  UK. 


85 


<^<'t  .'i  siijH'i'l)  N'icw  of  llu!  iiioMtli  or  delta  of  tlu^  SticketM! 
IJivci'.  It  w.'iH  I'jir  ii|>  tills  strcMiu  thut  tlu^  ('jissiar  j^old 
mines  were  (lls('overe(l,  w  liich  pi-oiiiised  so  imicli  f'oi' 
the  |U'os))erltv  of  Wi'Miiu'ell,  and  ii;i'eat  faitli  still  exists 
anioii^'  tlie  j)eoj)l(^  as  to  the  future  niineial  wealth  of 
the  far  hack  counti's . 

'I'he  sun  was  now  Ix^i^innin^'  to  make  himself  fell 
in  I'eal  eainest,  and  the  atniosphei'e  (dianu'eil  to  that 
mild,  halmy  sort  wdiicli  all  wdio  liaNc  wi'itten  ahout 
Alaska,  seem  to  ai^Tee  exists  in  this  vielnit)',  hut  which 
1  had  despaii'ed  of  experieneinn".  The  cliMids  had 
di-ie(|  their  tears  and  <lepai"te(l,  hut  the  heautiful  tieeey 
\aj>or  in  straii;lit,  ti'ans- 
parent,  coh-wehhy  lines 
still  liovered  amidst  the 
tree  tops,  just  as  a  hit 
of  foi;'  \\\\\  clini:;  to  tlw 
masts  of  a  sliip  foi-  many 
miles  ;  in  some  jdaees  it 
looked  so  like  tlie  linu'ei'- 
inj4"  steam  IVom  a,  (piiek- 
moxinu;'  loeomoti\'e  tliat 
I  Ix'pin  to  ask  myself 
how  soon  the  slii'ill 
w  liisth^  and  tlie  rusliinm' 
I'acket  of  tlie  steam 
eiii^ine  would  I'esound 
along  the  hanks  of  yon- 
(h'l'  river,  freighted  with 
tile     precious     nuggets 


"'i:^^v^/^ 


'iXnfY. 


L::^_l/i 


•15.-—  — 


'IIIK    sriiKi;K.N    UKl.l'A. 


!n 


< 


IP 


i 


i 


'i 

"1 

1: 

\  I 


r'- 


i 


t 


•% 


W 
i 


ffi 


\ 


PI 


86 


.;    U'C'MA.VS   IRII'  10  ALASKA. 


now  \y\\t)i  lii<l<l<'iL  in  lln'  nioiiiil.'iiiis,  which,  iiijfoi'lii- 
liiitcly,  I  h;ivi^  ikiI  ihf  cltiirvdyiiiif,  |Mi\v<'r  In  liiid. 
Till'  Slicl<('i'ii  Ih'llii,  is  ;i  iK'nillil'ill  |iictill'i',  of  wliicli  I 
WHS  iiiial)l<^  to  i^ot  ii  Kixhilv  <'<'py,  ii>^  tho  ;itirios|)lK'i*n 
(lid    not  (•leaf  until  we  were  too  I'.ir   removed   IVoiii  it. 


i 


e. 


IRk'/l'.l/.   .//•  Sf/'KA. 


87 


foot-liills  Ik'c.mimc  iiku'c  iiilciiscly  Miic,  mikI  llic  ci'imsoii 
juid  >('ll<)\v  <»r  llic  I'ciiis  mikI  !j:i";iss('s  hi-cw  liixm'iniitlv 
j>l('tiii*('S(|ii('.  It  was  still  (lMylii;'lil,  but  \\\v  oiitliiuis  wei'e 
urowiiiL!;  I'aiiitci'  and  tlir  ail'  cliilly,  ho  that  some  of  us 
were  ai'i'aii!j;'iii!^'  lo  sjm'IkI  the  j'(MMain(l<'i'  of  tli(^  evening' 
ill  tlh'  saloon,  wIkmi,  t<>  onr  surprise,  we  discoverfMl  that 
it  was  already  ten  o'clock  dx'dtiiiie,  in  fact — i)iit  tlie 
novelty  t»f  <layliL;'lit  at  such  an  lioiir  was  so  ai^r<'eal)l(^ 
tliat.  few  (»f  us  retired.  We  did  a  niiicli  more  sensil>le 
tiling  ill  prociiriiii;'  an  a<lditional  wrap  and  staiidiiii;-  on 
the  ln'idLi'e  until  niidniu'lit,  interestinij^  ourselves  with 
t]i(^  beautiful  steering- of  theshij)  throiiL^h  tlui  thousaud 
islands  which  are  sprinkle*!  all  over  the  ocean  in  front 
of  Sitka,  w  liei*(^  we  arri\'ed  just  at  twelves  o\dock,  and 
dropped  (he  aiiclior  a  little  distances  from  the  city. 
The  Sitkaus,  it  app(\ars,  had  seen  us  for  several  liours, 
l)ut  of  course;  did  not  recooni/t^  our  ship,  as  this  was 
her  first  tri[)  to  Alaska,  and,  nioreoN'er,  W((  should  uot 
hav(^  been  <lne  tluM'e  for  several  davs  if  W(^  liad  followed 
tlie  beaten  track  of  theexcu'sion  boats.  \\^;  were  tlie 
first  lot  of  tourists  to  arrive  that  season,  and  when  at 
hist  the  truth  was  heralded  from  lious(»  to  house,  tliere 
was  intense  excit<'iuent :  first,  among'  tlu^  American 
residents,  to  whom  the  facets  of  their  counti'ymen  are 
as  welcome  as  tlie  lifed)oat  to  the  shipwrecked  sailoi* ; 
and  second,  to  tlie  rndiaiis,  who  realized  tliat  "  to- 
morrow wil'  be  mark(^t-day."  We  wei'e  soon  surrounded 
])y  all  sorts  of  canoes,  ibig-outs,  rowd)oats,  and  sail- 
boats; and  niicbiigdit  though  it  was,  the  ratives  liad 
bi'ought  with  them   their  war<'s,  and    the  white  people 


>!i. 


I 


r  H 


f 

t  i 


1    ll 


I 


f    i, 


'I 


t.M 


88 


J  ir().]/.i.\"s  iKir  ro  Alaska. 


were  willing  to  sii  um  tlie  rest  of  tlie  night  if  tliey 
could  only  get  a  iiewspa[)ei'  even  a  nioiitli  old.  Tliei'e 
was  umoiig  this  remarkable  fleet  a  little  steamer  which 
afforded  us  a  Avorld  of  fun  ;  it  was  smaller  than  any  of 
the  row-boats,  and  had  a  veritable  piece  of  common 
stove-pii)e  for  a  smoke-stack,  which  emitted  a  pyro- 
technic column  of  spai'ks  at  every  puff,  veiy  much  like 
a  Fourth-of-July  S([uil).  The  ])oor  man  who  was  cap- 
tain, engineer,  and  stoker  all  combined,  was  really  so 
ridiculed  an«l  laughed  at  from  our  deck  that  he  faced 
aliout  and  disa[)peared  in  sheer  disgust  at  our  bar- 
barous treatment.  One  day  (mly  is  aUowed  to  us  at 
Sitka,  and  we  ar(}  told  there  is  a  great  deal  to  see,  so 
an  end  to  this  midnight  dissipation  ;  we  must  to  bed, 
that  we  may  be  eai'ly  e(|uip])ed  for  to-morrow. 


i    \ 


i  I 


W- 


SITKA. 
{KodaJSd  hy  Author.) 


OIIAPTKU  MIT. 


T^? 


FlUDAV,  JiixE  (Uli.  —  Briglit  .'uid 
early  mv  wew  uj)  and  ready  to  dis- 
embark. The  ship,  at  tlie  proper 
condition  of  tlie  tide,  iiad  moved 
along  to  the  city  in  tlie  night-time, 
and  we  found  ourselves,  shortly 
after  sunrise,  lvin<>:  at  the  wharf, 
objects  of  intense  and  welcome 
curiositv  to  the  inhabitants.  From 
'^i  my    [)oint    of    view,   as   Sitka  first 

dawned  upon  me,  I  was  instantly  reminded  of  Naples 
(though  of  course  in  miniature),  as  I  saw  a  grou])  of 
houses  nestled  in  the  lap  of  the  mountainM  on  the 
brink  of  the  ocean,  while  across  the  bay  jMount  Edge- 
cond)e  bore  a  stroni*'  i'esend)lance  to  Vesnviiis.  This 
thought  I  found  Avas  common  to  all  of  my  fellow- 
])assengers  who  had  visited  the  Meditei'ranean.  ]\[ount 
Edgec<mibe  is  a  grand  s[)ecimen  of  an  extinct  volcano  ; 
and  being  always  consi<lerably  enveh)ped  in  snow,  the 
dee[)  seams  in  its  sides,  furrowed  by  the  streams  of  lava, 
which,  in  past  years—  perha[)s  ages — have  poured  from 
its  crater,  are- all  the  more  distinct  and  traceable. 
Having  seen  Vesuvius  in  full  eruption,  hurling  high  in 


P 


1 


^1 


fi'i 


i«' 


• 


MMAtf* 


\i     ' 


i  i 


I     5 


90 


y/    //VMA/A'W   7A7/'   />)  .l/.ASk.l 


\^ 


its  coiivulsixc  ilii'ocs  Inline  i'C(l-li(»t  hoiildcrs  mikI  jxuir- 
iiiL;'  iMoltini  l;i\'.'i  iVoiii  its  lips,  I  coiiM  I'oi-m  sonic  va^uo 
idc.'i  of  \\\v.  siipcrl)  ilhiiiilii.'iiioii  of  these  liiiii(li'<'(ls  of 
isl.'iiids,  tlieii' tints  .'uk!  Ii^•llls  and  sliadows,  w  lien  tli(^ 
fires  of  tiiis  iL^i'and  old  mountain  lit  U[)  IIk;  sci^ne.  Pef- 
lia,j)stliey  will  ('(,ine  a<j;ain  ;  and  If  tlieyd<»  I  en\  y  tliosii 
wlio  liaj»[)en  to  l)e  within  \ie\\'.  Steppini»  ashore,  tl»e 
first  oI)je<*ts  to  interest  ns  were  tln^  dilapidate*!  ware- 
houses at  the  end  of  the  wharf,  which  iii(licat(Ml  th.-'t  m 
\\w  olden  time  of  IJussian  <lomination  tliest;  wci'e  the 
])usy  depots  where  th<'  precious  cur«j;'oes  of  cominjj!;  .*ui(l 
goiiiH'  vessels  wvw.  store(l.  (As  early  as  1810,  iIn^  Am- 
tcrjn'isc^  one  of  John  -lacol)  Astoi''s  ships,  lay  in  the 
luir])or,  tradinji;  foi'  fui-s  w^ith  th(^  Indians.)  Just  l)eyon<l 
tlicse,  slaiidini!,'  u[>on  ;iu  eminence  which  commands  ;iii 
excellent  view  of  the  t()^vll  and  harl>oi',  is  the  IJaranolt 
Castle,  which  in  my  opinion  should  l)e  first  visited  in 
order  that  a  cleuriii'  idea,  niay  l»e  presently  oI»taine(l  of 
the  |»lac(^  while  you  ai'<'.  walking"  tln'oiinh  its  str(*ets. 
In  IK*  I'espect  does  it  resemhh^  ;i  castle;  on  iIk^coh- 
tr;uy,  its  exterioi'  is  tliat  of  a  \'ei*y  liomely  country 
liotel.  It  is  approached  hy  n  staircase,  sonicwliat 
fati^uiuLi^  in  its  ascent,  l)ut  returnin<4'  a  su[)ei'])  \iew  as 
a  handsome  reward  foi-  the  elVort.  liesides,  you  will 
then  he  standing'  upon  historic  ii'round,  ai'ound  which 
cluster  tlie  scenes  juid  incidents  of  the  past  century, 
with  wliich  \-ou  should  make  yourself  familial'  if  you 
Lope  to  uppreciate  wh.ut  you  will  see  when  )ou  minglt; 
with  the  inhabitants.  Like  the  island  upon  wliicdi  it 
is  locatecl,  the  castle  takes  its  name  from  that  old  mar- 


)ll 


t 


riifieaaiiHiM 


9- 


l    W'OMAWS   TKir  IV  ALASKA. 


tlnet,  t]i(^  Riis.sinii  (iovc^i'iior  IJaiviJioll',  w  li<>,  in  tluM-arly 
|»,-u't  of  \\w  (rentiii'v,  fi'oHli  Iroiii  his  f'.'imili.'ii'it)'  with 
the  liol'I'ol'S  of  Si!)('l'i}Ul  life,  ruled  llic  people  wilji  ;i 
lyraiiiiy  that  heu^aii  with  the  kiioiit  and  <  ii(h'<l  with  tlie 
ax(;.  A.ithoiigh  il  had  \)vv\\  \isit(Ml  hy  the  I{ussiaIl^  as 
early  as  1741,  not  on(^  <d*  tlie  inti'cpid  Miiseo\it(*s  who 
lande<l  w(ii'(*  left  to  tell  th(^  tah^  of  captmc  and  i'xecii- 
tion  l)y  tlie  iiativi!  Indian  Sitkans.  A^ain,  in  17*.)*.)  or 
iSOd,  a  party,  helii^inu;"  themselves  sti'oni^  (*noiiu;h  to 
maintain  theii' foothold,  settled  near  hcM'e  witli  a  \ie\v  of 
remain inu',  and  havinii;  i)la(;ed  themseKcs  iind(»rthe  pro- 
tection of  the  Arehaiiii;<'l  (Jal)i'iel,  inst(\'ul  of  stockades 
and  liiinpowdtM',  were  in  their  turn  also  massacM'ed  and 
their  houses  destroyed  hy  lire.  This  hi-ought  P>aiauotf 
to  the  spot,  who  at  once  <M'ected  (Mthei-  th<^  ])res(Mit  or 
allot  her  castle,  withdr<'\\'  the  town  from  tlu^  jn'otectiuj^ 
care  of  (rabriel  and  turne<l  il  ov(^r  to  tli(^  Arcliaii<i;el 
Michael.  Duriiiii;  llu^  latter^  protectorate,  it  has  dom^ 
better,  yet  it  may  not  l>e  out  of  jjlace  to  nuMitioii 
tlui  fact  that  the  s|»iritual  Laniard ianshij)  lias  l)eeii  con- 
tinually supplemented  ]>y  Russian  bayonets  and  the 
moral  and  linaiicial,  to  say  nothing"  of  tlu^  ])liysical, 
power  of  th(^  Shelikolf  niono]>oly  and  the  Iludsou  Bay 
Company,  who  NNcre  tli<'  lessees  of  the  Uussiaii  Gov- 
ei'iiment  and  controlled  not  only  tlu^  trader  but  tlu^ 
ollicials  of  th(!  Archipela^'o.  Ft  will  be  diflicult  to 
work  the  ima<i;i nation  up  to  tlu-  point  of  Ixdieving 
that  this  now  desolate  old  ])alace  was  once  tlu^  home 
of  tlu'  nobility  and  the  scene  of  festivities  given  Avitli 
Imperial    sanction    and    ceremony;    but    such    is    the 


M 


IV 


111 


///.S7V>A7r  /.'. /A"J.\VV7''  (  .IS /'/,/■:. 


93 


r;i('(  Im'I'c  |»iiii('('>  .'111(1  j)i'iiK'('ss<'S  (»!'  lli(!  1>1(M»(1  i(>\  .*il 
li,'i.\<'  c'ltcii  tlicii'  c'lA  i.'iic,  (|ii;in'<'(i  llicir  nfK/hk<i^  hikI 
iiicMsiircd  a  iiiiiiiM'i,  siiiroiiii  '('(1  l)y  a  court  IVcsli  IVoni 
llic  j»alac<'s  of  St.  IN'tcrshiii'o- and  Moscow,  Tlic  u-ov- 
ci'iioi'sliip  of  tliis  cxfi-ciiu^  wcslci'ii  jiorlioii  of  "all  tlie 
Russias'''  was  a  reward  of  liin'li  value,  juid  smureediiig 
l>;ii'aiion'  came  a,  miiid»er  of  I  lie  iiohllil y,  ejicli  in  1  iii'U  pi'o- 
vid<'d  with  1  lie  rcACiiiie  and  retinue  necessai'y  lo  a  proper 
iiiaiiitenanc(5  of  llie  diiiiiity  (»f  his  <»|]ic<',  wliicdi  appears 
lo  lia\('  (rhielly  consisted  in  luxurious  and  e\'ti';iv.'ii^;uit 
enterlainnient  ujxiii  any  pretext  that  shoidd  wafi'ant 
it,  iiotaMy  the  arrival  of  a.  foi'eii;ii  war  xcssel,  or  even 
,*i  nierchanlnian.  I  !ia\'e  had  oppoi'l  unity  to  ol»sej'\'(^ 
how  devoted  these  Kiissiaii  iiohles  ai'c  to  the  convixial 
side  of  life,  lor  I  liaxc  heeii  led  to  the  l>aii( jiiet-rooiii 
1)\'  <»ne  of  tli<^  iiiost  reiiownefl  of  her  jolU'  Adinir.'ils, 
and  liaA  e  sat  at  taMe  near  one  of  her  (irand  I)uk(s 
whose  niannei*  indicated  that  for  liini  tlu'i'e  was  l)ut<>ne 
lioui'  in  lif<',  and  that  IIk^  jU'i^senl  one  ;  so  that  it  was 
not  dilliciilt  forme  to  jticture  the  avidity  with  which 
in  <lre.'iiy  Sitha,  tln^y  accepted  any  incident  which 
would  warrant  tluMii  in  throwing,'  o[>en  the  doois  of  tlie 
castle  hall-room. 

It  was  in  this  very  lious(^  that  Lady  l^'i-aiiklin, 
twenty  years  a<j:(»  spent  three  weeks  of  her  ajj^ed  life, 
(for  she  was  then  eijj^lity  yeai's  of  au^e,)  in  tlu^  hop(3 
that  she  still  iniLdit  iind  soiiu^  trace,  dead  or  aJive, 
of  liei'  adventurous  hushand.  Sir  John.  It  was  hc^i'e 
that  Mr.  William  II.  Seward,  after  retiriniz;  fi'om  ofHee 
as  Seci'etary  of  State,  resided    foi*  sev^eral  days,  on  his 


\\ 


I     J : 


m-  \A 


■Hi 


'  fii. 


s 

' 

h 

i 

i 

!>   II 


i  i 


I 


■ii 


I 


04 


./    ir().l/.l.\    S    I'Kir   l\)  ALASKA. 


trij)  ((>  s(m;  with    liis  own   <'y<'s  llir   iiniiKMisc  t<M'i'itnry 
\\lii(r]i    li.id    Im'cii    |n'a<*(^'i])ly  .-KMiuircd    for   liis  comiti'v- 


il 


iiuMi  lliroiiijr 


li  lli{^  Ha_<j;'.'icity  of  liiiiisc-Jf 
<'iii<l  S<Miat<)i'  ( 'li.'ii'Ics  SumiK'i',  and 
j>ai(l    for  al    (Ik^  rat(^   of  two  ctMits 


I 


KM'   aci'c 


ll 


n'oiiji' 


ll    til 


ic    jx'i'Hoiial   ex 


ci'tions  of  my  old  rriciid,  (iciicral 
K.  I*,  liaiiks,  who  was  llicii  (l.SOT), 
as  li(^  is  now,  a  iiiciiilu'r  of  CoiiirresK. 


It 


ll 


was    li'oin    iiicsc    \<']'y    windows 


lliat  was  wirncsscd  in  the  I'all  of 
ISCtT  a  paiicant  of  n'lcat  sii^nilicancc, 
to  <'i\  ili/atioii,   tlionj^li  pci'liaps  not 


\\  il.l.l  AM    II.    SI'.U  AKIi. 


as   snlciM 


lid 


»tl 


IS    otn<'!'S    o| 


liillcl 


I  less 


(•ons(Mjn(Mi(*('.      Ill  llic  hay  on  the  artcniooii  of  ( )ctol)('i' 
tlic!  IStli  la>'  at  aiiclioi'  llirec  AiiK'ricaii  war  sliij)s:    tim 

led 


(>s!<}p(<\^\\w  lk(S(Uii,\\\\A  I  lie  'fdtneHtonm,  coniniaiK 
i'('s)M'ctiv(*ly  l)y  ('a[)taiiis  lOniinons,  Hradl'fU'd,  and 
McI  )oiiL!;all,  cacli  vessel  ( I i-csscd  in  (lie  national  eoloi's, 
while  (he  Itiissiaii  soldieis,  eiti/<*ns,  and  Indians  of 
Sitka,  which  was  then,  as  it  is  now,  (Ik^  capital  of 
Alaska,  had  assenil>le(l  ii|>on  the.  open  s[>ac(^  at  our 
feet,  cari'vinii;  aloft  the  eaii'les  of  the  (-/ar.  Ai  a  s^iveii 
siLi;nal,  tli<^  Ignited  States  navy  lired  a  national  salutes 
in  honoi"  of  the  Russian  flair;,  which  was  then  lowered 
from  the  stalf  upon  tlu^  castle,  ami  this  salv(>  beinu^ 
responded  to  hy  the  Russian  t^arrison  in  <  inplinient 
to  ours,  *:\w  stai's  and  sti'i[)es  were  hoisted  U\  the  p(\'ik 
amidst  the  wild  liu//as  of  the  assembled  peoj>le.  '^riius, 
fi\e  hiindi'ed  and  eiii:ht\  thousand  s(|uare  miles  of  the 


1 


s/vv>'r  (U-  ri<i\ci:ss  MAKsorrohi'. 


95 


(iJll'tllV  ^lll'lncc  jKlssccl  IVniii  the  (•(•ill  ml  of  tlir  |ii(»sl 
(l<'SjK>li«'  iiioiiui'  ':  nil  \\\v  <jil<'l»<'  iiilo  tli<-  li.'iiids  of  (he 
most  lilx'i'ul  of  iikmIcI'Ii  L;()\('i'mii<Mils ;  tliiis  llir  ixKist 
of  (lie  Kiii;lisliiM;iii,  llinl  tlic  siiii  iicxci"  scis  on  lici' 
Maj<'sly's  (lomiiiioiis,  ccjiscmI  to  Itc  witlioiil  pai-Mllcl 
.'iikI  (liUM  tlic  |i('ac('jil)l('  siii'I'cikIci'  jiikI  jM»a('eal)l('  acijiii- 
silloii  of  NJist  tei'ritoi'V  willioiit  resort  toai'iiis  i'liiiiislM'd 
ail  illuHti'atioii  wliicli  should  not  only  coimiiciKl  itself 
to  all  iii.'iiikiiid,  Imt.  lielp  <o  iiiaiigui'ate  with  iheeoiii- 
iiiLi"  ceiitiii'y  a  imivei'sal  Mcec^ptaiu'e  of  t  h(^  new  icli- 
i^'ioM,  that,  killiiiL!;  i>^  iimi'der  and  wmi*  is  harharisiii :  for 
if  statesnieii  hefe  ;iiid  ;d)l'o.'i(l  li.'iA c  iio  l)ett(M'  o<'('U[»a- 
tioii,  for  instance,  tJiaii  faiiniiiL;'  a  llaiiie  of  ii'rital)ilit  y 
('oneerniiiL;'  the  ownership  of  tlu^  uiifnrtiinatc^  seal,  who 
is  hofli  only  to  l»e  elilhhed  to  (U^'lt,h,  let  it  \)(\  left  to 
the  woiiKMi,  the  i;;!'av(^s  (»f  whosc^  soldiei*  liiisl)ands, 
bi'others,  niid  sons,  they  [HM'iodically  deeorat(^  with 
llowei's,  a!i<l  l(^t  it  he  seen  wlietlier  tliey  are  not  ])i'a\'e 
enouii'li  to  yield  a  litth^  (Jiii.Notie  diiinitN'  and  .-ill  the 
si\'iiskin  cost  miles  they  ever  had,  or  hope  for,  rather 
tlian  aii;ain  to  liear  th(;  wail  of  wofid  war.  We  ai*e 
no  less  patriotic  than  our  li(^i((^  lor<ls,  (piit(^  as  comhat- 
ive  I  think,  Miid  just  as  litth;  given  to  surrench^ring 
when  we  helievt^  wt^  are  in  the  right;  hut  wc  f<'el  like 
the  Ix'.'Uitiful  Princess  MaksoutotV,  who  sat  her(^  at  tliis 
window  weeping  bitter  tears  as  the  ensign  of  lier  reg;d 
master  was  l(>w^ered  for  tlu;  last  time;  tliose  teais  did 
(iteiiial  credit  to  hei*  patriotism,  and  were  d()ul>tless  a 
proud  SMtisfaction  and  a  coml'oi't  to  liei-;  hut  wliat  of 
the  tears  sjie  would  have  slied  it',  instead  of  seeiuij:  her 


'I 


in 


I.    \ ' 


1^! 


I    fi 


I    I 


4y 


i/, 


I    IIO.l/.I.V'S    IKir   /V>  ALASKA. 


liiisl);iii(l  loiiii.'illv  vicM  u|>  Ilis  ;iiilJi()r-il  \'  1()  ,'i  IViciKlly 
li.'ifioii,  lie  lind  IxM'ii  l)ini|M|i(,  lionn'  1<>  Ikm-  (lie  dcud  vlo 
iiiii  of  .•!  I)1(km|v  sh'il'c^  |()  ;ill;i,iii  (lie  sjiiiKf  ohjiM-i. 

As  I    looked   (»iii  (>\('i'   (Ills  placid    ])a.y  aci-oss  to  Ml,. 
Edi;'(MMUMl)(',  and  tliciicci  I'ai'  olT  to  tlici  wcstiMii  liori/oii. 


I,IN(  iil.N    bXKLlil,   bllKA. 


where  iIk'  i*aeilie  Ocraii  dips  down  lo  tlu'  coast  of 
I^asteni  Asia,  (lie  ( lioii^lit,  caiin;  (o  me  (hat  ove?'  Ilie!*(^ 
was  (he  Kii't  liplace,  (he  cfadle,  the  yoiilli,  and  (he  iiiaii- 
liood  of  cI\ili/a(ioii,  and  (liaiil  iiad  joiii'iieye*!  and  (i'a\- 
elled  w(^st\vai(l  and  wi^stwai'd,  \\(\-i!"ie(l  at  times  almost 
l)u(  s]»riiigini2;  up  au;ain  and  sti'iking  viu^oi'oiis 


tod< 


esnaii' 


1 
l)h)ws,  sometimes  in  tlio  name  of  i-<'li<don,  bui  oft(uiei' 


i 


I  III:    ri(rrh'l:S(UI:    I.VDI.I.VS. 


97 


foi*  (((iKjiK'sl  oiilv,  until  .'ifhi'  a^fs  li.id  ('la|>s<'(l  il,  i'miiitl 
its  \N  M  y  lo  (lie.  wcsh'iii  li('iiiis|>li('i(',.iiMl  in  (In-  couisc  nt' 
(inn^  ('iu'ii'('l(Ml  (Ini  j^lolxi;  ;in<l  llinl.  it  \v;is  n<>\\  lici'c  on 
t lie  conlliics  of  cai't 11  l<»okin^'  tow.-irds  iIki  lionn;  of  its 
crcu!  ion.  I  <-onI(l  not  but,  coiiti'.'ist  tin'  j<>}'<>iis,  licaltli- 
fiil  lioui',  wliicli  was  ours  Ikmh;  at,  tlic  cndiiij^,  with  I  lie 
(lnnL;('on-lif<^  of  scrfdfMn  o\ri-  tlicrif  where  it  all  he^aii. 
"  ^^'s,  Madame,''  said  rFudi^i^  (^alkiiis,  when  with  some 
enthusiasm  I  L;;a\e  liini  tl;e  IxMieUt  of  tliis  idea  one 
cNcniiiL;'  at  Taeoma,  "the  tail  is  now  w'aLiL!,'iMi;*  tluMloji;.'" 
hesceiidini;'  from  the  liai-anolT  ('astle  and  walkini;' 
n|>  tJH'  main  street,  of  the  town,  whicdi  was  really  eh'an 
and  nieedo<d<in!j; — such  ;i  eont  rasi  t(»  I'^oi't  \\  ranLi'ell, 
we  iM'Xt  Keeame  inleiisely  intereste(l  in  tlu^  Siwash  In- 
<lians,  who  were  most    |»iet  ures(|nely  uI'oujmmI  n[)on  the 

jtoreh    of  th(^   n-ovennnent- 
buildiiiLT,   olTeriuL:;   foi'  sah- 
llieii'     stock     of     Itaskets, 
.        spoons,      ln'jie(dets,     I'iniis, 
I*        miniat  ur*'  totem  poles,  and 


(A:;/„//.//'V  J//.y  M.  J>.   luaJ,.) 


m 


fiii 


r 


rir 


1     I. 


U,  '    '■> 


h»  i 


1  ! 

t 


,j,S 


/  iro.i/.i.v's  I  Kir  lo  Alaska. 


all  kinds  nf  kiiick-kiin<*ks.  'IMic  luiccs  asked  \\vxi\ 
('\<iil)i(aiil  ill  tile  cxii'iMiic,  :iiid  tlicv  srciiiiMl  to  liav« 
a  kind  of  I  rades-iininn  iindt'i'stainiiiin"  anions"  lluMii- 
srU'cs  (liat,  liaA'iiiL;'  once  IIxcmI  a  pricr  llicy  woidd 
adIn'iH'  to  i(,  t<»  tlic  last.  TIicn  kimw  onK  t  \\<»  divisinuK 
of  money  :  a  "  ))il/'  wliieli  is  t\v<'l\e  and  a  luilf  ('(Mits, 
l)iit  |>ayal>le  with  a  dime;  and  a  "  doll;i/'  dollar. 
Wlietlief  tliey  l»ase  the  jU'iee  iijtoii  the  .'inioiint  of 
lalxn*  expended  on  eavli  artieh^  or  whether  upon  the 
altracli'.eness  of  it;  I  eoiijd  not;  tell,  Imt  it  <'ertainly  was 
not  !'ejj^iilate(l  \\\  t  he  supply  and  demand;  lor  instaiiee, 
you  would  see  a  do/eii  l>ask<'ts  olTered  1)\  a  do/en 
Indians,  each  askinii;  three  dollars  as  the  price,  whereas 
HI  eoiild  lniy  for  a  <lollar  some  pretti<'r  one  of  which 


V( 

tl 


lere  was  onl\'  a.  s 


iiiLrh'  sj 


M'cimen. 


'^riie  Indian  scpiaws  appeared  much  superior  to  those 
at,  \\'ranL:<'ll,  and  niu<di  l»et t<'r  dress<'d,  tlioiiiih  this  I  dis- 
co\'ere(l  was  owiiii;;  in  a  yi'eat  measure  to  the  lioli(l;i\ 
which  tln'V  take  upon  the  arrival  of  a  slii|>,  their  attire 


CO 


CO 


nsist  iiiiH"  of  a  full  supply  of  female  cosfiiine,  litliii<i;  of 
iirse  (iiiite  loosely,  of  the  most  i;aud\'  colors  t  hat  could 
he  sel(M'ted,  briij^ht  re(l,  o-reeii,  and  ])lue  j)re(loniinatiiiii;, 
while  tlu'ir  ears  and  wrists  were  ornamented  with  a 
ij!:i'eat  ))rofusion  of  home-made,  and  in  fact  very  well 
ma<le,  L»"old  and      iUcr  j«'welr\  ;   tlu^  feet  of  some  were 


»tl 


)are,  oMK'In  wore  coarse 


l)liie  worsted   stockimrs,  whll 


}i    lew    luxuria 


ited 


in   <'lianiois 


-leatl 


ler    moccasins;     tl 


le 


hair  was  invariahlv  brushed  or  oiled  sinootliK  to  the 
liead  and  [>lait(Ml  in  the  ])ack  ;  and  t»acli  fiu^ui'e,  young 
or  old,  male  oi'    female,  was    the  owikm"   of  a    )>lanket. 


h 


I  III:   SliKA   L\'J)IA\S. 


(t( 


9l> 


wliicli  sceiiK'd  as  iiidlsjM'iisaljle  w'A  lIu'  full  to  tin;  ( Jliiiia- 

iiiaii,  <>i'  tlic  iiiiil)i'('lla  to  tli<^  I'JiL^lisliiiiaiu  2Ui(l  WUH  iiia<l<) 

to    (jo    tli«'   service  <»r 

IkmmI,     ja<'Uet,     skirt, 

eiisliioii,     (U'     la[>-ruL:", 

just    as    tlie    (K'casioii 

r«M[uire(l  ;  i;('iu'i"ally  It 

Iiuii;;'  down    fioiii    (ht» 

top  of  t  1m'  liead,  often 

was  thi'owii   ON  (•!•  tlie 

sliollldei's,     tlie     head      ^ 

iM'iiii;'    tiiil)aiie(l    in    a 

liii;lily  -eohn'cfl    liaiid- 

kei'eliief ;    Imt   in   the 

suiisliine,   as   tliey  sat 

sellini;'  tlieir  wai'es,  it 

was    mostly    hi'ou^lit 

ai'ound    the   liips  and 

I'oKhMl    ael'oss   tlie   lap.  {Kodah'd hy  Miss  M.  O.JuHi/i.) 

It  is  wonderful  wliat  a  superstili(»us  aversion  they 
have  to  the  eaniei'a.  When  we  tried  oiii*  Kodaks 
on  tlieni  they  instantly  eii\-eloped  t iieinseUcs  in  theii* 
blankets,  and  woidd  noi  iuconci'  until  some  old  crone 
wlio  liad  an  eye  tliroUL;h  a  l»ole  of  lier  hood  gave  tin; 
signal.  Tliis  wus  in  fact  so  mysterious  tliat  we  tried 
to  I'eason  witli  thtMii,  showed  tlieni  pictures  of  oui'- 
selves,  oifei'ed  to  send  tlieni  tlieir  likenesses  by  tlie 
next  boat,  but  all  to  no  j»urpos(^,  and  we  \vere  al)out 
to  ijjive  it  up,  when  at  tli«'  suijfLCestion  of  one  of 
"tlie  oldest  inliubitauts"  we  held  aloft  a  sihci-  dollar. 


i 


W 


,1 


% 


I 


1. 


(       ! 


loo 


./    IIDA/AX'S   IKir  ro  ALASKA, 


1  % 


I 


-m 


Iiislniill>   IIk'It  whs  .'t  cliaiii^r.     'IMu*  sii|M'i's(irnui  sliii|»Iy 
(•(Hisislcd    ill   I  In*  iM-Iicf  tliut    il    \\;is   ii<»l   lirallli\    l<»  <li> 

;iiiy    I  hint;'    \villnnil     Im-Iiilc 
^^^ijh'"  |>2ii(l    r<*i' i(,  n  sii|i(>rslili(>ii 

.'■^||d^^^HF        A  W  llicll  l<>      jM'I'V.'ulc 

i'if^^^H^T      fli^  wjiiliM's,    mikI    |M»r(('is,  mikI 

('liaiiil>cnii;ii<ls,  mikI  iIimI 
class  (>r  jM'oplc  ,'ill  <»\ri'  t  Im' 
world.  Ii;<l('('(l  Ainci'ic.'iii 
(•i\ili/al i(»ii  is  doiiio' a j^rcat 
(Ic.mI  for  the  Siw.'isli.  1 1 
i'«'iiiiii<l('(l  me  of  I  lie  sloi'v 
t<»l(l  inc.  l)y  .'111  ollicri'  wlio 
"^  VeI^b  iSHi^^^^r  accoiiip.'iiiicd     (  \»iiiino<loi-c 

I  r    *■       c  ^^^^  Perry's     rxpcdii  Ion      in 

.iMpiili,  (o  tlu'  cIVccI,  (li;it 
wlicii  llicy  lii'sl  airi\('(l 
llicy  could  <lro[>  a  iiv<'-dol- 
lar  i;'old  jticci^  in  tlic  strccl.  and  liiid  it  llici't^  tlio  next. 
da>',  because  no  man  hut.  (lie  <)\\iicr  would  dafe  to  lift  it; 
hut  in  a  niontli  or  Iwo  tln^  li'i-owth  of  American  civiliza-, 
lion  li.'id  Im'cii  so  ra|>id  tliat,  at  (lie  sound  of  (In^  fail  of 
a  (luard'i-,  a  do/en  Japs   would   iiiadh   rush  at  i(,  (o  |»ut 


\k\Hlah\{  h  Mis.i  M.  /'.  /.',-,/<//.) 


foot  iijxn!  i(,  each  roundly  [>rot(^s(in^'  that  it  was  his. 

All  aloiiij^  the  main  str(M't  (►!:  Sitka  tln^  Iiulian  women 
were  asseml)le(l  in  li(th^  i;'ron[»s  of  foiirand  iivt^  sijuatted 
in  tlu^  shadows  of  the  hoiist^s,  admii'ahly  count(M'l'eiting 
with  theii*  oli\'e  skins,  bright  Idaek  eyes,  and  showy 
colors  th(^  Italian  peasants  on  the  Hte])s  of  tlit;  churches 
in  Home.     Some  of  these  women  indulue  in  the  hoirid 


y 


rilli  SI  IK  A   l.\l>/,LVS. 


lOI 


i 


L 


<*uh(<uii,  now    rjK.iii^'  iiil(»  disuse  I  miii  (rind  to  Icai'ii,  of 

Wi'Miiiii:;  ji  woodni   or   l>oii«'  <»i'  ivoiy  button  iiiidei"  the 

lower     lip,     c.'dh'd     the 

lahrct,     tlic     sliutds     of 

w'hicli    |»asM«'s  thi'oii^li  a 

•slit,  niudc  ill  the  llcsli  foi* 

lliis  pnr  '>s<'  ;    it    iih'.-uis 

iiotliiiiij;  I'Ut  ndoriiMK'iit, 

and     nssuincs     diiV(M*<'Mt 

shapes  and  si/cs,  a<'<'o!'d- 

iiiiL^  to   t  li<^   taste  of    I  li(« 

weai'er.     < )!'  t  Ills  custom 

I    saw    a    n'ood    deal    at 

\7'«'aiii4'en,   tliouu'li   1  did 

Hot    see  tiiere  what   was 

xcrv       coiispicMoiis       ill 

Sitka,  namely,  the  use  of  t  he  powder  cni- 

hellislmn'iit,  in  w  lii<'h  theSitkaii  !iiaid(Mis 

ai<.  very  [.rorM-icnt,  handling-  tJie  suhjcvt  ^^^'''^''^■'''^•'' ^^'" '''' ^'- ^'"^^^^^ 

with  a  delicacy  of  touch  Avliicli    was  (piit(^  remarkable, 

>»a\  ('    tiiat   the  ln'ow'iid)eri-y  tones  of  tli<'   thi'oat,   n<u*k, 

arms,  and    hands    remained   in    strong-  contrast  to   tlie 

pearly  features. 

Tjeavini^  t]ies(^  Indian  men  and  women,  who  were 
out  in  their  best  <'lot^  s  and  preMi(!st  adornments 
foi-  the  special  benelit  of  the  tourists,  w(^  now 
ci'oss  tlu;  pai'ade  i4'roun(l  in  company  with  Mr, 
HiM'nhart-  and  the  commandiiiL!;  ollicei'  of  i'le  station, 
for  a  visit  to  tln^  rancherie,  tli<^  home  of  tliese  same 
Siwash.      Walk  sh)wlv,  ticad   carefully,  talk   loudly  so 


} 


h4 


11 


I 


1. 1 


'yr- 


fisJ' 


ti. 


k'^i 


% 


\ 


run  RAX  CI  1 1:  Kin 


103 


us  to  u'ive  notice  of  \(»iii'  coiiiiu!'-,  <»r  send  one  of  your 
iKirtv  ahead   to   liive  notice,  for   \'on  are  about  to  ex- 
[)erien('e  a    most   ]'e\'olt- 
ing,     almost     sickening  1 
siglit,  and  tlieir  noi'mal  \ 
condition      in     costume 
))eing  l)ad  (Miougli,    U)U 
<lon't  care   aKout   l)eing 
met  by  any  sni'- 
prises  AvJiicli  may 
]>i*o\'e  end)ai'i'ass- 
ing.     Kn  jKis.sdiif 
i    may   say   that 
althougli   in   our 
case     every    pre- 
caution ^va^  taken 

to  avoid  any  sliock  to  oni'  sense  of  tlie  conventional 
proprieti-'s.  we  ultimately  found  oui'selves  in  conversa- 
tion with  an  Indian  [»atriarc]i  on  tlie  threshold  of  his 
own  wigwam,  di-essed  in  a  night-gown,  and,  to  tell  yon 
the  truth,  not  nuich  of  a  niglit-gown,  after  all.  The 
ranclierie  is  u  i'(>w  of  detaclied  one-storv  houses  with 
gal)le  I'oofs,  built  along  the  watei''s  rocky  edge  at  an 
elevation  of  four  or  live  feet  above  the  ii'round,  each 
one  approached  by  its  separate  flight  of  ])oar(l  ste[)s. 
The  shore  in  theii'  front  is  strewn  confusedh'  with 
canoes,  old  bai'rels,  tin  cans,  clothes-lines,  strings  of  fish 
ill  all  stages  of  the  drying  process,  broken  utensils,  l)ed- 
ding  set  out  to  air,  dead  dogs,  decaying  hsh  and  vege- 
tables,  and    such    otlier   thinu's    as    tend    to    excite    the 

7  O 


f  '  '1 


I 


I-  :-"(^'^-  ■ 


^■••'iir- 


I 


104 


J    //'7^J/J.\'\   /-A'//'   /(^  ALASKA. 


olfactories  (oil-factories,  one  of  oiir  party  suggested)  ; 
— tlie  exterior  of  I  In*  houses  is  not  so  l)a(l,  in  fact  I 
(loiil»l  whetlier  tlic  lislieniK  n  on  (he  North  ^\th*intie 
coast  lia^e  any  l)etter,  yet  this  makes  tlu^  tilth  of  tlie 
inliahitants  and  tlieii-  niisei"al>le  nietliods  tlie  jnore  ob- 
serval)l(^  Ea(di  faniilv  seems  to  ha\'e  as  man\'  doijjs  as 
ciiildren  ;  the   foi-mer  aie  m   mangy,  mongrel   l>reed   of 


\m 


/(.* 


i  t 


\ 


'i> 


I^^Hqaimaux,  and  the  latter,  poor  tilings,  are,  tor  the 
most  ])art,  hlind,  defoi'med  in  lind),  ci'ip))led,  and  nearly 
all  tainted  with  marks  of  sci'ofida.  'V\w  al)h'd)odied 
men  were  off  on  their  fishing  expeditions,  or  em[)loyed 
at  the  salmon  cannei'ies  along  the  coast;  the  young 
s(juawsran  around  l)are-fo()t<'<l  an<l  haredt'gged,  an<l  the 
older  pe()[)le  of  both  sexes  seemed  to  have  nothing  to 
do  but  sit  around  tlie  lire. 

AVe  went  fii'st  t(>  tln^  house*  of  tlie  far-famed  and  very 
rich  Vrincess  Thoni,  who  is  sai<l  to  be  worth  ."jslOOjlinO 


i 


I 


^BBBBSBBSB 


^T^l 


/^Av.\'r/';.s\  /7A>.i/. 


loc; 


I 


o 


(tliouu'li  we  s;i\V  little  evidence  <>{'  aii\'  such  liixiii'ioiis 
wealtli),  which  she  lias  acMjuired  thi'oiiuli  shi'e\v<l  ti'ad- 
iiigwitli  her  own  race  and  tlie  white  folk.  Ilei- adopted 
name  is  Kinaline  l^al<ei\  and  she  ivsidcs  at  house  nuin- 
]>er  0,7<><>  of  the  i-ancherie.  Durini^  the  adniinstratioii  of 
('aptain  IJeardslee,  of  the  V.  S.  Nav\ ,  in  IS7i>  all  the 
houses  of  the  Indians  were  nund)ered  ;  an<l  i'oi'sonie  very 
good  icason  no  tloul)t,  whicli  was  not  e.\j>lained  tome,  to 
each  number  ai"<'  a(hle(l  t  wo  cyphers,  so  tliat  the  home  of 
the  Princess  was  in  realit\  No.  (57,  thouixh  the  four  Hi:- 
ui'es  o\ei'  the  door  read  <>,7^Hl.  llcr  Koyal  nii^hness  was 
liardly  ready  to  receive  at  thisearly  hour  of  the  morninu", 
as  was  evidencecl  l»y  hei' l)ar«^  feet,  \vhi(di  we  aftei'wards 
saw  daintih'  sIkmI  asshe  sat  with  hersuhjeets  on  th«'  steps 
of  the  ( io\-einment  House,  l)ut  they  w crc^  as  clean  as 
thoUL!li    i'.isl  from  the  llussian  l>ath  ai'ound   the  corner, 

and  she  weIcome(l  us  with  the  same 
ol)se(pnous  politeness  with 
which   the  Chatham  Street 
el<»thiei-  would  ask  "  Don't 
\ou  want  to  1)U\  a  nice 
coat  V   She  is  veiy 
fat,   of  course   not 
very  fair,  and  much 
over      fort\,     and 
when    we    entei'ed 
the   palace   offered 
us  chairs  wliih^  she 
*-•-*  went   for  the  arti- 

{AWiUu//>yMiss  J/.  Z).  hcach:)  "^ 


;  '    \ 


ik 


'"^rf 


U 

...:> 

m 


ii 


I 


;  .      » 


|i    !|i 


iftlH 


i(>^ 


/    /IV^J/J.\'.S    7/v7/'   /(>     U.ISKA. 


;iii<l  rtrtii,  wliicli  slic  (Icsii-cfl  to  cxt'liaii^'c  lor  cuin  ( they 
•  In  not  (;ik<'  ^•i*('('iil)Mcl\s,  ar('ii(»t  in'cdisposcd  towards  <j;<>1<1, 
Kill  ai«'  all  III  r.'iv-oi'nf  iiiiliiiiittMl  silvt^i').  Tliesc  ••onsistcMl 
of  l)i-ac('l('(s,  l)aii!^lcs,  ('ai"-fiiiiz,"s,  l>ask<*ls,  and  wood  cai'N - 
iiiu's,  \«'i'y  Ix'aiiliriilly  made  l)y  lici-  [x'oplc,  iipoji  w  liicli 
slic  had  ;id\  ;iiic('d  iiioiicN'  <lui'lii'_i'  tlic  winter,  from  her  siii'- 
pliis  ill  t  lie  ti'tNisui'y.  Tlic  palace  itscll",  like  all  the  houses 
ill  the  r<»\\.  li;id  oii<'  l.-iiye  I'ooiii  mid  a  isinall  annex  in 
I  he  j'eai",  the  ciist o!iiar\'  lire  in  the  centre,  and  liei'  rei^'al 
coiicli  WMs  not  only  (piite  a  conifoi'taMe  l)e(lstead,  l>iit 
the    heddiiiLi',    l»lank(^ts,   and    sheets    were   all    neat    and 

clean.  I  ler  "  man  of 
e(|iial  riL;;lits'"  was  also 
[)resent;  wliether  he  was 
a  ]»rince  I  reall\'  cannot 
say — h(f  <li<ln't  look  it  ; 
lie  was  much  yoiint;"er 
than  tlie  Princess,  hut  as 
he  was  hei'  se\'enteeiit  h 
hus]jaii<l  it  is  fair  to 
presuiiM'  that  the  sto(d< 
of  marriaij;'eal)le  oldei' 
ones  had  run  out.  '1\\<) 
(Umu's  lK'\(Mid  the  lioiiuv 
of  tlu'  l^i'incess  (at  Xo. 
<'>,1M)();  is  tliat  of  a,  reli^'ious  fanatic  oNcr  wliose  dooi*  is 
a  sign  upon  which  are  painted  the  words,  "  Mlislia 
Ltaliin — head  of  a  larg<'  family  of  oitho(h»x  ('liristians."" 
Tf  all  tlie  liomes  liad  been  as  oidei'ly  and  w<dl  kept 
as  the  Princess  TliomV   there    would    ha\-e   ]>eeu   little 


•5»>*f#^' 


y. 


(h\u/,i/:'dh'  Mi.^s  M.  /).  A',m/t.) 


.■'Miii»'ii<i»'ilili*li 


**??'»>. 


H 

m 

2 
O 

c 

O 

I— < 

> 

z 

s 
o 

el 

> 


if 


■.\ 


|J| 


I      ;  ;!l 


it 


■    \' 


' 


io<S 


/  irojLix's  TRir  10  Alaska. 


I^ii 


li 


I'll 


''I  I 


IN  i  5 


|.;i?f 


to  excite  disgust,  l>ut  they  were  fur  from  it.  I  eiit("i'<Ml 
one  or  two  otliers  wliicli  I  was  told  ^^■ere  fjiir  samples 
of  all,  and  wasliorrified  at  what  I  >Nas  eoni]»ell<Ml  to  see. 
In  tlie  ('oi-n<'r  of  one  sat  an  ohl  man  totally  hlind  and 
idiotic,  a  young  woman  sijuattt'd  at  the  tii-c  eooking 
some  liorrid  Ljreasy  stutf  that  looked  like  tallo^y,  a 
middle-aged  stu[)id-looking  s(|uaw  and  her  child  both 
\\ra]>|)ed  in  their  1)lankets  sitting  on  the  tioor  Avaiting 
for  the  morning  meal,a  s(jualid  unwaslied  hahy  scream- 
ing from  anothei*  eoi'ner,  and  two  or  tliree  stalwai't,  lazy 
men  lounging  ai'ound  witli  theii'liands  i)i  their  pockets; 
encircling  the  room  was  an  elevated  platfoi'in  ujxm 
winch  wei'e  thrown,  not  witli  tlie  artistic  indifference 
to  ari'angement  recommended  hy  Oscar  Wihh',  hut  in  a 
confused  mass,  witliout  any  <tther  i-ule  than   to  find  a 

• 

[)hice  for  tliem,  eyery  iniaginabh*  thing  that  these  peo- 
])le  had  ])een  aide  to  jn'ocure  by  buying  or  begging, 
fi'om  a,  br(dven  clock  to  a  bandbox.  Here  was  a  rude 
bedstead,  made  of  i)lankand  coyei'ed  with  a  mass  of  hay 
or  sea-weed,  or  something  of  that  sort;  alongside  of  it 
a  clothesdine,  from  ^yhic]l  the  sleeju'i-  inhaled  the 
moisture  from  tlu^  half-washed  clothes  ;  on  the  wall  at 
the  bedside,  \vearing  ap})arel  in  all  stages  of  decay, 
covered  with  dust  and  splashed  witii  mud  ;  cans  of  oil 
and  paint,  baskets  of  j)otatoes,  nets  and  ropes  reeking 
with  the  odor  of  decomposed  tish,  ])ots  and  kettles, 
wardrobes,  tlour-bairels  and  soa|)-l>oxes  ;  and  from  the 
I'afters  hung  smoked  salmon  and  bits  of  bacon  and 
fresh  meat.  The  odors  ^velv  simply  frightful,  and 
thouiih  I   di(l   not  count  Iionn    nian\   distinct  smells   1 


/fONRONs  (>/■■  r/f/':  A\i.\'(7//-A'//-:.. 


109 


.'tV 

t 

it 
the 

at 
■ay, 

oil 
111*;' 

1.8, 

the 
111(1 
iiul 
1 


perceived,  I  shall  e\er  t'eel  grateful  to  (he  giddy,  be- 
jewelle<l  s(|ua\\'  wlio  entered  as  T  was  taking  luy  leave, 
and  gave  me  t!ie  benefit  <»f  an  aroma  <>f  musk  whicli 
for  tlie  first  time  in  mv  life  I  found  most  useful  and 
I'efreshino'. 

Passiiiij:  alonu:  and  ed<dn<i:  our  way  ner\'ousl\'  throuij^h 
the  paek  of  half-starved  dogs  ^^'hi(dl  infest  the  neigh- 
boi'hood  as  they  do  the  slums  of  C()nstantino])le  and 
Amsterdam,  we  came  to  the  old  man  in  his  /'(/he 
de  nil  It.  If  we  had  any  inclination  to  laugh  it  \vas 
soon  <lis|)elle(l.  Poor  creature  !  he  was  emaciated, 
paralyzed,  and,  I  think,  demented  ;  and  in  the  midst 
of  his  jabbei'ing  and  solicitations  that  we  would 
enter  his  cabin,  we  drop[KMl  a  coin  into  his  claw-like 
hand  and  ])assed  on.  And  just  here  I  saw  a  dog  whicli 
I  shall  remember  all  my  life  ;  he  \\as  a  weird  and 
phantom  dog,  large,  and  originally  white,  but  his  coat 
was  falling  off,  exposing  s[)ots  of  bright  j)ink  skin  ;  in 
canine  languag(!  he  had  the  mange,  and  he  sat  on  Ids 
hind  legs  a  shivering,  2>itiful,  miserable  thing  that  it 
would  ha\'e  been  a  mercy  to  shoot,  thoimli  this  doubt- 
less would  have  brought  down  upon  us  the  rage  of  the 
entire  rancherie.  Tlie  South  American  poet  intended 
to  describe  that  creature  when  he  said,  "iVr;  (I'd  11  mt 
jxrrd  s(n'n.(is((,  (^ni  una  s((n7(r  pen'om.''  1  had  seen 
enough,  more  than  I  care  to  tell,  and  I  retraced  my 
ste[)s  through  the  throng  of  men,  ^vomen,  children,  and 
dogs,  all  dirt}',  infected,  diseased,  and  most  miserable. 
Dante's  famous  line  best  ex[)resses  our  feelings:  "' JVon 
(•(((jionaiH  (li  hN\  )H(i  (jiKU'da  e  pdssay 


Jl 


;    S 


!i  ^  I 

i    1 


**! 


f  If    ''. 

I  ••'as     '.' 


I  lO 


./    iro.]/  l.V'S   TKir  l\)  ALASKA, 


.«V"r/ 


We  next  visited  the  sliops  kept  l)y  i\iii(^ricaiis,  who 
li.'id  .'I  iiiucli  lMr!i;er  and  choicei'  assortiiieiit  <>F  curios 
lliaii  {\\(.\  Indians,  ainonu,"  llieni  a  (plaint,  unitpn^  Uus- 
sian  sanioN  ar,  s(nne  totems  carved  on  walrus  ivory 
liandsoniely  inlaid  ^^'ith  pehMes,  many  remarkable  ])lts 
of  Indian  carving,  and  hundreds  of  prettily  slia[)ed  and 
hrilliantlv  decorated  baskets.  Next  we  found  ourselves 
with  a  ci'owd  of  our  fellow-passengers  in  another  shop, 
buying  pliotograpliic  views  of  Alaska  from  the  cameras 
of  Tabor,  of  San  Francisco,  and  Parti'idge,  of  Poi'tland  ; 
they  were  ([uite  clieaj),  and  much  better  than  \  saw 
anvwliere  else  ;  so  I  recomnnMid  \'ou,  if  a'ou  <lesii'e  to 
make  a  collecti(-n,  to  do  it  here,  as  you  will  not  have 
such  anothei"  o[»portunity. 

At  the  head  of  tlie  main  street  of  Sitka  and  at  riijht 
angles    to    it    is    the     llusso-drivek    Church    of    Saint 

Michael,  laid  out,  of  course, 
in  the  foi-m  of  the  Greek 
cross,  and  following  in  every 
particular  the  architectural 
design  of  similar  edifices  in 
tlie  mothercountry.  It  seems 
incongruous  and  out  of  [dace 
in  a  little  town  like  Sitka, 
though  in  tlie  courtly  days 
of  Bai'anoff,  and  Kuprean()ff, 
^"^^and  Maksoutoff,  and  all  the 
other  "  oifs,"  it  was  an  in 
GKi  I  K  cm  Rcii  AT  SITKA.  dispensa1)le    adjunct   to    the 

{^Kodak'd  by  Author.)  g^ate    pageautry    of   the  pe- 


' 


THE  GREEK  CIU'RCII. 


II' 


•al 
in 

IMS 

ice 
ka, 


ivs 

iff, 

lie 

ill 

le 

>e- 


\\ 


riod.  Tlie  juu'cli  or  eiitraiice  is  sui'iiiouiitcJ  ])y  a 
S(|uare  tower  of  two  stories,  upon  wliicli  is  a  l)eliTy 
containlnii;  a  chime  of  several  bells,  and  al)o\ c,  a  very 
symmetrical  ra(lis]i-slKq)e(l  spire  (excuse  tlie  simile), 
to2>l>«d  l>y  «'i  cross  of  four  distinct  crosses  ;  over  the 
nave  is  a  Byzantine  dome,  and  above  tins  a  cupola 
again  surmounted  l)y  the  compound  (ireek  cross.  Tlie 
d^>me  and  spire  were  once  j)ainte<l  green,  and  the  ci'osses 
gilded,  but  the  rai'is  and  fogs  of  the  Alaskan  coast 
have  destroyed  the  brilliancy  of  tliese  coloi's,  ami  to- 
day,  like  all  else  that  is  ancient  and  historical  in 
Sitka,  they  are  "sicklied  o'er  with  the  pale  cast  "  of 
neglect. 

The  arrival  of  Arcdibishop  \"'  limir  ^vas  (piite  an 
event  at  Sitka.  He  is  tlie  j)relate  of  his  C-hurcli  in  Amer- 
icn,  and  it  soon  became  known  tliat  at  eleven  o'clock 
he  would  liold  a  special  service.  At  that  liour  tliere 
was  asseml)led  beneath  the  dome  a  very  remarkal)le 
congregation — a  iiielauiji  of  Indians,  Russians,  Ameri- 
cans, and  sailors  and  tourists  fi'oni  oui'  shi[).  We  stood  up 
durinji:  the  entire  service,  there  beiiiii*  ii(>  seats.  Arch- 
bislio[)  AMadimir  and  his  four  assistants  wore  the  sacer- 
dotal ornaments  of  their  re8[)ective  offices,  which  were 
really  superl) ;  the  garments  were  of  ex(juisite  texture 
of  gold,  silver,  and  silk  embroider}',  and  the  mitres 
studded  with  rare  jewels  of,  I  should  think,  inuiiense 
value.  The  litui'gy,  in  the  Slavonic  language,  was 
clianted  by  one  of  the  priests,  who  had  the  most  mu- 
sical bass  voice  I  ever  heard  (tliongh  aboard  sliip  lie 
smoked  ciirarettes  from  morniiiir  until  ni<dit),  and  bv  a 


i 


Pf 


!  . 


K   / 


\ 


I  12 


A    ll'OM.I.V'S    77k'//'   /V  .//../.S7\'./, 


1 1 1 


choir  of  IiidiaM  boys,  'r.-jkiiig  It  all  in  all,  tlic  scrviin* 
was  most  iiii|)ressi\(' ;  tlic  iiati\(M'liil(lii'ii,  Uussiaii  .'ind 
Iiulijui,  well  (li*ess«'<l  and  g('nt('('ido«)kiiiir^  secniini;'  to 
tlioi'oiis^ldy  compi'diciid  wliat  was  goiui;"  <>ii,  wcic  coii- 
tiimnllv  howiiiii:  tlic  head  and  iiiakiiiii"  the  si^:!!  of 
tlie  tToss ;  tlicy  were  scdiolais  in  tlio  clnii'cli  school. 
At  tl»c  conclusion  of  tln^  ritual  ihc  Archhishop  dclix- 
ered  an  a<hlrcss,  and  as  he  Iui'ikmI  his  fac(^  towards  us  1 
rcali/cd  (he  tiMith  of  wliat  I  liad  soincwhcrtMcad  about 
tlie  (Ti'cck  Church  and  its  |ni('sth<>(>(],  to  the;  effect  that 
the  ]»ivlat('s  ai'(^  sclccttMJ  fi-oin  among  tlie  bishops,  who 
ai'(^  all  celibates,  and  that  tin*  pi'ef'erence  f.dls  u])ou 
those  \\h<>se  featui'es  most  i'esend)le  (he  ti'aditional 
C'hi'ist.  Ai'chbishop  Vladimir,  as  a  passenger  on  the 
good  ship  (^>iu(n^  was  a  very  tall  ratherthin  man,  clad 
in  a  long  cloak  to  his  ankles  and  a  ca]»t^  to  his  el])o\vs, 
and  wearinii'  a,  \  (TN'  bi-oa(bbrinuned,  low-crowned  felt 
hat,  his  hair  being  ]>laited  and  tied  in  a  litth^  bunch  at 
his  neck.  At  tlu^  altar,  dressed  in  the  [>ui'ple  and  g(>ld 
robes  of  his  Church,  he  had  a  face  of  amiabh^  benevo- 
lence, a  soft,  flossy  moustache  and  beard,  his  hail'  |)ai'ted 
in  the  centi'e  and  flowing  g!'acefully  ovei'  his  shoulders. 
Tht!  carefully  studied  imitation  \\\\^  a[)[)arent  ou  the 
instaut  ;  there  you  saw  the  ideal  picture  in  the  centre 
of  Leonardo  da  ^'^inci^s  fresco  of  "The  T^ast  Su|)[)er,*'' 
I  ^\isll  with  all  my  heart  I  could  have  com|)rehended 
his  words,  for  I  could  see  by  his  gestures  that  they 
were  t^arnest,  sim])le,  instructi^'e,  and  loving.  The 
service  being  over,  he  came  down  among  his  people, 
laying   hands   upon   them  an<l   blessing  them   with   a 


■ 


riiii  cKiii-K  cinKcii. 


"3 


Hmile  so  full  of  tt'iidci'iicss  that  I  am  suit  <'V('i'y  lowly, 
TumaMl  Indian  who  Ivlsst'd  liis  hand  was  a  little  hfttei' 
for  tlic  contact,  thoULjli  I  slu^dd  ha\c  hccn  xciy  soiry 
to  hav(3  tsuljuiiUcd  mine  to  tlic  tsaine  experience. 


levo- 
■ted 

(TS. 

the 
ntre 
M'l'. 
ided 
l»ey 
riie 
Iple, 
Ih    a 


Wliile  tliis  was  o'oinLC<»ii  T  availe*!  myself  of  the  con- 
fusion incident  t(t  tlie  crowding' ai'onnd  the  Arc]d)isliop 
to  take  a  litok  at  the  interior  ti'easiires  aiul  <lecorations 
of  the  church,  w  hi(di  are  a  ureat  surpi'ise  measnred  hy 
the  impression  made  l)y  the  fad  in  ii;  c  dors  and  apjwu'ent 
neijclect  of  the  exterior.  'Idn-re  ai'e  two  altai-s  in  the 
transe])ts,  the  lar^'cr  oiu'  Ix'ini:-  shnt  olf  excepting"  dnr- 
inii'  tlie  service  l)v  two  ii'olden  l)i'on/e  do(>rs,  eacli  ex- 
(pii.sitely  oi'iiamented  by  solid  silver  iina<j:;es  of  tlie 
])atron  saints,  the  doors  tliemsehcs  Ix'iiiL,^  of  fretted 
and  o])en  work  and  most  effective  [)attern.  All  tlie 
panels  ai'e  decorated  by  oil  paintings,  tlu'  details  of 
wliicli   ai'e   executed    \vith    the  care   (»f  the   miniature 


lii' 


114 


A   JlVAfAX'S  TKir  TO  ALASKA. 


It  1 1 


■ 


J 


I 


i 


pMiiittT,  and  \w.i\v  tlie  very  t'losc.st  scnitiiiy.  Many  of 
thcs<'  arc  fi'uiiUMl,  as  it  were,  with  sil\'(M',  the  (li';i|uM'y 
and  ornaintMits  of  tin*  Ixxly  IxMiii^^  <>f  tliat  metal,  w  liile 
tlui  r<'atuivs,  hands,  mid  feet  are  in  c()h)rs, — a  (plaint 
C()nd)inati()n,  yet  very  etVectivt^  Tlu-y  ij^av(^  tlui  impres- 
sion of  heinii;  (lie  work  of  a  master-hand,  and  I  much 
regretted  tliat  tliere  apju'ared  to  l)e  no  iiK'ans  of  ascer- 
tain ing  the  artist's  name.  An  liour  ean  be  very  well 
spent  liere  by  the  art  stiKh'iit. 

Among  tliose  present  (biring  (he  entire  s<'rvi('e  I 
o])served  two  very  charming  young  women,  w  lio  were 
evidently  as  little  apart  of  what  w^as  going  on  as  1  was 
myself,  ami  with  them  a  lovely  blue-eyed  child  of 
about  three  years  of  age,  whosci  pure  white  skin  and 
])retty  dress  made  him  a  beautiful  pearl  among  the 
tawny  skins  of  the  unwashed  natives.  After  a  little 
hesitation,  T  a[)pi'oached  and  introdiice(l  myself,  (Hily  to 
discover  that  they  were  just  as  anxious  to  speak  with 
me  as  [  Avas  to  talk  with  ihem.  Of  course  it  resulted 
in  our  becoming  fast  friends  for  the  remainder  of  the 
day,  as  they  proved  to  be  the  wives  of  officei's  of  the 
Pinta^  which  vessel,  you  Avill  remember,  we  left  at 
Fort  Wrangell.  One  of  them,  Mrs.  F.,  was  from  Phila- 
delphia, the  city  of  ''  homes "  ;  the  other,  Mrs.  K., 
from  AVashington,  the  city  of  "  social  life  "  ;  and  here 
they  were  out  on  the  far-off  coast  of  Alaska,  and  had 
been  for  ever  so  long,  without  either  home  or  society. 
One  of  them  I'esided  in  apai'tments  at  a  restaurant  or 
tavern  near  the  church,  which  lier  own  taste  and  famil- 
iar?';' with    refinement    had   made   habitable,   and  the 


Ajr/iAvr.ix  [..ini/is  ix  sfrkw. 


ns 


le 
<'it 


or 
il- 
lie 


otlici'  (Wliosc  liusbaiid  1iji|)[kmu'(1  t(»  1m'  willi  lu-i)  lived 
over  H  sliop  across  the  sti'eet  in  a  c<nipl«'  of  rooms  a|>- 
pi'oacli(Ml  over  a  creaky,  tiiiiil)l(Mlo\N  n  staircase,  Iml 
rather  cosey  wlieii  yoii  iijot  into  tliein  and  experienced 
tlie  liospitality  of  thc^  [►h-asant  hostess.  Nevertlieless 
they  seemed  happy,  at  h'ast  they  would  not  confess 
that  tliey  wei'e  not  so;  still,  I  made  a  'ow,  on  the 
spot,  that  if  I  am  ever  awi(h)\v,  naval  otlicei's  \wvA  not 
ap[)ly.  Said  one  of  them  :  '^  I  e:  Meet  to  leave?  this 
place  in  Se[)tend)er,  Init  ha\'e  no  idea  where  Ave  will  l)e 
ordered.'^  Stiid  tht>  other:  "I  have  been  here  three 
years — my  hoy  is  a  Sitkan."  Now  Sitka  is  very 
l)eautiful,  very  romantic,  is  wttinij:  to  h'^  a  jj-ocxl  deal 
talked  of  all  ovei*  the  world,  and  will  ])rol)al)ly  o;row 
a.  .1  i)ros])er,  hut  it  is  wo  place  for  charming  young 
women  to  spend  three  or  four  of  the  best  years  of 
their  young  lives,  se[)arated  from  their  husbands  most 
of  that  time,  and  left  almost  entirely  to  the  uneonsxe- 
nial  society  of  a  population  seven  eighths  of  \vhom  be- 
long to  the  race  who  twice  in  the  history  of  the  city 
have  massacred  the  wdiites.  These  ladies  confessed  to 
me  that  there  Avas  n(^  <liversion  or  anuisement  what- 
ever at  this  post,  excepting  "just  a  little  scandal  and  a 
good  deal  of  jxdver,"  and  that  even  this  grew  monoto- 
nous and  had  to  be  varied  with  fishing  and  hunting, 
and  there  the  excitement  ended,  excepting  on  steamer 
days,  whicli  was  really  the  only  event  Avhicli  dispelled 
their  ennui.  They  depend  entirely  u[)on  the  Russians 
for  domestic  servants,  and  these  are  not  only  very  inde- 
pendent, but  troublesome  in  many  other  ways. 


ii6 


J    II'O.U.IWS   TRir  TO  ALASKA. 


fp 


\     \ 


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I, 


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;  '■  M 


AVe  l(\'ii'iu*(1  lici'c  tliat  cvci'v  tliiiii^  Aiiu'ricjiii,  wliicli  tae 
Iiuliaus  tliiiik  well  of,  tlicv  c'lll  "  l^ostoii  "  ;  tliose  \vli() 
tire  Aiiiericjuii/AMl  call  tlieinselves  "  Boston  Si\vaslit^s  "  ; 
the  Jiiissloiiaries  arc  known  as  "  Boston  men,''  and  tlie 
steamers  as  ''  Boston  sliips  "  ;  and  tliis  hroiio'lit  from  a 
fellow-l)assemj;:er  a  capital  stors'  wliicli  ma\'  l^e  old,  hut 
was  not  so  to  me,  and  would  he  mven  liere  even  tliouu'li 
I  wer(!  a  Boston  woman  myself.  It  is  of  a  ])atriotic 
voun^•  L-ii'l  from  tlie  "Hub"  who,  Ijeinii'  asked  to  ac- 
count  for  tliere  being  so  much  larger  a  [)roportion  of 
Unitai'ians  in  Boston  than  in  any  other  cit}'  in  the 
world,  rephed  :  "T  su[)[)ose  it  is  because  we  cannot 
bring  ourseU'es  to  sul)scribe  to  the  (h>ctrine  of  I'e- 
generation,  for  wlio,  being  ])orn  in  I>oston,  would  have 
anv  <]esire  or  occasion  to  be  born  aL:;ain." 

ITearing  that  the  Indian  lliver  in  the  suburbs  of  the 
town  is  worthy  of  a  visit,  we  accepted  the  escort  of  our 
two  young  friends,  and  after  a  \\'alk  of  half  a  mile  (I 
believe  I  luive  already  said  thai    there   are  few  liorses 

« 

in  Alaska,  and  no  carriaii'es)  Av^e  came  to  a  I'eallv  very 
(plaint  and  romantic  lane,  leading  to  a  clear  and  rapid 
stream  ovei'  which  is  thro^vn  a  i)retty  rustic  sus])en- 
si(tn  l)i'idge.  It  is  a  very  charming  spot,  rich  with 
ferns  of  most  (hdicate  texture  and  l)i'iii::litest  green  and 
velvet  mosses,  such  as  those  which  border  the  foot- 
[)aths  through  tlie  woods  in  England,  a  bower  of  wild 
foliage  in  fact,  of  ex(piisite  color.  By  all  means  stroll 
through  it,  if  for  no  othei'  [)ur[>()se  than  to  inhale  the 
pure  ail'  that  has  never  come  in  contact  with  tlie 
rancherie.     On  your  way  back,  you  will  discover,  per- 


■^ 


hi 


" 


> 


71 
73 


,  If. 


P' 


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1*1 


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!ii  fi 


1^ 


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lit 


Il8 


J    //7).I/J.\".S'   77vV/'  /V)  J/../.SA'./ 


lijips,  tliiit  Al;isk.'i,  like  Ircl.'Uid,  lias  licr  '•  l>l.'iniey- 
stone/'  l»iit  wliy,  I  rc.-illy  camiot  tell,  for,  excepting' 
the  little  groiijt  of  my  own  coiintry woiiieii,  who 
might  he  counted  on  the  lingeis,  there  is  not  anoihcr 
face  in  Sitka  which  would  retlect  a  res|)oiisi\  (^  smile  to 
the  sweetest  thing  that  fell  from  lij)s  tliat  had  kissed 
the  Idarney-stone  a  liundi-ed  times.  The  stone  may  he 
I'ecoii'ni/ed,  should  nou  ha\('  an\-  diilicultv  in  lindini;' 
it,  by  the  names  of  toui'ists  and  insi-riptions  cut  all 
oNer  it  in  all  the  tongues  of  the  'I'ower  of  Bahel. 

And  now,  ([uite  l)y  accident,  I  liad  [)erhaps  the  most 
interesting  experienc(M>f  my  whole  trip, — certainly  one 
that  has  made  an  everlasting  impi'ession  upon  my  mind  ; 
an  object  lesson  which  often  and  often  \vill  set  me  think- 
ing, a  sul)ject  wliich  would  reip.iire  a  volume  to  do  it 
approximate  justic(».  The  joyous  shouting  of  half  a 
hundred  boys,  some  of  them  dashin*''  aci'oss  tlie  road  in 


pursuitofafootd)all;  well-clothed, well-fed  l)oy«; healthy, 
vigorous,  intelligent  boys  ;  Indians,  lialf-bi*eeds,  Musco- 
vites, and  a  few  Americans.  AVliat  did  it  mean  i  From 
where    had   they  so  suddenly  come  ?      From   scliool. 


f  *    I 


\    \ 


memm 


Tim  PRI'-SnVTERIANMlSSIOX  Si  IfOOLS.     1 19 

Tliese    were    the    heiiefieiaries    of    tl,e    "  Pi'e.s])vtenan 
Hoanlof  ll<„ne  Missions,"  aiid  tlie   lai-e  l)i,il(iin..  <„, 
the  riglit  of  tlie  road  is  the  seliool-liouse.      ( )f  cMiise  I 
had  read  about  tliis  Missi(„i  ;  all  tlic^  ])(>oks  0:1  Alaska 
refer  t(»  it  more  or  less  ;  yvi  tlie  kiioxvledge  of  its  ex- 
istence liad  l)roiig],t  no  special  desire  to  visit  the  place. 
To  me  Sitki    was  Ww,  vestige  of  a  departed  empire- 
tlie  home  of  a  decaying  race  of  al)origines  ;  a  depot  for 
the  sale  of  Uusso-Tndiaii   relics  an(i  curios;  a  pi'etty 
little  t(AMi  timidly  hiding  away  in  among  the  mount- 
mils  ;  and    for  that  T  had  come  to  see  it  and  had  heeii 
.imply  repaid.     But  the  "  Mission  "  I  had  ncN  er  thou-ht 
of;  perhaps  the  l)ook-writers  had  failed  to  attract  me  to 
It ;  perhaps  my  faith  in  missions  generallv  was  not  very 
conHrmed  ;  perhaj^s  I  did  not  l>elieve  what  I  read  about 
them.     I^e  that  as  it  may,  hereafter  no  man,  nor  Nvoniau 
either,  shall  outdo  me  in  words  of  ])raise  and  thanks 
for  the  glorious  Godlike  uork  which  is  being  pei-formed 
by  the  good  people   Nvho  are  rescuing  the  lives,  the 
bodies,  and  the  souls  of  these  poor  creatui-es  froin  the 
l>hysical  and  moral  deaths  they  are  dying.     T  am  not  a 
Christian  woman  ;  my  faith  is  that  of  the  chosen  peo- 
ple who  were  led  out  of  Egyptian  tyraunv  and  dark- 
ness by  the  pillar  of  lire  and  the  pillar  of  cloud  ;  but 
my  whole  nature  is  in  accord  with  these  Christian'  men 
and  women,  whose  immolation  and  sacrifices  to  reo-en- 
erate    their   fellow-creatures    will    surely    meet    with 
heavenly  reward,  no  mattei-  what  their  creed.     I  wish 
r  had  had  more  time  at  my  disposal  to  speml  with  the 
teachers   and    the  scholars  s(»  that   1   might   now  <dve 


il 


•*"/ 

f^ 


Ifll 


i 


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[\  i 


.1  » 


i; 


ir  i 


,v 


130 


W    /f7^.]/J.V\   TRIP  TO  ALASKA. 


even  ii  skeleton  outline  of  tlieii'  daiK'  life  ;  l>ul  I  niav 
s.'iv  to  tliose  wlio  (lesii'e  to  know  more  tl»an  ni\  brief 
.'ie([uaintjine(^  wltli  the  siibjeet  enal^l(^s  me  to  tell  them, 
that  these  Mission  schools  of  Alaska  are  in  eliar^e  of 
the  Uev.  Hlieldon  ffaekson,  \vh(^se  address  is  Sitka,  and 
although  I  ha<l  not  the  pleasure  of  meeting  him  (as  he 
was  absent),  I  am  sure  he  will  most  chet  rfuUy  give 
an\'  information  asked  for.  The  Rev.  A.  K.  Austin  and 
Mrs.  Austin,  haviniz'  (d)served  our  i)artv  entering"  tlie 
scliooldiouse  grounds,  received  us  at  the  door,  and  from 
that  moment  u?itil  the  blowing  of  the  s]ii[)\s  ^v]listle 
admonislied  lis  that  we  nuist  leave  tliem,  w^M'e  exceed- 
ingly kind  and  jxdite,  facilitating  our  insjKH'tion  of  the 
school  in  such  a  systematic  way  that  we  were  really 
able  to  gather  much  information  in  addition  to  expe- 
rienciuii:  a  most  novel  anil   enioNable  visit. 

There  are  al)outone  hundred  bovs  and  lift\'  <i:lrls  in 
the  institution,  some  of  them  beini;  only  three  A'ears  of 

aixe  and  others  as  old  as 
twenty-two.  The  scholastic 
education  is  \ery  ])roperly 
confined  entirely  to  the  Eng- 
lish l)ranches  ;  hut  tliis  is  sup- 
plemented ])y  the  ti'aining- 
s(diools,  founded  and  main- 
tained by  Mrs.  Elliott  F. 
Sliepai'd,of  New  York,  ^vhere 
,:'  the    boys    are   instructed    in 

MRS.  sHK.>AR,vs  TR ATxiNv.-scHooL.       ^'J^T^^" ^ry,  slioeuiaking,    and 
{Kodak'd  i>y  Author.)  bhick-smitliing,  aud  the  gii'ls 


TIfli  rRIiSnVTJiRIAX  M/SS/OX  Sc7/0iU.S.   121 


fire  tniii 


[lit  (li 


ik 


.1  tl 


ress-uijikiiiL!^  and  tlie  use  or  tlie  se\viiii;'-iii.'i 


f  til 


•liine.      L  went  lii'st  iiit<i  one  of  tlie  rliiss-rooms  of  tlie 


males, Avlierc  1  saw  perliaps  twenty  dark-skinned  Siwash 
Indian  hoys,  wliosc^  ^[ongolian  faces  and  alniond-slia))ed 
eyes  liad  assumed  an  expi'ession  of  intelli^'enee,  so  differ- 
ent from  tlie  stu[)id,  blear-eyed  appearance  of  the  saints 
age  and  race  whom  I  ha<l  seen  in  the  ranclierie,  that  it 
was  difficult  to  realize  that  they  could  possibly  he  twigs 
of  the  same  tree.  Two  of  the  ])oys  were  at  the  black- 
board working  out  a  sum  in  ^Mgebia  (a  thing  I  coiildirt 
(h)  nnself  for  the  life  of  me);  and  here  we  lino-ered 
foi'  a  few  minutes  while  Mrs.  John  II.  JJeVore,  of  Coi'ry, 
Pennsylvania,  the  teacher  of  the  class,  gave  us  a  fair 
sample  of  the  progress  being  made  ]>y  her  pupils. 
Next  we  went  to  the  Primary  Department  over  which 
Miss  Delph  of  Crestline,  Ohio,  presided,  who,  with 
great  ])atience  and  kindly  fin'bearance,  was  performing 
the  difficult  opei'ation  of  extracting  the  guttural  sounds 
fi'oni  two  Indian  maidens'  throats  and  adapting  them 
to  the  pronunciation  of  Knglish  w^ords.  Up-staii's  we 
found  the  dormitories, 
like  every  thing  else 
about  the  establishment, 
orderly,  neat,  and  clean, 
due  regard  being  paid  to 
the  number  allotted  to 
eadi  room,  and  to  the 
subject   of  heatini*:  an(^ 

ventilation.    In  the  sew-  ,„e  mission  cildren. 

ing     de[)artmeiit     were  {Kodak'd  by  Author.) 


3     ■'. 


J    JI'(\U.L\"S   TRir  TO  ALASKA. 


s<n'(M*jil  Lili'ls  opcriitiiin'  skill'iillv  iij><)H  tlio  scwiiig-ina- 
cliiiic,  other's  ciitthii;'  from  tlic;  [»lece,  uiid  youiii^cr  ones 
bMstiiio;  for  tlic  sewiiij;  o-irls.  'I'lic  colors  of  tlic  mute- 
rial  were  all  hrii^lit,  in  fact  (luite  i^aiKh,  L;-l\iii!j'-  proof 
that  these  children  are  encouraged  to  gi'atify  ihe  harm- 
less tastes  of  their  race,  w  hich  is  eminently  |)ro[ter. 

Next  we  were  taken  to  Mrs.  Shepard's  shops,  and 
altlionii'h  the  work  was  o\ei"  for  the  da\',  we  could 
[)lainly  see  by  the  specimens  of  handiwork  all  around 
us  what  a  noble  charity  her  philanthropy  and  bounty 
had  created.  Evei'v  thini''  within  siij^ht  of  us  had 
been  built  by  the  Indian  boys  who  weiv  the  pu[)ils 
of  the  Pi'esbyterian  Mission  and  of  Mrs.  She}>ar(rs 
training-school,  including  the  sclioobhouses  themselves, 
(foi*  the\'  had  recently  Ix^en  destroyed  by  fire,)  and  the 
LTroui)  of  little  cottaii:es  in  the  distance  whi(di  Mrs. 
Austin  begs  us  to  yisit,  tliat  we  may  liave  an  op])ortu- 
nity  of  seeing  "  how  our  pupils  live  when  they  marry 
and  go  to  housekeeping."  '' Jose})h  "'  was  at  home 
when  we  knocked  at  the  door,  but  his  ^vife  and  little 
ones  had  gone  down  to  the  landing  to  see  tlie  new  ship 
(the  Quee/t).  Jose[)h  Avas  a  man  of  about  twenty-live 
years  of  age  I  should  say  ;  when  we  distiirljed  him  he 
was  sitting  at  a  table  in  his  little  parloi*  Avriting  a  letter 
which  T  sa^y  commeiuHMJ  *■  My  dearest  and  best  fi'iend." 
It  was  ])eing  written  to  a  Mr.  Miller  in  the  East,  who 
had  been  his  benefactor  and  to  whom  he  chiefly  owed 
his  rescue  from  a  life  of  idleness  or  ^yorse.  Josepli  was 
living  in  a  house  ^vhich  he  had  built  himself,  every 
inch    of   it,  doors,    windows,    staii'cases,  tables,   every 


..A 


MRS.  /:.  F.  S/f/iPARjys  JIOSriTALS. 


123 


tliinsj^  in  fact  that  a  carpenter  could  make,  ^vas  tlurwork 
of  liis  own  liands.  His  parlor  was  ji  pei'fect  i:;ein  of 
taste,  oi'der  and  cleanliness,  and  as  foi*  liis  two  bed- 
rooms on  the  second  story,  which  we  all  visited  (a 
dozen  or  more  of  us)  they  coulcbrt  have  been  sweeter 
or  neater  if  they  liad  been  placed  there  pur])()8ely  for 
exliibition.  My  only  refjret  was  that  I  had  not  the 
o[)[)<n"tunity  of  seeini:;  the  woman  wliose  innat<'  and 
once  latent  sense  of  relinement  had  been  developed  by 
tlie  instruction  she  had  received  in  the  Mission  school, 
for  no  other  kind  of  wonian  could  have  spread  those 
little  comforts  of  the  toilet  so  daintily  on  the  bureau,  or 
decorated  the  walls  so  picturescpiely  and  tastefully 
with  photographs  and  prints. 

Attached  to  the  school  are  t^\'o  hospitals  also  en- 
dowed by  Mrs.  Shepard,  but  neithei'  of  them  having 
many  patients.  In  one  was  a  little  consumptive  child, 
doomed  no  doubt  to  an  early  death  ;  one  of  those  un- 
fortunates who  suffer  "  for  the  sins  of  the  fathei's  to 
the  third  and  fourth  generation";  another  was  a 
rheumatic,  whose  neglected  infancy  had  destroyed  a 
life  that  could  now,  throuixh  the  beneficence  of  educa- 
tion,  be  made  liappy  and  useful  had  not  her  health 
been  undermined  in  the  dam[)  pits  of  the  rancherie. 
A  thii'd  was  a  sufferer  from  o])hthalmia,  produced 
perhaps  by  lack  of  cleanliness  and  living  in  an  atmos- 
phere of  smoke. 

Tt  is  said  somewhere  that  it  is  only  a  single  step 
from  civilization  to  barbarism, — ])erhaps  so.  If  all 
wrongdoing  is  barbaric,  the  saying  is  not  oidy    trite 


WT' 


1!.' 


\.{ 


124 


./    1l'(\]LLX'S   /7vV/'   /-(^  Af.ASk'A. 


Imt  ti'iic,  f(ti'  a  false  ciNilizatloii  often  hcgcfs  tlie  very 
worst  <>f  crimes.  Hut  I  and  those  ladies  and  i^'entle- 
ni<Mi  who  aceoinpanie*!  nif  thioiii^li  the  ranehei'ie  and 
tile  seliools  at  Sitka  can  voncli  foi-  tlie  fact  that  it 
is  only  lialf  a  niih'  IVoni  savage,  iiueivili/ed  ignoi-auce, 
superstition,  liltli,  and  iiuinorality,  to  education,  de- 
jxn'tinent,  thi'ift,  domestic  felicity,  and  all  human 
liappiness.  Thank  (rod  I  had  se<'n  ""!('  revers  de  la 
iticddllh'r  To  ha\'c  gone  hack  to  my  comfortable 
home  in  New  York  and  to  the  embraces  of  my  hriglit, 
liealthy,  intelligent  children,  feeling  that  these  poor 
little  wret(dies  at  Sitka  wei'e  to  remain  outcasts  during 
thehi'ief  time  that  disease  and  degradation  should  permit 
them  to  exist  on  earth,  would  have  heen  a  great  sorrow. 
Thanks  \o  the  Pivshvterian  Boar<l  of  Home  ^[issi(>ns 
andto^lrs.  Klliott  F.Shepard,  the  reverse  is  a  great  joy. 


r 

I'i 


TlIK    MlSKl'M    AT    SII  KA. 

(k'o(ink\n>y  Ant /tor.) 


.'•r 


CIIAPTKU  IX. 

'^8  tlu'  time  arrived  for  oiii"  dcjjnrture 
from  Sitka  a  great  portion  of  tlie  popu- 
lation eaiiie  down  to  tlie  landiiii'',  and 
just  before  we  started  we  were  sui'j)rised 
to  see  approaclilng  tlie  ship  a  long 
procession  headed  by  a  brass  ])and 
which  played  (piite  good  music.  These 
were  some  of  the  pupils  fi'om  the 
Mission  school,  and  tli<i  musicians  were 
Indian  boys  from  tlie  school  also. 
Arrived  at  the  landing  they  formed  an  interesting 
group,  at  which  we  all  levelled  our  Kodaks,  much 
to  the  amusement  of  the  youngsters,  who,  no  doubt, 
thought  some  of  us  a 
little  crazy ;  the  hat 
was  passed  ar<mnd,  and 
the  band  added  about 
thirty  dollars  to  its 
fund  for  new  instru- 
ments. When  we  finally 

began  to   move   a  way,  "-^-'-'M.  '•„.:.  -     ,  ^JS' 

we   received   fs   aifec-  ^Kouak'uby  Autiwr., 


l:i  ill 


^am 


wr^ 


lit 


1 


i«    i 


ijlx 


126 


A    WOMAN'S  TRIP  TO  ALASKA. 


tioiiJitc  and  rcgi'ctt'ul  an  adicn  from  the  crowded  wliarf 
as  tlionjjjh  tlie  spectators  were  parrinu^  with  their  nearest 
kin.  'I'lie  NouiiLi'  American  women  waved  their  liand 
kerchielV  tlie  men  sliouted  tlieir  cheei's,  and  tlie  little 
Siwasli  tots  kissed  their  hands  till  we  were  too  far 
away  to  distinguish  their  forms  as  tliey  took  a  last 
fond  linij^erinij:  h>ok  at  the  dissolvinij:  view  of  the  shii). 
And,  oh,  what  a  cliai*niing  [)icture  was  ours  as  we 
steamed  out  of  tlie  harbor  of  Sitka  at  six  (►'clock  that 
lovely  sTumner  evening  !  'I'he  sky  could  not  have  been 
a  more  cloudless  azure  blue  ;  it  ^\■as  just  cool  enough 

to  provoke  a   walk  to  and 
fro  upon   the    deck  ;    there 
was    so    little    aii-    stirriuij: 
that    the    smoke    ascended 
in  a  per[)endicular  column 
from    the    stack,    and    the 
sheen  upon  the  water  made 
the  ocean   a  sea  of  sil- 
ver.     A\'e    all    felt    so 
jolly ;    everyl)ody    de- 
lighted with  the  day's 
experience,    and    each 
person  having  some  lit- 
tle episode  to  relate  of 
the  day  s])ent  in  Sitka. 
Not  a  grumbler ;  not  a 
single  soul  disappoint- 
ed   about    the    slight- 
{^Kodak'iii'y Auiiior.)  est    thing;    in   fact    it 


* 


|i   >i 


I:t 


iH 


■a 


) 


77//:*  /sr.LV/lS  JAVV'.W)  SfTKA. 


\27 


was  iiiv  first  ('.\'i)(']'i<Mi<M»  in  mv  m.'iin'  vovjilt^'^  <^f 
plcasui'c,  wlici'c  mii\(M'sal  satisfaction  was  iho  result  of 
tlic  (lay's  «'X[KM'ieii('e.  Yet  I  coiild  not  liclj*  thinking!: 
of  tlic  desolation  to  wliicli  our  departure  eondennuMl 
those  wlio  had  l>eeu  so  kind  to  us;  nor  of  those  poor 
souls  whose  darkness  uiay  never  he  dis[)elled  hy  the 
enliii'htenment  of  education  and  civilization ;  and  it 
oecniTed  to  m**  that  if  I  ow  ned  the  steamship  line! 
would  l>>iil<l  a  litthi  hotel  thei'e,  that  tlu^  passengers 
might  have  an  op[)ortiinity  of  occui)ying  a  week  in 
excursions  to  points  of  interest,  which  it  is  impossible 
to  reach  in  a  large  shi[>,  and  then  life  at  Sitka  would 
not  be  so  intolei'able ;  and  that  if  T  was  tin?  govern- 
ment of  the  United  States,  I  would  j)ut  the  Indiana 
under  such  (lisci[)line  that  their  ([uai'ters  should  be 
sui)ject  to  ins[)ection,  and  their  children  com[)elled  to 
m)  to  school.  What  two  jj^reat  l)oons  these  ^^•ould  l)e 
to  Sitka,  and  how  easy  to  accom[)lish  both.  But  the 
scenery  is  so  beautifull}'  grand  that  I  must  keep  my 
moralizing  for  some  future  time. 

This  is  the  Sitkan  Archipelago,  and  w^e  are  in  the  midst 
of  so  many  islands  that  I  don't  know  whether  to  speak 
of  them  by  hundreds  or  thonsands  ;  they  are  excpiisite 
emerald,  pink,  yellow,  and  crimson  islands  all  of  them,  so 
close  to  eacli  other  that  the  deer  swim  to  and  fro  as  the 
canary  leaps  from  perch  to  perch,  and  the  shadows  of 
their  tall  forests  fall  from  one  to  the  other  just  as  the 
housetop  throws  its  shade  across  the  street ;  yet  the 
channel  is  so  deep  between  them  that  we  circle  and 
wind  in  and  out  of  them  at  a  rate  of  speed  which 


<  '11 


ii 


■iSHHHHIiaiiilililUiHHHil 


rr 


'.iyi 


is 


.    >! 


128 


A    irO.ir.  LV\S  TRIP  TO  ALASKA. 


throws  \\w.  water  \\\yiS\  ii|>  upon  tlicir  l)aiilcs,  t'i'ii::liten- 
iiii^  tlic  wild  (lucks  and  i^ccsc,  wlio  in  Hocks  ami 
couples  (lai't  aci'oss  our  how  continually.  Mount 
I'](li;('conil)(',  Hv(^  miles  ri<jjjit  jiliead  of  us,  Ixu'oiues 
the  centre  of  observation  and  the  subject  of  (con- 
versation. Every  tiel(l-i:;lass  on  the  shi|>  is  lesclled 
at  it,  and  we  distinctly  sec;  tlie  gapiuii;  mouth  of  the 
crater  and  the  dcej)  ravines  cut  hy  the;  rivers  of 
L'lva  whicli  ha\e  rolled  to  its  hase.  We  au'ain  take 
the  outei"  (diaimel,  kee[)inii;  Mount  Kdi^econdx'  on  our 
riij^ht  for  several  hours,  it  a|)peared  to  me, — eacli  view 
of  it  Ix'iuij^  more  and  more  conHrmatoiy  of  its  volcanic 
character.  We  arcMiow  ])assinn' ju'ound  Kruzof  Island, 
and  when  well  out  to  sea,  steer  due  north  alonu;  the 
western  coast  of  'rcliitchagoff  IslaiK^i  towards  (/ros« 
Sound,  whicli  is  tlu;  outlet  of  (jlacier  P)ay.  it  is  half- 
j)ast  ten  o'clock  wlien  we  a[)proach  Cape  Cross,  yet  it 
is  daylight,  rea'  daylight,  by  which  }'ou  can  read  a 
news|)aper  just  as  well  as  at  tea-time.  What  is  that 
white  streak  al)ove  the  horizon  I'ight  ahead  of  us?  Is 
it  a  cloud,  or  some  optical  illusion?  "Nothing  of  the 
kind  ;  it  is  the  Fairweather  range,  the  most  beautiful 
snow  mountains  in  the  world,''  says  Captain  Carroll. 
"Sorry  it  will  be  a  ^  lark  when  we  get  thei'e,  but 

you  shall  see  the  aaylight  if  tlie   weather  holds 

uj)."  Fortunatt.  is  we  were  out  of  reach  of  tele- 
gra|)hic  conuuunication,  tlu  Weather  Bureau  liad  no 
chance  to  dash  our  hopes  with  [)rognostications  of 
"cloudy,  followed  by  local  rains,"  or  any  nonsense  of 
that   kind,   and   as   the   sun    had    gone    down   full   of 


\ 


ij 


1 


J   MCll  I    01'  C0.\  I  IXL'AL   PA  V. 


129 


proiiiist',  we  li.'t<l  cNt'i'V  reason  t<>  feel  Iiopcl'iil  lliat  tlic 
(\'il)t<'iiii  would  !)('  al»h'  1<»  keep  liis  word,  and  well  did 
he  keep  it  I  wo  days  later. 

Bui,  to  reluni  to  (!|-oss  Sound;  l»y  I'el'ei'eliee  to 
tli«'  ina[»s  you  will  lliid  that  here  \\v  eliaiiLCe  oui' 
eoiii'se  al)i'Uptly  to  the  riL:;lit,  and  yon  will  also  i*eniai'k, 
prol)al>Iy,    that    this    water  is  eallcMl  on   some  of  them 


'; 


m 


m 


\. 


H! 


tl 


Icy  Strait.  It  is  eleven  o\'lo(d\. ;  hardly  a  passeiig(»r 
has  retired  for  the  night — night,  did  I  say  c  Night 
it  may  have  been  by  the  clock,  but  by  the  heavens 
it  was  a  night  of  continual  dav  Some  of  ns  liad 
determined  not  to  go  to  })ed  at  all,  and  the  C'a))tain, 
overhearing  this  heroic  resolve,  proni[)tly  place<l  both 
kitchen  and  i)antry  at  our  disposal,  an<l  joined  our 
party,  amiably  giving  us  the  names  of  the  mountains, 


I30 


A    UVJ/AX'S  TRIP  TO  ALASKA, 


II 


|i  ■^- 


W 


capes,  and  isljiiids  as  we  apin'oaclied  tlieiii.  I  knew 
not  liow  often,  if  v^ver,  the  scene  before  nie  liad 
been  viewed  to  sneli  advantau^e  by  others,  l)ut,  for 
myself,  I  felt  the  insj)ii"atlon  of  the  lionr  so  [)r()foundly 
that  I  could  scarce  believe  it  was  part  of  that  same 
earth  which  I  had  left  behind  me  but  a  few  l)r'ef  days. 
In  a  grouj)  of  a  dozen  or  twenty  people  among  whom 
I  stood  there  were  period  of  several  minutes,  I 
should  think,  when  not  a  word  was  uttered,  except, 
perha[)s,  a  half-sup[)ressed  exclamation  of  awe  and 
admiration.  For  my  part,  I  leaned  upon  the  I'ail  of 
the  ship,  peering  into  the  twilight,  every  now  and  then 
catching  a  glim[)se  of  some  new  wonder  in  the  distance 
and  trying  to  mcnild  it  into  form;  tilled  with  an  ecstasy 
of  amazement  and  surprise  which  I  had  never  before 
experienced  in  a  somewhat  adventurous  life.  Along 
the  horizon,  in  a  complete  semicircle  from  left  to  right, 
was  a  streak  of  golden  fire — that  kind  of  molten,  licpiid 
fire  which  pours  from  the  blast-furnace  in  the  night- 
time and  courses  its  way  through  the  gutters  made  to 
receive  it  in  the  clav, — and  where  the  snow  mountains 
broke  in  upon  its  lines,  it  lit  them  u[)  with  tints  of  the 
most  delicate  pink,  just  soft  enough  to  mark  their  out- 
lines aii'ainst  the  2:raA'-2:reen  twilight  l)evond.  And 
the  shades  of  this  twilight,  how  beautiful  and  delicate 
in  color  were  they !  from  the  deep  blue  which  bordered 
the  golden  horizon,  through  all  the  color  varieties  of 
the  aurora  borealis  to  the  faintest  touch  of  amber  and 
almost  invisible  green,  yet  all  lit  up  with  the  still 
lingering  beams  of   the   now   far-distaut  sun ;    while 


Ml 
[e 
hi 
l>f 
1(1 
II 
le 


/../  }rA(iiE  ])r  coLORisr 


131 


away  <»ff  in  the  northwest,  suspended,  as  it  were,  like 
a  l)ri<i:ht  electric  lii::]it,  over  the  coast  of  Asia  wjis  a 
single  planet  (I  know  not  ^^'hich)  struirgling  in  her 
silvery  purity  for  a  place  in  this  super!)  panorama  where 
none  of  Ihm'  lesser  sisters  dared  to  \'enture.  In  this 
surprising  effect  of  light  and  shade,  nature  gave  us  a 
wonderful  t^xani[)le  of  what  is  called  in  art  hi  )na<jie 
(hi  color IX.  And  thus  for  three  (»r  four  hours  did  one 
dav  resolve  itself  into  another,  without  the  inter- 
mediate night.  Those  who  went  to  bed  left  word 
witli  friends  to  call  them  when  thei'c  was  any  chaniije 
of  scene  or  incident  ;  others  dozed  in  the  social  hall, 
feai'ing  to  trust  themselves  to  sounder  sleeii ;  while 
manv  had  tlu  ir  chairs  and  blankets  brouy'ht  on  deck, 
where  at  intervals  they  refi'eshed  themselves  with  hot 
coft'ee  abundantly  su[)[>lied  by  the  obliging  stewards. 

It  was  the  "dawn 
of  the  morning''  on 
Satui'day,  June  7th, 
when    Ave    first    saw 
floating  ice  ;  a  piece 
about  the   size  (►f  a 
i'(^wd)oat   and  about 
tliH  same  sha[)e,  but 
it  was  lar<ii;e  enouijh 
to  serve  as  a  signal 
to  awaken   the  sleepers,  so  that  in  a  few  minutes  the 
deck  was  peo])le(l   with  a  motley  crowd,  in  all  kinds 
of    incomplete   costume,   from    a    shawl   and    skirt    to 
a  water  proof  and   a  pair  of  rubbers ;  we  hurriedh' 


■^'"^^^'^^iF'' 

■* 

^ 

^JagSii^^  . 

WS9^g^^ 

%f^.t^'»-'  '            ^i'w''mm^3Q^ 

1^ 

•-or 

tr::m^''  <i^Hi 

l|^ 

-T  *;'^- ■_:•:, i'  ^^■■li^^ 

1       ■ 

■^^■■iiaHk  "^JBHBB 

T  ■ 

{^A'odak'ii  liy  Miss  .]fargaret  IVatson.) 


m 

\x  ■ 


i 


\  H 


i/ji 


1       I 


i  ' 


!         il      I 


ii 


r 


Ik 


:[ 


132  .;  iroj/.LVs  TRir  ro  ai.aska. 

i^ot  (low  II  l()  oiii-  ii(»i-i!!,'il  coiiditioii  li(>\\('\ CI',  Mild  ill  a 
little  wliilc,  i'\  ('I'vIkmI}'  wjis  <>ii  <l('ck  nUircMl  'iov  the 
(lay,  and  Ixd'orc  tli<i  siiii  I'osc  we  li;id  jKisscd  wltliiii  view 
a  ii;la('i('i*  on  onr  left,  \vlii(di  in  tlic  distancu^  resembled  a 
river  suddenly  fi'o/eii  and  JM'ld  in  solidity  hy  the  \is{v 
grip  of  two  iol'ty  mountains.  Roiiiidini^  tlii^  ea[)e  and 
])artliin'  e(un|)any  with  tlie  heaiitifnl  l^\'iir\v<*atli(M-  Mount- 
ains,  wcai'e  now  in  (ilaeiiM-  I>a\  stcu'rini''  direeth  north, 
witli  tiuf  Heardsle(i  cluster  of  j)i('tur(^S(|iie  islands  on 
our  rlu^ht  and  strai^'L^liiii;*  icebergs  all  around  us.  Ahead 
of  us,  ill  the  distance,  is  \VillouL;hl)y  Island,  and  our 
strai<';htest  coui-se  to  the  Miiir  (ilacicM*  w  Mild  leave  this 
island  on  tln^  left,  but  thei'e  are  two  or  three  ver\'  in- 
terestinir   Li'laciers   on   the    west   coast   of    (i lacier   I^ 


'1 
which  (-aptain  (Jarroll,  with  characteristic  courtesy,  is 


anxious  we   should    s(^ 


e,    so    lie    inaKcs    lor 


tl 


le   narrow 


channel  Ix^tweeii  (Ik^  isl.-uid  and  th(^  W(^stern  shore.  It 
was  s(^ven  (Tclock  in  the  moriiini^  wIhmi  we  entere<l  this 
passa<.»;e,  wlii(di  I  should  jud^'e  was  perhaps  half  a  mile 
wide   and   I'our   miles  in    lenu:;th,    but   we   found    it  so 

densely   packed    with    iceber<'\s 


and 


float 


mir   lee 


that 


we   ( 


lid 


not  extricate  ourselves  from 
it  until  noon  ;  in  other  woi'ds, 
our  proii;r(^ss  was  at  the  rate  of 
about  one  mile  an  hour.  Those 
five  hours  were  full  of  intense 


1 


(^Kodak\{  l>y  Aulkoy.) 


1;    II 


f  ■'. 


interest    and     excitement    am 
sometimes    of    anxiety.       I    do 
no  injustice  to  Captain  Carroll 


i.u//)s/'  run  icnmiKCs. 


133 


wluMi  J  veiituic  the  hclicf  that  if  \\(\  Iuk!  known  the 
rwil  condition  of  \\w,  clianncl  he  would  liaxc  taken  tin; 
easterly  coui'se  ;  at  all  events  it  a\  as  ])atent  to  ('\ery 
one  on  hoard,  fi-om  tlie  prudence  with  which  the  shi]> 
was  handled  .and  the  ))!•(  .-autions  which  were  taken  to 
avei't  any  too  violent  collision  witli  the  ]nii,^e  Hoating 
masses  Nvliich  confi-onted  us,  that  the  occasion 
an   extraordinai'N'   onc^ 


Avas 


Til 


lese  icehei'ii's  wci'c  curious 
studies;  I  <li(l  not  fail  to  i-ealize  that  each  one  of  them 
outranked  in  a^'e  any  (►ther  nioviuLi"  thini;'  I  had  ever 
seen,  sav(^  jK'i'haps  the  moon.  IA)r  hundi'cds  of  years 
these  tons  and  tojis  of  sond  ice  have  been  slowly 
forciiiii;  theii'  way  down  to  the  temperate  waters  of 
the  Xoi'th  Pacific  Ocean,  hearing;'  upon  their  begrimed 
sides  ami  edges  tlu;  evidence  of  Ihtcc  struggles  for 
frecMJom  with  th<'  i"ockd)ound  passes  in  the  mountains, 
and  carrying  victoi'iously  aloft  tlu^  massix'e  gi'aiiite 
slabs  and  bouldei's  crunche(l  in  the  contlict.  'rhi(dver 
and  thi<-ker  gi'(^\v  the  sea  of  ice,  lai'nci"  and  more 
threatening  tlu'  bergs,  many  of  tliem  rising  to  the  level 
of  our  uptper  <leclv  and  grazing  the  shi])V  side  as  we 
slowU'  forixeil  ahead.  The*  atmosphere  to<>  i;i'e\v  thicdv 
and  threatening,  and  I  overheaid  the  ('aj)tain  mutter, 
Pretty  places  to  be  caught  in  a  fog,"  as  In^  ])eer<Ml 
anxiously  ahead  thi'ough  his  glasses.  Fort  unately  1  had 
unlimited  and  not  misj)lace(l  confidence  in  his  seaman- 
ship, otherwise  I  should  lia\'e  n\issed  the  exhilai'at ing 
sensation  with  which  tlu^  novel  suri'oundings  tilled  me. 
For  the  first  time  on  the  trip,  it  became  (piite  cold 


u 


an( 


I    di 


A' 


unn — overcoats    and    wraiKS    were    in    deman( 


ip 


d( 


il. 


?  I 


\  II 


ii 


f 


■  i 


u 


134 


A    WOMAX'S   TRIP  TO  ALASKA. 


find  tliost'  (»f  us  wlio  wtMv  fortunate  eiiouLjIi  t<»  rind 
room  U[)on  tlic  [>latforni  in  rear  of  the  InidLTc,  were 
treated  to  «'is  Ijcauliful  ji  specimen  of  skilful  sliip  steer- 
inii;  as  ean  l)e  iman'iiie(l.  The  (Captain  liad  l^een  at 
liis  post  from  the  time  we  left  Sitka  on  the  previous 
evenini::,  still  he  sliowed  no  siirn  (»f  fatiirue :  on  the 
contniry,  his  head  and  eye  nnist  botli  liave  ])eeii 
uncommonly  clear  to  have  broui^ht  so  larij^e  an  ocean 
ship  through  such  a  field  of  obstacles  without  the 
sliujhtest  accident.  I  know,  for  he  told  me  so,  that  he 
fully  expected  to  lose  one,  or  perhap^s  two,  blades  of 
the  })i'o[)eller,  and  I  could  see  by  the  contoi'tions  of 
his  face  as  we  thunqx'd  against  a  hundred  tons  of 
floating  ice  and  toppe<l  it  over  bottom  n[),  that  he  Avas 
not  (piite  sure  (►f  the  i-esult  when  tlie  gi'eat  ungaiidy 
mass  swung  back  again  toward  the  ship.  C'onstantly 
these  bergs,  as  they  s[)lit  in  lialf  under  the  j)row  of  the 
steamer,  I'olled  o\ei'  and  exposed  the  red  j)aint,  whicli 
too  plainly  told  of  blows  of  sharj)  contact  \\\\\\  our 
keel,  nuich  to  the  chagrin  of  Ca|)tain-  Cai'roll,  who 
avowed  lie  had  not  come  thei'e  "to  paint  Ghicier  Ray 
red";  in  fact,  he  chafed  at  every  chafe.  T  learned 
that  it  was  of  great  imp(^rtanc(^  to  keep  the  ship  con- 
stantly moving  ahead,  even  though  her  advance  could 
be  measured  only  by  inches,  so  that  I  contimially 
turned  my  eyes  to  s(mie  tree  or  rock  upon  the  shore  to 
judge  by  this  fixed  object  whether  we  wei'e  making 
progress,  for  the  curi'ent  was  carrying  the  ice  so 
fast  })ast  us  that  it  was  impossible  to  judge  whether 
the  apparent  headway  of  the  vessel  was  not  after  all  an 


!    * 


'<       I 


■■I 


\  \ 


'  I' 


>   rind 

were 

steer- 
HMi  at 

►n   ihi' 

l»e('U 
ocejiii 
It    the 
lint   lie 
xles  of 
ions  of 
oils  of 
he  ^vas 
igjilnly 
stJintly 
•of  the 
,  ^^  hieh 
itli   our 
11,   who 
ier  Bay 
learned 
lip  eon- 
•e  could 
tiniially 
shon^  to 

inakinii; 

'    ice  so 

^v]lether 

ter  all  an 


A   MOM/iX r  Ol'  AXXIlilW 


135 


illusion.  Once,  and  only  once,  we  came  to  a  deadsto[); 
the  surface  of  the  watei'  could  be  nowhere  seen ;  the 
narrow  channel  was  itself  a  glacier,  and  the  crunchini;" 
masses  of  huii'e  slahs  (►f  marhle  ice  which  choked  it 
piled  themselves  one  u]H)n  the  other,  like  shee[)  driven 
into  a  cuhde-mc  It  was  a  moment  of  some  anxiety. 
The  men  seemed  to  I'ealize  the 
peril  more  than  the  women,  for 
they  had  heen  intei'v  iewiiiL!:  the 
sailors  and  had  learned  that  no 
such  ice-tl(>w  had  heeii  encoun- 
tered since  Ca])tain  (-ai'ioll  tirst 
e\[>lored  tlies*^  A\aters  sevti? 
years  before.  AVe  \.  'men  did 
not  at  themomeni  compreiiend 
that    the   contact    of    the    pi'o- 

l)ellei'    with   one    of    these   bergs  {Kodak'd  hy  Author.) 

might  render  the  ship  entirely  helpless  in  a  place 
beyond  the  reach  of  snccor,  and  in  a  sea  \vliich  would 
pulveri/e  oiir  little  steam  launch  if  we  attempted  to 
use  her,  so  that  we  were  de])rive(l  even  of  the  ability 
to  search  fo!'  assistance  in  case  of  nee<L  Presently, 
however,  there  was  a  gentle  movement  of  the  machin- 
ery, a  little  commotion  among  the  icebergs  in  our  rear, 
a  grating  and  a  scraping  sound  \\hich  was  echoed  over 
tlie  entire  tield  by  the  crackling  of  the  disintegrating 
ice,  and  looking  again  at  my  hui(buark  on  tln^  shore,  I 
found  we  were  once  more  ])ushing  forward.  At  one 
time  the  (\'i]>tain  ran  half-way  up  the  foremast,  glasses 
m  hand,   and   for  soni<'   minutes,   like   the  picture  of 


-r-p'^^j^ 


.'i 


111 

1    _ '  il 


\\ 


!  I 


m 

r.-" 

I  ■[  '^i 

" .  \   i, 

h\         ( 

m  1 

1 

w 

Pi 

L  ■'  ■'> 

V    \            -.:    (■ 

Hi 

P     ; 

1. 

^•1 

'         \ 

1 

'            } 

I  \ 


CM, 

r 


n'l 


i 


136 


WOMAN'S  TRIP  TO  ALASKA. 


i  ':!< 


Farramit  in  Mobile  Bay,  .sliouted  liis  oiders  to  the 
w'lieel -house.  Tlien  again  resuming  liis  monotonous 
and  nei'vous  pacing  U|)on  the  ])ri<lge  from  port  to  star- 
1)oard  and  starl)oar(l  to  port,  he  steered  his.  immense 
vessel  with  such  dexterity  and  mathematical  ])recision 
that  as  the  cakes  of  ice  ^vere  upturned  and  fell  grace- 
fully into  our  Avake,  it  Avas  easy  to  see  that  the  course 
he  selected  was  the  one  of  least  resistance.  I  took  note 
of  a  few  of  the  expressions  whose  magnetic  intluence 
twisted  and  tui'ned  us  around  in  such  beautiful  curves, 
some  of  which  were:  "  Starboard,  sir  !"  "Slow  her!" 
"AVhy  don't  he  slow  her  Avhen  I  tell  him!"  "Stop 
her!"  "Go  tell  that  emj-ineer  if  he  don't  (jl^ey  the  sic:- 
nals  (piicker,  the  fii'st  thing  he  knows  he'll  Inive  one  of 
these  bergs  in  his  engine-room  !  "  "  I  lard -a- port,  sir !  " 
"  Port  her  !  "  "  Steady  no\v  !  "  "  Keen  your  eye  on  the 
compass  there  !"  "Put  an  extra  man  at  the  wheel!" 
and  so  on,  doubtless  conveying  to  the  persons  for  Avhom 
they  were  intended  volumes  of  instruction,  but  to  me 
nothing  but  the  sense  of  security  with  which  his  general 
watchfulness  inspired  me. 

In  the  midst  of  all  this  strain,  when  perhaps  the 
sli<i:htest  eri'or  of  iud<»:ment  mi<2:ht  have  been  fraui»:ht 
Avith  disaster,  the  chief  steward  (it  was  his  first 
voyage  with  (^a[)taln  Carroll)  was  seen  ascending  the 
ladder  with  a  bowl  of  nice  hot,  steaming  coffee  for 
our  able  conunander,  an  ho  at  that  moment  was  the 
cynosure  of  every  eye.  1  am  sure  e\^erybody  felt  proud 
of  that  steAvard  ;  Avanted  to  shake  him  by  the  hand; 
was   grateful  to  him;    Avondered   Avhy  they      hadn't 


-wiBEnsrs 


iM 


"  COFFER  ?  "     ''  NO,  THANKS  ! 


137 


thought  of  it  themselves.  ''I've  .)roiioht  you  a  euj) 
of  coffee,"  mihlly  wliispere<1  the  stewnrd,  witli  out- 
stretched IuukL  "  Take  it  away,  sir  I  AVHieii  I  want 
coifee  I'll  send  fo.-  it,"  sliouted  the  sklp[)er.  AVhat 
became  of  the  steward  T  don't  know;  l)ut  I  (h>  kn<  \- 
that  there  were  a  few  disjuncted  scraj)s  of  sentences 
floating  around  tlie  atmospliere  foi*  several  minutes, 
such  as  :  "  Nice  time  for  coifee  I — Port  her  ! — Steady  ! 
— Pretty  time  to  be  drinking  coffee  I — Starboard  a 
little  ! — Coffee,  indeed  I — Slow  hei',  sir  I — Slow  her,  T 
say! — (offee!"  It  is  proper  to  say,  however,  that 
a  fe\v  liours  later  the  poor  affrighted  steward  was 
addressed  in  huiguage  as  courtly  as  :  "I'll  tidve 
that  coffee  now,  steward,  but  don't  ever  bother  me 
again  when   I've  got  my  hands  full." 

Of  coui'se  it  is  very  difficult  to  convey  by  words 
any  ap[)recial)le  or  intelligent  idea  of  the  scene 
through  Avhich  ^ve  wei-e  passing,  nor  can  T  hope 
to  do  so  fully  by  the  aid  of  my  camera ;  foi'  I 
find  that  wdiere  the  ice  was  densest  the  atmosphere 
was  too  thiclc  to  secure  pi'ints  which  would  bear  repro- 
duction ;  still,  those  wdiich  I  obtained,  wdieii  the  fog 
lifted  in  spots  which  \vere  less  obstructed,  may  })er- 
haps  serve  the  purpose  measurably.  I  can  only  say 
that,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  in  all  directions,  the 
ocean  was  covered  witli  masses  of  ice,  varying  in  size 
from  that  of  a  large  house  to  that  of  the  morning 
supply  at  the  area  gate  after  a  mild  Avinter  ;  and  they 
were  of  all  imaginable  shapes — many  containing  deep 
caverns    wath    stalactite    roofs ;    many    honey-combed 


\  1  't  H  i 


\  ? 


I 


Vi 


<I'! 
'% 


I      J 


jL|' 


%i 


I3« 


A   IVOArA.VS  TRIP  TO  ALASKA. 


►    '  t      r:  s 


:\ 


\A 


through  and  through  like  liuge  white  coral  ;  Home 
assuming  the  forms  ot*  Incliau  tents,  churches,  stables, 
and  ships;  not  fantastic  creations,  but  so  marked  as 
to  attract  the  attention  of  the  whole  ship's  company. 
But  the  coloring  was  even  more  remai'kable,  the  pre- 
vailing tint  being  that  ex(piisite  blue  of  which  the 
turcpioise  is  ])ei-ha})s  the  only  s[)ecimen,  s[)()tted  here 
and  there  and  sometimes  half  clothed  with  a  covering 
of  sparkling  snow. 

When  at  last,  after  mucli  tribulation,  we  once 
more  reached  the  open  sea  ])etween  W'illoughby 
Island  and  the  entrance  to  Muir  Inlet,  for  miles  ahmg 
the  beach  of  Scidmore  Islan<l  were  stranded  a  chain 
of  these  excpiisite  tur([Uoise  gems  ^vhich  excited 
our  admivation  to  the  highest  pitch.  Far  over  to  the 
left  were  the  three  glaciers  in  whose  honor  we  had 
imssed  thrt)Uij:h  this  seji  of  troubles,  but  so  choked 
were  the  a[)pi'oaches  to  them  that  a  telescopic  view 
was  all  we  had,  yet  this  of  itself  was  worth  comiuii* 
for;  while  far  oif  towards  the  horizon  on  the  riu:ht 
were  clustered  together  a  scpiadrop.  of  iioating  pyra- 
mids, whose  white  sides  and  uniformity  of  shape 
brought  vividl}'  to  uiind  the  regatta  scenes  of  Newport 
and  New  London,  where  for  hours  the  fleet  remains 
at  anchor  waitino;  for  the  wind.  AV^e  are  now  at  the 
mouth  of  Muir  Inlet  :  the  great  glacier  is  in  front  of 
us,  but  only  in  faint  outline  as  yet ;  the  lunch  bell  has 
sounded,  and  we  are  told  that  before  the  meal  is  fin- 
ished we  Avill  be  at  anchor  within  the  shadow  of  this 
world's  wonder.     80  to  lunch  we  g^o  and  while  T  am 


V, 


TriR  yrrrR  cLAcrnR. 


t39 


tlieic,  you,  my  (Liiiu'liter,  may  fjimiliuri/t^  yourself  as  I 
(lid  with  what  lias  ah'cady  l)eeii  written  ot*  it,  which,  to 
save  you  much  trouble  and  research,  I  will  epitomize 
as  follows  :  The  Muir  (rlacier  is  situate  at  the  head  of 
Glacier  Bay  about  ei^ht  hundred  miles  from  Tacoma, 
our  startinm)oint.  It  is  one  of  niany  outlets  of  the 
enormous  field  of  ujlacial  ice  which  stellates  f  i"om  a  centre 
aliout  fifteen  miles  back  of  tlie  A[uir  front,  and  covers 
the  valleys  of  the  yet  unex[)loi'ed  mountains  between 
the  Paciti(;  Ocean  and  the  head-waters  of  the  great 
Yukon  Iliver  (said  to  be  the  largest  river  on  the  globe). 
The  area  wdncli  the  glacier  covers  is  as  yet  unknown, 
though  l)eyond  doubt  the  human  eye  can  follow  it  for 
a  distance  of  forty  miles,  look  across  it  fifteen  nules, 
and  has  located  sixteen  other  lesser  ij^laciers  which  are 
tributary  to  it.  It  derives  its  name  very  pro[)erly 
from  Prof.  John  Muir,  the  State  Geologist  of  California, 
who,  as  far  as  is  known,  was  the  first  white  man  to 
visit  it ;  Vancouver  and  the  early  navigators  and  ex- 
[dorers,  although  familiar  with  the  enormous  outfiow 
of  ice,  not  having  had  the  intrepidity  or  perha[)s  the 
equi[)ment  necessary  to  penetrate  beyond  the  entrance 
to  the  bay  (Captain  James  Carroll,  now  of  the  Queen, 
but  in  1888  conunandiuir:  the  Idaho,  beino;  the  first 
seanifui  to  a2)proach  within  reasonable  distance  and 
come  to  anchor  Avithin  full  view  of  it).  In  fact,  it  is 
only  eleven  years  ago  (187l>)  since  Professor  Muir  first 
saw  it  frcmi  an  Indian  canoe,  and  it  is  exceedingly 
doubtful  whether  five  thousand  white  j)e()[)le  all  told 
have  eiH'i'  seen  it,  though   I  have  little  doubt  that  a 


^' 


^ 


1  , , 


1 1' 


II 


11  nil 


a 


iil 


:•-    \ 


I    1 


1^ 


140 


A    IIVA/AX'S  TRir  TO  ALASKA, 


'\i « 


»    I 


L;"r(*at(M'  mimlu'r  tliaii  tli.'it  will  visit  it  aiiiiually  licre- 
after,  the  troiihle  of  iL!;<'ttinij^  tlicrc  hciiiji;  i'('<luce<l  to  a 
hixiii'V,  and  tlicj  I'esult  iiioi'c  <lt'li<ditfiil  tliaii  that  wliicli 
lias  ev<M'  vet  rewarded  the  searchei'  for  tlie  l)eaiitiful 
and  wonderful  in  nature. 

The  walls  which  bound  the  Muii*  Glaciei"  on  either 
Hide  vary  in  lieii!;lit  from  tliree  thousand  two  hun- 
dred to  five  thousjind  feet  a])ove  the  level  of  the 
ice,   and    where   the  slow-niovinijf  mass  einerujes  from 

'  or? 

the  jaws  of  this  vise  of  rock,  the  glacier  is  tliree 
miles  in  widtli  and  five  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  bay,  but  from  this  point  down  towards 
the  water  it  narrows  its  width  until,  at  the  water- 
front, it  ])ecomes  cloii-wd  between  the  barren  moraines 
which  it  itself  has  created,  and  finds  its  passage  to  the 
sea  limited  to  a  front  of  just  one  mile.  Its  facade  at 
this  point  is  in  some  places  three  hundred  and  fifty  or 
four  hundred  feet  above  water,  and  at  otliers  two 
huiub'ed  feet  (Captain  Carroll  once,  in  the  month  of 
June,  measured  it  with  the  sextant  and  found  it  to  be 
in  many  places  four  hundred  and  eighty-five  feet  high), 
and  as  there  are  from  eighty  to  one  Inindred  fathoms 
of  water  immediately  in  its  front,  and  the  ice,  of  course, 
does  not  iioat,  but  is  sunken  deep  into  the  bottom  of 
the  inlet,  it  may  safely  be  assumed  that  there  is  a  front- 
aire  of  ice  measuriiiij:  from  base  to  summit  bet^veen 
eicfht  hundred  and  one  thousand  feet.  It  here  breaks 
off  in  immense  })o(lies  weighing  from  one  to  five  hun- 
dred tons  each,  and  floats  with  the  tide  tow^ards  the 
ojien  sea,    disintegrating   and    melting   as   it   travels. 


11 


f  u 


riTF.  MVIR  (.r.ACfRR. 


141 


Owliii^  [)t'rli.'i|»s  to  the  fact  tlmt  tlu^  wjittM*  is  deeper  at 
the  centre  tlum  jit  the  suU's,  th(^  ghicier  jn'otrinh's  much 
fartlicr  at  this  point  than  in  tlu^  sliallower  water  near 
tile  sliores,  wliere  tlierti  is  more  resistance,  whicli  gives 
tlie  front  an  ii'regular  formation,  Homewliat  as  of  two 
concaV'  <  meeting  in  the  centre.  Two  interesting 
theories,  if  not  a])un(lantly  demonstrated  by  proof,  are 
at  all  events  accepte<l  as  true  hy  scientists,  viz. :  first, 
that  the  front  of  the  glacier  is  gi-adually  receding  from 
the  inlet ;  and  sec(»i(l^  that  the  mass  of  ice  itself  is  just 
as  surely  mo\'iiig  towards  the  inlet,  but  the  recession 
HO  far  exceeds  the  accession  that  there  can  be  little 
doubt  that  the  ice  in  some  [)ast  period  extended  to  the 
very  mouth  of  the  bay  itself,  and  that  Willoughl)y 
Island  owes  Its  present  1)arren  surface,  and  its  deep 
m'ooves  and  furrows,  to  the  action  of  this  verv  u'lacier. 
There  are  as  many  different  ex[)lanations  of  tikis  reces- 
sion as  there  ai'e  writings  upon  the  Hu])ject,  and  I  should 
be  out  of  the  fasliion  did  I  not  advance  an  additional 
pet  one  of  my  own.  It  is  well  known  that  the  salubrity 
of  the  climate  in  Puget  Sound  and  on  the  Noi-th  ]\acific 
coast  generally  is  due  to  the  warm  Japanese  current, 
producing  effects  similar  to  those  occasioned  by  the 
Gulf  Stream  on  the  Atlantic.  Tliis  curi'ent  Ijecomes 
charged  with  the  heat  of  the  tro[)ics  at  the  ecpiator, 
and  retains  it  in  its  noi-therly  course  through  the 
Orient  and  along  the  coast  of  Asia,  nntil  it  sweeps 
ai'ound  and  skirts  the  coast  of  British  Cohuubia  and 
the  State  of  Washington  on  its  return  home,  to  become 
again  surcharged  with  the  warmth  it  has  distributed 


i|i 


:!! 


I 


f42 


./    irOMAX'S   TKir  TO  ALASKA. 


Um  '^ 


\\ 


in  tlh'  coldci'  wntci's  of  the  NOrtli.  'I'ln*  s|>ln'r«»  nf  tliis 
vvjinm  stiTuiirs  action  nmy  Itc  widcninLC ;  widcnini:;  for 
tlu*  wise  pmpose  of  tluiwini^  out  a  wealth  of  soil  and 
metal  which  as  yet  is  not  nei'dcd.  It  may  take  cen- 
turies, perha[)s,  to  convert  the  valleys  of  the  mountain 
ramies,  now  i('e-eloL(i;('(l,  into  nourishinif  rivers,  hut  the 
process  may  he  iJ^oing  on,  and  if  it  is,  ]in  power  to  pro- 
duce it  can  be  more  potent  than  this  i^reat  trulf  stream 
of  the  PaciHc.  It  will  probably  never  be  ascertained 
how  lonix  a  time  it  1ms  taken  for  the  •'lacier  to  fall 
back  from  \Villoui!:hby  Island  to  its  present  ])osition, 
and  it  certainly  has  n«>t  yet  l)een  determined  with  any 
deujree  of  accuracy  at  what  i*ate  of  s[)eed  tln^  vast  body 
of  ice  is  inoviiii^  towai'<ls  the  ])oint  of  dissolution  ;  but 
it  is  i^enerally  ai^reed,  and  I  pi'esume  we  will  have  to 
accept  it,  that  foi'ty  feet  a  day  is  the  average  motion 
(by  averaufe  I  mean  that  it  mov«'s  twice  or  three  times 
as  fast  in  the  (rentre  as  at  tin*  sides).  Now  the  glacier 
being  oNcr  five  thousand  feet  wi<le,  and  at  least  eight 
hundred  feet  liigh,an<l  breaking  off  at  the  rate  of  foi'ty 
feet  each  day,  it  follows  that  one  hniidrcd  and  si.vty 
7nilJi()n><  of  ouhli  fWf  (>/'  icf'  hratk  off  f/'otn  the  facade  of 
tJie  yjair  Ghwicv  enertf  ttrtnft/-foiir  hours.  (Hereafter 
the  Swiss  mer  de  glace  will  have  to  be  pi'inted  in  ver)- 
small  ty[)e. )  Prof.  (1.  Fi'cderick  Wright  and  a  [)ai'ty  of 
scientific  friends  visited  tln^  glacier  in  August,  188r), 
for  the  purpose  of  making  investigations  of  its  glacial 
phenomena.  His  pa[»er,  [)ublislied  })y  the  Alaskan 
Society  of  Natural  Ilistoiy  and  Ethnology,  is  veiy 
interesting,  especially  u[)on  the  subject  of  the  recession 


_l 


/•//A    Ml'IR  CL.K'II'.K. 


143 


of  tli«  \('K\  front,  from  w  liicli  I  ('oiiclii(l(^  tliatcMcli  succeed- 
\\vf  veur  tlui  li'lorvof  its  iimiit'ii.sitAsoiiiew'liatiliiiiiiiislics 
Afte?'  stntliiL!:  liis  reasons  for  liis  faitli,  he  says :  "Tims 
tiu'i'e  can  he  n<>  reasonahle  (loiiht  (hat  dni'inu' tlie  earlier 
part  of  this  centnry  tlie  ice  filh'd  tlie  inhH  se\-eral 
miles  furthei'down  than  now.  iVnd  thei'e  can  scarcely 
1)(^  less  doubt  that  the  Lflacier  then  till<'<l  the  Iidet, 
1,000  or  1,500  feet  alxjxc  Its  present  level  near  tlie 
front."  And  to  tln)se  for  whom  fiLCures  serve  as  a 
i;nide,  I  may  add  upon  tli<'  authority  of  Prof.  Wright, 
as  follows:  "The  tot.-d  amount  of  watei*  which  in  some 
form  annually  |)asses  into  the  iidet  fi'om  the  1,200 
s(]uare  miles  of  icc^  which  conn)ose  tht^  i^lacier  is  2(57, • 
(;;i2,()40,000  cubic  feet;  of  this  amount  77,088,000,000 
feet  pass  in  the  form  of  ice,  with  835,47.'^,2.*i<)  fe«t  of 
sediment." 


•    M 


I       I 


i  i 


MUIR   CiLACIER    AT   A   DISTANCE. 
{Kodak\{  by  Author.') 


\ 


CHAPTER  X. 


<" 


I  \ 


THE  previous  chapter  liaa  briefly 
outlined  tlie  uiaiu  facts  witliiu  luy 
knowlediije  concerninij!:  tlie  Muir 
Glacier  wliicli  I  li ad  gathered  from 
luy  reading,  and  upon  which  I  had 
to  create  the  image  of  wliat  I  ex- 
pected to  see.  True,  I  liad  seen 
photogi'a[)lis  of  it;  yes,  and  I  had 
*''*ij  f/  seen  photographs    of  the   Canyon 

\  of    tlie    Yellowstone,   and  of    the 

Nevada  Ealls,  and  of  Niagara,  just  as  I  have  seen 
paste  diamonds ;  I  knew  their  wiiapes,  and  that  is 
all  I  ever  gathered  fi'om  their  portraits.  Neither 
the  ex[>ression  nor  the  com})lexion,  nor  the  sound  of 
the  voice  of  nature  are  to  be  found  upon  the  dull  sur- 
face <^)f  the  photogra[)li ;  you  simply  get  the  general 
lines,  some  of  the  shadows,  very  erroneous  perspective, 
and  that  is  all.  AVe  had  come  to  a  standstill  while  we 
were  at  lunch.  I  had  observed  the  slackening  of  speed ; 
next  tl)e  stoppage  of  the  machineiy ;  then  the  absolute 
stillness  of  the  ship ;  and  finally  a  darkening  of  the 
saloon.  AVe  were  evidently  at  a  halt  under  the  shadow 
of  some  innueiise  elevation.  A  passenger  on  tiptoe  looked 


s 


Tlfli  Ml'IK  CLACIIiR. 


'45 


tlii'oui^^li  tli(^  jM>i'Nli(.l(.,  Mild  iitt»'iv(l  ail  cxcluiiiatioii  of 
miia/eiiieiit :  then  uv  all  nislied  1(.  similar  apei'tures  ; 
(•liiii])e(1  on  tlic  cliairs,  looked  over  tlie  men's  slioul- 
<lei's,  in  fact,  did  all  kinds  of  iini'easonable  tliin«'-s,  and 
at  last  stampeded  u[)  tlie  companion-way,  to  tlie  deek. 
I  pray  Heaven  that  neither  age  nor  infii'mit\'  may  ever 
efface  from  my  memory  the  siglit  and  tlie  sen..ation  of 
that  moment.  To  say  tlia  '  vas  transfixed,  speecli- 
less,  fascinated  to  intoxication  hy  the  spell  of  tliis 
marvellous  development,  is  no  exaggeration.  Those 
who  i-eached  the  deck  first  seemed  paralyzed,  lialted, 
and  thus  l)locked  tlie  way  for  those  who  were  to 
follow;  others  kept  within  tlie  saloon  from  choice,  as 
thougli  they  dreaded  scmie  i)henomenal  convulsion.  I 
wedged  my  way  as  l)est  I  could,  after  the  fii'st  shock 
of  amazement  had  sul)sided,  iij)  to  the  very  l)ow  of  the 
ship. 

Upon  eacli  side  of  me,  half  a  mile  away,  rose  the 
same  old  mountains  which  I  liad  seen,  everywhere 
fi'oniTacoma  north;  at  my  feet,  the  same  Pacific  Ocean, 
))ut  in  front  of  me,  apparently  so  ch)se  that  I  couhl 
ahnost  reach  it  with  my  fingers,  the  [)erpen(licular  wall 
of  a  canyon,  not  of  rock,  nor  chi}',  nor  grass,  nor  forest, 
but  of  ice — a  wall  of  ice  a  mile  in  length  ; — and  when 
I  say  a  mile  \  mean  over  eighteen  hundred  yards  of  it ; 
and  when  I  speak  of  ice,  I  do  not  mean  the  sutty 
porous  stuff  that  lodges  in  the  valleys  of  the  Al2)s ;  T 
mean  the  verital)le,  pui-e,  clear,  crystal  ice  of  the  ice 
pitcher.  A  wall  a  hundred  yards  high  and  in  some 
places  towering  U2>  -'ui  additional  fifty  ;  a  wall  extend- 


r 

% 


li 


w 


r 


i^^ 


fi 


P? 


!»'      i; 


■|i! 


1  ' 


1^. 


»  i 


'  ') 


II  '; 


m 


o 

< 


c 

E- 

<: 


\"i 


\^ 


vJ  .J 


■  -— '— ^~— — — ^^ 


77//:"  }rnR  CLACfl'.R. 


T47 


ing  down  (lecjH'i-  ill  tlu^  occ.-ui  tliaii  it  rr.-iclies  ft-ojii  the 
ocean  to  tlie  sky, — liai'd  as  adamant,  sliai'[>  and  edij-ed 
like  tiint,  acjua-niarine  in  color,  dee[»eninn-  towai-ds 
the  \vat(M' into  in(liLi:o,  ti[>[)ed  on  the  snniniits  and  pro- 
jections with  a  fi*(>tli  of  snow.  If  I  did  not  know  that 
it  ^\•as  ice,  I  should  Ixdievt^  that  it  was  L^-lass.  If 
[  <lid  not  know  that  it  was  tlie  ^voI•k  of  tlie  (Cre- 
ator, I  sliould  believe  that  here  had  assend>led  a  con- 
vocation of  ai'chiteets,  \\  ho  in  theii"  collective  inL:;enuity 
had  rei)roduced  a  cond)ination  of  the  vlut'.'<-(V(VHi)re 
of  their  art;  f<>r  hei-e  were  tlie  butti'esses  of  the  l^n""- 
lish  a.l)])evs  and  Hsinu-  Inittresses  of  Xotre  Dame, 
turrets  of  tlie  Normans,  towers  of  the  eai'lv  Kn<dish, 
spii'es  of  the  cathedi-al  in  Cologne,  wondei'ful  unoccu- 
pied niches,  pilastei's  of  the  purest  wliite  marhh^  and 
green  malaclnte,  and  decorative  carving  and  liigh  polish 
worthy  of  Cellini.  It  was  a  cloudy  <iay,  yet  the  front 
glistened  Avitli  prismatic  splendor.  What  will  it  l>e,  I 
asked  myself,  if  in  the  afternoon  th«^  setting  sun  shall 
light  it  U[>^  But  ^ve  art^  too  cdose  to  it  for  our  own 
safety,  Ave  learn,  and  are  slowly  moved  ))ackhalf  a  mile, 
where  our  anchor  is  dro[)ped  and  preparations  are 
made  to  row  us  on  shoi'(^  to  climb  to  tlie  top  of  the 
glacier.  While  we  are  moving,  a  sharp  detonation 
rings  out  like  the  tiring  of  a  rifle,  and  one  of  the  beau- 
tiful s[)ires  on  the  crest  of  the  very  centre  of  the  wall 
is  shivered  into  atoms,  and  its  fragments  fall  an  itli  a 
splash  four  hundred  feet.  Later,  thei'e  is  a  report  as  of 
a  cannon,  but  without  result;  this  we  are  told  is  the 
parting  of  the  sea  of  ice   somewhere  far  back  in  its 


i« 


'•il 


5.         ) 

I    i- 


I4<S 


A    WOMAN'S  TRIP  TO  ALASKA. 


•I    '' 


I! 
I 


'I 


►.! 


t 


niouiitaiu  lioiiu';  presently  two  siinilar  explosions, 
evidently  right  close  to  iis,  f()llo\ve<l  by  rumbling 
echoes,  and  over  topples  ;i  huge  mass  weighing  tons, 
which  sinks  so  far  that  several  seconds  elapse  before  it 
rises  to  the  surface,  swaying  to  and  fro  until  it  finds  its 
equilibrium,  and  then  iioats  dowji  the  current,  one  more 
turquoise  gem  added  to  the  chain  which  [)recedes  it. 

And  this  continued  all  day,  sometimes  at  intervals 
of  seconds  only,  sometimes  of  half  an  hour,  and  when 
we  retired  at  night  the  explosion  and  the  splash 
became  as  monotonous  and  periodical  as  the  tinkling 
of  the  s' i'eet-car  bell,  or  the  footstep  of  the  passerd)y, 
does  at  home.  There  Avas  one  tremendous  bi'eaking  off 
towards  evening ;  the  sun,  as  we  had  hoped,  was  out 
in  full  glory,  and  at  the  distance  from  which  we  now 
viewed  the  ii-lacier  it  was  a  mountain  of  snow-covered 
ice,  cho])])ed  off  in  front.  For  many  miles  we  could  see 
over  and  bevond  the  facade,  as  thousj^h  lookinic  at  a 
great  I'ive]'  of  snow  ;  yet  the  facade  itself  Avas  a  face  of 
corrugated  emerald  I'efiecting  the  sun's  rays  at  every 
imaginable  angle,  and  changing  and  scintillating  Avith 
every  movement  of  the  ship.  Suddenly,  near  the 
centre,  the  top  began  to  incline  forward,  and  the  Avhole 
face  of  probably  twenty  yards  in  Avidth,  from  the  top 
of  the  glacier  to  the  bottom  of  the  bay,  fell  outwards 
as  a  ladder  would  fall,  Avithout  a  break  anywhere. 
There  Avas  a  tremendous  upheaving  of  the  Avater,  of 
course,  then  the  report  of  the  invariable  explosion 
reached  us,  ])ut  no  trace  remained  of  the  fallen  ice, 
save  the  swell  in  the  water,  Avhich  had  almost  reached 


r  'i 


'*»-^„ 


If 


TIT]'.  JfC/R  (;LAcf/:R. 


140 


:^0f 


ole 


jre. 
of 


,'iii<l  I'ocked  tlie  stejuiier.  I  do  not  kiio\v  how  miicli 
time  <'l;i[>se(l  l)Hfoi'e  tlie  l<>\t*ly  tiling  I'ose  to  tlu*  surface, 
])iit  it  seemed  ail  a^ce,  and  tlien  it  came  in  a  dozen 
pieces,  eacdi  of  tlie  same  exipiisite  diaplianous  l>lue, 
wliicli  as  they  ap[)i'oaclied  us  o:i*adually  cliaiiLred  to  a 
ch^ar  ti'aiisparent  saj)j)hii'(\  If  it  will  help  to  serve  the 
pui'pose  of  giviui^  a  just  idea  of  the  coh)Ssal  propor- 
tions of  the  scene  I  endeavor  to  descrilje,  h^t  me  say 
that  the  (\*i])itol  at  Washington,  tlie  City  Hall  in 
Philadelphia,  the  Cathedral,  E(piital)le,  and  th(^  ]\Lills 
Buildings  in  New  ^'ork,  and  all  the  inamnioth  news- 
paper offices  in  the  same  city,  might  1)e  floated  in  front 
of  the  Muir  (rlacier,  and  yet  its  emerahl  walls  would 
overt()[)  and  engulf  them  all.  As  a  contrast  to  all  that 
is  pure  and  (diaste  in  the  scene  l)efore  n' ,  there  I'ushes 
ont  from  the  eastern  end  of  th(^  <dacier  a  sul)-i»:lacial 
stream  of  thicdv  dirty  water,  much  resembling,  as  it 
boils  up  from  its  cavernous  outlet,  the  mud  geyser  of 
tlie  Yellowstone ;  this  is  a  perpetually  flowing  river 
cliaro-ed  with  sediment  and  dehris,  from  the  scouriuij 
process  produced  by  tlie  friction  of  the  moving  ice 
alon<»;  its  bed  of  rock  ;  it  i^ives  the  water  in  the  inlet  a 
thick  gray  color,  utterly  destroying  the  charm  of  its 
otherwise  transparent  charactei*. 

If  you  are  amiable  enough  to  say  that  what  I  have 
written  gi  js  a  sufficiently  correct  idea  of  what  you 
expect  to  see,  I  beg  to  differ  Avith  you.  Xo  camera, 
no  pencil,  no  vocabulary  can  do  more  than  produce  .' 
desire  to  see  for  one's  self,  t  can  only  say  that  it  has 
been    mv    fortune   to   behold   much   that   is  irrand   in 


iu\l 


v 


^ 


1,   I 


>^ 


■I  * 


r  i  J  r 


I 


)• 


\i 


150 


J    (r(9J//iA".S-   /Yv'//'  7Y?  J/.J.SA'J. 


nature  and  in  art  at  home  and  alu'oad,  iSnt  Oav  hours 
spent  at  Mnir  (irlacier  made  tln^  <i:r('at  event  of  my  life. 
If  (rod  spares  me  1  lio[)e  to  see  it  often.  And  feaiing 
I  might  1)(^  acens<'d  of  exaggerating,  which  is  far  from 
my  desire,  for  I  am  searcliing  in  vain  foi-  su[)erlatives 
wliieli  would  (h)  the  subject  justieti,  let  me  (piote  fi'om 
otliers  who  have  [)reeeded  me,  and  all  of  wliom  have 
esta])lislie(l   thrii-  re[tutation  as  autlioritics  : 

Miss  IvAiK  FiKLi)  sa\s  :  "In  Switzerland  a  «;lacier  is 
a  vast  bed  of  dirty  airdioled  ice  that  has  fastened 
itself,  like  a  cold  poi-ous  plaster,  to  tlie  side  of  an  Al[). 
Distant!^  alone  lends  enchantment  to  the  view.  In 
Alaska  a  iilaciei'  is  a  wonderful  toi'rent  that  seems  to 
liave  l)een  suddenly  fro/cn  when  about  to  plung(^  into 
the  sea.  .  .  .  Think  of  Niagara  Falls  fro/en  sti If,  add 
thirty-six  feet  to  its  height,  and  you  ha\('  a  slight  idea 
of  the  tei'ininus  of  Muir  (rlacier,  in  fi'ont  of  which 
your  steamer  anchors;  j>ictui'e  a  hackgrountl  of  mount- 
ains fifteen  thousand  feet  high,  all  snow-clad,  and  then 
iman'ine  a  i^orij^eous  sun  li'ditinn'  up  the  ice  crystals 
with  I'ainbow  coloring.  The  face  of  tlie  glacier  takes 
on  tlie  Inu'  of  a(pia-marine,  the  hue  of  (^erv  bit  of 
Hoating  ice,  big  and  littlt^,  that  surround  the  steamer 
and  make  navigation  serious.  Tlurse  dazzling  ser[)ents 
move  at  the  rate  of  sixty-four  feet  a  day,  tumbling 
lu'adlong  into  the  sea,  and,  as  they  fall,  the  ear  is 
startled  by  submarine  thundei',  the  echoes  of  which  re- 
sound  far  and  near.  Down,  down,  (h>wn  goes  the  ])erg, 
and  woe  to  the  boat  in  its  way  when  it  rises  again  to 
the  surface." 


k-. 


THE  MiiR  (;T..\cniR 


151 


to 


OiiAin.KsirALLiMK  ill  ••()||I•^^.^^  Alaska/'pp.  172-;^: 
"TIh"  oiacicr  wall  (.\ cilimii;-  us  witli  its  mighty  iiiaj- 
<'sty,    tliiee  times  the  liclglit  «.f  the  steamcr'w'mast,  or 
more,  and    we  se<Miie<l  iK.iie  too  far  away  to  escape  the 
coMstaiitly  eleavlug    masses   wliieli    d nipped   from    its 
face  with  (h-afeiiiugdetonatioiis.    Tlie  foam  whicli  i^^atli- 
ei'ed  from  the  impetus  of  the  phniges  sur<.-ed  upward 
fully  two-thirds  of  tlielieiu-litof  the  cliff,  auil  the  result- 
ing swell  tossed  the  large  steamer  like  a  toy,  aud  rolled 
upiiil)reakersofsui'f  upon  the  heach.   .   .   .'  Tlie -lacier 
is  l.y  no  means  smooth,  1)ut   is   seamed   and    riven   in 
every  part  by  clefts  and  fissures.      It  is  hollowe<l   into 
caverns   and    grottoes,  hung  with   massive    stalactites, 
and  fashioiuMl  into  j)imiaclesand  domes.      Kvei'v section 
an<I  configuration  has  its  heart  of  translucent*  Idue  or 
green,  intei'laced  or  l)ordered  ])y  fretted  frost-work  of 
intensest   white  ;  so  that  the  apj)earance  is  at  all   times 
gnome-like    and    su[)ernatural.   ...    I  cannot  ccmceive 
how  any  one  can  sit  by  and  contemplate  without  emo- 
tion the  stui)en(lous  throes  which  give  birth  to  the  ice- 
bergs,   attended    with    detonations  like  explosions   of 
artillery,  an<l  reverberations  of  thundei-  across  the  sky, 
and  tlie  mighty  wivckage  wdiich  follows  each  convul- 
sion.    Nevei-tlieless  I  have  seen  a  lady  loll  with  com- 
l)laisance  in   her  steamei-  chair,  comfortably  wrajjped 
for  the  chilly  air,   and  <d)serve  the   astounding  scene 
with  the  same  languid  contemplation   that  she  would 
discuss  her  social  fixtuivs  and  appointments.    Zoumls ! 
I  ])elieve  that  such  a  human    negation   would    calndy 
view  the  wreck  of  worlds,  and  hear  the  crack  of  doom 


^  i 


t.\ 


ii 


* 


152 


A    IVOMA.V'S  TRIP  TO  ALASKA, 


at  tlie  tinul  I'enderiiig,  if  it  did  not  ufl't'ct  "lier  set." 
Slie  coidd  wiitcli  at  a  siiital)le  distance  tlic  au'ony  of 
Clii'istian  inartyi's,  tlic  (.•arnn<j:e  of  o-reat  battles,  tlie 
sweep  of  cyclones,  tlie  diluvial  submergence.  Dyna- 
mite would  not  ap[)all  liei',  but  to  me  it  would  be  the 
acme  of  satisiaction,  ineffably  supreme,  to  startle  such 
clods  of  inanition  by  a  cry  of  mouse,  and  electrify 
them  into  a  momentary  emotion.  No  vinjiiujrette  would 
ever  mitiijate  the  sliock.'' 

Maktin  M.  BALLoirin  "The  New  El(h)rado — a  Sum- 
mer Joui'ney  to  Alaska,''  p]>.  276-7:  "Tlu^  roar  of 
artillery  ii[)()n  a  battle-field  could  hardly  be  more 
deafening  or  incessant  than  were  the  thrilling  re])orts 
caused  by  the  faHin<i:  of  vast  masses  of  ice  from  the 
glacier's  front.  Nothing  could  be  grander  or  more  im- 
pi'essive  than  this  steady  l)ond)ardment  from  the  ice 
mountain  in  its  resistless  progress  towards  the  sea. 
Neither  Norway  nor  Switzerland  have  any  iijlacial  or 
x\i'ctic  scenery  that  can  approach  this  bay  in  its  frigid 
s})len(h)r.  .  .  .  The  author,  in  a  varied  experience  of 
many  ])arts  of  the  world,  recalls  but  two  other  occa- 
sions which  affected  him  so  ])owerfulIy  as  this  first 
visit  to  (llacier  Bay  in  Alaska,  namely,  witnessing  the 
sun  rise  over  the  vast  Ilimalavan  ran^-e,  the  roof-tree 
of  the  iJ!:lobe,  at  Darsfellini]:,  in  Nortliern  India,  and  the 
view  of  the  midnight  sun  from  the  North  (^ape  in 
Norway,  as  it  hung  over  the  Polar  Sea.  Our  ])()wer  of 
appreciation  is  limitless,  though  that  of  description 
is  circumscribed.  Here  l)oth  ai'e  challenged  to  their 
utmost  capacity.      Words  are  insufficient,  ])en  and  pen- 


'"■      ; 

I 

.»||; 

i'-' 

i 

^(BMs'' 

^ 

mmmm 


Till-:  Mr  IK  CI.  AC  I  UK. 


153 


cIl  iM.*i(le([iiat(*  to  convey  the  giuiidcui'  ainl  rasciiiatiou 
of  the  scene." 

^[us.  E.  K.  SciD.MoiiK  in  ''Journeys  in  Alaska": 
"  A\alanclies  of  cruni])ling  ice  and  ^'I'cat  [)iec('s  of  the 
front  were  continually  falling  with  the  roar  and  crasli 
of  artillery,  revealing  new  caverns  and  I'ifts  of  deeper 
blue  light,  while  the  spi'av  dashed  hi<di  and  the  <''reat 
waves  rolled  along  tlie  icy  wall,  and  widening  in  their 
sweep,  washed  the  blocks  of  Hoating  ice  up  on  the 
beaches  on  either  side.  .  .  .  Tlie  nearer  one  ap- 
proached, the  higher  the  ice  w;dls  seemed,  and  all 
along  the  front  tliere  were  pinnacles  and  spires  weigh- 
ing several  tons,  that  seemed  (mi  the  point  of  toppling 
every  moment.  The  great  buttresses  of  ice  that  rose 
first  from  the  water  and  touched  the  moraine,  were  as 
solidly  wiiite  ms  marble,  veined  and  streaked  with 
rocks  and  mud,  but  furtlier  on,  as  the  pi-essure  was 
greater,  the  color  slowly  deepened  to  tur([Uoise  and 
sapphire  blues." 

Ai.KXAXDKu  Badi.am  ill  his '^  AVonders  of  Alaska,'' 
]>.  42,  (piotes  Prof.  Muir  himself  as  saying,  that  the 
front  and  Ijrow  of  the  glacier  were  "dashed  and  sculpt- 
ured into  a  uiaze  of  yawning  chasms,  ravines,  canyons, 
crevasses  and  a  bewildering  chaos  of  architectural 
forms,  beautiful  beyond  tlie  measure  of  description, 
and  so  l)ewildering  in  their  beauty  as  to  almost  make 
the  spectator  believe  liti  was  j=evelling  iii  a  dream." 
"There  were,"  he  said,  " gi'eat  clusters  of  glistening 
spires,  gables,  obelisks,  monoliths  and  castles,  standing 
out  boldly  against  the   sky,  with  bastion   and  mural, 


)       ! 


! 


. 


1 


i  L 


h 


'1 

i.f 

F ' 

^■'t 

'       M'       ' 

D 

•i 

'         1 

1 


\  " 

i 

r  t 

dt  1 

J  54 


.1    irOA/.Ly\S  TRIP  10  ALASKA. 


sui'iiiomitt'd  ])V  f'lvtt^Ml  c'oniict',  and  cvci'n  interstice;  and 
c'liasiii  ivtU'ctiiis^  a  slieeii  of  scintillating'  liu'lit  and  <lcep 
])luc  sliadow,  niakiiiL!;  a  c()nd)inati<)n  of  cului",  <la//,ling, 
startling',  and  eiiclianting/' 

The  next  sensation  in  store  for  the  tourist  is  tlie 
clind)  to  the  top  of  tlie  o-l;iciei'.  All  the  row -hoats  were 
lowered,  and  ahont  a  (h)/en  ]>asseiiii;ers  in  ejich.  armed 
witli  alpenstocks,  were  ferried  in  successi\'e  oron]>s 
from  the  sliij)  to  the  easterii  ])eacii,  a  distance  of  pei'- 
lia[)s  half  a  mile,  instructions  l>eini;'  i^'iven  to  each 
steersman  to  kee[)  a  sharp  look-out  for  falling  icebergs. 
iVnd  here  your  trou))le  commences  unless  you  are  well 
advised.  The  ascent  is  exceedingly  ditlicult;  wliat 
looks  like  a  mt)untain  of  rock  over  \vhich  you  must 
wend  vour  wav  to 
the  ice-tields,  is  really 
a  mountain  of  ice 
covered  })y  a  layer  [' 
of  slimy  mud,  crust- 
ed with  pieces  of 
flintv  irranite,  stand- 
ing  u})  on  end  like 
broken  bottle  trlass 
on  the  to^)  of  a  wall. 
I  woi-e  india-rubber 
high  boots  when  1 
started,  and  I  need- 
ed crutches  l)efore  I 
finished.  Tt  may  l)e 
chilly  as    you  leave 


TIIK  ri.iMr,, 


Miss  J/.    lValsoii.\ 


\\  i 


iHQHta 


\\ 


TJll-    l\  V  ( )!■  Ml  IK  (,7..l(  ll'.K. 


"» -I 


tlu^sliii),  a('C(>i-(liiin"a><  tlic  sum  iii;i\-  he  out  <»r  in  ;  ifcliilK, 
g<'t  V(»ui'('sc(»i't  tncai'i'v  ail  ex  Ira  shawl  t'«>i-  \(Hi  ((»  w  I'ai  > 
yoiirselC  in  when  yoii  row  hack  (o  tlic  sliip  ;  if  tlu? 
wpatli<*r  is  briglit  and  wai'ni,  dot  In*  yoMi'sclC  liuiiiU',  for 
it  gi'ows  warnici'  with  tiic  ^lai'i;  IVoin  tlic  ice  and  iIk^ 
pliysical  cxcilion.  He  very  carcfnl  wlicrc  youstf]),  and 
if  you  are  wise,  FoIIoan'  in  llic  footsteps  of  otliers; 
do  not  undertake  to  lead,  else  one  foot  nia\  he  trN'iii"" 
to  aseei'tain  tlu^  deptli  of  a  (]uai;-inire  and  the  (ttlier 
exploi'injj^a.  Hssure.  Aftei-an  ascent  of  [)ei-1ia[>s  two  and 
a  half  miles,  which  seem  more  like  ten,  \'ou  will  tind 
youi'self  on  the  e(lo;e  of  a  fi'o/en  sea,  fi'ozen,  as  it  were, 
wliile  in  tlie  throes  of  a  tenij»est,  a,  hay  of  storm-tossed 
waves  solidified  as  hy  a  sii;'nal  :  and  tliis  extends  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach  Uj*  into  the  mountains  towai'dstlie 
north,  and  se\'ei-al  miles  across  to  the  hills  n[»on  tln^ 
opl)osite  slioi-c.  The  ice  is  by  no  means  clear  or  Krilliant, 
on  the  conti'ai\-  its  color  Is  milk\'  and  its  foi'ination 
]ione\-cond)ed,  plastic,  i)orous,  and  xieldinL!- to  the  tread  : 
l)esides  which  it  is  l)esnieare<l  with  sediment  from 
mountain  thaws  which  have  ti'aversed  its  rifts,  and 
disfigured  by  fallen  logs  and  drift-'Aood.  [  confess 
that  if  r  visited  AEuii'  Glacier  a  hundred  times  I  should 
always  remain  on  deck  and  watch  the  [)yrotechnics  of 
the  facade  rather  than  undergo  the  thankless  fatiniie 
of  clrnbing  to  the  top,  which  is  inPiiiiteiv  moiv  labori- 
ous  than  the  ascent  of  AVsuvius  on  foot  throu<»-h  the 
lava,  or  any  work  to  l)e  done  on  the  trails  of  the 
Yoseuiite.  To  those  ^vho  ai'e  willing  to  undei'take  it, 
however,  I  suggest  that  when  the\   Innc  ascended  tlie 


'       H 


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^BBBHiSi 


r 


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II 


m 


ly 


llf; 


H. 


H 


J,     .  i ; 


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l-l  1    ^'  ( 


u. 

c 

c 


iHa 


■at 


11 


run  ror  01'  MriR  clacii'.k. 


i; 


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/ 


/ 


/ 


.■■w".  V 


•■■:^^^, 


■n< 


'■:^-:%--^-i^ 


**'e 


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c 

&. 
c 

U 


ON   M^w—ih'oUid'il I'V  J//s.f  JA/r-,?;v/  U'.i/soii.) 

first  mile,  wliicli  will  ;il»(.iit  ln'iim'  iIkmii  on  ji  line  witli 
tlic  to])  of  the  \\"d\\  of  tlie  glaficr,  the>'  should  look 
back  at  tlieir  little  tim'  ship,  floatiiiii;  like  tlie  M(ti<l  of 
the  Mist  beneath  Xiaii-ai'a,  to  fullv  realize  the  iinnieitse 
pi'o[)orti()ns  of  the  u^laeiei'. 

It  is  said  that  persons  ha\'(!  been  missed  and  never 
ai;'ain  found  wlio  made  tliis  aseent,  and  1  know  that 
at  lejist  one  case  is  authentic,  that  of  a  \()un<»'  clei'iiv- 
man,  who,  straying  away  fi'om  his  companions,  was 
mn'er  again  seen,  though  the  most  diligent  search  ^vas 
ma(h^  foi*  him  by  his  fi-iends  and  the  shi])'s  ci'ew. 
A  sli])  into  one  of  those  crevasses,  \vliich  is  covered 
by  a  thin  coat  of  ice,  means  to  be  [)recipitated  in  an 
instant  to  a  de))th  ^\hel•e  no  human  aid  can  reach  aou. 
\\\  fact  I  Avould  advise  all  who  wish  to  preserve  the 
impression  of  ^[uir  Glaciei*  in  its  pure,  idealized, 
unsullied  grandeur,  to  stay  aboard  and  gaze  on  its 
beautiful  face.  It  is  a  Persian  custom,  aftei*  pluck- 
ing the  fruit,  to  tear  it  asunder  in  the  miihlle,  hand 


i 


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tlu'  siiiiiiy  side  to  tlic  IViciid  mihI  llirow  tlic  otlicr 
lalf  ;i\\';i\',  llu!  hcst  portion  Ixmiil!;  tlie  only  j)ai't  Li'ood 
('lloll^•]l  for  tliosc  tlu'N'  love.  It  is  my  duty  to  pi'cstMit 
to  \()ii  tlie  l)ett('i'  half  of  the  Lclacicr  and  to  cast  a\\a\' 
the  other.  Tired,  footsore,  and  inu(hly,  we  \\'ere  all 
early  in  lu'd,  and  while  do/inii;  to  slee])  I  Nvas  inueh 
impressed  with  the  awfid  stillness  of  the  honr  ;  e\-ery- 
l)ody  had  retiied,  not  ':^veii  the  tread  of  the  man  on 
\vat(di  was  heard,  the  very  iiiaidiiuerv  was  sleeninu",  l»nt 
every  now  and  then  there  was  a  splasli  and  a  I'eport 
and  an  eelio  that  broiiu'lit  with  them  the  [)roof  that  the 
foi'ees  of  iiatiii'e  were  ever  awake,  and  that  what  was, 
"is,  ami  ever  shall  be,  wt)rl(l  Avithout  end." 


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■v^ 


ClLVrTKU  XI. 


MlElwK   was   no    liuiTv  to  1h'  u|)  jiikI 
otV    on    Sunday    niorninu',  .lune   sili. 
Wlien    I   awoke   we  v.eiv  still    lyin^- 
nt  anelior  in  front  of  tlie  glacier,  and 
I    was  told    l»y    my    fellow-} »assenovrs 
that    an    immense    sliee    of    the    wall 
had     yielde<l     to     the      invssure     and 
jumped  overd.oard  during-  the  niu'ht.     And 
when  I  eauieon   deck    I   saw   this   must    l»e 
so,  for  a   l>ri,uht,  new   -reen    surface^    to    the 
u-l  front   was    presented,    entiivly    free   from 
tlie  snowdrifts   which   I    ha<l 
seen    there    yesterday,     and 
there   were  many  more  Hoat- 
ino-  bergs  than   when    I   ha<l 
retired       AVe  now  dropjuM 
down  the  hay  a  mile  or  two 
hito  the  held  of  iee  again,  ..nd 
for  two  or  three  h(»urs   occu- 
pied our  time   in   tilling  the 
liold  of  the  shi))  with  beauti- 
ful  spai'kling    blocks    of    it, 
about  fortv  tons,  which    was 


[/•';v/,v  A'oi/a/c  hv  Miss  M.  D.  Bcadi.) 


lilf 


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J  ir()j/.L\'s  I'Kir  ro  ai.aska. 


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to  last  t  lie  slii]>  for  all  ]iiir|)(»>cs  mil  il  she  ret  unicd  aLi'aIn 
in  two  weeks,  A  couple  <»r  l)i)ats  were  lowered  r.iid 
niaiiiKMJ  witli  sailors  armed  with  picks,  jiooks,  and 
axes;  tliese  men  first  sliape(l  tiie  ice  while  in  the  ^^■atel* 
and  elio[)pe(l  away  the  crusts  (»!'  sn(»w,  the  l)locks  heino" 
then  liauled  on  l)oard  and  lowered  into  the  hold. 

It  was  near  noon  wlien  we  l)ei;'an  to  turn  our  i>acks 
on  this  lake  of  tin'  LCods  and  steamed  aloiiii'  the  shores 
of  Scidniore  Island.  A  moi'e  perfect  (hiy  never  slione 
from  tlie  heavens;  tluM'e  Avas  not  a  s[)eck  of  clou<.l  any- 
wliere ;  [)oets  and  painters,  educaJed  in  the  foi;'s  of 
L()n(h»n,  wlio  N\rite  al)()Ut  and  paint  tlie  sunny  skies  of 
Italy,  nevei'  saw  sucli  an  atnios[)liere  as  tliis  ;  the  air 
was  wai'm  and  1)alm\-,  tlie  hreeze  invin'ofatinij:,  and  the 
l.tosom  of  the  deej)  blue  sea  here  and  there  Ix'jew clh^d 
with  the  emeralds,  opals,  pearls,  and  tur(pn)ises  that  had 
fallen  from  th(i  nM'eat  to^\■(M's  of  ice  w  hich  now  recei\ed 
our  sad  farewells  and  our  hopeful  piomise  to  r(4urn. 
On  our  I'ig'ht,  loom  U[)  the  wonderful  i^'airweather 
i-ange  of  White  Mountains,  which  (\a[)tain  Carroll  had 
held  in  reserve  foi'  us  until  this  aus[)ici()us  moment. 
The  farthest  })eak  is  Mt.  Fairweather,  hoastin^'  an 
altitude  (Mpial  to  ^^t.  I>lanc,  of  over  ir),()()0  feet  ;  a  little 
closer  to  us  is  A[t.  ('rillon,  reachiiiL:'  towards  heaven 
almost  1(),00()  feet;  and  nearer  still,  Mt.  LaPeroiise, 
ll,-')00  feet, — all  connected  1)\-  a  lonij;  chain  of  lesser 
ones,  forming  an  immense  i-aiige  ])er])etually  c(>^ered 
with  suow  of  the  purest  wdiite.  On  our  left  is  Scidmore 
Island  elad  in  midsunnuc!*  verdure  fragrant  witli  straw- 
berries and   wild    tlowei's,  and    musical    with   feathery 


^- 


LAKi-  >v-  /■///:  cons. 


lOi 


soiii;-;    in   front,  tlie  ever  [)ljici(l  ocean,  wliose  marvel- 
lous  transparency   attests    Its  depth;    and    tlie    whole 
anij)hitheatre   bounded   h\   a   circle   of    majestic    liills 
clad   in   their  royal  i)uride.      I  wish  J  couhl  renuMuher 
the  beautiful  words  with  which  the   Rev.  Dr.  ^^iifaiiy 
likened  it  to  the  gh)rious  portal  of  a  futuiv  life.      I  do 
i'emend)er  that  a  gentleman  standing  near  me  remarked 
*' I  did  not  l>elieve  (to(1  ever  made  any  thing  so  beauti- 
ful as  this,"  to  which  I  involuntarily  re[)lied,  but  i  am 
sure  not  irreverently,  "  I  did  not  believe  that  Tie  rr>//A/." 
I  shall  never  again  experience  such  a  day  {is  tliati  I'he 
same  sight  undei"  the  same  favorable  conditions  would 
hardly  again  impress  me  as  did  the  startling  novelty  of 
this  iirst  view  of  it.     And  to  think  that  it  has  existed 
for  thousands  of  years,  and  the  present  decade  hasl)een 
tlie  first  to  see  it.     Pi<-tui'e  to  yourself  all  that  you  can 
recollect  of  the  Hudson,  the  Danube,  and  the  Rhine  ; 
carry  your   mind   away  up  into  the  fiords  and   rocky 
coast  of    Norway;  ])ut  the  little  Swiss  im^r  <lr  (jlaee 
under    a   microscope ;   think    of    the    Matterhorn,  the 
Jungfrau,   Mt.    Blanc  and    the     entire   Bernese  Alps; 
make  oiieMake  of  Maggiore  and   all   her  sisters;  and 
still  this  Lake  of  the  Gods,  as  I  w^oidd  liave  it  muned, 
out-pictures  it  ;dl  a  hundred-fold.     The  day,  the  scene, 
and   the  mood  were  all   in  harmony  for  recognition  of 
the  Divine  beneticence  which    had   given    us  life   and 
healtli  to  behold  ITis  glori(ms  works,  and,  acc(»rdingly. 
Dr.    Tiffany    was    requested    t(»    hold    Divine    service, 
which   he  cheerfully  consented  to  do  at  three  o'clock  ; 
but  just  as  tlie  hour  was  arriving  we  sighted  asteamer 


„.»»L.  ■^..^.  ,»^'      ■.* 


1 62 


A    WOMAN'S  TRIP  TO  ALASKA. 


i:l 


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jiliead,  wliicli  proved  to  l)e  our  old  friend  the  Pinta., 
\\  liicli  ^^■e  liad  left  at  Fort  AN^raiigell,  and  as  we  liad  on 
1)oard  news  fi'oni  tlie  lonely  ^^ives  and  cliildren  at 
Sitka,  l)otli  ships  slaekened  speed,  l)oats  were  lovveied, 
and  the  glad  tidings  of  good  liealth  at  Lome  ^vere 
boi'iie  to  tlie  anxious  mariners.  Toaeeompli-;]i  this  Dr. 
Tiffany  posti)oned  the  service  until  a  later  hour,  and 


Till'.    TKl'.ADWKI.l.   COM)    MINES, 


-^       M 


wlien  we  at  last  assembled,  1  am  sure  a  yxxw  spirit  of 
sincere  thanksiiivinij:  pervaded  the  entire  comj^reixation. 
It  was  in  the  niglit-time  that  we  rounded  Dome  Peak, 
entered  the  Lynn  Canal  and  headed  foi* Douglas  Island, 
wliicli  ^ve  reached  on  Monday  morning,  June  9th,  just 
one  week  from  Taconia.     AVe  would  have  passed  right 


Tim  rRi'.Ainvi'.LL  d^/.n  .i//.\V: 


163 


on  to  Jmu^aii,  whk'li  is  in  siglit  ii  litthi  fju'tlicr  to  tlu^ 
iiortli,  hut  there  is  soiiietliiiii^  "*'*''■}'  ''^^  'restiii;;'  wliicli 
W'c  must  go  .'isliore  to  see,  H(>  ^^■e  are  tie(l  up  to  a  long 
wluu'f,  tlie  gang-plank  is  tlii'own  out,  and  tlie  same  old 
procession  m(>ves  out  ;  tliis  time  to  visit  tlie  Alaska 
Conipany^s  gold  mine  (commonly  called  tlu^  'J'l'eadwidl 
Mine).  »Iolni  Treadwell,  a  San  Francisco  l>uildei', 
]>()Uglit  this  ])roperty  in  1S81  from  a  ])rospector,  of 
wlioni  a  fail-  estimate  may  be  formed  In  the  fact  that 
he  NNas  known 
onl)'  as  "  French 
Pete."  Tlie  price 
A\'as^400,  and  for 
some  time  sul)se- 
(pienth'  it  was 
operated  as  a 
placer  iuin<  the 
character  <»f  <»''e 
\'isil)le  1  -y.  i 
a7u  told,  what 
is  scientiiically 
known  as  decomposed  (piai'tz.  Treadwell  sold  part 
of  his  interest  to  others  at  a  larg(i  advance;  and 
to-day  this  (piarry  of  gold  produces  an  income  of  halt' 
a  million  of  dollars  every  year.  From  our  fellow- 
passenger,  ZsVv.  Bernhardt,  I  gathered  the  information 
(foi*  I  don't  know  a  thing  about  mining)  that  it  is 
what  is  called  a  h)w-2:rade  ore,  and  owini>'  to  the  im- 
mense  water-power  in  the  vicinity,  the  ])roxImity  of 
the  ocean,  and   the  fact   that  there   is   no  exj)ense  of 


H 


.■aii-:.*./*.*.    -^ 


-A    WIIOI.E   CJLAKRV    OF   i'.^)\A). 


""^r 


164 


/    W'OMAX'S   TRIP  TO  ALASKA. 


1^      . 


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sliaftiiiL;'  ;iii(l  (umiclliiii:',  it  costs  less  X\\\\\\  two  dollai'S 
})er  toll  to  produce  tlic  luillioii  IVoiii  tlic  rock,  niid  tliat 
six  liiiiidrcd  tons  nic  ^workcd  cacli  <l.'iy,  of  tlic  xaliu^  of 
from  four  to  six  <lollai's  per  ton.  We  went  all  through 
tlic  works,  visited  the  (piari'V,  hunted  aroiind  for  nug- 
gets l)iit  did  ii<>t  tind  any,  and  were  taken  into  the  mill, 
where  two  hundred  and  ('(H'ty  staiii})s,  as  tliey  are 
called,  are  hammering  like  so  many  sledge-hammers, 
luakiiii''  such  a  noise  that  \'ou  litc^'allv  cannot  hear 
yourself  speak,  and  creating  suc.i  a  vibration  that  you 
dance  around  like  those  bits  of  cork  with  horsediair 
legs  which  children  plav  with  on  the  drum  of  a  [)iano. 
One  gentleman  exclainuNl  as  he  emergetl  :  "  That  is  the 
first  place  I  have  ever  been  \vhere  my  wife  can  talk  to 
me  without  making  me  liear/'  (Of  course  h<'  did  not 
refer  to  me;  if  lie  had  I  would  have  made  mvself  felt.) 
Ilavinu'  seen  everv  tliiiiii"  of  interest  at  tlie  mine,  ex- 
eepting  the  gold  ingots,  tliey  having  all  Ikhm)  shi[)ped 
a^vay  in  a  j)revious  steamer,  we  moved  on  to  Juneau,  a 
coui)le  of  miles  distant,  passing  the  "  IVar's  Nest ''and 
one  or  two  other  gold  mines  which  are  as  yet  in  embryo. 
Juneau,  like  Sitka,  is  nestled  at  the  foot  of  a  ranges  of 
sheltering  mountains.  As  I  ap[)roached  it,  \  wondeivd 
wliat  would  become  of  the  adults  if  the  small  ])ovs 
slioiihl  take  it  into  their  heads  to  bombard  them  with 
snowballs  from  the  to[)s  of  the  mountains,  which 
a])ru[)tly  rise  two  thousand  feet  from  the  end  of  every 
street.  I  consider  Juneau  as  prettily  located  as  any 
city  T  liave  ever  seen,  and  when  the  rich  fields  of  o'ohl 
Nvhich  surrouiul  it  are  deveh)])e<l,  it  will   very  likelv 


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J    irOJLLV'S   TRIP  TO  A  I. ASK  A. 


.'itt.'ilii  niiicli  coiiiiiK'i'ci.'tl  proiiiliKUU'c.  Fi'oiii  ;ill  I  i-oiild 
i;atlu'i-  I  li.i\(^  littl(Ml()ul)t  that  the  liistory  <>l' C/iilifoniia 
will  1)('  icpc.'itcd  ill  this  vicinity;  the  place  is  full  of 
sju'ciilators  and  pi'(>s[u*c'tors,  many  of  the  latter  having 
good  ''clainis"  for  sale,  but  at  very  high  j)rices.  The 
owners  seem  to  ha\'e  unlimited  cositidence  in  their 
"  finds,"' and  are  certain  that  tliey  will  get  theii'  pi'iee 
!)>'  th(^  exei'cise  of  patience;  but  in  the  meantime  they 
lead  an  improvident,  from  hand  to  mouth,  idle  kind  of 
a  life;  yet  I  am  told  that  if  they  were  content  to  part 
with  their  ownership  to  capitalists  who  would  agrei^  to 
ex[)en(l  money  foi'  develo[)ment,  and  reserve  a  share  of 
profit  for  th(^  pre-em])tor,  it  is  believe<I  this  system 
would  b(^  bett<'r  foi'  the  present  owners  and  much  to 
the  advantage  of  the  locality.  Fi'om  the  bay,  Juneau 
has  ilie  appearance  of  some  systematic  I'egularity  of 
consti'uction,  l)ut  when  you  land  it  lias  ([uite  the  con- 
ti'ary  ;  in  fact,  to  quote  tlie  language  of  my  companion, 
it  "  looked  as  though  it  had  been  1)uilt  late  on  a  Satur- 
day night  and  never  finished."  It  is  an  accidental 
town ;  unlike  Taconia,  Seattle,  Victoria,  and  other 
thriving  cities  of  Puget  Sound,  whicli  have  })een 
located  and  laid  out  after  careful  consideration  of  the 
whole  subject,  Juneau,  like  Helena  in  ]\Iontana, 
"growed  u[),"  as  Topsy  did.  It  is  really  a  mining 
camp,  founded  by  Joseph  Juneau  and  Richard  Ilari'is 
just  ten  years  ago  this  autumn,  and  yet  it  is  to-day 
the  most  iin[)ortant  commercial  [)oint  u])on  the  entire 
coast.  This  is  owing  to  the  existence  of  the  gold  ])lacer 
mines  of  the  Silver  l^ow  Basin  ii  ■    '.ediatel^  l)ack  of  the 


■ 


X 


NAT  I VI'.  IX  in  AX  DAXCES. 


167 


' 


shore, m{iiiy(»ftlu'iiili;iviini;l»wnw<)rl<(Ml  ()ut,1)utl('aving 
Lcliiiul  tlu'in  the  best  evidences  of  tlie  precious  minerul 
jiwaitiii^'  the  advent  of  capital.      A  serious  eiu])arrass- 
ment,  however,  exists  as  to  the  real  ownersliip  of  the 
dilVerentproperties,an(lthesetitles,  I  presume,  will  have 
to  l)e  adjusted  l)efore  the  risk  is  assumed  of  advancing 
the  lani-e  sums  necessary  for  intelligent  e\[>loration  and 
exj)ei'nnent.     The  streets  of  tlie  town   seem  to  foll<»w 
the  (ndches  or  ravines,  and  thti  archit<'cture  is  exceed- 
ingly primitive.     Then;  are  three  or  four  interesting 
shops  at  which  may  be  i»urchased  every  known  Es(pii- 
niaux  curio,  and   two  or  three  wliere  may  be  seen  an 
excellent  collection   of  sable,  marten,  lynx,  silver-fox, 
and  other  furs.     The  signs  indicates  that  the  traders 
are   not   wed«b'd   to   s])ecialties,  but  keep  a  stock  of 
varieties  always  on.  hand.    One  of  them,  of  which  I  took 
a   note,  read   as   fodows :    "  Whipsaws,  potatoes,  new 
onions,  carrots,  and  wall-tents." 

I  spent  a  considerable  portion  of  my  time  in  the 
store  of  Messi's.  Kohler  ct  James,  who,  T  believe,  are 
the  snccessoi's  of  the  Northwest  Trading  Company. 
Here  T  had  Jin  op[)ortunity  of  witnessing  the  system 
of  l)arter  and  trade  carried  on  between  the  Indian 
hunter  and  the  white  trader.  Upon  arriving  in  town 
with  the  skins  the  red  man  visits  every  shop  and 
trader  before  he  parts  with  his  supply,  and  he  who  is 
finally  the  highest  bidder  gets  it ;  when  the  bargain  is 
consummated  the  Indian  receives  in  payment  a  num- 
ber of  blue  or  red  tickets,  which  are  taken  l)y  the 
store-keeper  in  exchange  for  such  conmiodities  as  he 


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may  ref^uire  to  curry  l».'U'k  to  liis  riniuit  liomc,  per- 
haps soinewliere  near  tlic  licad-Avaters  ol*  tlie  Yukon. 
Fi'oin  tliis  store  I  carried  oil*  some  ])eautiful  fill's  at  most 
reasonable  rates,  and  lio[>ed  to  be  the  possessor  of  a 
mueli-covete(l  sal)le  rui;'  of  tlilrty  skins,  l)ut  failed  to  con- 
vince tlie  trader  tliat  mv  valuation  of  it  \\'as  a  just  one. 
In  fact,  the  c)nly  regret  I  carried  with  me  from  Alaska 

was  that  \  had  not  given  what  was 
aslanl  foi'  this  rug,  but  my  informa- 
tion then  was  to  the  effect  that  prices 
were  F'[)ecially  ])rep;u"e(l  for  tourists, 
which,  1  run  now  convinced,  is  not 
the  case,  cei'tainl  v  not  at  the  store  of 
which  I  s[)eak.  Just  as  the  ship  was 
leaving  Juneau  I  determined  to 
hurry  back  and  [)urchase  it,  but  I 
was  admonished  bv  the  Cai)tain  that 
(.i-^'time  and  tide  wait  for  no  man," 
nor  woman  either,  so  I  sim[)ly  just 
gazed  at  that  shoj)  with  a  melan- 
choly and  rueful  countenance,  and 
the  increasing  distance,  I  assure  you, 
lent  the  view  no  enchantment.  (I 
ought  to  say  here  in  a  parenthetical 
whisper  that  the  dny  I  returned  home  to  New  York  I 
was  surprised  to  iind  that  dear  coveted  robe  spread  out 
upon  the  sofa  in  my  library. )  Before  leaving  Taconia 
we  had  T)een  handed  a  printed  programme  of  a  "native 
dance,  by  tlie  renowned  dancers  of  the  Thlinkit  tribe  of 
Alaska  Indians,  under  the  management  of  I).  Martini, 


Ai.\sK  \.  n-Rios. 
{/\(h^(i//c/  I'v  Author. 


wm 


IMI 


r\ 


NATIlli  IXPfAX  IWXCrS. 


\G() 


the  B.-mnim  «>f  Alaska,  aiid  Tliecelebrated  Takou  Cliief, 
Y(tsh   Soosh,  liead  vh'wi  of  one  of   tiie   iii(»st    wai-like 
tribes  of  Alaska,  l)ut  have  succuiiibed  (sic)  to  the  iiiilii- 
ences  of  eivill/atioii.      Admission  si.     Children  50  cts. 
The    i)erforniaiK'e    will    romnience    inunediately  after 
the  arrival  of  tht  excnision  steamer  at  Jnnean,  Alaska." 
When  we  arrived,  this  Alaska  Barniim,  wearing  a  high 
st()ve-pi[)e  hat,  in  company  with  Vash  Xoosii  himself, 
not  \n  the  garb  (►f  a  warlike  Indian  chief,  bnt  in  that 
of  a   (piiet   gnardian   of   the   pnl)lic   peace,   commonly 
called  a  policeman,  met  ns  at  the  dock  and  begged  to 
inform  ns  that  the  performance   had  been  p()st[>oned 
until  two  o'clock,  and   they  did   tliis  with  an  air  of 
people  who  seemed  to  think  we  had  come  there  simply 
to   see   their   "  ixreatest   show   on   earth."     While   this 
ceremony  was  taking  place  a  savage  noise  of  human 
voices  and  locating  of  (Irnms  came  from  a  long  tent  on 
the  beach,  which,  of  course,  we  recognized  as  the  jtlace 
of  performance.       Very  few   of  the   passengers    w(M'e 
willing  to  be  Innnbugged    by  the  man  with  the  high 
hat  and  the  policeman,  yet  our  little  [)arty,  winch,  by 
friendships  created   on   the  toui",  might   now  nund)er 
eight  or  ten  persons,  resolved  to  "  take  it  in,"  as  one  of 
the  gentlemen  ex[)ressed  it.     AVe  went ;  we  were  not 
"  taken  in  "  ;  those  who  faile<]  to  go  were  the  oidy  ones 
who  were  cheated,  and  they  cheated  themselves.     It 
was    a   remarkable     performance  —  pictures(pie,     bar- 
barous, unexplainable,  and  unique.     The  theatre^  itself 
was  a  long  tent,  with  a  jdatform  cui'taine(l   off  by  the 
coimnonest   white  nmslin,    rows  of    ])iiie    benches    for 


l4 


,i 


I70 


J    IIVJ/.IX'S   TRIJ'  TO  ALASKA. 


«     (, 


i,  i 


seats,  and  a  litth^  dressiiig-rooiii  in  tlie  rear.  The 
andience  consisted  of  twenty-one  persons  wlio  ])ai(l  one 
dollar  eaeli,  while  the  performers  nnmbered  abont 
tliirty  men,  women,  and  children  in  every  imaginal)le 
garh,  fi'oni  the  nltra-a])ori^iiial  to  that  of  tlie  present 
time.  Tlie  tent  was  insufferably  wai'm  and  f^niellfid, 
the  ghii'e  of  sunliglit  througli  the  thin  canvas  intense, 
so  that  the  use  of  parasol  and  lavender  salts  was 
indispensable;  the  stray  Indian  s(piaws  and  their  off- 
s[)ring  sitting  around  the  tioors  were  i'e[)ulsi\-e  ;  never- 
tludess,  with  all  its  unattractive  suri-oun(bngs,  I  would 
not  liave  missed  it.  There  was  no  humbuix  about  the 
dramatis  j^c'rso^Ke,  the  w^ardro])e,  or  the  implements, 
and,  therefore,  I  pi'esume,  none  about  tlie  authenticity 
of  the  dances  themselx  es.  Two  or  three  of  the  men, 
clad  from  neck  to  feet  in  skin-tltting  white  kid  (much 
soiled),  were  most  graceful  specimens  of  pei'fect 
anatomy  and  agility;  one  or  two  of  the  women  were 
(piite  attractive,  but  others  were  hideously  painted, 
horribly  shaped,  and  were  either  semi-idiotic  or  under 
the  iiiHuence  of  ItoocJiinoo  (though  I  saw  no  evidence 
that  any  of  them  could  pi'ocure  li(pior  in  the  town), 
^len  there  were  with  the  torso  of  a  u'iant  id  the  lower 
lind)s  of  a  dwarf,  giving  them  a  miserably  awkward 
i»:ait.  The  women  all  resendjled  the  lowest  caste  of 
Chinese,  but  with  coarser  and  broader  faces  and.  huger 
features;  some  of  them  with  faces  painted  entirely 
black  as  a  com[)lexion  preservei',  others  colored  onl}' 
across  the  ui»[)ei'  portion  of  the  face,  indicating  widow- 
hood, and  all   looking  the  saddest  specimens  of  indif- 


J 


;4 


If 


A 


XA  TIVE  INDIAN  DANCES. 


v/i 


fereiit  wretchedness,  so  ))eiu,ulite(l  ms  not  to  reJilize  the 
aeo;ra(hition,  misery,  and  tiltli  of  tlieir  existence.     I  was 
specially  moved  to  i)ity  l)y  a  little  girl  al>ont  nine  years 
old,  evidently  a  half-1)reed,  a  truly  pretty  child,  with 
beautiful  eyes  and  tine  features,  a  little  gypsy  creature, 
who  sat  in  "a  filthy  calico  dress,  her  only  garment,  and 
ii    hrio'ht   red    handkerchief  across  her   black  matted 
hair:''th(Mndustry  of  her  little  fingers  tohl  the  story 
(,f   the   lack   of  care   of   which    this   neglected    ])it  of 
humanity  was  the  victim;  and  in  all  her  s(pialid  lone- 
liness my   mothei-     instincts  went   out  to   her,  and    I 
wished  with  all  mv  heart  that  I  could  have  savt^l   her, 
],ody   and    soul.     The   printed    "  Progrannne ''   of   the 
dances  announced  the  following: 

.<  y„,/,._\-„,,/,-An  ancient  <lance  partiripated  in  by  tl,c  Indians  nu.ve  tl-.an  tw,. 
lumdrc'il  years  at^n. 
Ya.A'oo./.y—Xxx  ancient  dance  in  honor  of  visilin- cl.ieftains  fn.ni  afar. 
Ta-lhrii.„ah-kla.kcc~X  wild  an<l    weird   dance  of  tl.e  interior  ,ril,es-very 

ancient. 
Ou-d,:hoo-sol-\   representation    of    t!,e  Shaman,    or   Indian    doctors    .lance 

when  exiiellinLj;  an  evil  spirit  from  a  patient. 

K\K.'--,M.ka-L-lanik—\  dance   makint^  friends  amon-  tlie  tril.es— never  per- 
formed since  tlie  davs  i.f  I'.aranolf. 

Salmon   ,/<,//<v-'rhis  dance  lakes  place  on  the  occasion   ..f   the  sprin-   run  of 

salmon. 
/.,<rv  ,/,///<■<■— Chaste  au<l  i-ure,  witii  its  l.eauliful  and  soul-inspirint;  music. 
Chichi^off  ioaltz—\\\  lloonyiali  Indians." 

I  was  so  thoroughly  uni^'epared  for  the  scenes  wdiich 
the  lifting  of  the  curtain  developed,  and  paid  so  little 
attention  to  the  explanations  made  by  the  Indian  po- 
liceman, who  was  master  of  the  ceremonies,  or  his 
interpreter,  that  I  am  unable  to  individualize  the  dif- 


i 


172 


/  U'du.iws  I'Kir  ro  Alaska. 


S«: 


fcreiit  (lances.  TIh-v  all  scenuMl  alike,  except iiiii;  that 
one  representing  the  incantations  of  tlie  Slianian.  As 
tlie  cotton  slieet  was  drawn  asi<h'  by  a  pair  of  dusky 
liands,  Indians  of  l)otli  sexes  were  discovered  seated 
aronnd  tlie  stage  l)eating  drnnis  and  singing  a  most 
discor(hint,  nionotonons,  an<l  dirgedike  song  ;  tlien 
fi'oni  tlie  little  annex  caiiK'  a  procession  of  dancers, 
male  and  female,  di'essed  in  bnckskin  and  featluM's, 
with  hoi'ribly  painted  faces,  each  wearing  on  the  head 
a  hollow  crown  filled  to  the  to[)  with  the  (h>\\ii  of  the 
eagle's  breast.  Tlie  dance  connnenced  by  a  \"eiy  slow 
forward  iiio\'ement  of  the  body,  the  pi-ogress  made 
])eing  n<»t  more  than  an  inch  at  each  step,  and  winle 
the  whole  anatomy  was  ke[)t  in  constant  motion  tlie 
\\\  principal  featnr<'  of  it  wasa  jei'ky, 
^^^  forward  mov<'ment  of  the  head,  a 
throw  iiig  out  and  di'aw- 
inu'  backoff  liechin, 
as  it  wei'e,  and  a  coi'- 
respondinii'  liftinu: 
of  the  shoulders; 
this,  of  course,  agi- 
tated tlie  eagle's 
down  in  the  crowns, 
and  in  afewminntes 
tin' en  tire  tent, stage, 
and  auditorium  was 
.  "    --  a    sno\\-stoi'm.      As 

the  dancei's  became 

j'-om  A  odak  hv  , 

viss  M.  n.  Bra.h.)    w^'imied     to     th(Mr 


iil,li    kl   ijlf'i;: 


I        ilVi 


'^. 

^m 


Ifii 


«■ 


x.i  /y/V:  ixn/AX  daxchs. 


t73 


work,  wliicli  was  iiiniiifestt^d  by  the  fVatlu^is  coinpU'tely 
covei'inii;  tlieir  perspiriiiii;  +*uc*es,  giving  tlicin  a  Santa 
Clans  expression  that  was  vei  y  f  nnny,  tlu'ir  legs  ])egan  to 
loosen,  and  tripped  acadenee  not  nnliketlie  old-fasliioneJ 
Virginia  break-down,  while  the  totem-sticks,  paddles,  sal- 
mon-hooks, knives,  and  implements  of  warfare  were  tlonr- 
ishe<l  aloft  in  a  most  careless  and  hazardons  fashion.  The 
])ecidiarity  of  the  exhibition  was  that  tlie  dancing  was 
pali)ably  intended  to  give  ex[)ression  to  som<>  tlionght, 
and   the   looks   of  disdain,   contem|)t,   hate,   rage,    and 
tender  love  would  have  been  a])preciate<l  even  by  Sal- 
vini.     Some  danced  barefooted,  others  wore  red  so(d<s ; 
one  or  two  women  were  robed   in  ex(iuisite  Thlinket 
embroidered  blankets,  robes  of  fur  graced  {()  the  shoul- 
dei's  of  others,  and  one  wore  an  entire  skirt  of  ermine. 
The  Shaman   dance  would   not  have  been  givi  ;i    but 
that  we  insisted  ui)on  the  progi'anune  l)eing  cari'ied  out. 
It   appeared   that   the   Doctor  was   disgruntled    about 
soujething— [)erhaps    the   ''beggarly    array    of    em[)ty 
benches''  disappointed  him,  and  no  wonder,  for  when 
he  did  finally  play  his  part,  it  was  so  exhausting  that 
he  could  hardly  arise  from  the  sitting  posture  which 
he  assumed   from  the  fii'st.      His  was  a  dance  of  the 
arms,   hands,  shoulders,    mouth,   and   eyes.      It  was  a 
sorcerer's  ai)peal,  keeping  time   to    the    thum[)ing    of 
di'ums  on  the  I'ear  seats— the  whites  of  his  eyes  were 
rolled  upwards  during  the  whole  time,  his  head  rocked 
from  side  to  side,  his  fingers  clawed   the  air,  and  his 
teeth  fastened  themselves  in  his  lips  during  the  ferv()r 
of  his  invocations.      It  was  a  weird  spectacle,  and  if  it 


wmm» 


^■^/i 


hli  i 


i  ? 


I     '  ''  t 


Ir.    U      i, 


i;if  ■  I 

IP  t;        I 


174 


yl    irOJ/AX'S   TRIP  TO  AT.ASKA. 


didn't  succeed  in  driving  tlic  worst  evil  sj)irit  tluat 
ever  lurked  around  ;i  sick-c]ijuid)er  out  of  the  window 
it's  ji  vei'v  ni'eat  \\ondei'.  AV^^  di<l  not  liesitate  to  ex- 
press  to  tlie  Alaska  Barnuni  our  conmuMidation  of  his 
exhibition,  and  all  voluntarily  recorded  on i*  o[)inions  of 
it  in  a  book  which,  at  our  suggestion,  he  procured  for 
our  signatures,  so  that  it  might  iuipress  the  tourists 
^^dio  f(>llo\ved  us,  Mr.  l*olicenian  Yash  Noosh  having 
informed  the  spectators  that  it  was  to  be  a  permanent 
institution,  and  I  hope  it  may  pi'ove  so.  It  was  my 
good  fortune  to  be  able  to  ])urchase  thti  totem-pole 
which  conspicuously  figured  in  the  evolutions,  but  1 
su[)pose  it  has  siuce  been  replaced  by  another. 


.s.-'- 


im 


CIIAPTKU   XII. 


UK  ])rev{il('iice    of  ict^    in   hucIi   Lii'ge 
(|uaiititit'S   ill    (ilacicr    P>ay  iiuide   it 
prudent  that  we  sliould  not  risk  the 
entrance  of  Takii  Inlet.     A«  Captain 
Carroll  ex[)resse(l  it,  "the  ])eople  up 
here  nuisL  have  luul  a  hard  winter." 
Besiiles  which,  this  being  the  Qifem''.^ 
first  trip  in  these  waters,  it  was  not  an 
appropriate  time  to  experiment  as  to 
whether  she  could  navigate  the  nar- 
rower channels.     In  fact,  it  was  pre- 
dicted l)el'ore  \ve  left  Tacoma  that  she  was  t(»o  big  for 
the  service,  an  opini(.n  which  she  has  since  very  success- 
fully disproved.    At  the  head  of  Taku  Inlet,  after  a  sail 
of  tifteeu  miles,  there  are  to  l)e  seen  three  very  supei'b 
<daciers,  none  of  them,  of  course,  ecpial  to  the  ^Muir 
Glacier,  yet,  as  it  sometimes  happens  that  ovnng  to 
fou's  and    ice  the  Muir  Glacier  is  inaccessible  and  may 
n(rt  be  seen  at  all,  the  tourist  ^vill  be  well  repaid  by  a 
visit  to  Taku,  though,  from  what  I  learned  of  it,  I 
again  renew  my  advice  to  remain  on  the  ship  rather 
than    wander    over    the    muddy    moraines.       Leaving 
Juneau,  we  ran  due  no    'i   ah)ng  the  Lynn  Canal  to 


1^6 


A    irOJ/J.V'S   TRIP   7V)  ALASKA. 


;"( 


il    7 


■  y 


K     4 


(Miilcat,  wliicli  istlir  iii(»l  iioi'tlu'i'ly  |><»iiit  of  llic  cxciii'- 
sioli  I'outc,  Ix'ill^'  mIjon*'  the  r»l)  "  of  l;ititil(l('.  The  scene 
aloiii;'  tlie  entire  route  is  in  keepinj^-  with  th.il  which 
lias  framed  our  joui'uey  since  wc  h'ft  N'ictoi'ia.  Passinn' 
tb(^  Auk  and  KaijU'  L;'hieiers  on  our  rinlit,  we  pause  foi- 
a  wiiih'  in  fi'ont  of  tlie  Davidson  (iK-iciei',  wliich  meets 
tlie  eye  on  tlie  left  like  a  iniLi'lity  I'ivei"  I'ushin^  thi'(»UL:'h 
the  mountain  i^'or!j;es  to  tln^  sea,  and  madly  emptyini;' 
itself  into  the  ocean  at  the  foot  of  a  dense  foi'est,  'Idiis 
body  of  ice  is  as  (>M'a(*eful  in  f(H'm  as  the  Muir  is  heroic 
in  colossal  statui'e.  It  is  nearly  three  niile^  wide  at  its 
uiouth  and  sIo))es  dowiiw  ards  fi-om  an  altitude  of  twch c 
hundre(l  feet,  openinn"  <>ut  towai'ds  the  sjtectatoi'  like  the 
spi'eadiuii'  of  a  fan.  Pyi'amid  Ilai'lxn-.  <- //  /■(>///<,  \s  nu 
ex(juisite  l)it  of  mountain  sceeery,  not  unlike  the  Hud- 
son near  West  Point,  thouu'h  few  of  the  peaks  are  less 
than  three  thousand  feet  hiu'li.  It  is  nearly  daik  when 
wv  tui'U  ai'ound,  and,  haviuii"  to  reti'aee  our  stej)s  o\ ci' 
tlie  same  course  for  several  miles,  we  unanimously 
aij^ret^  to  pay  to  Sleep  our  d(d)t  for  the  many  hours 
borrowed  from  hei'  in  the  past  tlii'tn^  niiihts.  Kee[»ing 
to  tlu'  eastern  ehannel  around  Admiralty  Island  we,  of 
course,  did  not  stoj)  at  Ivillisnoo,  mu(di  t(.  our  rei;'i'et, 
but  the  Captain  pi'omised  in  comjxMisation  to  n'ive  us  a 
surprist^  in  a  day  or  two  if  the  conditions  favoi'ed  it. 

Killisnoo  is  an  interest  in  u"  station  fi'oni  the  fact  that 
hei'e  is  a  lariz-e  manufactory  of  the  Xorthwest  Trading 
Company  for  producing  fish-oil  and  (bying  codfish,  the 
latter  said  to  ''ar  excel  the  sanu^  arti(de  caught  and  pre- 
served bv  the  Newr^Mindland  tishermen.      The  natives 


I 

I 


'i  il 


1 


o 


7i 


(  .■'/A- 


78 


./  irojr.i.v's  TRIP  TO  ai,aska. 


of  tliis  place  .'I  few  ycni's  .mi;'(>  tlircatciKMl  \y\  iiiMssjicre 
\\w.  wliitcs  ill  i-eveiiii:<^  '"•'  t'"'  ac<"i<lriit.'il  killiiii;'  of  a 
Sliaiiiaii  l)y  tlic  |)rt'iii;itin'«^  ex[)l()si()ii  of  ji  torjxMlo,  and 
would  liavi^  (lone  so  hut  for  the  timely  arrival  of  a 
revenue  cutter,  which  thi'ew  a  few  noisy  shells  into  the 
yillage  and  n.'iturally  produced  intense  ((uiet.  Our  re- 
turn tri[)  was  so  arranL;ed  as  to  pass  in  the  daytime 
many  ex([uisite  marvels  of  scenery,  whicdi  we  had  lost 
iu   the   uin'ht  coming  up,  among     hem  the   Wrangell 

I  -  ■•:| 


1  r 


hi 


Up  ^1  ^  if 

m-  -  - 


KII.I.ISNOO. 

Narrows  and  Clarence  Straits,  whose  unfathomable, 
still  waters  mirrored  tlu^  I'ocks,  which  buttressed  the 
inuumerahle  fiords  uj)on  each  side  of  us  into  all  kinds 
of  shapes,  shades,  and  angles,  presenting  a  kalei<h)sco[)ic 
land-  and  water-sca[)e  the  whole  li\'eloiig  day,  all  of 
which,  as  I  think  back,  comes  to  uie  like  the  fantasy 
of  a  delightful  dream.  In  one  deep  canycm,  where  you 
could  almost  shake  hands  with  a  friend  on  shore,  there 
soare<l  aloft  a  verita1)le  American  eai>:le,  floatimji:  from 
side  to  side  and  encii'clinsj:  us  with  the  sweep  of  his  i^-race- 
ful  motion  foi*  many  miles  imtil  we  reached  the  open 


^aUyy^ 


mmi 


F/inn/xc  'I'/fr.  ir//.i/./is. 


179 


bay,  nn<l  tlicii,  ms  tliouii'li  cniiK'iit  tliat  we  liiul  cscMiM'd 
tlic  lia/anls  <•!'  oiii-  iiairow  course,  alii^ditcd  on  the 
lii'4-lu'st  twii,^  of  tlic  roiviiinst  trw  of  a  little  islaihl  at 
our  side,  and  witli  tlaitpini;-  wind's  seemed  to  l»i<l  us 
God-speed.  It'  I  liad  been  Captain  Carroll  I  would 
have  dipiH'd  the  colors  t«»  tliat  h)yal  ]>ir(l 

OntMUorninu:  we  were  very   much  sur[)rised   l»y    the 
appearance  on   the   surface   of   the  water   of   sheets   of 
some   salmon-colore(l    substance,   for   which   It    was   not 
possible   to   account.      At    first    we   supposed    it    to   be 
sawdust   iloating   out  from  the   mcuith  of  some   river; 
tlien  aii'aln  it  mii^^ht  ])e  salmon-spawn,  yet  the  well  pro- 
poi-tioned  ei^^g  was  not  tliere.    The  sailors  told  us  it  was 
whale  foodi  but   that   was   all   they   1<new   of   it.      We 
(fathered   some  of  it  in  a  pail,  and   were  no  wiser ;  but 
we  brou^rht  some  home   in  a  botth'.      When    uncorked 
it  had  "an  ancient  and  a  lishlike   smelV  and   wlien  ex- 
amined ])y  the  microscope  it  Immv  all   the  evi(hMice()f 
beim,^  the  spawn  of  a  small  tish.      Theiv  is  a  littU'  tish 
in     these    waters    called    the   oulikon    (or   candle-fish), 
which  is  all  oil.      Its  head  being  thrust  by  the   natives 
into  a  split  stick  and  a  light  applied  to  its  tail,  it  burns 
for  a  considerable  time,  the  vertebras  I  su[»[»ose,  answer- 
ing for  a  wick.      This  is  the  IndianV  household  illumi- 
nator.     It   is  not  unlikely  that  this  is  the  fish  which 
deposits  its  spawn  on  the  surface  of  the  deep  sea  under 
the  rays  of  a  powerful  sun,  but  what   we  saw  was  cer- 
tainly not  allowed   to  hatch  out,  foi'   in    a   few   hours, 
while  exchanging  courtesies,  m  roiifr,  \vitli  the  ('tt>j  <>f 
To])ehl    northward    bound,  we    saw    large   schools   of 


it 


pift'wWiW'f  *i*v^' ' 


mm 


i.So 


./  IVOJ/.IX'S  /A'/V  /()  ALASKA. 


^^}i 


M 


i| 


::■.    \i 


\ 


wli.'ilcs  «:()iii!4-  sti'.'iiirlit  for  this  food 
w'itli  \\(»ii(l('i'fiil  instinct. 

A  iri'c.'it  <'lVoi't  was  made  to  in- 
duce ( "aptain  Carroll  t<»  i-nn  u|» 
into  IJutc  Inlet,  hul  at  tliis  lie 
dicw  tlic  line;  lie  had  never  e.\- 
jih»i'e<l  \t  exceptini:'  ill  a  small 
hoat,  and  was  iuiioiaiit  of  tiie 
sonndinii's,  althoiiLrh  he  l)elie\'e(| 
it  had,  like  all  the  otlier  lioids  on 
the  coMst,  an  abundance  of  de<'j) 
water.  The  ( 'aptain  spoke  of  it 
w  ith  niiicli  <'ntliusiasni,  desci-ihiiiL:' 
the  canyons  as  ivsenihliiiL;;  tliose 
of  the  ^^'llow'stone,  and  iiKtiintiiiL:' 
in  a  [»i(*ci[>itous  pei  peiidicular 
eiiiht  thousand  feet.  In  fact, 
eveiy  >('a!'  de\tdo])S  some  new 
featui-e  of  t  his  jj^lorious  ti'ip,  pro- 
diicinii;  a  IVnci'  t<)  I'etui'U  to  it, 
wiiicli  has  ])ossessed  me  e\(*r  sinc(^ 
I  .stepjted  asjioie  at  Tacoma,  after 
tw(d\e  of  the  most  restful  aii<l 
enjoyaltle  days  of  my  lift'. 

'^riie  woiiidei'ful  (lisco\<M'ies  of 
I'rofessoi's  Israel  ('.  Uiissell  and 
Mark  I*.  Kcri'during  the  past  sum- 
mer ill  theii*  t  \j)lorations  of  tin; 
Mount  Si.  I'jlias  i-ange,  lead  iin^  to 
hope   that  iijton  my  next  trip  our 


Js^^j;. 


^iHiiiiiiMiriiiiMifiii 


loKT  si.vrsox. 


iSl 


«l,i,,villvisilVMUnt.t  B.y,wl,..n.ll,..Ln,-m.u,aUH,Hl 

7»,.,.a„  I  ...„„..,  l.riM,-  mys,.ir  f  Ik-Itv,^  lliat  1  Imv. 
v,M,o>^^.M.,<s.,|•inM.,|uMlin,LMl.^-iv.Mnli.■|.l-|K,,•l,oUS 

■„nl„.  Muir.anav.l  Mr.  KciT  t.lls  „s  tU..  l.nr.M  ,s 
„.„„,i,,.si„  wM.l,,  ana  M.-.  l!„ss,.ll  s,,vs  tl,..  ■•  „.a- 
„,,,n,-'istl,.-lm-est,ol;uMrrin.l,.N..HlH.nll.-.,Hs,,l,Hv 

i„st.„,.,.f<,r',s,aH,la,-,.altr..atit«as.    W- l,a,l  l.-t,  1-.>H 

■r„„.,.,.s  l«.|,i..a  ns.  an.l  wviv  sriapin.,'  tlio  clj^.'s  "I  1|" 
,„.J,if„M)nn,laslsla,„l.  W,.  kn.sv  tlmt  Mw  al,l<arla  ,, 
tl„.  ,vf.,"-.M-  luanc  ol-  ,l„.l,a„aor  |,il.nM,  Ina.ans  wl,o 
|,.,|  ,„.rtVm,  tl,r  a.hasi,,.-  inllu.M„H.s  ul-  tl,..,-  km  at 
K,,,,  SiM.psoM.  was  ,r^la  alH.aa  ..f  us  an.l   w.   Mt   suiv 

,1„|  „.,.  woMia  1«- aro,,|„.a  a.mn  a „^  lUc-;  I.Mlmns, 

livi,,..-   up   to   a    uiiM-te..ntl,   .Tntury    ,-iva,zatmM,    with 

,.l,u,rl„-s,    srl la s,.s,    li,l,t,.a    sfeets    a   ,.,ty    ,->v- 

,.,,„„„.,„    ,,„,    „,„„..   -l,ut    notiau,^  of    tl„.  kM.a  •.    w-. 
.te..n-a  aircM.t  lor  FoH  SinipsoM  itsHf,  « luuv  w,- atriv.a 

i„s,  l,..|-o,v  smtsH.     (.l,,wl,ata|.ity   w.   '-'"';.'  ' " 

n,,.,,.  „  f.w  Itours  caHi,.,- ;  wl.at  a  s|aeua,a  lu.  ,1  lor  our 

,..„,„„,,,   !■„,  I,    is  tl„.   l,on,.  ol-  tl."   tot,.u..,„.  .■  aua   ■■ 
,v..n    lv|..'   ol-    lu.lian    life-    au.l    .■ust.uu,   c-,v,l./.ea    au. 
s.va'....'    Ko.1    S-unpson    is    in    Uritisl,   Col.nnlna    ana 
ll,„,t:,l„.  IWtisl,  tla,.:      As,.arlyaslS-Jl,tlu.   Unas.m 
B.V   C.unpanv,  wliirl,    was   tl,.  inn,f,.on.t,;a   successor 
,,/Uh.  oraul  or  ('Inulvs  11.  to  his  .ousin  I'nnr.  Uupert, 

„■,•„„;  |,i,„   ,.x..lusiv,.   ri-bt   of  ...xploration   ana  settle- 
ment' on    tin.     N'oHl,    A vi.'an    ,-..nti,n.nt.   estahhsbe. 

the    i».st   of    Fori    Si.npson,    giving    it    tin.    name    ot 


:^|^ 


i«. 


/  iro.i/.i.Y's  I  Kir  ro  alaska. 


ir;  < 

i.      ' 

W\ 

-    1 

pi!  :  '_■ 

S' 

1 

i  'i 

T.  W 

B  ■  ■ 

fiM 

.    f! 


M 


I  '  ' 


vt 


f|: 


iJ 


its  ])iv,si(l('ii<.  'rih'i'c  ;!!'('  two  h.'isiioiis  ,'ui<l  Ji  stockade 
lici'c,  l)iit  wlicllici-  hiiilt  tlicii  <»!•  iiioi'c  i'<;<'eiitly  <<► 
rc^sist  llic   iiiciiisioiis  ol"   Ixistilc   Indians,  I    was  iinahle 


to   .•iscci'laiii. 


I 


\  isih'd,    ii('\ ci't  liclc 


ss. 


tl 


10   coinnaiivs 


paiiy 


store,  wliicli  serins  to  he  nltoiit  tli<^  only  place  of  ti'ad(^ 
in  the  \illa^'e;  was  (|nile  c()urtcously  i-eeei\(Ml  ))y  tlu* 
L(ciitleinaii  in  cliai'^'c,  who  showed  nie  the  candle-tish 
and  othef  indigenous  ciiiiosilies,  and  tiien  I  joiiie(l  the 
coliinin  (we  ai'(*  hcLiinniiiL;"  l<>  look  awd'ully  like  (^ook's 
toui'ists    wan<h'i-iiin'    aiound    the    Al|)s),    not(!-l)ook    in 


haiK 


rh<'  location  of  I^'ort  Simpson  is  very  niiicli  like  that 
of  Sitka  and  -Iiineau;  the  same  kind  of  liail»oi' and  the 
same  ^'allnl,  weii-d  and  sheltei'im;'  mountains,  hut  the 
])opulation  is  almost  entirely  nati\-e,  consistini;'  of  fif- 
teen white  people  and  niiu'  hun<iied  an<l  lifty  Indians; 
most  of  tlie  men  were  off  lisinuL;'  and  caniniii;'  .-it  the 
caimeries  aloiiL;'  the  slioi'e,  takinij;  their  entii'<'  families 
witli  them  and  closing-  up  iheii'  houses.  Thosf*  wlio 
wei'c  still  al  home  seenicil  to  he  superioi'  to  any  we 
liad  \'et  seen,  iheir  houses  haviuL;'  neat  outsich's,  thoUi:;li 
tin;  interioi's  alVord  much  I'oom  foi'  imj>ro\-em<Mit.  Ft 
])()asts  of  a  Metho<list  ehureh,  an  exceedingly  plain 
sti'ucture  of  four  walls  with  a  cheap  lot  of  benches, 
and  a  simple  decoration  of  "(iod  is  lo\ c ''  hehind  the 
)>ulpit,  a  ii;reat  contrast  to  the  (ii-eek  cliui'ch  of  Sitka. 
I  )ui*inLi' the  past  winter  there  ha<l  heen  forty-Hve  deaths 
from  la  i^i'ipp(^',  and  man\  houses  hoi-e  the  Indian  in- 
siii'iiia  of  moiirninn'  a  piece  of  hlack  crepe,  pinke<l  at 
the  edges  and  [)lace(l  on  a  jsheet  of  white  paper.    These 


L 


UmL 


"^mok 


Ldc 


n 


)le 


L(le 
lie 


isli 


lie 


111 


i.'il, 


lie 


IS 


lie 


IHS 


IK) 


we 


It 


nil 


es. 


:] 


K' 


tl 


IS 


III- 
at 


itso. 


FORT  SlMrSOX 


\)w\ 


i.f("r< 


\V('i'(i    iiiulcn    <»ii 


JllK 


1  ill  iii.'iiiy  cjiscs  a  \\« 


;t()()(l  1  )('!■(  I'ot lie  lioiisc,  iiiscn 


183 

of   rc^cciit  (leatli, 

ll-scul|)tun'(l  m:irl>l(^  t(Mii)»st<)iui 

ImmI  (as  with  us)  with  the 


thr    1 


KHIH'S 


iiaiiu*  uiK 


1  auv(.r  tlH-<l<Mvas,',l,  whicli  is  kept  Immv  oiil) 


iliiriii"-  tli(i  iiioiitlis  ol  iiioiinr.!--- 


and  is  tlicii  <-arne(l  to 


tl 


ic    ti;rav(' 
•tl 


rV 


ri 


K*    ura\<'Va 


i-,l    is    very    ititercstiML;'  aii< 


worth    a    visi 


t  •   ])ut     the    totciii-poh's    ai 


l)V    far  the 


most    I'eiiiai 


lur 


kahle    featiiiv    ..f   the    i.lace ;    they    Jire    of 


( »'(*    s 


i/e  and   ^rotesijiie  s( 


ulptui'iiiL;,  and  coiitjiiii 


tl 


le 


;,,^Kited   aslu-sof  the   d<rnH-<l.      ^    would    not    have 

he  l)e<-;do<^-ue  to  have    fallen    down 


1 


leeii 


.'I  sin  aii,'ainst   t 


jind  worshii»[»e<l   tliciii, 
1 


f,»r  tliev  w<*i'e  unlike  any 


that  IS  ill    heaven  al)ov( 


<  > 


!•  that    is  in   the  eai 


thin 
•th  1) 


lu 


utli,  or  that  is  in 


the  waters  under  the  earth 


r 


m 


n 


le 


•hildreii  tohl  us  that  the  animals  repn 
tlie   olden  time,  hut   were  now 


III 
11 


Mited   existed 
11  lnirie<l   in  the  sea. 


ere  we  saw  a 


w 


liieh  we   too 


hiiiidaiit  specimens  of  "  miiek  a  muek 
k   I0  l)e  eutlin-'s  of  peat  for  fuel,  u 


til 


m 


formed,  to  our  -Teat  dis-ust,  that  it  \va« 


<ta[)le    food  ;   l)lacl 


the  Indians 
k( 


alM)ut  twelve  inches  s(| 


<   in   color,  and   made  up  mto  cakes 

h  thick,  it  lav  all 


^diiare  and  an  uh 


1  the  place,  dryiiiu'  in  tin-  sun,  and   overrue   1 


jirouiul  tiie  1 
the  doi^s   ant 


>V 


I   ,.jits  of  the  villa-v;    It   IS  nia( 


le  of 


sea- 


wee( 


h 


aiK 


I 


)rouii; 


lit  a  sp 


wi 


1  when  well  dried   is  converted   into  soil)).      1 

th  me,  Imt  only  to  look  at. 
the  xillaii*^  have  been, 
claimed    from  a  life  of 


'cinu'ii  home  wi 


4il 


III 


Tlie   people  who  are  s 

thin  the  last  thirty  years,  r 


harbarism   ma 


rked    l)\    atrocities  the   reel 


th 


itals  of   which 


are 


blood-ciirdlinL:'. 


When   tli(    tirst    missionary 


Ml 


William    Duncan    arrive( 


I     from    Scotland,    he    1'ouikI 


Hi 


1^' 

1 

ih 

1 

l^fif  ■  1 

;^'r 

184 


J    /rcX]/J.V.^  r/vV/^  TO  Af.ASKA. 


f 

1;        1 

i  1 

I    ' 

'I 


V    . 


tlieiii  ,'il)S()lntelv  uiideT  the  iiiHueiicc  of  the  Sli.'iniMii. 
Tlie  Slijuiiaiis  \\er«^  of  two  classes,  man-eaters  and  <lo^- 
eaters.  At  tlieir  will  life  was  sacritieed  to  remedy  the 
most  triHinii"  evils,  the  lowly  serfs  beiiiu"  |nit  to  death 
to  a\ei't  some  ima<:;ined  catastrophe  alxnit  to  hajH)eii  to 
a  chief.  \\^)men  were  draixned  by  lones  to  the  beach, 
brutally  miii'dered,  and  thus  sent  into  the  otiiei*  world 
to  bn  ready  in  waiting  as  slaves  to  receive  the  sick 
daughter  of  thti  chief  who  lay  upon  her  dying  bed; 
and  wlu^n  murdered,  their  bodies  wci-e  eaten  l)y  the 
Shamans  in  the  [)resence  of  the  assend)led  [)opulace. 
"Tliese  are  some  of  the  things  and  scenes,"  says  Mr. 
Duncan,  "  wliich  occui'  in  the  day  during  tlie  winter 
months,  while  the  nights  are  taken  up  with  amuse- 
ments, singing,  and  dancing.  Occasionally  the  medicine- 
])ai'ties  invite  [)eo))le  to  their  houses  and  play  ti'icks 
before  them  of  various  kinds.  .  .  .  'J'ln;  great  feature  of 
their  proceedings  is  to  pretend  to  nuirder  and  then 
restore  to  life.  The  cannibal,  on  such  occasions,  is  gen- 
erally suj)plied  with  two,  three,  or  four  human  bodies, 
whicli  lie  tears  to  j)ieces  before  his  audience.  Several 
persons,  either  from  bi-avado  or  for  a  charm,  ])reseiit 
tlieir  arms  for  him  to  bite.  1  have  seen  several  whom 
he  liad  thus  bitten,  an<l  I  hear  two  have  died  from  the 
<^ffects."  All  tliis,  howe\ei*,  has  now  changed,  the  peo- 
])le  seem  to  l)e  well  clad,  \vell  fed,  and  contented,  and 
the  children  gi\e  signs  of  intelligence  and  education. 
Of  course,  the  plague  s])ots  are  not  all  eradicated  yet : 
old  habits  still  cling  to  the  aged,  and  they  are  really  in 
a  deploi'able  condition.    Jieing  told  that  an  old  chieftain 


^ 


^am 


mM^^ 


/'VV\'/'  .S7.I//'.SV>.\'. 


1S5 


Mil. 

Ik- 
nth 
to 

Lcll, 

rid 


^ 


was  dyiii^'  in  (nu'  of  tin*  liuls,  we  entered  ;  not  tVoiii 
cui'iosiiy  merely,  hut  in  tlie  lh»|)e  that  we  iniglit  [)er- 
]ia[)s  render  liiii  service.  Alas,  it  ^^-as  too  late.  Il(^ 
lay  on  a  Maiiket  on  the  floor,  surrounded  hy  half  a 
(h>/en  women  of  all  am's  tret('h«'<]  u[)on  the  u"i'<»uiid 
like  as  many  seals,  and  life  was  eb])ini;'  [teacef'ully 
away.  We  s[)(d\e  to  the  women,  who  simply  glared  at 
us  with  a  daz('(l  expression,  l)Ut  made  no  reply.  At 
tlie  (h)or,  as  we  were  n'oiim'  away,  \\(*  met  an  old  s(piaw, 
prol»al)l\  tlie  cliieftaiirs  wife,  lahoriiiii'  ii[)  tlie  steej) 
hill,  stall"  in  hand,  and  a  load  of  l>lank<'ts  on  hei"  hack 
(l)lankets  are  the  eiiirency  of  her  jteople):  she  must 
have  heeii  ninety  years  of  aij,e,  and  when  she  reaehe<l 
the  house  of  iiiournini;-  it  was  with  difHeiilty 
she  sat  down,  hut  she  ke]»t  up  a  continual 
muttering  of  despairing 
tones  \vhi(di  w<Me  heart- 
rending. There  was  no 
douht  about  Ihm'  sorrow. 
Tlie  fountain  of  her  tears 
had  dried  up,  and  she 
I'eminded  me  of  Halite's 
deseriution  of    that  aL;'on\' 

1  iT>  1/ 

which  knows  no  \-ent  and 
tinds  no  relief,'' /o  mm i>i<ni- 
(/(  r<(^  s)  lit  iifro  I ni/>/i  fj-diy 


■^*C'  ^ 


t^i' 


^,i>^ 


I  ' 


:■     I 


11     .1'      ' 


i  ?i:f 


II'' 


i* 


It 


I 


If 

1 

1  ,!•' 

B  I 

i, 

1 1    1 

if-  '^ 

ipi''. 

■    ! 

(IIAI^TEH  XIII. 

II EN  we  I'et limed  to  the  ship  it  was 
ten  o'clock,  not  l)y  tlie  light  of  tlie 
moon,  but  in  another  of  those  gh)rious 
sunsets  Avhich  nearly  always  closed 
our  days.  Some  of  our  party  said  it 
was  the  most  gorgeous  sunset  they  had 
ever  seen,  l)ut,  to  tell  the  triitli,  I  was 
so  satiated  with  the  la'and  and  heauti- 
ful  that  all  my  powei's  of  comparison 
had  departed.  I  I'ememher,  though, 
that  the  entire  ocean  and  the  heavens, 
too,  were  lit  up  with  red  and  golden  shimmering 
lights,  A  few  miles  from  Fort  Simpson  is  the  settlement 
of  Metlahkatlah,  where  dwell  the  pilgrim  Indians  wlio 
fled  under  the  guidance  of  their  Moses,  William  Dun- 
can, from  the  atrocities  and  harharic  life  of  the  formei' 
place  in  1802  and  founded  a  town  which  is  a  model  of 
civilization  and  <»;ood  i>"overnment.  Their  constitution 
is  a  Avritten  one,  and  exceedingly  l)ri('f.  It  is  a  dis- 
avowal of  vices  and  an  avo^val  of  virtues,  and  reads  as 
follows  : 

"  1st.  To  give  np  their  '  Alilied  '  or  Indian  deviltry. 
2d.  To  cease  calling  in  coujurors  when  siclv.     od.  To 

i86 


1 


METLAUKATLAIL 


187 


cease  -amhlin-.     4t1i.  To  cease  -ivin-  .-uvay  vroiuMty 
for  nisplav.     511..  To  cease  paintin-  tlicir  laces,      (.tli. 
To  cease  arinkin-  int(>xi<-atin-  drink.     Ttli.  To  rest  on 
tlie    Sa]>l>ar..     Stli.    To    attend    religious    instructK^n. 
Mtl.    1\.  sen.l   their  cliildreu  to  school     l^Mh.  To  be 
clemily.     11th.  To  be  indn Prions.     12th.  To  ])e  peace- 
ful      l-'Uh.  To  be   liberal  and  honest  in  trade.     14tli. 
To"l»uild  iieat  houses.      ir,th.  To  pay  the  village  w  ." 
The  population  of  >b-tlahkatlah  may  be  two  or  three 
thousan.l-T  was  unable  to  ascertain  the  exact  iigures,— 
Hud  the  principal  industry  of  the  place  is  a  s.tlni(>u  can- 
iierv,  which  is  a  joint-stock  company,  the  sto(dv  of  which 
1^  iield    bv  the  natives  and   pays  handsouie  dividends. 
The  young  men  are  taught  useful   trades  and  appren- 
ticed' to  those  who  have  become  ].rotici(Mit.     All   the 
c.luirches,  schoobliouses,  and  dwellings  are  built  by  the 
inhabitants,  and  the  women  have  learned  to  weave  and 
to  spin      The  sanctity  <>f  the  uiarriage  vow  is  strictly 
observed,  poly-amy  is  unknown,  and  children  are  well 
c-U'ed    for    phvsicallv,    mentally,  and    nmrally.     It   is 
entirely  the  product  of  the  English  Church  Missionary 
Societv  and  their  fearless  representative,  :\rr.  William 
l),i,^.,;„.      Most   of    this   good    work    has   been   accom- 
plished  in  the  last  (piarter  of  a  century;  and  the  field 
is  still  lai'ii'e  for  similar  undertakings. 

Todes('Tibe  tlie  excpiisite  and  awe-inspiring  scenery 
of  the  next  two  davs  as  we  retraced  our  steps  south- 
ward, homeward  iMHiud,  is  beyond  the  power  of  my 
pen  or  ton<"ue.  It  must  sutfice  if  T  say  that  from  dawn 
nnlil  dark' each  dav  there  was  not  a  moment  when  the 


1 88 


A    irOM.lX'S  TRir  rO  ALASKA. 


t  ' ' 


m 


f'li.. 


I  , 


'? 


pi  ■ 

I 


1  , 


ii'  ^1 


siirrouiidintr.s  did  not  constitute  n,  cli;u'iiiiii!i;  L'H  id  scape, 
fit  for  tl)  '  easel  of  the  most  famous  artist.  At  no 
time  was  tlie  slii[)  in  a  s[)ot  tlie  view  from  w  lii<*li  did 
not  amply  i'e[)nv  tln^  trip  across  the  continent. 

X;inaino,  on  Vancouver's  Ishuid,  was  oiu'  next  lialt, 
and  lieiHi  we  remained  until  the  shi})  was  re-co.*ded  from 
tlie  celebrated  mines  at  this  place,  a  process  Avhicli  oc- 
cii})ied  an  entire  aftei'iioon,  affoi'ding  the  young  men  of 
our  ship  an  opportunity  to  be  vampiislh'd  l)y  the  "Na- 
naino  nine"  at  based)all.     These  mines  were  recently 

« 

the  scene  of  a  horrible  calamity,  I'esulting  from  tlu^ 
cai'eless  use  of  a  lain])  by  a  Chinese  minei",  in  which 
one  hundi'ed  and  eighty  lives  ^vere  lost — making  forty- 
one  widows  and  one  hundi'<Ml  and  forty  orphans, — 
since  which  time  Chinese  labor  has  been  exclude<l 
from  the  town.  'I'h(^  place  is  decidedly  Knglish,  pret- 
tily locate*  1,  \\ith  beautiful  drives,  and  is  said  to  be  the 
])est  hunting  and  fishing  resort  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 
AVe  took  a  (hiv(^  of  twelve  miles  to  a  ti'out  lake,  where, 
at  a  little  house  in  the  ^voods,  we  were  courteously 
rec<'i\('(l  by  an  Knglisji  gentleman  and  his  wife,  who 
kindly  ]oane(l  us  their  boat  and  succeedc^d  in  doing 
every  thing  for  our  entertainment  exce[>ting  to  prevail 
npon  the  fish  to  bite;  the  few  nnlu(d<y  ones  who  <1id 
were  safely  captui'ed.  Tt  is  not  an  uncommon  thing, 
our  host  t(dd  us,  to  see  a  dozen  d<'«^i'  coming  here  to 
di'ink  in  the  evening;  bear  ai'e  (piite  conuiion,  mimI  the 
whole  country  is  <>\ei'run  ^vith  gi'ouse. 

Next  morning  we  de])ai'ked  once  more  at  Victoria, 
where  we  parted   with   our   friend    Mrs.   (i.,   who   had 


1- 


dBM 


i 


M 


P? 


-i 


PI 


•♦».; 


♦' 

» 

"I 

'•  i 

( 

'» 1 

ri 

1  ' 

'H 


% 


I' 

i 

vi 


Hit 


^i 


! 


f.    > 

,.  )'   1 

:     1 

'1   . 

,  i 

■'          t 

L 

190 


/    JJ'dl/.l.V'S   77\V/'  7VJ  .//../.VA*./. 


n<»\\'  itmcImmI  lioiiic,  Idit  wMs  williiiLi',  she  s.-iid,  to  fcjH'.'it 
the  trip  ;it  ;iiiy  liioiiiciil.  W'r,  of  (•«mii-sc,  to<»k  lillicli  at 
tlu!  "  Poodle  1)<>l:',"  ami  tlicii  tli-oxc  to  \S(|uiinault,  \h\vv. 
oi'  four  miles  distant,  \\  here  arc  the  ii;()V<M'ium'iit  dock- 
yai'ds,  and  to  tlic  l>oa.tini;'  grounds.  It  was  a  lo\(dy 
di'i\'c,  coinniandiiii;' a  n'raiid  view  of  the  hay  and  the  far- 
<»ff  <  )lyni[)ic  Mountains.  It  was  election  day  in  N'ictoi'ia, 
and  this  gax  (;  tlie  gentlemen  of  our  ]»ai'ty  an  oiipoi'- 
tunit\'  of  studNim--  the  new  Australian  system,  which 
iHMjuii'es  that  each  voter,  Itefoie  de[»ositing  liis  l)alh»t, 
shall  shut  himself  u^t  in  a  confessional  ])ox,  and  tiglit 
tlit^  political  cam[)aign  out  all  l»y  himself:  and,  having 
satisfied  his  conscience,  ^^■ithout  extraneous  intei'fer- 
ence,  he  is  jtei'mittiMJ  to  di'o|>  his  ticket  in  the  1m>x, 
aftei'  having  niark<Ml  a  ))ig  X  opposite  the  names  of 
the  candidates  of  his  choice.  I  Ia\ing  <lone  this,  he  im- 
nuMJiatelv  tells  e\-er\l)od\'  how  he  h.-is  N'oted,  with  the 
same  \'olul>ility  that  he  declared  in  advance  ho\\  he  ^vas 
going  to  \<)te.  So  much  foi' the  secrecy  of  the  l>.Mlh>t. 
( )ne  colored  man  interested  us  witli  the  story  (»f  hi> 
ai'rest  for  illen'al  Notiui:"  many  years  aii'o,  Ixd'oi-c  the 
war.  It  appears  there  was  then  a  re(|uirenient  that 
all  American  citi/ens  sh(»uld  l»c  natui'alized  hefoi'e 
voting.  This  man  had  \\v{\  to  I>ritish  Columltia  fi'om 
slavery  after  the  Dred  Scott  decision  had  declai'ed 
that  a  sla\e  was  /mf  a  citi/en  of  the  Tnited  States,  and 
the  \'ictoria  court  decided  that  the  re(|uirement  did 
not  at)ply  to  liim.  The  gentlemen  of  oui'  ]>ai'ty  tliought 
tliin  ([uite  a  cause  (uJlhrr,  and  made  a  note  of  it.  The 
trip  up  Puget  Sound  was  again  full  of  interest,  though 


I 


J. 


•t 


X 


i. 


A 


If 


> 

»^ 

n 

o 

X 

a 

(A 


i 


m 


UJ2 


A  iro.ir.i.v's  TRir  ro  m.aska. 


i\ 


\a 


1  •' 


i  J 


I 


(»iily  a  iTjicritioii,  ill  ;i  mild  rorm,  of  thai  ('X(|iiisitc* 
l»l(*ii(liiiL;'  ol*  land-  and  wattT-scapc  Nsliicli  \\v  had  en- 
joyed For  tht^  past  week. 

At  l*oit  Tow  iiseiid  we  icsled  for  a  few  hoiiis  until 
(he  (•iistonidioiise  otHeials  ha<l  satisfied  themselves  that 
we  had  not  smiii;Liled  any  thini!;  from  Ui'itish  Columlda; 
and  here  I  discovered  one  or  two  of  my  fellow-j»asseii- 
ners  ratlxM'  iinseasona))Iy  clad  in  fur  ovei'(;oats,  piir- 
(•hase(I  ill  X'ietoi'ia.  TlieN  w ci'e '.'videiitK  wcarini;' them 
fi'om  a  sense  of  f/iff//  to  their  ujovei'iinient. 

We  reaehe<l  the  wliaif  at  Tneoma  on  the  morniiii:;  of 
Satin-day,  .lane  14tli,  li.cvin^"  made  thi*  roiin<l  trip  in  just 
twehc  (lavs,  and  I  do  not  hesitate  to  sav  tliat  there 
were  no  )>assenuei's  who  would  not  Lj,ia(lly  lia\  «•  turne(| 
round  and  faced  ai^'ain  to  the  northward,  if  tlieii' 
several  en^'a^'emeiits  \\(»ul(l  lia\('  permitted.  As  for 
myself,  I  was  l)oiin<l  for  the  ^'osemite,  and  so  little  ha<l 
my  Alaska  ti'ip  fatiiziied  me  that  I  remained  in  'I'acoina 
for  a  few  li(»urs  onl\ ,  and  tluMi  started  foi' San  Francisco. 


These  pan'cs  [  liave  w  ritten  at  Saratoi^a  S[>i'in}j;s,  in  the 
midst  of  the  i^'avest  season  \\itliin  m\  memor\'.  I  am 
surrounded  }>\  man\' dear  friends  and  l»\'  acMiuaintances 

•  «  4  I 

wliom  it  is  a  j>ri\ile«i-e  to  know.  They  have  given  me 
a  most  attentive  and  interested  hearinu"  ^vlleneveI'  I 
Lave  taken  occasion  to  speak  of  my  tri[)  to  Alaska,  and 
it  is  a  satisfaction  to  feel  that  the\-  realh  w  ant  to  see  my 
im[>ressionsand  ray  pliotogra^jlis  publislied  between  tw^o 
covers,    ^^]lat   I  haxc  seen,  \(>u  and  tlie\  inav  see.   Tliive 


" 


4 


i:/-:.\']'Of. 


193 


.:. 


I) 


,„„„1,,,1   .,,,,1   lifiv  .Inllars  rui.unt    Im-  umuv  pr<.l.tMl»ly 
siHMit  |'..rasiimiMM-  vm-ntioii,  aiM  tliis  is  iik.iv  than   it 
ts  I'loiil  New  ^^.l•kt..tlu'i<H•})tM•gsall.l  l.a<"l< 
F  it!  lianllv  tlic  i>ri«'< 


Tl 


cos 


i  a  Kivncli  cnstMiiu',  a  niii;',  <»r 
hiai'c^lct,  uiid  yet  the  iiiciiKMy  of  such  a  tiii*  will  nut 
live  tlieiii  all.     The   pleasure  is  iiiUi 
the  fact  that  those;  w 


apt  to  he  ladies  aiH 
sons   whose  i^<)<>( 


h  eiihaiieed  too  l>y 
ho  aie  yoiii'  iVllow-i)asseMi,^ers  aiv 

...  I  oviitleiiieii,  hy  v.'Ii'h'Ii   f   """••i"    P*'"- 
I  ln-eediiiL;' naturally  tends  to  a   regard 


leiil 


(',„•  the  coiiiiort  of  tlieii'  o.nipanions  ;  and  ainon^i,^  tl 
Nou  will  tindinenand  wcMiieii,  youn-- and  old,  ofhrioht 


iiitellii;'enee,  who,  devotiiiL-' 


their  time  to  travel,  aiv  ful 


of   Fact  aiK 
artists  oF  renown 


1  Miiecdot* — scientists,  savants,  authors,  and 


hi. 


I 


( ) 


\  Entrc    lions, 
lie  Friendship,  e<»ni 


Fr,,iii  all  parts  oF  the  woi 
have  heard   oF  and   seen   more   than 


meiieiie''  on  an  Alaskan  trip,  which 


las  ripene( 


1  into  mutual  pledges  "  foi 


(>■( )( »( 


1  or  For  had. 


iniu 


lid  especially  of  one  wealthy  and 
h-travelled    Benedict,  who  was  accustomed  to  coii- 


for  l)etter,  For  worse,    a 


irratii 


late  1 


limself  tliat 

Mav  lliiivu,  liy  (ili-,t'rv;Uiiii 


1,   1  111  ;l 


lillU 


A  sin 


rk-  lifi-  's  nci  liurllien 


l)ut    who   fell    a    vi( 


tim   in    Alaskan    waters   to  femah? 


cliarnis,  in 


furs  and  ulster,  resultiiii:-  in 


A    L'tlll 

(imtinnc 


trad  "f  eteinal 


a  ..fi 


s-  imiUiai  ]i>in( 


Ut  iif  llitir  'uin 


and,  ha])pily,  there  are  no  reorets. J 
If  vou  take  this  trip  as  T  Inivt 


tak 


en  It,  vou   wi 


11 


return  home   w 


ith   a   theme   which   will    force  you   to 


»->- 


^  ■. 


194 


A    Jf7).lA/.\".S-   77x7/'  7V)  ./AJ.VA'J. 


'1  ;t  a 

m 


fii' 


1^1 


ill 

1  li 


li:,! 


IX! 


if  i,^ 


Hiiciu'V  and  ('l(M|ii('ii('('  ill  s])it('  of  voiii'scll',  am!  willi 
a  Idii^iiig  to  I'ctuni  I'oi'  f'lii'tlier  (explorations  in  lliis 
wonderland,  wliicli  will  Ix*  tlic  liojtc,  of  your  life.  Voii 
will  nicntally  })liotoiz;i'ai)li  pictures  wliieli  will  presej've 
tlieir  lights  and  shadows  loiiijj  after  those  oi  tlie  Louvre 
and  the  Vatieau  liave  faded  into  an  indistinguisliable 
mass:  tlie  niounlain-walled  channels  of  British  (■olum- 
])ia,  tlie  ocean  canyons  of  the  Sitkaii  Archipelago,  the 
deep  ti'anslucent  watt'rs  of  t\w,  inland  tioi'ds,  the  snow- 
peaks  of  the  })eautiful  Falrweather  range,  and  the 
gigantic  and  a|>[)aHi]ig  Muir  (ilacier,  are  scenes  s()  iiii- 
[)a!'alleled  that  they  can  ne\er  he  foigotten  ;  and  the 
life  of  the  Ksciuimaiix  of  vesterda\  and  to-dav,  his  vicen 
and  his  virtu(\s.  his  ignorance  aid  his  inttdligence,  his 
yearning  and  his  gi'atitude,  ^\'ill  gi\-e  you  occasion  to 
thank  (rod  that  lie  has  spared  y<ui  to  sec.  with  your 
own  eyes  how  education  and  cixili/ation  are  enlarging 
theii'  iloinaiiis. 

This  is  \'our  l)irthda\',  and  this,  iiin'  dear  (diild,  is  niv 
i'enieiiil)rance  of  it. 

All'ectionately  your  mother, 

Ski'iima    M.   Coli.is. 

1055  I'll-  I II  AvKM  r.  Nkw  \()KK, 
Scptcnilh'i  2^^.  1890. 


l^ 


\ 


rf  *; 


IJ 


¥  V 


1 


1 


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